Not a fan of the car audio (clear red) power cable jumper but if it's all you got so be it.
The audio cable is most definitely temporary, I didn't want to waste good power cable, then end up building bus bars later, or possibly change to different relays, the ones you posted are very cool, I'll be looking into those for sure,
So today would normally be update time, but the videos pretty much cover what I did these days off, mostly reassembly & prepare to start the engine,
All in all it was pretty uneventful,
I will say it's a good feeling to crank this thing over, hit the ignition & have it fire first hit, granted, that's all it did was fire, but much better than spit & sputter, messing with the distributor, or have it trying to blow the burst panel out!
Once I cracked the throttle blades a couple thousandths it fired right up & ran, from there I could check timing, making one small adjustment to get in the 35* range, next was fuel, it was very clear it was over fueling & killing one front cylinder, but the rear fur cylinders were making plenty of heat, like they were right about where they needed to be,
We rolled it over & confirmed nothing was wrong mechanically,
After leaning the barrel valve out some & firing it up a few more times I decided to call it a day, take a step back & asses what was going on,
The next morning my "engine consultant" got home from night shift & we hit it again,
I had him watch the temp on the front cylinder that kept going out while I shut the fuel off & let the engine lean way out, as soon as I shut the fuel off that cylinder started making temperature,
About 20 years ago, the first time I messed with mechanical injection, fuel pressure at idle would be set at 5-7 psi, the fuel pressure is set with a poppet/check valve, When ordering parts & did order a 5 psi poppet, & that is what was sent, however, the last couple days before firing the engine I did a fair amount of reading & kept running accross guys saying "8-9 psi"
When you second guess yourself stuff starts going sideways, before starting I bumped idle pressure up to 8.9 psi & that resulted in a fair amount more fuel than I needed,
We set the idle poppet back to 5-6 psi & fired the engine up again, the engine was still rich, but not nearly as much, still enough to put the fire out on cylinder #5, but the temperature on the rear 4 cylinders dropped quite a bit, We figure the rear 4 cylders were likely back buring in the pipes, giving a false reading of making good temp,
Again I adjusted the barrel valve even leaner, & restarted, still rich, but I'm getting closer, at this point I can pick the idle up & start picking the dead cylinder, & I'm starting to get color on the front two pipes,
With no coolant it does not take long to run out of time for tuning, so this is where I left off on that part of the project,
The next step is gathering up a couple good low pressure gauges, (I learned this weekend a few of mine are not very trustworthy) double check all of my poppet settings, & if needed close down the barrel valve even more, but at least I know I'm headed the right direction now,
Yesterday I finished off the weekend by building a small bracket on the dash for the fuel shutoff cable,
Also having used all my red knobs for kill switches, I took an 8 ball from a pint size pool table & whittled it down to a button, (anyone remember when 8 ball shift knobs were cool?)
Hardest part of that project was hanging onto the ball in the lathe,
I'm not sure this knob will stay, but it was fun to cut on, & if I end up with something better I'll toss this one in the "Knobs & handles" box on the shelf,
Hopefully next weekend I'll get the idle tune sorted, Then start on the last few tabs & brackets that need done before the big disassembly,
