OE Electric Parking Brake bible: We're looking at different rotors, add on parking brakes and also integrated electric parking brakes.

[Mieser]

Toyota Tacoma rotors would have allowed this to work inside of a 15" wheel. I updated the spreadsheet.

It depends what you are working with for an axle end. The F150 factory caliper stand is quite large and can foul if the rotor is too small.

The project I was working on used 17" wheels so a slightly larger rotor wasn't a huge deal. It was still very tight on the full float axle end cup I was working with. I didn't have a lot of extra space.

Oh....and there are at least two different F150 EEbrake caliper stands in similar years. I ended getting one of each style the first time around.

 

[Jeffh555]

If you lock up your rear axles and continue to drive on your front axles, you will need something to differentiate the power between your front and rear axle. Differential, or front and rear drive shaft disconnects, or an "American" style tcase. Sorry for being too vague for your royal higness.

You need to either be able to disconnect your rear drive OR unlock your rear differential to make rear cutting breaks effective.

If you can't disconnect your rear drive, but you unlock your rear axle, and drag the inside rear brake, it will make you turn tighter and hold a line better. I haven't tried it yet, but that's what the internet tells me, and it's on my to-do list (I need to swap the Grizzly locker for an ARB to make it happen).

I am also curious if anyone is using these as cutting brakes. I was planning to plumb in cutting brakes, but I like this more.

 

[Rnuovrcj5]

I’ve been doing some digging on the electric only calipers. I’ve seen the Pantera controller mentioned in here already. I found these ones too that appear to be the same thing. No idea on how legit the company is though.

Parking Brake Controller for Tesla / Brembo Model S & 3

These sweet Tesla / Brembo Electric Parking Brake Controllers are manufactured right here in Pennsylvania. They have been tested on Model 3 and Model S, but should also theoretically work with Model X and Model Y. When the push-button is pressed to SET, the calipers close until a specific...

amprevolt.com

After seeing the YouTube video posted earlier, I’m kinda leaning towards wiring them like he did and just engaging/disengaging by sound. Another thought I had was if you can program a switchpros panel to apply power for a length of time. It’d be pretty slick to hit the button and have it run for 3 seconds(or whatever it needs to be).

I’m fairly certain the connector for the electric calipers is a Aptiv 54200409 (formerly Delphi). I don’t have calipers or connectors in hand to verify this though. There’s several eBay listings with the plugs for about $30 but Waytek has them for under $2.

Wire Repair Connector Rear Parking Brake Caliper- Tesla Model S/X 2012-2020 | eBay

This is for 1 repair connector for rear parking brake caliper on 2012-2020 Tesla Model S / X. This is for one connector wire 4 wire repair pins. Caliber motor in picture NOT included. Great if your connector is cracked, broken or dry rotted.

www.ebay.com

https://www.waytekwire.com/product/aptiv-54200409-apex-2-8-sealed-4-way

 

[Mieser]

I’ve been doing some digging on the electric only calipers. I’ve seen the Pantera controller mentioned in here already. I found these ones too that appear to be the same thing. No idea on how legit the company is though.

Parking Brake Controller for Tesla / Brembo Model S & 3

These sweet Tesla / Brembo Electric Parking Brake Controllers are manufactured right here in Pennsylvania. They have been tested on Model 3 and Model S, but should also theoretically work with Model X and Model Y. When the push-button is pressed to SET, the calipers close until a specific...

amprevolt.com

After seeing the YouTube video posted earlier, I’m kinda leaning towards wiring them like he did and just engaging/disengaging by sound. Another thought I had was if you can program a switchpros panel to apply power for a length of time. It’d be pretty slick to hit the button and have it run for 3 seconds(or whatever it needs to be).

I’m fairly certain the connector for the electric calipers is a Aptiv 54200409 (formerly Delphi). I don’t have calipers or connectors in hand to verify this though. There’s several eBay listings with the plugs for about $30 but Waytek has them for under $2.

Wire Repair Connector Rear Parking Brake Caliper- Tesla Model S/X 2012-2020 | eBay

This is for 1 repair connector for rear parking brake caliper on 2012-2020 Tesla Model S / X. This is for one connector wire 4 wire repair pins. Caliber motor in picture NOT included. Great if your connector is cracked, broken or dry rotted.

www.ebay.com

https://www.waytekwire.com/product/aptiv-54200409-apex-2-8-sealed-4-way

The factory systems use a current sensing circuit in the clamp direction, and a timer circuit in the open direction. In clamping they are looking for a current spike from the motor of X amps and then they shut off the circuit. You can vary clamping force by changing that amperage. In the open direction you only want to run the motor long enough to get the rod away from the back of the piston a comfortable amount. This decreases the activation time over time as the pads wear down. The only real 'gotcha' with these calipers is that you always need more current available in the 'open' direction than the clamping direction to overcome the motor stall and initial friction in the gearbox.

Once you play with these caliper for more than 10 minutes, it is very easy to control them with a DPDT momentary switch. If you want to get fancy, use a thermal reset breaker or polyfuse in the clamping direction, then a 'full power' normal fuse in the open direction to protect the entire system.

A micro-controller would be fun to play with for some things, but really isn't needed.

 

[Jeffh555]

You need to either be able to disconnect your rear drive OR unlock your rear differential to make rear cutting breaks effective.

If you can't disconnect your rear drive, but you unlock your rear axle, and drag the inside rear brake, it will make you turn tighter and hold a line better. I haven't tried it yet, but that's what the internet tells me, and it's on my to-do list (I need to swap the Grizzly locker for an ARB to make it happen).

I am also curious if anyone is using these as cutting brakes. I was planning to plumb in cutting brakes, but I like this more.

Just saw this on the IG and thought it was relevant. As far as I know Broncos don’t have a way to disconnect the rear axle from the t-case.

 

[YJLOPES]

Brown Santa brought me the Tesla caliper today.

They measure ~6 9/16" from the pad to the end of the motor, for whoever wanted that info. That is with the piston completely retracted.

 

[YJLOPES]

I ran the motor in and out with some jumper wires to make sure they worked, all good there so I parked them in the fully retracted position. I measured the gap between the pads and got 1.165" on one and 1.180" on the other.

I need them to open up for a 1.5" rotor, so I split them apart to study how that might go. 2 M10-1.50 bolts hold them together.

The 2 pins that the pads float on are fixed in the outboard half. I haven't studied how to get them out but I'm not sure I need to stretch them based on what I see so far. They have a little slop in the OEM configuration. it doesn't seem like they are more sloppy when I open it where I need it. In the pic below you can see a spring that I assume is to prevent rattling. It isn't long enough to accommodate the spacer I'm going to make.

For S&G's, I put it on the rotor along with the 2015 rear F250 caliper on the bracket I made for it yesterday.

I think I can make it all fit pretty nicely. Not sure if it will work, but it looks like it will fit.

 

[Rnuovrcj5]

Brown Santa brought me the Tesla caliper today.

They measure ~6 9/16" from the pad to the end of the motor, for whoever wanted that info. That is with the piston completely retracted.

Thanks, I went ahead and ordered a pair of them from that EV-West link. I asked them about getting the wiring plugs for them and they aimed me towards the Pantera controller guy. I’m going to hold off on that until the Delphi plugs I bought show up and I can confirm if they’re the correct ones or not.

 

[arse_sidewards]

You gotta split the fucking caliper to change the pads? Fuck that.

I like that the F250 rear caliper is cast and drilled for bleeders to be used on either side and in just about any orientation. Boat trailers have only been like that for about 25yr now.

 

[YJLOPES]

You gotta split the fucking caliper to change the pads? Fuck that.

Yeah, that's a big concern of mine, considering all of the PARKING brake pads and shoes I've changed over the years. It is especially problematic on these calipers since I can UNPLUG them, take them off of the axle, and split them on the bench. If changing pads on these calipers takes more than 15 minutes once you have the wheel off then you're an idiot. If that maintenance concern stops you from using these, there are a lot of other obstacles on the way that would have shut it down way before you have to change pads.

 

[06h3]

Yeah, and the maintenance on a parking brake pad is pretty minimal. I’m sure they will last 2-4x longer then your actual stopping brake pad

 

[arse_sidewards]

Yeah, that's a big concern of mine, considering all of the PARKING brake pads and shoes I've changed over the years. It is especially problematic on these calipers since I can UNPLUG them, take them off of the axle, and split them on the bench. If changing pads on these calipers takes more than 15 minutes once you have the wheel off then you're an idiot. If that maintenance concern stops you from using these, there are a lot of other obstacles on the way that would have shut it down way before you have to change pads.

Think a few steps ahead.

It runs the same pad for 10yr and then when you do eventually have to touch it it turns into a shitshow with siezed pins, beating the halves apart and whatnot.

This is why old school drums are so trouble free. The park brake is the service brake.

 

[tsomctl]

This is why old school drums are so trouble free. The park brake is the service brake.

I've owned about 5 old Toyotas. I've never owned one with a working parking brake. And this is in rust free California.

 

[Rnuovrcj5]

I doubt that the parking brake pads would ever need to be changed unless something goes wrong like the caliper sticking. All they should be doing is clamping down on the rotor to hold it in place. I think as long as the pins are greased up so the caliper can move freely that there should be next to no wear on the pads.

 

[Rangerrod]

I’m getting ready to completely rewire my rig so I’m going to incorporate the relays for electric parking brakes now. Going to use a switch pod to fire this. Rated for 10 amps and it’s smaller and easier to wire than a few relays.

 

[Jeffh555]

I’m getting ready to completely rewire my rig so I’m going to incorporate the relays for electric parking brakes now. Going to use a switch pod to fire this. Rated for 10 amps and it’s smaller and easier to wire than a few relays.

That's cool. Link for anyone curious:

12V 10Amp Forward and Reverse Relay Module for Motor / Linear Actuator, Reversing Relay Module

12V 10Amp Forward and Reverse Relay Module for Motor / Linear Actuator, Reversing Relay Module

czh-labs.com

When you say switch pod, do you mean SwitchPro?

Is your plan to use a separate momentary switch for each direction?

I'd like to be able to use a lighted on-off switch, so there's an indicator that turns on when I have it engaged. Turn switch on, run until hits X current limit. Turn switch off, runs back Y time. Haven't given much thought on how to make that happen without buying two of the Pantera controllers (because cutting brakes).

 

[Gumbybronco]

Brown Santa brought me the Tesla caliper today.

They measure ~6 9/16" from the pad to the end of the motor, for whoever wanted that info. That is with the piston completely retracted.

Those look good and the price is good.
I just ordered the calipers.

 

[Rangerrod]

That's cool. Link for anyone curious:

12V 10Amp Forward and Reverse Relay Module for Motor / Linear Actuator, Reversing Relay Module

12V 10Amp Forward and Reverse Relay Module for Motor / Linear Actuator, Reversing Relay Module

czh-labs.com

When you say switch pod, do you mean SwitchPro?

Is your plan to use a separate momentary switch for each direction?

Yes and yes. I have electric parking brakes on my daily I have concerns about not hearing them actuate. Still going to run power through a relay triggered from brake switch. Just using switch panel to run the forward/reversing relay you linked.

Right now I have a ball valve to retain pressure from the master and it’s obvious when they’re engaged. Going electric just to add some redundancy to my system.

 

[Rnuovrcj5]

That's cool. Link for anyone curious:

12V 10Amp Forward and Reverse Relay Module for Motor / Linear Actuator, Reversing Relay Module

12V 10Amp Forward and Reverse Relay Module for Motor / Linear Actuator, Reversing Relay Module

czh-labs.com

When you say switch pod, do you mean SwitchPro?

Is your plan to use a separate momentary switch for each direction?

I'd like to be able to use a lighted on-off switch, so there's an indicator that turns on when I have it engaged. Turn switch on, run until hits X current limit. Turn switch off, runs back Y time. Haven't given much thought on how to make that happen without buying two of the Pantera controllers (because cutting brakes).

You could get creative with the wiring and use some diodes to run “cutting brake” switches along with the Pantera controller. Might be the best of both worlds.

 

[Skinny]

Yeah, that's a big concern of mine, considering all of the PARKING brake pads and shoes I've changed over the years. It is especially problematic on these calipers since I can UNPLUG them, take them off of the axle, and split them on the bench. If changing pads on these calipers takes more than 15 minutes once you have the wheel off then you're an idiot. If that maintenance concern stops you from using these, there are a lot of other obstacles on the way that would have shut it down way before you have to change pads.

Holy shit...nice investigating on this one! I am guessing since this axle is on a bench you won't know if it holds the truck good enough for awhile?

Also I agree, if you can't remove a caliper and split it to change a parking brake pad which will most likely never wear out you are in the wrong sport.

 

[AgitatedPancake]

I’m liking those electric only calipers, I may have to grab a pair with the similar intent as you guys, to avoid fussing with the current brake configuration, just add ebrake capability.

Also as far as the pad swap conversation, it looks like there’s nothing stopping you from pulling the two caliper bridge bolts and splitting the caliper in situ on the axle, no need to even pull it off the axle. IF you ever need to swap them in the first place lol

 

[YJLOPES]

Think a few steps ahead.

It runs the same pad for 10yr and then when you do eventually have to touch it it turns into a shitshow with siezed pins, beating the halves apart and whatnot.

This is why old school drums are so trouble free. The park brake is the service brake.

I always think a few steps ahead. I've been taking care of old equipment my whole life. You just seem to thrive on making a mountain out of some bullshit mole hill so you can make another post. Every now and then you spew some really wise shit, but like 90% of what you post, this ain't it.

 

[FordFascist]

I ran the motor in and out with some jumper wires to make sure they worked, all good there so I parked them in the fully retracted position. I measured the gap between the pads and got 1.165" on one and 1.180" on the other.
I need them to open up for a 1.5" rotor, so I split them apart to study how that might go. 2 M10-1.50 bolts hold them together.

The 2 pins that the pads float on are fixed in the outboard half. I haven't studied how to get them out but I'm not sure I need to stretch them based on what I see so far. They have a little slop in the OEM configuration. it doesn't seem like they are more sloppy when I open it where I need it. In the pic below you can see a spring that I assume is to prevent rattling. It isn't long enough to accommodate the spacer I'm going to make.


For S&G's, I put it on the rotor along with the 2015 rear F250 caliper on the bracket I made for it yesterday.


I think I can make it all fit pretty nicely. Not sure if it will work, but it looks like it will fit.

Thanks for the update. It looks like the pins are just a slight interference fit from the YouTube research I've done.

Are you going to build .250 steel spacers and call it a day? What source are you using for the plugs?

I've also received my F150 calipers and am playing around with those. So far it's about 10 amps to bottom this out. I need to mock it up on the rear of my EB to get a measurement.

Next adventure is an Arduino with an H-bridge and a Hall Effect current sensor.

 

[Grendel]

Thanks for the update. It looks like the pins are just a slight interference fit from the YouTube research I've done.

Are you going to build .250 steel spacers and call it a day? What source are you using for the plugs?

I've also received my F150 calipers and am playing around with those. So far it's about 10 amps to bottom this out. I need to mock it up on the rear of my EB to get a measurement.

Next adventure is an Arduino with an H-bridge and a Hall Effect current sensor.

I am thinking these, with the Caddy rotors on my 14B and these with Dodge Ram rotors on my D60-2.

 

[06h3]

I’m using 2002 Chevy 2500 AAM 10.5 (new school 14b) rotors on my Eaton HO72 for a slip on disc brake kit and I see my rotors are 1.14in new. The calipers are just barely bigger than that (1.16 and 1.18 I saw?) I’ll order up a set soon. I have line locks on the front and they work awesome but I still fear a brake line issue and then I’m fucked.

 

[Gumbybronco]

I’m using 2002 Chevy 2500 AAM 10.5 (new school 14b) rotors on my Eaton HO72 for a slip on disc brake kit and I see my rotors are 1.14in new. The calipers are just barely bigger than that (1.16 and 1.18 I saw?) I’ll order up a set soon. I have line locks on the front and they work awesome but I still fear a brake line issue and then I’m fucked.

Do you have a build thread for adapting the brakes?

 

[Lbhsbz]

Yeah, that's a big concern of mine, considering all of the PARKING brake pads and shoes I've changed over the years. It is especially problematic on these calipers since I can UNPLUG them, take them off of the axle, and split them on the bench. If changing pads on these calipers takes more than 15 minutes once you have the wheel off then you're an idiot. If that maintenance concern stops you from using these, there are a lot of other obstacles on the way that would have shut it down way before you have to change pads.

The pins likely knock out from the inboard side....like most calipers that use pins to retain the pads.

Also consider, it's a parking brake. It's not like you'll ever wear out the pads if it's used as a parking brake.

 

[06h3]

Do you have a build thread for adapting the brakes?

I have a build thread. Idk if I went into detail on the disc conversion. Eatons can use a regular 14b disc conversion setup. I opted for slip on rotors which required me to use weld on brackets and I had to section and make the bracket about 1/2in taller

 

[gubni]

I think the original question was for a better parking brake than the original Eldorado calipers. The original calipers have a relatively small piston. What about our new heavy duty ebrake calipers? They have an 80mm piston like the JB7 calipers. The link is below.

Heavy Duty Brake Caliper Kit with Emergency Brake | JB7 Fit

 

[Grendel]

I think the original question was for a better parking brake than the original Eldorado calipers. The original calipers have a relatively small piston. What about our new heavy duty ebrake calipers? They have an 80mm piston like the JB7 calipers. The link is below.

Heavy Duty Brake Caliper Kit with Emergency Brake | JB7 Fit

Sorry man, I think this thread is about electric parking brakes.

I think it originally was hydraulic calipers, with electric park brakes, but others went with 2 calipers.