Brad
Jackass
Didn’t know you were working when you were in Hawaii😄
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Project Glacier Cold Beer - a '67 Jeepster Commando
- Thread starter Opiebennett
- Start date
-
- Tags
- jeep
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Yeah, trip worked out pretty good. Family was able to hang out by the pool and have relaxing slow days and we got some good work done.
Yes, but some day, the dream is to toss a tent in the back and take him camping, so ill consider that time spent to be an investment in anotherdream.
Well, you sure as shit appear to know what you're doing.
Thank you. It's a few years of practice on a few other projects, and then a little luck that it appears that way.I Need to step back and assess and make a plan and priory for the remainder of the items - the dreaded "list". The last few times I've been down there I've scatter brained around a few minutes on a bunch of things, and that's not really effective.
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Fuel tank... this guy was in the commando when I got it. 1/8" magnetic steel.
Pulled it out of the scrap pile. Approx 20 gallons. Already fits the back of the jeep. I'm thinking Ok, I can save some time if I get a weld in ring for a modern in-tank pump that will supply the low pressure side of the fuel system.
Pulled the old sender out and took a peak...
Lots of rust that is sure to clog injectors...
See tip of screwdriver with loose material...
Hmmm.
Google says vinegar and random nuts and bolts tossed in, and shake it around a bit. I'm not convinced, and the crude baffle in there probably prevents really good cleaning anyhow.
Sent an email off to Aero Tanks to see about their 23 gallon jeepster tank.
Pulled it out of the scrap pile. Approx 20 gallons. Already fits the back of the jeep. I'm thinking Ok, I can save some time if I get a weld in ring for a modern in-tank pump that will supply the low pressure side of the fuel system.
Pulled the old sender out and took a peak...
Lots of rust that is sure to clog injectors...
See tip of screwdriver with loose material...
Hmmm.
Google says vinegar and random nuts and bolts tossed in, and shake it around a bit. I'm not convinced, and the crude baffle in there probably prevents really good cleaning anyhow.
Sent an email off to Aero Tanks to see about their 23 gallon jeepster tank.
Simple'72CJ
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2021
- Member Number
- 4370
- Messages
- 248
What about a chemical dip to clean up the tank? I know Metalworks down in Oregon does it, but maybe there's someone a little more local? Worth a shot if its not outrageously priced to have done.
Tech Tim
Your AD Here....
A few gallons of Evapo-rust, let it sit for a couple days, rotate and repeat until you got it all clean?
Same with Muriatic acid, but only let it sit a few hours per side?
Same with Muriatic acid, but only let it sit a few hours per side?
Simple'72CJ
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2021
- Member Number
- 4370
- Messages
- 248
I've watched quite a few videos on that stuff but never used it personally. Have you used it first hand? Looks like some killer stuff.
Tech Tim
Your AD Here....
The Evapo-Rust?
Yes, always have a gallon or two on hand. One in a bucket to soak rusty stuff in and another that we use in our sonic cleaner. You've got to let the stuff soak for a few days, then I'll take a brush to it, clean it off and then soak for another couple days. Just don't put greasy stuff in it, that will make it stop working really fast.
I get it at the local auto parts place, it's around $25.00 per gallon.
Yes, always have a gallon or two on hand. One in a bucket to soak rusty stuff in and another that we use in our sonic cleaner. You've got to let the stuff soak for a few days, then I'll take a brush to it, clean it off and then soak for another couple days. Just don't put greasy stuff in it, that will make it stop working really fast.
I get it at the local auto parts place, it's around $25.00 per gallon.
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Thanks guys.
Aero Tanks for back to me super quick, custom tank, 23 gallons, 3/16 built in skid plate, aluminized brand new steel, just the fuel filler and vent penetrations. ~$750 with tax and shipping.
I'll install the 6" ring when it gets here. Bonus - this tank is 12" deep, so ill be able to use an off-the-shelf 2001ish LS fuel pump unmodified.
Ordered Monday, and they expected to ship this week, so, that's cool.
Aero Tanks for back to me super quick, custom tank, 23 gallons, 3/16 built in skid plate, aluminized brand new steel, just the fuel filler and vent penetrations. ~$750 with tax and shipping.
I'll install the 6" ring when it gets here. Bonus - this tank is 12" deep, so ill be able to use an off-the-shelf 2001ish LS fuel pump unmodified.
Ordered Monday, and they expected to ship this week, so, that's cool.
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Kinda all over the place, but waiting on the new gas tank to arrive then that sets the space constraint for the sway bar in the back.
While waiting, I went back to the front suspension/ steering. Moving the steering box up and forward changed the drag link and tie rod relationship, and the drag link and trackbar angles.
I set the front axle at ride height (6" up travel on the shocks) and full bump a few times to figure out what was next. At ride height the track bar and drag link were ~1 degree different.
I decided the best course of action was to raise the drag link at the knuckle, but to do that would be cutting apart my double shear bracket, so how would I build that back that looked intentional?
Started with machining a 3/16" thick spacer
Then hack some stuff apart
The 3/16 spacer lifts the drag link at the knuckle one plate thickness in the double shear bracket from the previous iteration, and helps with the drag link to tie rod contact.
I never really liked the open ended nature of the drag link mount area on the knuckle - both as a weaker structure and as an area to get packed with dirt, so this will allow me to box that in.
With the 3/16 spacer, the drag link and trackbar angles are within 0.2 degrees at ride height, also the accuracy of the tool I'm using to measure them, so ill call that a win all the way around.
While waiting, I went back to the front suspension/ steering. Moving the steering box up and forward changed the drag link and tie rod relationship, and the drag link and trackbar angles.
I set the front axle at ride height (6" up travel on the shocks) and full bump a few times to figure out what was next. At ride height the track bar and drag link were ~1 degree different.
I decided the best course of action was to raise the drag link at the knuckle, but to do that would be cutting apart my double shear bracket, so how would I build that back that looked intentional?
Started with machining a 3/16" thick spacer
Then hack some stuff apart
The 3/16 spacer lifts the drag link at the knuckle one plate thickness in the double shear bracket from the previous iteration, and helps with the drag link to tie rod contact.
I never really liked the open ended nature of the drag link mount area on the knuckle - both as a weaker structure and as an area to get packed with dirt, so this will allow me to box that in.
With the 3/16 spacer, the drag link and trackbar angles are within 0.2 degrees at ride height, also the accuracy of the tool I'm using to measure them, so ill call that a win all the way around.
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Tank arrived fast. Looks like $485 fir the tank, $85 for the skid plate, and about $200 for shipping.
Instructions indicated to mount to the bottom of the frame, using the angle iron welded to the sides and supplied 3/8 bolts. Hard mounted.
Seems they think you ought to punch a hot through the frame and the tank at the same time, then toss a bolt in there. Played with the tank forward and aft, couldn't get the tank angle iron to mate with the frame nicely on all 4 pads. Could be my 1967 frame
I need the tank to be about 1" lower than metal on metal to make room for the sway bar and it seems wrong to hard mount it, with frame flex and all. I decided to use some of the take off body mounts to mount it.
Got it as good as I could and popped a 3/16 hole through the angle and the frame.
Instructions indicated to mount to the bottom of the frame, using the angle iron welded to the sides and supplied 3/8 bolts. Hard mounted.
Seems they think you ought to punch a hot through the frame and the tank at the same time, then toss a bolt in there. Played with the tank forward and aft, couldn't get the tank angle iron to mate with the frame nicely on all 4 pads. Could be my 1967 frame
I need the tank to be about 1" lower than metal on metal to make room for the sway bar and it seems wrong to hard mount it, with frame flex and all. I decided to use some of the take off body mounts to mount it.
Got it as good as I could and popped a 3/16 hole through the angle and the frame.
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Then removed the tank and enlarged the hole on the tank mounts to 1.125, to fit the body mount bushings.
They'll need two pucks between the frame and angle iron to drop the tank 1", which is longer than the factory sleeve, so I ordered a piece of 5/8×.065 tube, so I can make sleeves such that I can tighten the bolt all the way into a lock nut, but still have the rubber mounts flex when needed.
Next part of this project is to cut a 6.340 hole with minimal debris getting into the tank... hmm..
They'll need two pucks between the frame and angle iron to drop the tank 1", which is longer than the factory sleeve, so I ordered a piece of 5/8×.065 tube, so I can make sleeves such that I can tighten the bolt all the way into a lock nut, but still have the rubber mounts flex when needed.
Next part of this project is to cut a 6.340 hole with minimal debris getting into the tank... hmm..
Man those tank welds are horrendous.
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Yeah... I was going to say they left a little to be desired, but you might be closer.
I've been happier with the appearance of some other products in the past, but it's under the rig and painted black. Hopefully it's never on full display
Somebody let the new kid play with the squirt gun. Yup, compared to the rest of your stuff, I'm glad it'll be hidden too.Yeah... I was going to say they left a little to be desired, but you might be closer.
I've been happier with the appearance of some other products in the past, but it's under the rig and painted black. Hopefully it's never on full display
Brad
Jackass
Too bad they didn’t have a weld it yourself kit😄
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
It would have taken me hours for what obviously took them minutes.
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Next part of this project is to cut a 6.340 hole with minimal debris getting into the tank... hmm..
Turns out I don't have tools to do that. Instead popped two holes in it with the step bit and went after it with my jigsaw
Followed by the shopvac.
Aero Tank's lack of care in minimizing heat distortion caused some head scratching.
got it the best I could, tacked a bunch, then made a full perimeter weld. then went all seal welder on it, and laid an outboard toe pass, and where needed an upper/inboard toe pass for anything that looked like it would hold die.
I think I'll order a PT kit, fuel and all.
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
I want this thread to be easy for me to find later on -
www.pirate4x4.com
the spring tech thread
I think we need to relook at go fast spring tech. I hesitate to call it go fast cause it is right for go slow too. In my opinion Frequency is not relative to long travel off road use. It works fine for 4” travel road cars but not for us so I won’t go into it or defend my experience, if you...
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Facebook marketplace and car adhd strikes again
Scottie
Well-known member
Awesome build my friend. Cool to see other projects with the gen v drivetrains.