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Operation: Slug Nutz

This will not last long.

You need to spread the load out along that tube further. It will rip off that tube, bend it, or both.

Also, you should have the tcase crossmember bushings closer together. The "triangle" method is what seems to work best. The way it is now, when your chassis flexes, it's trying to twist your drivetrain.

I had a similar set up in my samurai with toyota cases and cracked the tcase housing. My current rig has the bushings closer together, right near the tcase which has been nicer to the tcase, but the tubing has broken twice.

These little motors may not put down much power, but multiply it by 42 before it get to the driveshaft and they will tear stuff up.:laughing:
I thought about that when I was building it, but I didn’t have any good ideas to spread it out without making it look kind of crappy. I figured I would just wing it. If it breaks the breaks, we have a couple trail welders in the group will burn it in keep going. Then redesign it when I get home. I haven’t heard of the triangle method before, but my buddy that was there when I was building that was trying to convince me to set the bushings up at the same width as the motor mount bushings so that the bushings are seeing the same amount of force. But I have another Toyota currently that has these 4XInovations motor mounts and this front range off-road crossmember, but in its full form where it goes all the way to the frame rails (just like the one I mocked up) the bushings on that set up are at the same width and I haven’t had any problems in that truck with transfer case or motor mount setup. This is my fourth Toyota and at this point I’ve had just about every motor mount transfer case mount combination. The only concern I have with the set up is the amount of weld surface on that tube, you might be right but I’m gonna send it and see what happens. I’m not too worried about chassis flex, my other Toyota has an exo on it with pretty much zero triangulation, the chassis not flexing as for as I can tell and the body is hard mounted so if it was I think it would be showing signs. This truck should be pretty stout when it’s done it’s going to have a pretty good amount of triangulation. I’ll report back when it breaks so you can tell me I told you so :beer:
 
Hey guys just checking in, sorry I haven’t posted any updates. I was cranking on it pretty hard to get it to KOH but it didn’t make it. KOH came up and I had to shift my priorities away from the build. But I’ll be getting back on the build soon! I’ll keep you guys posted!
 
I have been working on the truck the last couple weekends and got a little bit done. I installed the Marlin comp 4.7s and Trailgear output shaft in my T-Cases. Installed a new throw out bearing in the tranny and installed the tranny/t-cases back in the truck. I measured for driveshafts and made a general game plan/parts list
 

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Slowly collecting some parts nothing too exciting. Yota shop EGR plates, Amazon usb chargers with voltage readouts, Amazon standard cigarette lighters and a Marlin shift knob. I will be using the USB chargers with voltage read out temporary early as my volt gauge. At some point when the build is complete and I have extra funds, I’m planning on running a Lowrance for navigation, and that will be my primary volt gauge. I figured I would hook up a USB charger on both sides of the dash so driver and passenger could charge whatever. One of the standard cigarette lighters is to power my VisionX rock lights that I have left over from an old rig, the other is just for camp use for an air mattress pump, an inverter or whatever somebody needs to plug in.
 

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Thanks man! How is your rig going? I herd it’s getting an axle swap and Corey bought your old front axle!
 
Couple more things showed up today
AutoMeter Phantom water temp and oil pressure gauges. AutoMeter fuel pressure gauge for the fuel rail. Marlin Crawler low profile drain plug for my transfer cases
 

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Thanks man! How is your rig going? I herd it’s getting an axle swap and Corey bought your old front axle!
yessir, went to the slightly wider TG housing so working on swapping that in. nothing too exciting, just need to get it done and back in action

what's the goal for this thing's maiden voyage?
 
yessir, went to the slightly wider TG housing so working on swapping that in. nothing too exciting, just need to get it done and back in action

what's the goal for this thing's maiden voyage?
Awesome man! I am hoping to get it done soon to make it to the Marlin Roundup even though the official trip isn’t happening. But if I can’t make that KOH will be the goal :beer:
 
Built driveshafts this weekend! Huge help from one of my buddies! The front we used the Marlin Crawler kit and an end yoke from WFO
 

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The rear we used a stock slip and turned off the old tube on the lathe then a new end yoke from WFO on the other end
 

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I worked on the truck over the weekend. I finished the assembly of the driveshafts with Matsuba u joints and new flanges, installed the egr block off plates, low profile drain plug for my t cases, a new cap and rotor, new belt for the alternator and installed the rear driveshaft. I didn’t get a whole lot done but found a lot of little things that I needed to get.
 

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i meant to ask. and maybe its been said. with leaf springs out back how much steering can you get?
I have the same amount of steering in the front and rear. It uses the whole 8” ram. I cut the steering stops to match the throw. The super bald KR3’s barely clear the springs. I’m not exactly sure how many degrees it has but I can measure it when I’m there next
 
I have the same amount of steering in the front and rear. It uses the whole 8” ram. I cut the steering stops to match the throw. The super bald KR3’s barely clear the springs. I’m not exactly sure how many degrees it has but I can measure it when I’m there next
no need to measure. i just did not know how else to say it is all. so they clear the spring and life is good thats all i was really asking. did you have to inboard the springs some or because its wide 14 it was plenty of room?
 
I can measure it I would like to know anyway. The springs in the rear are just basic mounted under the frame on 63” Chevys. The bald 40” KR3’s barely fit I’m not sure if a newer set will clear the springs it will be close. When the project is done and I free up some funds I would like to run a decent used set of KR3 SR if they fit. If not I’ll be looking for a decent set of 39” Red label Krawlers
 
A couple parts showed up for the truck and I got the homie hook up on a couple things that might help me make some progress. When I worked on the truck last I went to bleed the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master was bad so I got a replacement Aisin. I also didn’t like how I ran the rear axle brake line on the housing and it was going to interfere with the fuel cell mount. But I was also out of line, so I ordered some more brake line to reroute that line. When I went to install the front driveshaft after I assembled them, I noticed that the flange on my front t case output was the incorrect pattern. So, my buddy hook me up with a couple stock flanges that are different patterns maybe one of them will work, and maybe one is the same one that I already have. Then he also hooked me up with a little aluminum overflow canister that I might be able to use to increase my hydro fluid reservoir capacity.
 

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why not swap the flange on the driveshaft?
What is the bolt pattern for the transfer case flange and the yoke you have?

I think Ford Rangers have a flange on the rear. Any idea if it would work for your front shaft?
 
why not swap the flange on the driveshaft?
What is the bolt pattern for the transfer case flange and the yoke you have?

I think Ford Rangers have a flange on the rear. Any idea if it would work for your front shaft?

Cv is different than single u joint. It's super easy to redrill, they don't even have to be perfect since it's centered off the pilot. I've redrilled dozens of them under the rig with a step bit :laughing:

I kinda like having the cv flange with at least 1 other set of holes drilled since it makes bumming a driveshaft on the trail easier.
 
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Cv is different than single u joint. It's super easy to redrill, they don't even have to be perfect since it's centered off the pilot. I've redrilled dozens of them under the rig with a step bit :laughing:

I kinda like having the cv flange with at least 1 other set of holes drilled since it makes bumming a driveshaft on the trail easier.
I never thought about borrowing a whole driveshaft.

From experience…atlas makes their own bolt pattern and uses two sizes of bolts. Also one bolt pattern is threaded and the other isn’t.
 
I never thought about borrowing a whole driveshaft.

Borrowed and lent them before. Mostly spares, but someone in our group has probably got back to the trailer and pulled theirs to get another guy off the trail at least once.

From experience…atlas makes their own bolt pattern and uses two sizes of bolts. Also one bolt pattern is threaded and the other isn’t.

Sorry, I was just talking strickly Toyota. Most, if not all of the 79-95 Toyota driveshafts use the same pilot with a few different patterns.
 
Drill new holes?

Cv is different than single u joint. It's super easy to redrill, they don't even have to be perfect since it's centered off the pilot. I've redrilled dozens of them under the rig with a step bit :laughing:

I kinda like having the cv flange with at least 1 other set of holes drilled since it makes bumming a driveshaft on the trail easier.
Yes drilling it to another pattern is an easy option. My truck lives at my buddies shop about an hour and twenty minutes away so when I get out there I’m trying to get as much done as possible. I am going to swap the flange just to save time. I can always drill another pattern into it later. I’m just trying to get back on the trail as soon as I can. I have borrowed driveshafts from my friends before, I am definitely more prepared with spares these days. Most of my friends are going away from Toyotas to get into buggy’s.
 
I worked on the truck last weekend and tackled some small projects. The drivetrain is complete minus the passenger side drive flanges (so I can still roll it around) and the tranny and t- case shifters. Plumbing is very close I have a couple flares on the brake lines that leak. One of my friends loaned me a nicer flaring tool so I should be able to button that up pretty quick. Once the plumbing is done I’ll move onto wiring.
 
Made a junkyard run today. I pulled some fuse/relay boxes out of a Crown Vic. One car had the motor out so I tried to save as much OEM wire as I could. The second one was in better shape but the car was pretty complete so I just chopped it.
 

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I worked on the truck this weekend, we got a lot done! We started patching in the interior sheet metal so it has a cab again! A couple of the homies really put in some work this weekend I can’t thank them enough for all the help!
 

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