What's new
By:
Filters

Picked up a shitbox!

tribal4krawler said:
don’t tell me you got thornturds lol. Hope the Holley kit goes on easy and works well for you.
Click to expand...
I'm going full retro retard..... LMAO...... no, no thornbirds.

I'm going to look at a brand spanking new set of 38.5x13.5r16.5 boggers. Guy is knocking off $700 from the price he paid. It's a good price. My first rock crawler had boggers and it did really good at Clayton OK and other places, so I'm not too scared to run them.

Maybe next year when I start building my 1 tons I'll actually get a set of tires that I really want which would be either sticky treps or 43" sx. but that is about a year or 2 down the road. Right now I just want some tires that dont break the bank and will work.
 
Picked up the tires, it was waaay too good of a deal to pass up.... I'll post pics of the tires mounted once we get to it.. It's been a while since I broke down H1 wheels with pvc inserts... IIRC it's kind of a pita..lol


20220104_190355.jpg
 
Does anyone know where you can find info on coil springs when compressed? What I am looking for is to lower the jeep in the simplest way right now which is get shorter coils and shocks, but a quick google search hasn't really turned up any info on any thing too helpful. I am looking for; TJ 3" lift coils when on the vehicle, the over all height.

The coils I have on this jeep are tall as shit, and I would like to find something about 3-4" shorter. I may jump on a jeep group on FB and just ask everyone to measure their overall length of coils installed and sitting in the drive way and see who'm has the best options. I know I have more factors to consider like my engine weights about twice what most new jeeps weights, but I can cross that bridge when I get there.
 
I wish I would have come in here and see this the other day.

Send the Holly stuff back, or buy a second one to keep in the rig as a spare.
 
Lilyota said:
I wish I would have come in here and see this the other day.

Send the Holly stuff back, or buy a second one to keep in the rig as a spare.
Click to expand...

I'd like to know your back story on your opinion. Almost every review I have read has been great.

Only bad stuff I read is that for some reason the system can run lean on some engines... But that is far and few between....
 
DFW Rusty said:
I'd like to know your back story on your opinion. Almost every review I have read has been great.

Only bad stuff I read is that for some reason the system can run lean on some engines... But that is far and few between....
Click to expand...
Mine had a total system failure out on the trail last winter.

Before that it was a battle trying to get it to run correctly.

It was always very rich.

I had a Howell system for years and years before that.

It's an apples and oranges situation

The Howell system was very reliable but not a horsepower maker like the Sniper.

I actually went with the Sniper to rid myself of my Howell system Achilles heel "the ignition filter"

Turn's out that that part isn't so bad to deal with and I could have lived without the extra power.

Personally it'll always be some sort of factory injection from here on out.

It's a real pain in the ass tryin to get tech support without cell service out on a trail in the snow somewhere.
 
DFW Rusty said:
I think we dialed the problem last night. I'm not really a motor expert, more gears and suspension guy.. However I had an old shade tree mechanic buddy stop by and help me figure it out.

A- the supply fuel line was too close to the exhaust. We re-routed the line off the inner fender and ran it on top of the frame rail. We also cut some marine grade fuel line and slid it over the fuel line where it is at it's closest point to the exhaust to help insulate it. That helped a bunch.

B- After the fuel line was fixed I still had a miss and it was running way to rich and would "load up" the carb after letting off the throttle kinda hard. So we leaned out the mixture on the carb 2 clicks and it smoothed out really good.

While checking the vacuum stuff for leaks we found something that is leaking, we were spraying WD40 on the vacuum lines to see if any where leaking and when we sprayed this plate with 2 solid tubes coming out of it. you could hear the idle bog just a little. Does anyone know what the hell this is called so I can get a new gasket for it?

20211228_184542.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks like a hot-air choke tube to me.
 
I got the tires mounted.... Yup, those PVC inserts a mother fawker... We chained the tires to a tree and pulled the inserts out with a tractor...

I realized last night that I dont have the right fuel pump so I ordered a High flow fuel pump from amazon and the 3/8" fuel line with the better fittings.

The jeep has an inline fuel pump and yet they ran the lines to the old mechanical fuel pump. I am going to bypass the mechanical fuel pump and get a blank off plate.

Hoping to possibly install the Holley EFI tonight, but I might not. Wont be able to touch the jeep this weekend, installing a 2" lift on the wife's new bronco and then working on our house sunday. The EFI might just have to wait until next weekend.

Love them or hate them you have to admit, boggers are a good lookin tire! Hell they even make my wedding ring finger look good!
271163196_5103922102953636_4049116616427452594_n.jpg
20220106_191215.jpg

20220107_055230.jpg
 
I dig it dude. I agree, it’ll look better lowered. FWIW one of my race buddies has the sniper kit on his 351w and he had a lot of issues initially with it but seems to be fine now.
 
tribal4krawler said:
I dig it dude. I agree, it’ll look better lowered. FWIW one of my race buddies has the sniper kit on his 351w and he had a lot of issues initially with it but seems to be fine now.
Click to expand...

Thanks... It's my second time not building a jeep from basically scratch and it is always interesting and challenging to redesign certain things like it sitting too f-ing high. However, it's a fun project.

I have this hair up my ass right now to order an atlas t-case, but I'm 109% sure my wife would kill me. I am supposed to be building our carport and finishing some stuff on our deck with that money, but I built an atlas on their website and it was exactly the amount I have in my dummy fund and it is sooooo tempting.. Pretty sure I'll chicken out and not do it, but I have decided that by the end of this year I will have an atlas 4.3 on order for this jeep!

My plan was to lock down a set of tons before I do the t-case, but I think I would rather get the upper half of the jeep 110% and then start on the axles.
 
Last edited:
Did they end up being scout axles?

what spline are the front outers? just curious. Enjoying this build, I also have soft spot for boggers
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Did they end up being scout axles?

what spline are the front outers? just curious. Enjoying this build, I also have soft spot for boggers
Click to expand...
They were scout axles. 27 spline outers.

I got kind of lucky on being able to have a scout to compare it with. My buddy is literally resto-moding a scout II in the bay next to this jeep. I went over and measured his front axle and everything was the exact same.
 
ryantowry_81 said:
man our definition of shit box is way different....hahahaha

I expected to see a rolled XJ or a ford or something:stirthepot:

she is looking good. Keep up the good work.
Click to expand...

It's a sneaky shitbox... It's got great bones, but there is some serious TLC needed on things before I feel it is ready for the trails. Like the busted bell housing, trans is leaking all over the place, t-case is leaking on the rear output shaft, the trans skid is welded to the frame on the driver side, all the power steering/ hydraulic lines are leaking, and more little dumb things... It's an obvious older built rig, I'm betting about 15+ years and at one point this thing probably shined like a diamond (weld work is clean, suspension is well designed even though it's tall, axles are setup really nice), but I am thinking at one point someone who bought the jeep really thrashed on it with out putting in the maintenance.
 
are you gonna chop down that gigantic front bumper? looks like you could have awesome clearance if you chopped about a foot off that thing.
 
ryantowry_81 said:
remember rule number one of shitbox's " if it is still leaking, it still has oil" :lmao:
Click to expand...
LOL.... yup... My 78 CJ5 has had a slow rear main leak since I got it in 2001 and that's always been my response when people ask if I'm going to fix it... I tell em it's easier to look under it than to pull the dip stick...lol
 
tribal4krawler said:
are you gonna chop down that gigantic front bumper? looks like you could have awesome clearance if you chopped about a foot off that thing.
Click to expand...
We were just talking about that last night. I bet that in the future I will probably when I do the major overhaul for 1 tons. However right now I'll leave it alone because that weird looking 8" extension on the front is actually a functional air tank. So, I'll have to re-route all the airlines and install an actual air tank.
 
Oh wow. That’s definitely a 90s build then lol. I’d never put an air tank in a crawler these days.
 
Worked on the jeep some over the weekend. Didn't really have a lot of time to finish much up. However did finally start the Sniper install. Got the fuel lines ran to the gas tank, mounted the sniper, mounted the fuel pump, installed the sniper temp sensor.

I have to go to the hydraulic shop and see if they have an adapter or reducer or something that goes from the A.N. 10 to the A.N. 6.

I'm running 3/8" Race fuel lines on the feed side, and standard 5/16" fuel line on the return side.

The coolant on top is from when we installed the temp sensor.

20220109_145354.jpg
20220109_145420.jpg
 
So I've been at home sick for most of this week, should be ok to go back to work tomorrow... However, idle time is never safe with me. I was looking at the next big upgrade and I am stuck. Finding passenger drop D60 is not nearly as easy as finding driver drop d60 (irrelevant at the second, but it will make sense in a minute) ... My thoughts were to upgrade the t-case first and then in a year or so upgrade the axles. However, if I were to upgrade the t-case first then I will be stuck using passenger drop d60 for the front. My thoughts are would you upgrade the axles first and baby the 20 t-case, for the next year or so, or would you buy the case that fits the jeep now and then spend the next year hoping to find a pass drop d60 that isn't $2k for a donor? Neither will happen tomorrow, but looking to do the next big upgrade during the summer.
 
FWIW, I ran a Dana 20 with a 3:15 low gear in my last buggy and it held up for quite a while with 42” stickies. Also ran D20s in my last few EBs with 38s with no issues. I think you’ll be fine.
 
Got the Jeep running again. Tuning the Holley is going to be a process to say the least, I have 0 experience tuning or monkeying with air/ fuel mixtures. For my engine, just putting it in learn mode and leaving it wont work. We had to adjust the a/f (air/fuel) for just about everything manually, it kept flooding the engine at idle with a a/f of 20+, then got that adjusted and then had to adjust the a/f for idle after wot. I also found this option for leaning out on start and man does it make it fire up fast, I run about 60% on start up and I mean it fires almost as fast I push the start button! All and all, I really like it so far, I know it will be a bunch of playing with it, but the throttle response is snappy and it seemed to put some more life in the O'l 304.

I will say if you buy the Holley sniper, I would recomend the complete master kit with fuel pump and fuel lines. I cheaped out to save a buck and it bit me in the butt. I kept not getting all the fittings I needed and I still have not received my f-ing fuel filter!

I still have some cleaning up of the wires to do, I am going to wire the fuel pump into the harness for the Holley, mount the monitor in the jeep, heat wrap the fuel lines, finish securing the fuel lines to the frame. Then I should be done with this little project! In the pics the old fuel lines are there, I removed them late last night, right before I was done.

Vid of it running for the first time on the Holley Sniper, had the idle up to high, we adjusted seconds after this vid.


20220115_203222.jpg
20220116_125118.jpg
 
Last edited:
tribal4krawler said:
FWIW, I ran a Dana 20 with a 3:15 low gear in my last buggy and it held up for quite a while with 42” stickies. Also ran D20s in my last few EBs with 38s with no issues. I think you’ll be fine.
Click to expand...
Agreed, Dana 20 is a pretty stout t-case that is luckily in plentiful supply so far. I was talking to some buddies about it over the weekend and came up with the idea to see if I'd have any luck finding a pass drop axle up north. I put in a call to my brother in PA and put the bug in his ear if he knows anyone with an old chevy rotting away in a field near him or some axles at a junk yard to let me know. I have lots of family in western PA and kind of hoping one of them finds what I need. I'm in no hurry at the moment, but would love to lock down some donor axles by mid summer so I could go ahead and order an atlas that would work in the jeep right now.
 
DFW Rusty said:
Does anyone know where you can find info on coil springs when compressed? What I am looking for is to lower the jeep in the simplest way right now which is get shorter coils and shocks, but a quick google search hasn't really turned up any info on any thing too helpful. I am looking for; TJ 3" lift coils when on the vehicle, the over all height.

The coils I have on this jeep are tall as shit, and I would like to find something about 3-4" shorter. I may jump on a jeep group on FB and just ask everyone to measure their overall length of coils installed and sitting in the drive way and see who'm has the best options. I know I have more factors to consider like my engine weights about twice what most new jeeps weights, but I can cross that bridge when I get there.
Click to expand...
Best I’ve found is the metalcloak website. Check the bottom they've got dimensions as well as videos on function.
Helpful people with a phone call too.
Link to example.

metalcloak.com

TJ/LJ Wrangler Coils, True Dual Rate Coils, 3.5", Rear

TJ Wrangler True Dual Rate™ Coils are manufactured of hi-tensile chrome silicon steel alloy that surpasses the typical aftermarket coil springs in extended length, ride quality and long-lasting durability. These springs are made specifically for the Jeep TJ Wrangler applications. Features...
metalcloak.com metalcloak.com
 
Hilake2 said:
Best I’ve found is the metalcloak website. Check the bottom they've got dimensions as well as videos on function.
Helpful people with a phone call too.
Link to example.

metalcloak.com

TJ/LJ Wrangler Coils, True Dual Rate Coils, 3.5", Rear

TJ Wrangler True Dual Rate™ Coils are manufactured of hi-tensile chrome silicon steel alloy that surpasses the typical aftermarket coil springs in extended length, ride quality and long-lasting durability. These springs are made specifically for the Jeep TJ Wrangler applications. Features...
metalcloak.com metalcloak.com
Click to expand...
Thank you. That is actually quite helpful.

I'm actually doing all the homework on this right now. I am looking at putting a 15 gallon fuel cell in the bed, then cut all the rear suspension loose and move it back 11". During this I will leave the front where it is. Run the front shocks up into the fender well further (4-6"), probably get 12" shocks for the rear. Then lower the entire jeep atleast 4". It sounds like a lot, but if I had all my ducks in a row, I bet I could do it in a weekend.
 
Got the fuel filter on last night and got the fuel lines secured, took the jeep for a short cruise and crawled some rock piles behind the shop. Jeep runs really good, but the system still has some bugs that need worked out. It randomly will bump the A/F up to almost 26 and flood the jeep out, it seems to do it on start up and after going WOT. I've been playing with it and making it better.

No later than Monday the jeep is going under the knife for the first time. Going to take the trans and t-case off to replace the bell housing, install new seals on the trans and t-case (just ordered both seal kits from 4wp). Also going to build a new trans-tcase mount/ skid. The current trans mount is made from like a 1/4 piece of schedule 80 12" pipe that was cut up and redneck engineered into the mount. It also has the front lower control arm brackets welded to it (I hade when people put the control arm mounts on the trans mount). I will be building new brackets to fasten the lca to the frame not the trans mount.
 
Didn't really get much done on the jeep over the weekend or last night, however I did get it on the lift last night and I noticed that the driver side ball joints are toast! I was looking last night and DTF has ball joint eliminator kits for $160. Are they all they are cracked up to be or should I just buy some HD ball joints for about the same price?
 
Welp.... last night I got tied up doing family shit, so I didn't get to work on the jeep at all.... However, while sitting idle I decided to order some stuff...

Corbeau racing bench seat for the back-
Summit 17 gallon slim racing fuel cell-
summit 26000 BTU heater-
best top windjammer-
best top bikini top-
best top half doors-
amazon special fire extinguisher holder-
Moog upper & lower ball joints-
spare belts-
new spark plugs-

I am going to try and get a stick of 1.5" DOM from work that I can extend the cage over the back seat with.

I decided not to do the ball joint delete yet, I read it's a total pita and that it is recomended to take the axle to get the upper C machined for the bronze sleeve... I figured since they axles aren't forever that I dont want to invest that kind of work into them.

I got the fuel cell, because I want to lower the jeep rather soon. I dont think I will get it done before it's maiden trip in March, but I want to have the fuel cell ready for as soon as I do it. Right now I am looking at radflo 2.0 air shocks for all 4 corners. Run all 4 shocks up through the fender wells, this would allow me to drop the jeep 6" atleast (maybe more). I will cut the entire rear suspension off and move it back almost 8", making the wheel base go from 102" to about 110".
 
My work is cut out for me, that is for sure! I knew they welded the trans-cross member/ skid to the driver side of the frame when I bought it, but it still kind of sucked having to grind out the welds!

Someone at some point welded the cross member that the rear lower control arms attach too to the frame.. Which wouldn't be a problem, but it is blocking me from getting the t-case off! Now I have to cut that cross member off do what I have to do and then re-mount it. I am going to burn to bolt up plates here at work today so that I can weld them to the cross member for future removal. Bummer part is, I am having to do all this extra work because some dumbass decided to weld shit instead of making it bolt on!

Already broke the t-case loose, because I was hoping maybe I could spin it around to miss the cross member, but there is no way in hell it's coming out with that cross member there.

Check out the beautiful welds on the exhaust... Those are impressive!


20220126_164140.jpg


20220126_184858.jpg


20220126_184828.jpg
20220126_184917.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh