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Panzers: I break rocks thread

I wouldn't worry about building it "nice" since it's pretty much a forgone conclusion that you just eyeballing "yeah should be good enough" sized components from your junk pile will come out 10x more solidly built than some engineer figuring out what the forces are and then picking the cheapest material/design that has enough safety factor (which is how like 90% of commercial equipment is built these days).

If it can provide enough torque I think your wheel hub idea is the best one yet. You can always get a teeny tiny displacement hydraulic motor driving by a reversible electric motor to power it. For the kind of duty cycle you need it wouldn't even need a reservoir or cooling, just a high spot to bleed it. If you're crafty you can probably pipe it all with hard line and not even have hoses to worry about. Controlling torque could/would be a simple case of a pressure gauge and a reference chart.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
I didn’t get the drops shipped out yet I got the boxes and just need to get them filled for you guys. Tomorrow looks like a rain day so I might have some time to get this done.
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Still need somewhere to send the shipping $$. Don't be nice and spend your money sending scraps of metal to a bunch of fake internet people :flipoff2:
 
A life goal has been achieved. I successfully made a few screen clamp bars. You don’t understand the excitement lol. God I’m a dork lol. Each of the three deck screens needs 30 of these fuckers. I have 4 triple deck screens and 3 2 deck screens. So all added all up I need a metric fuck ton of these.

The ones I have now are all mix and match wore the hell out or bent. I hated buying them for $60+ a piece. I need to make sure they work good before I weld a Hardox bolt head protector on it. Way too much excitement over a stupid bent piece of steel.


C3A1A79D-B1E1-4282-95F6-EFC597C6113F.jpeg
 
Dethmachinefab said:
I assume the brake is up and running. :grinpimp:
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Good enough for my show lol. My 10hp rotary gets angry when I turn it on but whatever. Once she’s up to speed it’s good to go. I tripped the 50 amp single phase breaker a few times starting it up.

It’s gonna take some fiddling to figure out how to get everything adjusted just right but I got it really close. The top plate could use some tightening of the gibs as it seems to have a little movement. I’ll make my little brother go through it this winter. He’ll go all anal on it and get it running good. He has stuff he wants to make on it.

So far I’m happy. Just need to find a big 4-way bottom die for it. A 1,2,3,4 would be perfect.
 
ooh square hole punch, fancy pantsy

ETA: I finally hardwired my RPC in so I could ditch the 50A breaker
it ain't like it goes anywhere, and the 3ph draw is significantly lower than the single phase draw, so you can still use 50a dryer plugs on your machines with 50a 3ph breakers on that side of the RPC
 
[486] said:
ooh square hole punch, fancy pantsy
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rectangle actually. That way the bolt has a little play to accommodate different thickness screens/ different screen box bolt hole height.

Cnc plasma. Been looking for a used strippit with a boat load of tooling. Some day I’ll find a nice one. It would be awesome for making these. The holes would be really nice then. It will be my next retard purchase lol
 
every time I edit more shit in I dread that someone will be johnny on the spot with a reply
you catch the bit on the RPC? lol

any sort of ironworker is 100% on my "stupid purchases" list, even if I've gotta plop it outside with a pickup topper as a roof
 
[486] said:
any sort of ironworker is 100% on my "stupid purchases" list, even if I've gotta plop it outside with a pickup topper as a roof
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I'll wait to see how that works out for you before I decide whether I'll spend my limited climate controlled real-estate on that or a surface grinder.
 
Outside of a nice welder, Iron worker was my first purchase in real tooling. Burn table, pressbrake, myriad of other shit came later. I was so tired of driling holes on a full crawler build I went out and spent 9K on a brand new one. Never had vehicle loans but tool loans I had no problem with. Priceless. I've of course seen used ones with no time on them for way less since then. Still don't regret it. It was my brake for a while too in the center station, only 11" wide, you'd be surprised what you can make with some head scratching
 
So my next issue. In my quest to continue to use old equipment I need to make a set of excavator sprockets. My case 9060b needs new rails and sprockets. I got the rails no issue sprockets on the other hand are nowhere to be found.

Option 1 half ass weld up the teeth on the old ones. Not a fan of this as they are pretty poor and don’t have much teeth left.

Option 2 get some cut out of 2.5” thick T1 and machine them on my horizontal boring mill.

Question is T1 gonna be the right choice for this application? Can I cut flame cut T1 without to much of a issue? This is gonna be a lot of work for what should be a $900 part. She’s way too nice of machine to let her go.

this is what it will look like. This one is off my cat excavator in the same weight class. Reference it is about 2.5-3 in thick and 34” in diameter.

9C78FA45-3D08-4CE9-A764-02F2D0ADF4DB.jpeg


Yes i will try this one to see if it will fit when I get the 9060b tore apart. I don’t know if the track pitch is the same or not as the cat. Stuff I will have to look at.
 
Damn dude, thats like brand new, my old man would run his dozers till sprockets tips were folding over then put me to work welding half cut pipe in place with hardox.

cant find aftermarket or slightly used sprockets? Seems like a ton of work unless just completely not available.

what would hardness be after flame cutting it? Would you leave it or heat treat it?
 
Redtruggy said:
Damn dude, thats like brand new, my old man would run his dozers till sprockets tips were folding over then put me to work welding half cut pipe in place with hardox.

cant find aftermarket or slightly used sprockets? Seems like a ton of work unless just completely not available.

what would hardness be after flame cutting it? Would you leave it or heat treat it?
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Lol that’s not the right one. Lots of life on that one. The ones I need to replace are bad. I have been looking the past month to find something. Case cannot find anything either. Not a good deal
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Option 1 half ass weld up the teeth on the old ones.
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Seems like a good job to keep one of your guys busy for a couple weeks in the winter when there's nothing else for them to do.

making new ones seems like a massive undertaking, especially cutting that huuuuge center bore
 
RPS1030 said:
Not 100%, but some digging shows the pitch probably matches 345B & C
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That sprockets that I took a picture of is off my cat 350l. Once I get the chain I’ll measure the pitch.

The chain is toast. A few weeks back I had to pull a link out that broke. It was stretched enough to go back together minus one link. The bushings are all getting thin and breaking.
 
[486] said:
Seems like a good job to keep one of your guys busy for a couple weeks in the winter when there's nothing else for them to do.

making new ones seems like a massive undertaking, especially cutting that huuuuge center bore
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I would flame cut most of it. Then make a hero cut on the hbm lol. This is the best of the bad ideas. I’m hoping I could maybe modify a cat or Deere sprocket. Won’t know till this winter when I get it all pulled apart and measured up. Just trying to get projects all lined up. Need to be efficient in repairing this junk this winter.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
That sprockets that I took a picture of is off my cat 350l. Once I get the chain I’ll measure the pitch.

The chain is toast. A few weeks back I had to pull a link out that broke. It was stretched enough to go back together minus one link. The bushings are all getting thin and breaking.
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Ha, and the references I found don’t have the 350 :confused: And didn’t find the Case until another site, which is imperial (8.50) I’m assuming. But that converts to 215.9mm which the first ref showed for the 345s. But it’s the internet and I know enough to be dangerous. :homer:
 
Don't you have a massive CNC plasma or is that someone else?

A big flat part like that is just begging for plasma/waterjet.

Get a chunk of plate and do some test cuts in the center you'll be cutting out in order to get the speeds and feeds dialed in.

Hell, if you're really a cheapskate make an octogon out of welded flat stock and cut your part from that.

The taper can be added easily after the fact and you can probably skip the reduction in thickness and just run longer bolts or counter sink them in two operations (one to drill, one to make the bottom of the hole flat)
 
arse_sidewards said:
Don't you have a massive CNC plasma or is that someone else?

A big flat part like that is just begging for plasma/waterjet.

Get a chunk of plate and do some test cuts in the center you'll be cutting out in order to get the speeds and feeds dialed in.

Hell, if you're really a cheapskate make an octogon out of welded flat stock and cut your part from that.

The taper can be added easily after the fact and you can probably skip the reduction in thickness and just run longer bolts or counter sink them in two operations (one to drill, one to make the bottom of the hole flat)
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Yeah I have a 5x10 cnc plasma table. This will have to be flame cut or water jet. I’m thinking flame because something this big water jetted will cost 3000 each just for the cutting lol.

My local steel shop has a awesome burn table. That torch guy can make beautifully square cuts on thick steel. I always examine his skeletons when ever I’m by the table.

to turn the bores and counter bores I could make a faceplate for my hbm and swing it on the spindle. Then take a compound off a lathe and strap it to the table and turn it into a giant lathe. Should be super sketchy.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Yeah I have a 5x10 cnc plasma table. This will have to be flame cut or water jet. I’m thinking flame because something this big water jetted will cost 3000 each just for the cutting lol.

My local steel shop has a awesome burn table. That torch guy can make beautifully square cuts on thick steel. I always examine his skeletons when ever I’m by the table.

to turn the bores and counter bores I could make a faceplate for my hbm and swing it on the spindle. Then take a compound off a lathe and strap it to the table and turn it into a giant lathe. Should be super sketchy.
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How much would it cost you to upgrade the torch on your table to something that can do 2.5"?

It might pay for itself in one job.

Alternatively, the table DGAF what's on the end as long as it cuts. You might investigate mounting a cutting torch to the table. Test and tune time to get acceptable results will likely be substantial.

The counter bore doesn't need to be cut. You will be time and money ahead to just drill the holes and counter-bore them out big enough for your socket. For the counter-bore you need one drill to start the hole and a flat bottom drill to finish it. I suppose you could use an end mill but drilling with end mills is sketchy. I dunno if they are a high enough volume item for the chinese to be making them in the size you need but I would try to find drills that take carbide inserts since inserts are cheap and plasma slag isn't nice to things.
 
Re: counterbore, my sprocket slips over the drive hub and it has to be in there to line up with the idlers and track center line. It gets the tooth in the right place so the counterbore is needed
 
I thought you were telling him to do a stacked part out of 1/4" cuts. Real easy to do the relief in the center that way.

I mean, it's a terrible idea. But not the worst way I can think of to do it.
 
arse_sidewards said:
How much would it cost you to upgrade the torch on your table to something that can do 2.5"?

It might pay for itself in one job.

Alternatively, the table DGAF what's on the end as long as it cuts. You might investigate mounting a cutting torch to the table. Test and tune time to get acceptable results will likely be substantial.

The counter bore doesn't need to be cut. You will be time and money ahead to just drill the holes and counter-bore them out big enough for your socket. For the counter-bore you need one drill to start the hole and a flat bottom drill to finish it. I suppose you could use an end mill but drilling with end mills is sketchy. I dunno if they are a high enough volume item for the chinese to be making them in the size you need but I would try to find drills that take carbide inserts since inserts are cheap and plasma slag isn't nice to things.
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Yeah I have a 2 hose machine torch for the plasma table. Just not sure I have the skill to get it perfect on the first try lol.

The center bore needs to be turned on the lathe. It has a light press fit on the track drive gearbox. Needs to have that or you’ll break off all the bolts. A 110,000# machine crawling around on a rock pile is hard on shit.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Yeah I have a 2 hose machine torch for the plasma table. Just not sure I have the skill to get it perfect on the first try lol.

The center bore needs to be turned on the lathe. It has a light press fit on the track drive gearbox. Needs to have that or you’ll break off all the bolts. A 110,000# machine crawling around on a rock pile is hard on shit.
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You have a lot of empty space in the middle of the sprocket to practice fucking around with speeds and feeds in order to get it "right".

With a torch you'll have a hell of a time getting a good enough center bore.

Alternatively, you could just make new teeth rings and weld them to the bolt rings of your old sprocket. The torch can create a nice beveled edge that's perfect for welding up.

Now that I think about it, making a circle out of a bunch of bar stock welded together, cutting teeth into that and then welding that to the center part of the existing sprocket seems like the way to go. The part can be made from cheap material instead of expensive plate. No fucking around drilling a ton of big holes in 2" plate. No fucking around removing a ton of material for the counterbore or for individual counterbores on the holes. No making a facebplate and compound abomination for the HBM. No fucking up your lathe tooling turning a counterbore through a bunch of slag on the HBM.

Basically just make your own sprocket segments.
 
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arse_sidewards said:
You have a lot of empty space in the middle of the sprocket to practice fucking around with speeds and feeds in order to get it "right".

With a torch you'll have a hell of a time getting a good enough center bore.
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why waste the center slug when the corners of the square plate are much more uselessly shaped?

you haven't been around a good track torch operator, you can get results that look just about laser cut

tooth sections are a good idea though, they used to do that with older cats that had spoked drive sprockets, you'd torch the old sprockets off in sections and weld in the new ones, I suppose so you didn't have to take apart the whole final drive on them
 
Practice on some thinner plate with your cnc plasma to get the pitch and tooth profile perfect, then send the file to burn the whole thing out. Shouldn't be much slag and very little bevel, hit the inside with a grinder to get rid of the hard stuff. Then get in in a vertical lathe or a big mill with rotary table to cut to finished size. Align the bores and transfer the hole pattern, mag drill the holes.

The tooth ring is much simpler, I'd set the torch up and cut the teeth off on with the sprocket on the machine. Use it like a powered rotary table, so it's a nice true bevel.
 
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