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Panzers: I break rocks thread

100% I'd be getting a quote on getting that piston hard chromed
fuck spending 5500 bucks on a whole new one for some surface finish troubles
you're talking about the scoring up on the upper rod bit, right?
I can't see how that couldn't have a couple thousandths turned off, plated back up, then ground to size

the seal head looks disgusting to fix from that one picture, fuck screwing with that if its worn oval

ETA: though if you could make up (or get made) a new one of them pucks a couple thousandths undersize, then you could just get the piston ground rather than fucking with plating it larger
Or going the other direction, hone the puck out to be concentric, then oversize the piston through plating whatever tiny amount that it takes.
 
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[486 said:
;n315281]100% I'd be getting a quote on getting that piston hard chromed
fuck spending 5500 bucks on a whole new one for some surface finish troubles
you're talking about the scoring up on the upper rod bit, right?
I can't see how that couldn't have a couple thousandths turned off, plated back up, then ground to size

the seal head looks disgusting to fix from that one picture, fuck screwing with that if its worn oval

ETA: though if you could make up (or get made) a new one of them pucks a couple thousandths undersize, then you could just get the piston ground rather than fucking with plating it larger
Or going the other direction, hone the puck out to be concentric, then oversize the piston through plating whatever tiny amount that it takes.

I’ll have to find someone that does this. I don’t know if this is a too violent of a location for chrome playing. I really don’t want it flaking off and contaminating the excavator’s hydraulic system. Maybe I’ll sto by hydraulics shop and see where they would send it
 
I made the mistake of buying a used NPK Hammer once, turned into a $30k repair bill.
We tried to chrome the piston, but it was pretty shortlived, I think it lasted about 50hrs before flaking off and making a mess of everything.
New piston was like $8k or something ridiculous, thats the route we ended up going. That hammer should have been sent to the scrap yard, live and learn, never buy a used hammer.
 
I made the mistake of buying a used NPK Hammer once, turned into a $30k repair bill.
We tried to chrome the piston, but it was pretty shortlived, I think it lasted about 50hrs before flaking off and making a mess of everything.
New piston was like $8k or something ridiculous, thats the route we ended up going. That hammer should have been sent to the scrap yard, live and learn, never buy a used hammer.

i have bought a couple of used hammers. But they were from a city and one from the state. Both were older but looked like new inside.
 
I made the mistake of buying a used NPK Hammer once, turned into a $30k repair bill.
We tried to chrome the piston, but it was pretty shortlived, I think it lasted about 50hrs before flaking off and making a mess of everything.
New piston was like $8k or something ridiculous, thats the route we ended up going. That hammer should have been sent to the scrap yard, live and learn, never buy a used hammer.

ah fuck thanks for the real world info

since they're making the pieces individually as they're ordered, maybe see if they're willing to adjust dimensions on the seal carrier for an undersized piston?
 
So I talked to the local hydraulic shop. He didn’t have the answers for me but he called up his hard chromer. After talking to the chromer it sounds like this is a common repair. The chrome shop does 2 of these hammer pistons a week. It will be a max 1500 repair. Sure beats 5500. I’m gonna give it a shot.

I am a very lucky person to live where I do. For being in bfe we have tons of super specialized manufacturers within 120 miles of me who take in walk in work. I would bet this chromer is here because of Mercury marine. I could not ever keep my fleet of junk running on a shoe string budget without close access to all this practical knowledge. It’s amazing what a case or two of beer gets you in Wisconsin.
 
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i have bought a couple of used hammers. But they were from a city and one from the state. Both were older but looked like new inside.

This one looked like new on the outside, and trash on the inside.
They either did an amazing paint job of the operator did a hell of a job never scratching it.
 
I made the mistake of buying a used NPK Hammer once, turned into a $30k repair bill.
We tried to chrome the piston, but it was pretty shortlived, I think it lasted about 50hrs before flaking off and making a mess of everything.
New piston was like $8k or something ridiculous, thats the route we ended up going. That hammer should have been sent to the scrap yard, live and learn, never buy a used hammer.

Chrome flaking off sounds like poor prep or an application problem. If it's done right there's no reason it should be coming off.

If not chrome plating, might be able to build up with another process. Lots of electroplating done at the shipyard to restore wear surfaces. Also might be a good application for cold spray.

There really shouldn't be any real load or fancy requirements for that surface - yes the hammer sees heavy load and vibration, but the sealing surface doesn't see that load, just vibration and whatever the surface speed of the piston is which really is not much different than many other applications.
 
I dropped the piston off this afternoon so a week or two she should be back and ready to go back together.

So all this talk of metal sprays. I got a dodge gearbox that was a leaker. The seals cut a nasty gouge in the shafts. So Ill use my old school rototec torch to build the shaft back up.

The stupidest looking torch which the pic is upside down. It literally is a torch that dumps spray powder down a tube to weld it to a shaft. I love shit that is so simple but works flawlessly.

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This is the output shaft of the gear box. Notice the grooves wore into each end where the seal rides. This is what we have to fix.

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Step one put it in the press and take it apart. Gear has a press fit holding it on. I use that to push that sides bearing off. A little heat in the gear and the press takes it off no issues.

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Once it’s taken apart I get it trued up on the old lathe.
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Once tried up I’ll cut out the bad spot with the tool at a 45 to the work piece. We want to leave a rough surface finish for the spray to bite into. I didn’t start the turning yet need to find my spot shot blaster to further roughen the area to be repaired up. I’ll use some Dykem blue to mask the areas I don’t want the spray to stick too.

Too be continued.....
 
For being in bfe we have tons of super specialized manufacturers within 120 miles of me who take in walk in work. I would bet this chromer is here because of Mercury marine. I could not ever keep my fleet of junk running on a shoe string budget without close access to all this practical knowledge. It’s amazing what a case or two of beer gets you in Wisconsin.

I had a customer I used to visit often up in Phillips (BW Paper, Marquip-Ward United). They make badass paper processing stuff that can shit out 4x8 sheets of triple-corrugated cardboard in seconds or less. I loved working with those guys because not only were they great engineers, but most were from that area originally (tough sell to get outside talent to move there) and had a get-shit-done mentality. The parking lot had a snowmobile area and many of the guys loved it because when the lake would freeze they'd just cut across and make the ride to work in half the time. When I was there in winter there were more snowmobiles than cars in the parking lot. Definitely a unique environment.

The stupidest looking torch which the pic is upside down. It literally is a torch that dumps spray powder down a tube to weld it to a shaft. I love shit that is so simple but works flawlessly.

Abom79 on youtube did a great video on how that thing works, and goes into the cut angle and surface prep etc. Really cool process.
 
So all this talk of metal sprays. I got a dodge gearbox that was a leaker. The seals cut a nasty gouge in the shafts. So Ill use my old school rototec torch to build the shaft back up...

Why not use a speedi-sleeve? I thought they made them in pretty much every shaft diameter known to man, and while it's bloody expensive for a little ring of steel, it doesn't seem that bad compared to the labor of doing it this way.....
 
Why not use a speedi-sleeve? I thought they made them in pretty much every shaft diameter known to man, and while it's bloody expensive for a little ring of steel, it doesn't seem that bad compared to the labor of doing it this way.....

they work but are a pain in these boxes. There isn’t much room for the speedy sleeve. You can see where the scoring is. I only have about 1/4” of width right where the seal runs to place the speedy sleeve. There is a 5/16 wide coller that needs to go on between the seal and snap ring.

So what ends up happening is I pound the speedy on as far as the driver goes. Then I walk around the shop trying to find another piece of something to drive it on further. I’ll get the drive ring pounded right up to bearing. Now I have 2 choices break drive ring off and pound it on further so it is out of the way of the collar that needs to go on or leave drive tang on and take a grinder and trim the speedy sleeve down.

Needless to say I usually have to order a 3rd one because I fuck one up.

The spray weld takes a little longer but it deposits a hard surface for the seal to wear on. I also like to practice these skills to make sure I can still do it. Winter time is the perfect time for this kind of shit.

I might make a auxiliary seal for this box as it’s the cone recycle belt that sees a ton of dry rock dust. I hate buying 3 little rings for $400.
 
I would love to do a you tube channel but I don’t think I’m good on camera. Not sure on the production and the other stuff it takes to make a good video. I would also come off as the crazy Guy. Maybe some day I’ll have to try it out.

I do not need to brush up on the wisconsinisms lol. I had about a good 40 years of practice.

Having dabbled at attempting this you simply hire it out. Add a artsy type College high school kid to do it all.
 
So this mornings project. I got a 17” wide 71” long 2” thick piece of T1 that needs a bevel on it. It will be used for a cutting edge on another large excavator bucket. I tried to order one from esco but they were 3-4 weeks out. I don’t have time for that shit lol.

I stood it up at a 68 degree angle and welded my track torch to it tossed a #4 tip in and let it eat.

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worked flawlessly until I ran out of oxygen:homer:. 100 psi torch pressure sure eats it up. Too excited to get it running to see what was left in the tank lol.

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It’s amazing what this old junk can do if you know how to use it.

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Hopefully I can get time to get that shaft built
up this afternoon.
 
What does something like that weigh? I enjoy this thread :smokin:
 
[486 said:
;n328491]Oh, how straight did it stay?
I'd think it'd end up cupped away from the cut.

The parent piece stayed straight as it came off the mill. The pictures are kinda deceiving. That cut was 5” deep in the plate. The cut off curled like a ribbon. It really didn’t seem to get the shop much warmer than it was only took like 8 mins to cut. I had it moving at 10 inches a minute. I should have went a touch faster as the cut was belly shaped. I don’t use that enough to get it perfect lol.
 
The parent piece stayed straight as it came off the mill. The pictures are kinda deceiving. That cut was 5” deep in the plate. The cut off curled like a ribbon. It really didn’t seem to get the shop much warmer than it was only took like 8 mins to cut. I had it moving at 10 inches a minute. I should have went a touch faster as the cut was belly shaped. I don’t use that enough to get it perfect lol.

the steel burning sure makes a lot of the heat I'd have thought that would take like an hour to preheat alone haha
 
[486 said:
;n328564]

the steel burning sure makes a lot of the heat I'd have thought that would take like an hour to preheat alone haha

It didn’t take long. Acetylene burns hot. Maybe 45sec to a minute to preheat. That’s a huge tip good for 6” thick steel.
 
Got the adapters tacked on and straight. We’ll preheat everything in the morning and burn them on before we fit it to the bucket. Easier to flip a edge than a 4.5 yard bucket.

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Cut off early tonight my snowmobile parts arrived and my neighbor got the cylinder boring done. Need to get that thing running.

Stopped at a buddies shop over the weekend and took a ton of flak that the snowmobile needs to be going for the Beatercross race. They got shirts and everything made up for me lol wtf. They are more excited than I am haha. I’m pretty sure if I finish infront of at least one person it will end up being a out of control drunk fest lol. Should be pretty epic
 
500lb/cubic foot is the better rule of thumb.
thats great, but you have to back it out when doing thinner sheets 😆.
I just keep 1/4” being 10.24 in my head and go from there, 10 is easy to multiply and divide from. Then again I never deal with 1’ thick plate.
 
Panzer, why t1 and not AR of some variety? Crack resistance? I bought an 8x20 of 1” T 1 a few years back for pintle plates and braces on RR trucks. Kept all the skeletons off the table, have to be good for something someday!
 
Panzer, why t1 and not AR of some variety? Crack resistance? I bought an 8x20 of 1” T 1 a few years back for pintle plates and braces on RR trucks. Kept all the skeletons off the table, have to be good for something someday!

yeah I would rather it not crack. These guys take a beating. You hook a 110,000 pound machine to it and pull. It sucks when you crack a adapter plate. It’s one hell of a weld to make and it will want to recrack in that same spot again. I’ll plate it with ar plate to give it some sacrificial steel to burn off.
 
Thanks for continuing to posting the random projects. Impressive torching on that bucket piece:smokin:
 
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