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Operation: Slug Nutz

i mean aside from the axles this is pretty low on breaking the bank. lots of lathe work it looks like, but still low on the $$ when you think about 14 bolt steer axles. and it an toy. your gonna get this thing bond in somewhere and snap the crank... because its not gonna be the axles or the stock toyota u joints.... hahahah
 
i mean aside from the axles this is pretty low on breaking the bank. lots of lathe work it looks like, but still low on the $$ when you think about 14 bolt steer axles. and it an toy. your gonna get this thing bond in somewhere and snap the crank... because its not gonna be the axles or the stock toyota u joints.... hahahah
It’s looks low budget lol There was a lot of hidden cost and time into those housings. I definitely could not have done it without all of the help from my friends and the tools they have. There is still a lot of money to spend on those axles that I’ll be posting soon. It should be pretty durable, later as funds allow I’ll probably buy a spare stub shaft and maybe a spare u joint. I will be running Toyota drive shafts. That will probably be the fuse.
 
The next step was to use the wheel stud jig on the unit bearings to mark the 8x6.5” lug pattern before we removed the factory wheel studs. We needed to remove the factory wheel studs to bore the unit bearing for the 35 spline stub shafts. After boring we drilled the unit bearings and pressed in new wheel studs. We also needed to drill the brake rotors as well.
 

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Next was to shave the rear 14 Bolt. I went with the Ballistic Fab shave kit. Then I threw the knuckles on to start mocking up the steering.
 

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Next was to shave the rear 14 Bolt. I went with the Ballistic Fab shave kit. Then I threw the knuckles on to start mocking up the steering.
the best part of doing the shave kit is if you dont like how the first one turned out, or your cut was not strait enough, or you had to grind too much you get the opportunity to do it a second time. :lmao::beer::beer:
 
Shaving 14 Bolts…Well here’s a good story :laughing: So The “front” 14 Bolt already had a shave, 5.38’s and was welded so I just left it alone. It doesn’t have the shaved ring gear but I’m not worried about that much clearance to redo it. The “rear” is the one I shaved and also needed to machine the ring gear. Btw carbide sawzall blades are awesome! So I marked the cut by putting the diff cover on and then according to the instructions, you have to cut a few degrees off the face to taper it off. I used a digital angle cube to set the degrees and just went for it with the carbide blade hoping I wouldn’t have to grind much. I actually cut off too much, we had to make a filler plate out of ar400 plate on the plasma table. Then my buddy went to machine the ring gear on the lathe and that didn’t go well either. As I turns out, gears are pretty hard, he burned up a bunch of cutting heads trying to take it down and gave up. In the instructions, they specify a certain cutting head that you need to use, so I looked them up, and it turns out they’re quite pricey. That kind of put me in a dilemma. I couldn’t return the gears that I already started to machine to then just buy machined gears from Ballistic, the cutting heads were kind of expensive and I didn’t have the time to send my gears to Ballistic to have them machined because I wanted to make it to KOH 2023 with the rig. So, my buddy hit me up one night and goes what do you think about grinding your gear down with an angle grinder? And I was like no, I can do some janky shit but I don’t think I can do that. He sends me a YouTube video of someone doing it and it looks pretty easy! One problem, I already shaved my housing…The video shows them spinning it in the housing. So my buddy was like well you have another 14 Bolt you know what you need to do. So I pulled the front apart then I spent 12-14 hours grinding that ring gear… I started out really optimistic and I was like hey this seems like it’s going really well to, F*** this thing. I would never do this again, please do not follow in my path, just have your gear machined or purchase it machined…
 
Shaving 14 Bolts…Well here’s a good story :laughing: So The “front” 14 Bolt already had a shave, 5.38’s and was welded so I just left it alone. It doesn’t have the shaved ring gear but I’m not worried about that much clearance to redo it. The “rear” is the one I shaved and also needed to machine the ring gear. Btw carbide sawzall blades are awesome! So I marked the cut by putting the diff cover on and then according to the instructions, you have to cut a few degrees off the face to taper it off. I used a digital angle cube to set the degrees and just went for it with the carbide blade hoping I wouldn’t have to grind much. I actually cut off too much, we had to make a filler plate out of ar400 plate on the plasma table. Then my buddy went to machine the ring gear on the lathe and that didn’t go well either. As I turns out, gears are pretty hard, he burned up a bunch of cutting heads trying to take it down and gave up. In the instructions, they specify a certain cutting head that you need to use, so I looked them up, and it turns out they’re quite pricey. That kind of put me in a dilemma. I couldn’t return the gears that I already started to machine to then just buy machined gears from Ballistic, the cutting heads were kind of expensive and I didn’t have the time to send my gears to Ballistic to have them machined because I wanted to make it to KOH 2023 with the rig. So, my buddy hit me up one night and goes what do you think about grinding your gear down with an angle grinder? And I was like no, I can do some janky shit but I don’t think I can do that. He sends me a YouTube video of someone doing it and it looks pretty easy! One problem, I already shaved my housing…The video shows them spinning it in the housing. So my buddy was like well you have another 14 Bolt you know what you need to do. So I pulled the front apart then I spent 12-14 hours grinding that ring gear… I started out really optimistic and I was like hey this seems like it’s going really well to, F*** this thing. I would never do this again, please do not follow in my path, just have your gear machined or purchase it machined…

Should have just used the grinder with the gear on the lathe. I've done it a bunch of times when trying to "turn" hard stuff. But I can also see how some people may not want grinder dust on or around their lathe.
 
i would have used a grinder also. i watched one of them bleeping jeep vids where chubby chaser did it. and that's the way i would do it also. good info to know for sure.
 
Should have just used the grinder with the gear on the lathe. I've done it a bunch of times when trying to "turn" hard stuff. But I can also see how some people may not want grinder dust on or around their lathe.
That was an option, but like you said, I didn’t want to get that much dust around the lathe and make that much dust in the shop that it is in.
 
i would have used a grinder also. i watched one of them bleeping jeep vids where chubby chaser did it. and that's the way i would do it also. good info to know for sure.
That sounds familiar, that might be the video I watched
 
its such a slippery slope. if i go the 14 bolt route i was only planning on doing the small shave. basically eliminates one bolt. 13 bolt cover now. not getting into the ring gear issues. had no idea the gears would be so damn hard though. thats crazy...
 
It was time to drag the truck out. It had been sitting in the bone pile for a while with the tarp shredded and blown off
 

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its such a slippery slope. if i go the 14 bolt route i was only planning on doing the small shave. basically eliminates one bolt. 13 bolt cover now. not getting into the ring gear issues. had no idea the gears would be so damn hard though. thats crazy...

Honestly, when you start reading about issues with shaving them. You should just cut the lip off and call it good. Hopefully op has better luck than most.
 
Honestly, when you start reading about issues with shaving them. You should just cut the lip off and call it good. Hopefully op has better luck than most.
I haven’t heard of any issues with the shaved 14 Bolts but I haven’t been on an off-road forum since Pirate4x4 died. What type of issues are people having? I’m planning on putting that hurt to this thing so if there’s a weakness, I’m going to find it. I’m trying to keep up with all my buggy friends and rear-steer buggy friends without a buggy budget
 
I haven’t heard of any issues with the shaved 14 Bolts but I haven’t been on an off-road forum since Pirate4x4 died. What type of issues are people having? I’m planning on putting that hurt to this thing so if there’s a weakness, I’m going to find it. I’m trying to keep up with all my buggy friends and rear-steer buggy friends without a buggy budget

Leaking is pretty common and the welds cracking on the full shave with guys who beat on them hard. Never seen any of it personally, besides some leaks.

Seems like the trend is definitely going back to just trimming the lip and calling it good.

Chances are you'll be fine.
 
Leaking is pretty common and the welds cracking on the full shave with guys who beat on them hard. Never seen any of it personally, besides some leaks.

Seems like the trend is definitely going back to just trimming the lip and calling it good.

Chances are you'll be fine.
Oh man you scared me, I thought we were talking about ring gear failures. I don’t think this thing has a fighting chance of holding oil in it :lmao: if the bottom falls off, I’m packing it full of grease and covering it with a trash bag and tape to finish the trip. The diff cover is going to leak as soon as I bang a rock pretty good. But it’ll probably leak before it even sees a trail from the axle seals and not the axle seals themselves, It’ll be the O-rings that hold the seal housings in. A lot of race car guys JB Weld the seal housings into their axles, but then it makes it hard to change the seals themselves, so I was going to give it a shot with O-rings first before I made that choice
 
Oh man you scared me, I thought we were talking about ring gear failures. I don’t think this thing has a fighting chance of holding oil in it :lmao: if the bottom falls off, I’m packing it full of grease and covering it with a trash bag and tape to finish the trip. The diff cover is going to leak as soon as I bang a rock pretty good. But it’ll probably leak before it even sees a trail from the axle seals and not the axle seals themselves, It’ll be the O-rings that hold the seal housings in. A lot of race car guys JB Weld the seal housings into their axles, but then it makes it hard to change the seals themselves, so I was going to give it a shot with O-rings first before I made that choice

Nah, it's pretty tough to tear up a 14b, that ~1/4" you shaved off is outside the wear pattern anyway. I'm not sure it affects strength?
 
Nah, it's pretty tough to tear up a 14b, that ~1/4" you shaved off is outside the wear pattern anyway. I'm not sure it affects strength?
I’ve seen some dirty 14 bolts put up with some abuse. That’s why I chose to run 14 bolts. I’m sure that it loses a little bit of strength and it probably doesn’t sling oil the same which it doesn’t with an aftermarket cover anyways. But in this application I’m not worried about it. Nothing is invincible though
 
It was time to make the truck a roller! We mocked up some steering before we put the axles under the truck. One thing you will notice is I am running tie rods. I am going to be running single ended rams.
 

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The next step was to do some tube work and mount the fuel cell. I had a basic tube frame built that was the same width as the leaf springs. We wanted to sink the fuel cell into the bed to give a lower center of gravity and save some room for storage. We decided to narrow the tube frame to the width of the fuel cell. One of my friends designed the fuel cell mount and printed it out for me!
 

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any updates or trip reports?
I put the bed on and I have done a little bit of tube work. mocked up the transfer cases but I need to make a custom mount. I’m trying to run a flat belly and I think we might be able to accomplish it. I have been slowly collecting parts but I have a project taking priority over this for now. But I’m hoping to get cranking on it again soon!
 

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Another small project was getting the fuel pump set up. I’m running a stock Toyota fuel pump. I didn’t want to over complicate something simple and I like stock parts for availability at auto part stores. It just so happens the stock fuel pump and bracket fits perfectly in the fuel cell I’m running which is an RCI 22 gallon.
 

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