Plan B F250

[Snowracer]

finally got around to fixing my steering. when i busted it at Insanity Fab i bought a new joint off another racer and fixed it there so i could get it back on the trailer then just never did anything after that. so pretty sure the drivers tire was pointing off as never aligned it or anything and been wheeling and racing it like that

went with EMF ball sockets and 7/8 joints so should not have any more failures and if i do it will be the ram or knuckle now :rolleyes:

 

[Snowracer]

local club put on a race so when and did that and was way outclassed as quite a few U4 cars showed up. with the whole covid thing going on there this was really the only race of this type this year so quite a few rigs showed up and was a little bit of everything from race buggys to megas to trail rigs and it was a blast. was set up for for the U4 style of racing so was qualifying then on to a 1 hour semi and then a 30 min main race with 10sec starts between rigs. i run into some issues so didnt do that great but did hop in and ride with buddy and we got 2nd place

hellcat buggy getting it

buddy and i taking the checker flag and second place for the weekend

 

[Snowracer]

after 5 or 6 qualifying runs the truck was running rich and back firing and could hear an exhaust leak. crawled under the truck and found another big ass crack in my exhaust but on the drivers side this time. got a ride into town and picked up some of that fiberglass muffler fix stuff and that lasted all about 5 mins, so did it again but also added a pop can and some hose clamps to it and it lasted a little longer. was in my 1 hour semi race and was doing go and holding my own till the 27 min mark and my upper rad hose blew off. truck was getting hot but nothing crazy so no sure if it was just a lose clamp or what. did a combustion gas test when i got home and it passes so probably just a bad hose or clamp that caused it.

the ghetto fix that sort of held up but now the pipe is cracked all the way around and broke off. so need to figure something out as this is second time ive had issues and as you can see the drive shaft and exhaust share the same space when i land a jump

 

[Powerranger33]

Is there any expansion or flex joint in the y-pipe? Maybe it needs a little room to flex.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Is there any expansion or flex joint in the y-pipe? Maybe it needs a little room to flex.

Flex out of the way of the driveshaft? ​​​​​​

Chop the flange off, go v band and you'll be able to move the bend up higher.

 

[rattle_snake]

2nd the v-band idea.

Looks like a fun time at the race.

 

[Snowracer]

truck got patched back together for first snow run of the season. Fixed the exhaust again and built a new upper rad hose and few other small things. We headed out for a night run and the ground was crap so made for some hard going as hit frozen ground quick and had zero tractions

had a creek crossing that was in a gully so make for a challenge as steep hills on both sides and waist deep water and ice

we only made it about half way through the trail and turned back as was having some bad luck. on the way back i was the first to hit the gully and things got a little spicy and wound sideways on the hill and was up on 2 wheels for a second and then came to a stop. was pretty close to putting it over into the water, was full trail tampon and blocking everyone so after trying to winch the Welfare past me and that not working it told him to just put his bumper into my door to keep me from going over and use it as a pivot point

door still opens and closes but take a little force :rolleyes:

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Cracks me up that you put all the work into this thing, but don't run a windshield ​​​​​​

Looks like fun, I'm always pumped for sno season.

 

[Snowracer]

Cracks me up that you put all the work into this thing, but don't run a windshield ​​​​​​

Looks like fun, I'm always pumped for sno season.

didnt really have much of a choice about the windshield after rolling it and messing the cab up. spent some time trying to get the cab back enough to get glass back in it but the whole cab is pushed back on the pass side. it wasnt to bad when we went out as was just below freezing all night but did start to snow on the way back and the ice snow was pretty hard on the face as didnt bring a mask or goggles

 

[YotaAtieToo]

didnt really have much of a choice about the windshield after rolling it and messing the cab up. spent some time trying to get the cab back enough to get glass back in it but the whole cab is pushed back on the pass side. it wasnt to bad when we went out as was just below freezing all night but did start to snow on the way back and the ice snow was pretty hard on the face as didnt bring a mask or goggles

You need a more redneck windshield guy. I've seen some hammered trucks get windshields put in 1" gaps filled with the glue and all.

Kid we went to school with used to save any toyota windshield that he took out that wasn't completely destroyed. He'd then use those for his wheeler buddies for cheap, sometimes he'd even cut them down or whatever. He's also done custom stuff for buggys and rzr's.

It's not the cold or snow that sucks, down here it's when the weather shifts and it rains or sleets. 0* doesn't have shit on 33* and wet

 

[Toreadorranger]

didnt really have much of a choice about the windshield after rolling it and messing the cab up. spent some time trying to get the cab back enough to get glass back in it but the whole cab is pushed back on the pass side. it wasnt to bad when we went out as was just below freezing all night but did start to snow on the way back and the ice snow was pretty hard on the face as didnt bring a mask or goggles

If you had to back before the cab got messed up, would you still have done the exo? or done an in cab cage?

 

[Snowracer]

You need a more redneck windshield guy. I've seen some hammered trucks get windshields put in 1" gaps filled with the glue and all.

Kid we went to school with used to save any toyota windshield that he took out that wasn't completely destroyed. He'd then use those for his wheeler buddies for cheap, sometimes he'd even cut them down or whatever. He's also done custom stuff for buggys and rzr's.

It's not the cold or snow that sucks, down here it's when the weather shifts and it rains or sleets. 0* doesn't have shit on 33* and wet

im my own glass guy got it pretty close to getting a windshield back in but it pulled the cab forward and the door opening got all messed up then busted the glass test fitting so got mad and gave up with the exo there is no way to do a windshield now, have thought about doing lexan off the exo tubes to try and cut down on the wind ect.

had to do the math on your damn yank tempts there. it was pretty much 31-33* other night and only heat i got is seat heaters

 

[Snowracer]

If you had to back before the cab got messed up, would you still have done the exo? or done an in cab cage?

no as im not a fan of exos and was still going to do an incab cage even after messing the cab up but didnt want to deal with building a dash. it was a rush cage job to get it done in time for Insanity Fab and for the most part i dont hate it.

 

[Snowracer]

could use some input on my brake set up as the brakes suck on this truck. did the standard disc brake swap on the back with chevy calipers and e350 rotors and i can not lock them up, i can stand on the pedal and it stops but not fast or as good as i would like. i have done this same set up on trucks before as it was always good. do have a proportioning valve right after the master for the rear and seems to make no difference how i adjust it other then making the pedal feel harder but doesnt stop any better. so flame away and tell me what ive done wrong

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I was just talking to my buddies dad who's family has owned dozens of these trucks. He was saying to drill out some fitting on the frame?

F-superduty hydroboost is supposed to be a huge upgrade as well.

 

[Snowracer]

I was just talking to my buddies dad who's family has owned dozens of these trucks. He was saying to drill out some fitting on the frame?

F-superduty hydroboost is supposed to be a huge upgrade as well.

thats the stock proportioning valve and abs valve crap that is long gone, took it out on the last 2 trucks ive done the swap on as well.

rather stay away from hydroboost as already have lines everywhere and im running the g2 gear pump so im running like 2000psi and high gpm in my steering system and not sure if the hydro boost will take that

 

[YotaAtieToo]

thats the stock proportioning valve and abs valve crap that is long gone, took it out on the last 2 trucks ive done the swap on as well.

rather stay away from hydroboost as already have lines everywhere and im running the g2 gear pump so im running like 2000psi and high gpm in my steering system and not sure if the hydro boost will take that

The rock bouncer guys seem to like hydro boost. I'm sure they're running at least 10000 psi

 

[Powerranger33]

There was a post on a Facebook page that Scott Trimarco stated he uses a flow divider with his power steering pumps and hydroboost. So not all of the fluid is flowing through the hydroboost and wouldn't require any porting either.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...a40KVCVbCkiJZh-xX3sxXIjEQIL2yMGeZtAFiVqA_9F_4

 

[dignifiedWT]

I am running a 1995? F Superduty master cylinder on my 93 vacuum booster. Has a bigger bore than whatever the normal f350s had. I also have the generic rear disc brakes with chevy calipers etc. Stock d60 front brakes. Truck stops great. I found the MC on rockauto for less than $30! Had to drill out the mounting holes a little as the spacing isn't the same. No proportioning valve either.

 

[Snowracer]

had some time this weekend so looked over the truck and started to get it ready for another trip next weekend. finally got around to putting a rear winch on, not super happy with the fairlead so will probably order a steel hawse fairlead so can move it closer to the winch

was tired of having the air filter next to my head for trial rides. have had issues with the filter falling off cause of bouncing around so make a quick mount to hold it

spent a few minutes and got the door to open and close bit better, had to shim the striker and beat the cab and door with the BFH

but it got me thinking of going more firewall truggy with the cab as doors are pretty much done and roof is messed up pretty bad. so was playing with the tape but not quite ready to start cutting

then went to go and check my timing as motor seems like its running retarted as headers are glowing and shotting flames ect. got everything clean and ready then the truck would not start. started checking stuff and was having a large draw as soon as i go to key power, tossed the jumper pack on it and and still would not start. after cleaning all the terminals and talking to a buddy was able to trace the draw down to my alternator. disconnected the alternator and truck would still not start as batteries where low so bypassed them and used some jumper cables and loose battery with still no luck starting so tested my starter and it was pulling huge power trying to start. so as of right now it needs a new starter and alternator and its 50/50 if the yellow tops are ok

 

[rattle_snake]

I am running a 1995? F Superduty master cylinder on my 93 vacuum booster. Has a bigger bore than whatever the normal f350s had. I also have the generic rear disc brakes with chevy calipers etc. Stock d60 front brakes. Truck stops great. I found the MC on rockauto for less than $30! Had to drill out the mounting holes a little as the spacing isn't the same. No proportioning valve either.

Wouldn't a smaller bore M/C provide more brake line pressure than a larger one? And better braking?
Given PSI in 'force per area', lowering area will increase pressure for same pedal force.

 

[dignifiedWT]

Wouldn't a smaller bore M/C provide more brake line pressure than a larger one? And better braking?
Given PSI in 'force per area', lowering area will increase pressure for same pedal force.

I don't claim to know anything about the inner workings of the master cylinder or much about hydraulics, but I figured that the rear brakes would need more volume due to the rear chevy calipers. Just looked up the specs on rockauto - 95 F superduty bore is 1.312", Stock 93 F-350 diesel lists a 1.125" bore. Maybe Snowracer is using maple syrup instead of DOT 3? I never drove my truck with the stock MC and rear disc brakes so I have nothing to compare mine to. I know it stops better than my toyota axle/samura rig ever did.

 

[dignifiedWT]

so as of right now it needs a new starter and alternator and its 50/50 if the yellow tops are ok

Bummer to hear about the electrical gremlins. When it rains it pours.

I vote that you keep the doors if they still work! Once you start cutting the cab up you won't know where to stop. Then you'll wish you just started from scratch (like me right now). Truck looks great. Keep the updates coming!

 

[Firetwig]

How's the truck coming?

 

[Snowracer]

How's the truck coming?

its not, tested both my yellow tops and they are dicked so havent touched the truck since. plan on doing some stuff in the shop over the holidays so should have a bit of an update in the new year

 

[YotaAtieToo]

its not, tested both my yellow tops and they are dicked so havent touched the truck since. plan on doing some stuff in the shop over the holidays so should have a bit of an update in the new year

Do some research on how to shock them back to life.

You usually either need an old school charger or have to trick a smart charger by hooking it to another battery also for a bit. It's been a long ass time since I messed with one, but you don't have much to loose right now.

 

[Snowracer]

Do some research on how to shock them back to life.

You usually either need an old school charger or have to trick a smart charger by hooking it to another battery also for a bit. It's been a long ass time since I messed with one, but you don't have much to loose right now.

ive read up on doing that and tried the big jump start charger but no luck. they are 10+ years old so surprised they have lasted this long. im going to make the swap over to a group 31 yellow top as i have a good one of them and 1 should be ok for almost everything other then really hard long winch pulls

 

[YotaAtieToo]

ive read up on doing that and tried the big jump start charger but no luck. they are 10+ years old so surprised they have lasted this long. im going to make the swap over to a group 31 yellow top as i have a good one of them and 1 should be ok for almost everything other then really hard long winch pulls

Gotcha, I've actually never ran dual batteries. 1 good one is fine for 99% of everything. Even one night of wincing for hours and hours, 1 large die hard platinum was fine. Only had to stop and wait once. I think a high amp alternator would have been better than a 2nd battery.

 

[Snowracer]

Gotcha, I've actually never ran dual batteries. 1 good one is fine for 99% of everything. Even one night of wincing for hours and hours, 1 large die hard platinum was fine. Only had to stop and wait once. I think a high amp alternator would have been better than a 2nd battery.

have always ran dual as have always had diesel rigs as need them to start the oil burners. a group 31 has more cca and reserve capacity then a single 34/78 im running now so i should be fine going back to a single battery. plus like you said a high amp alternator will keep up and im running a 130amp alternator so runs the rig just fine and im ok with having to sit and wait to recharge after a long winch pull ect

 

[YotaAtieToo]

have always ran dual as have always had diesel rigs as need them to start the oil burners. a group 31 has more cca and reserve capacity then a single 34/78 im running now so i should be fine going back to a single battery. plus like you said a high amp alternator will keep up and im running a 130amp alternator so runs the rig just fine and im ok with having to sit and wait to recharge after a long winch pull ect

My 90 12 valve only had 1 battery ​​​​​​

When I say I had to wait and charge, it was after like 6 hours of winching. Enough to kill the motor on an 8274, well it still worked, it was just weak.

Where's the buggy thread?