[486 said:;n315281]100% I'd be getting a quote on getting that piston hard chromed
fuck spending 5500 bucks on a whole new one for some surface finish troubles
you're talking about the scoring up on the upper rod bit, right?
I can't see how that couldn't have a couple thousandths turned off, plated back up, then ground to size
the seal head looks disgusting to fix from that one picture, fuck screwing with that if its worn oval
ETA: though if you could make up (or get made) a new one of them pucks a couple thousandths undersize, then you could just get the piston ground rather than fucking with plating it larger
Or going the other direction, hone the puck out to be concentric, then oversize the piston through plating whatever tiny amount that it takes.
I made the mistake of buying a used NPK Hammer once, turned into a $30k repair bill.
We tried to chrome the piston, but it was pretty shortlived, I think it lasted about 50hrs before flaking off and making a mess of everything.
New piston was like $8k or something ridiculous, thats the route we ended up going. That hammer should have been sent to the scrap yard, live and learn, never buy a used hammer.
I made the mistake of buying a used NPK Hammer once, turned into a $30k repair bill.
We tried to chrome the piston, but it was pretty shortlived, I think it lasted about 50hrs before flaking off and making a mess of everything.
New piston was like $8k or something ridiculous, thats the route we ended up going. That hammer should have been sent to the scrap yard, live and learn, never buy a used hammer.
i have bought a couple of used hammers. But they were from a city and one from the state. Both were older but looked like new inside.
I made the mistake of buying a used NPK Hammer once, turned into a $30k repair bill.
We tried to chrome the piston, but it was pretty shortlived, I think it lasted about 50hrs before flaking off and making a mess of everything.
New piston was like $8k or something ridiculous, thats the route we ended up going. That hammer should have been sent to the scrap yard, live and learn, never buy a used hammer.
For being in bfe we have tons of super specialized manufacturers within 120 miles of me who take in walk in work. I would bet this chromer is here because of Mercury marine. I could not ever keep my fleet of junk running on a shoe string budget without close access to all this practical knowledge. It’s amazing what a case or two of beer gets you in Wisconsin.
The stupidest looking torch which the pic is upside down. It literally is a torch that dumps spray powder down a tube to weld it to a shaft. I love shit that is so simple but works flawlessly.
So all this talk of metal sprays. I got a dodge gearbox that was a leaker. The seals cut a nasty gouge in the shafts. So Ill use my old school rototec torch to build the shaft back up...
Why not use a speedi-sleeve? I thought they made them in pretty much every shaft diameter known to man, and while it's bloody expensive for a little ring of steel, it doesn't seem that bad compared to the labor of doing it this way.....
I would love to do a you tube channel but I don’t think I’m good on camera. Not sure on the production and the other stuff it takes to make a good video. I would also come off as the crazy Guy. Maybe some day I’ll have to try it out.
I do not need to brush up on the wisconsinisms lol. I had about a good 40 years of practice.
[486 said:;n328491]Oh, how straight did it stay?
I'd think it'd end up cupped away from the cut.
What does something like that weigh? I enjoy this thread
The parent piece stayed straight as it came off the mill. The pictures are kinda deceiving. That cut was 5” deep in the plate. The cut off curled like a ribbon. It really didn’t seem to get the shop much warmer than it was only took like 8 mins to cut. I had it moving at 10 inches a minute. I should have went a touch faster as the cut was belly shaped. I don’t use that enough to get it perfect lol.
[486 said:;n328564]
the steel burning sure makes a lot of the heat I'd have thought that would take like an hour to preheat alone haha
What does something like that weigh? I enjoy this thread
Easy rule of thumb for steel is 40 lb per sq ft of 1" plate.
thats great, but you have to back it out when doing thinner sheets 😆.500lb/cubic foot is the better rule of thumb.
Panzer, why t1 and not AR of some variety? Crack resistance? I bought an 8x20 of 1” T 1 a few years back for pintle plates and braces on RR trucks. Kept all the skeletons off the table, have to be good for something someday!