Random stuff you made.

[Stuck]

Digging the retro picnic table cloth design.

 

[ExWrench]

Got a random idea yesterday & spliced 2 Yeti stickers into a label for my pneumatic potato gun

Sometimes making stupid shit out of free stuff is entertaining, and this made me laugh


EDIT: for context, that ↑ is this ↓

 

[billybob_81067]

Another side project while cutting up rod... Made this rack out of some twisted up old channel iron and scrap rods I had to hold the my cut rods, otherwise it was gonna be a clusterfawk keeping shit organized.

I "leveled" the twisted channel iron as an average between one end and the other, and then welded the angle iron sawhorse "feet" on actually level. So it's twisted, but at least it doesn't rock side to side in use.

 

[dnsfailure]

damn what are you doing with all that cut up rod?

 

[bgaidan]

Got a random idea yesterday & spliced 2 Yeti stickers into a label for my pneumatic potato gun

Sometimes making stupid shit out of free stuff is entertaining, and this made me laugh


EDIT: for context, that ↑ is this ↓

What's the valve from?

Another side project while cutting up rod... Made this rack out of some twisted up old channel iron and scrap rods I had to hold the my cut rods, otherwise it was gonna be a clusterfawk keeping shit organized.

I "leveled" the twisted channel iron as an average between one end and the other, and then welded the angle iron sawhorse "feet" on actually level. So it's twisted, but at least it doesn't rock side to side in use.

What's the cut up rod for?

 

[subybaja]

DIY orbital weapon!

 

[billybob_81067]

What's the valve from?

Looks like a bazooka style bead blaster to me. They're pretty cheap on e-bay. I actually got one to build into an air cannon, but like it as a bead blaster more than my bead cheetah, so I've been using it as that. The barrel is screwed on with normal pipe threads, so it'd be stupid simple to swap it out for an air cannon barrel.

What's the cut up rod for?

damn what are you doing with all that cut up rod?

I build these things that go on the end of gated pipe and hold the plug in, and sell them to the local irrigation supplier. Each one takes 3 pieces of rod that get bent up and welded together, and there are 3 common sizes that I make.

This is an extremely old picture I took of some. Had to go way back to find it! The round hoop fits over the gasket bell of the pipe and locks the plug in place so that the water pressure doesn't push it out, yet is still easy to remove unlike driving a t-post in the ground behind it to hold it in. I've made thousands of these damn things over the years. It's one of those things that I'm not really sure if it's worth it, but it makes some beer money, and someone's gotta do it, so I guess it might as well be me. I've made a ton of refinements to the process over the years to make it suck slightly less.

The past several years I've been running decent sized batches to just get them done and out of the way for a while, and having the local metal supplier cut them to length on their ironworker. This time for some stupid reason I just bought the rod (customer appreciation day when it was 10 or15% off) and I didn't have my cut list with me and didn't want to fuck with getting it to them, so I just picked up the full length pieces and then cut them up myself. It sucked more than I remember it sucking, of course this time I was cutting up and deburring 1500 pieces of rod, so that may have something to do with it. Got done and immediately started shopping for iron workers. Only problem is I don't really want a huge ass iron worker taking up a ton of room in the shop. Ended up ordering this rod shear and will make a frame and hydraulic cylinder for it for a somewhat compact solution I hope.

 

[bgaidan]

Looks like a bazooka style bead blaster to me. They're pretty cheap on e-bay. I actually got one to build into an air cannon, but like it as a bead blaster more than my bead cheetah, so I've been using it as that. The barrel is screwed on with normal pipe threads, so it'd be stupid simple to swap it out for an air cannon barrel.





I build these things that go on the end of gated pipe and hold the plug in, and sell them to the local irrigation supplier. Each one takes 3 pieces of rod that get bent up and welded together, and there are 3 common sizes that I make.

This is an extremely old picture I took of some. Had to go way back to find it! The round hoop fits over the gasket bell of the pipe and locks the plug in place so that the water pressure doesn't push it out, yet is still easy to remove unlike driving a t-post in the ground behind it to hold it in. I've made thousands of these damn things over the years. It's one of those things that I'm not really sure if it's worth it, but it makes some beer money, and someone's gotta do it, so I guess it might as well be me. I've made a ton of refinements to the process over the years to make it suck slightly less.

The past several years I've been running decent sized batches to just get them done and out of the way for a while, and having the local metal supplier cut them to length on their ironworker. This time for some stupid reason I just bought the rod (customer appreciation day when it was 10 or15% off) and I didn't have my cut list with me and didn't want to fuck with getting it to them, so I just picked up the full length pieces and then cut them up myself. It sucked more than I remember it sucking, of course this time I was cutting up and deburring 1500 pieces of rod, so that may have something to do with it. Got done and immediately started shopping for iron workers. Only problem is I don't really want a huge ass iron worker taking up a ton of room in the shop. Ended up ordering this rod shear and will make a frame and hydraulic cylinder for it for a somewhat compact solution I hope.

I wonder how big of an air cylinder it would take to run that shear? Hydraulic seems slow...if you had a big air tank as a reserve and a big diameter cylinder pushing it, you could hack the shit out of some bar with that thing.


Ever tried something like this for deburring?

Seem like it'd be quick if you could rig it up on a horizontal motor or just lay a drill press on its side

 

[ExWrench]

What's the valve from?

Valve came as part of this tire bead blaster: Amazon.com

Which I learned about from this post 2” .156 wall Dom thanks to MigGunslinger

Also, there's the source of the chunk I bastardized to make the switch housing for the airsoft gun.
I love making shit out of scraps; makes any hoarding-ish actions I take seem justified

 

[Chzbrgr]

I'm glad for the extra pics. Original pic looked like some full semi machine gun automatic that I couldn't understand but damn sure wanted one.

 

[billybob_81067]

I wonder how big of an air cylinder it would take to run that shear? Hydraulic seems slow...if you had a big air tank as a reserve and a big diameter cylinder pushing it, you could hack the shit out of some bar with that thing.


Ever tried something like this for deburring?

The shear is for a 55 ton ironworker, so air might be out of the question. The stroke length looks to be real short though so I might be able to find a 6" diameter cylinder that's got a bent rod or something and shorten it down to a ridiculously small stroke length, and run it. Might even be able to gang up rod and run 5 at a time or something in the angle slot. I'll definitely be trying stuff out when it gets here using my shop press and see what kind of actual pressures I'll be needing.

I have tried one of those deburring deals and the one I got sucked ass. If I can get the shear to work I don't think I'll even need to deburr it. Never did when I had them shear it at the metal supplier, but I did have to pay their shop fees for their time shearing of course.

 

[billybob_81067]

I love making shit out of scraps; makes any hoarding-ish actions I take seem justified

 

[Steve300xcw]

What size rod is that?

 

[billybob_81067]

What size rod is that?

1/2 and 3/8.

 

[Steve300xcw]

1/2 and 3/8.

Ive cut a pile of rebar with one of these..

#6 (3/4") BN Products Heavy-Duty Electric Rebar Cutter | Rebar Tools For Sale

Powerful rebar cutter for sale. We have the best prices and fast free shipping!

ccinetwork.com

 

[[486]]

The shear is for a 55 ton ironworker, so air might be out of the question. The stroke length looks to be real short though so I might be able to find a 6" diameter cylinder that's got a bent rod or something and shorten it down to a ridiculously small stroke length, and run it. Might even be able to gang up rod and run 5 at a time or something in the angle slot. I'll definitely be trying stuff out when it gets here using my shop press and see what kind of actual pressures I'll be needing.

remember lever ratio multiplies tonnage at the cost of stroke

 

[Dethmachinefab]

Little flywheel press would be best. I see them for $500-1k all the time.

 

[billybob_81067]

remember lever ratio multiplies tonnage at the cost of stroke

And a bit more complexity of linkages and whatnot. Like I said I'll get it in and see if it has a spec sheet on what it should cut and then try it on my 50 ton press and see exactly what kind of pressures I'll be needing for the maximum thickness stuff then go from there. If I can straight push it with a cheap large diameter cylinder that I shave down to retarded stroke length I think that might give me the most compact package. If not I'll figure something out. I'm sure 3/8 and half inch rod will be pretty low pressure to cut, but might as well get the max out of the shear I can for future bullshit.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Picked up a 20' shipping container. Part of what I wanted it for was steel storage.

Of course the walls aren't square so I had a 1/2" gap in the middle of one and 3/8" on the other. Used a framers trick I've heard of where you cut a board at the distance you have plus the gap and hammer it in. Worked perfect.

It's 8 1/4" inside (wanted a number that 1 1/2", 1 3/4" and 2" wide material wouldn't be wedged tight. Only lost 9.5" of width for whatever else I put in there.

Plan to add some sheet metal trays to a few of the levels for flat bar and shorter pieces.

One thing that sucks is the container is obviously 20' outside, so I have to cut ~8" off 20' sticks. But its better than on the ground and I'm not running a full time fab shop or anything.

 

[Sceep]

I've had this patio set in the shop for a few years. It's awesome and gets used daily but its bulky and a PITFA to move around with all 3 pieces attached together. 99% of the time its just me sitting out here so I was thinking of making a base for the table so the extra stool could live in a corner until someone needed it. Well that just takes up the same amount of space, but differently.

Found that with a couple little trims on the table, I can easily attach/remove/reconfigure as visitors require. Hella easier to move around as needed.

 

[billybob_81067]

That

Picked up a 20' shipping container. Part of what I wanted it for was steel storage.

Of course the walls aren't square so I had a 1/2" gap in the middle of one and 3/8" on the other. Used a framers trick I've heard of where you cut a board at the distance you have plus the gap and hammer it in. Worked perfect.

It's 8 1/4" inside (wanted a number that 1 1/2", 1 3/4" and 2" wide material wouldn't be wedged tight. Only lost 9.5" of width for whatever else I put in there.

Plan to add some sheet metal trays to a few of the levels for flat bar and shorter pieces.

One thing that sucks is the container is obviously 20' outside, so I have to cut ~8" off 20' sticks. But its better than on the ground and I'm not running a full time fab shop or anything.

That's awesome. Shoulda got a 40' container though so you could put those 24' sticks and have room in the back or front for more. I think one with doors on both ends and this setup would be ideal!

Who am I kidding though. I never buy new steel.

 

[billybob_81067]

I made this thing-a-ma-bob last night...

I'll post up another picture when it's all done.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

That


That's awesome. Shoulda got a 40' container though so you could put those 24' sticks and have room in the back or front for more. I think one with doors on both ends and this setup would be ideal!

Who am I kidding though. I never buy new steel.

It would have been nice to find one of those like rare 24s or 25s but it is what it is. I don't have room for a 40' or I would have. They're barely more money.

My old work had a 40-footer that they cut in half and mated it up to the Fab shop wall. It was cool because you could offload stuff outside and then slide it in off the forks and then when you're cutting metal you have open access to it also without having to get a forklift in the middle of the saw area to load the racks

 

[95stepside]

I made this thing-a-ma-bob last night...

I'll post up another picture when it's all done.

whatever it is, it needs more triangulation

 

[rims]

The shear is for a 55 ton ironworker, so air might be out of the question. The stroke length looks to be real short though so I might be able to find a 6" diameter cylinder that's got a bent rod or something and shorten it down to a ridiculously small stroke length, and run it. Might even be able to gang up rod and run 5 at a time or something in the angle slot. I'll definitely be trying stuff out when it gets here using my shop press and see what kind of actual pressures I'll be needing.

I have tried one of those deburring deals and the one I got sucked ass. If I can get the shear to work I don't think I'll even need to deburr it. Never did when I had them shear it at the metal supplier, but I did have to pay their shop fees for their time shearing of course.

hydraulics can be fast just add an accumulator.

 

[billybob_81067]

hydraulics can be fast just add an accumulator.

I don't think it'll be very slow anyways. Gonna go with a 2 stage log splitter pump and a 230V 5 horse compressor motor. I've done it on a hydraulic press I built before.

With a 5" diameter cylinder and 1" stroke it'll need 19.625 cubic inches to push it down and 16.485 cubic inches to bring it back up due to the rod volume (2" diameter rod. Need to measure again to make sure). Surplus center has a 14.1gpm two stage pump with an adjustable hi/low setting. I'll crank that bitch as high as I can while still letting the motor not stall out in the high flow setting before kicking into the low setting. I did get the shear in the mail last week and tested it out some. I was able to shear 2"x2"x3/8" thick angle at 25 tons... (that one made a loud bang when it sheared, so I'll probably stick to 1/4" thick as my max.) Shearing 3/4" square rod was 15 tons. 6" wide 1/4" plate was 15 tons, it's supposed to do 6" wide 5/16 thick, but I didn't have any on hand. I don't remember how much was needed for the 1/2" rod, but it might not even have to kick the pump out of the high flow side to do that or the 3/8" rod. Those are the ones that I want max speed for anyways because there are so many to do. The 5" diameter cylinder should be good for 29.4 tons of pressure at 3000psi.

If my calculations are correct, at 0.903 cu. in. / rev. LO press. stage and 3450rpm at the motor, I should be able to get 86 up/down strokes per minute if the pump doesn't have to kick into the high pressure side. That's faster than I can logistically feed the rod into it anyhow. Even if it does kick into the high pressure side of the pump it'll be only for a split second shearing that small diameter rod. I'm really considering mounting my motor, pump, and reservoir to a hand truck/dolly with a place to coil the cord and some hydraulic hoses with quick couplers on the ends. That way I can use it as a portable hydraulic power pack for future projects as well.

Then the shear frame will have the cylinder and a log splitter valve. Have the auto kick out on the log splitter valve on the retract of the cylinder so it'll go all the way up and kick out on its own. Yes I am planning on cutting the cylinder I got down to be a 1" stroke so I'm not wasting any volume on the retract.

 

[billybob_81067]

whatever it is, it needs more triangulation

That's what the angle iron brace is for! Because I found out after I built it that it needed more triangulation!

 

[4RunnerGuy]

I've had this patio set in the shop for a few years. It's awesome and gets used daily but its bulky and a PITFA to move around with all 3 pieces attached together. 99% of the time its just me sitting out here so I was thinking of making a base for the table so the extra stool could live in a corner until someone needed it. Well that just takes up the same amount of space, but differently.

Found that with a couple little trims on the table, I can easily attach/remove/reconfigure as visitors require. Hella easier to move around as needed.

You should Patent it

 

[00nissanguy]

Sacrificed a cheep lodge pan to make a spatula

 

[Sceep]

You should Patent it

I gotta fuckton (37?) of patents now. All of them owned by the prior employer. Nothing other than pride ever to be gained by them. There is nothing in that patio furniture modification worth $0.0002.