OBS upgradification

[MuntCuffin]

yeah, let me get the part number. Itll be tonight, under semis for the next few hours.

Ford dealers sell them individually. Ford online retailers sell them as a pair. Fuckin crooks.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

I'll order them online then and buy a pair

 

[MuntCuffin]

5c3z-3b203-ba

5C3Z-3B203-BA 5C3Z3B203BA Genuine Ford Part

Ford part # 5C3Z-3B203-BA 5C3Z3B203BA, Base part # 3B203, $69.69 online at FordPartsGiant.com. Wholesale-priced and fast-delivered Ford parts Insulator - Front Suspension Tie Bar.

www.fordpartsgiant.com

I bought 2 from the local dealer, then "2" from this place.

I know for a fact that Ford parts giant sells em 2 per box. So now I got 6 damn bushings...and probably the same amount of the smaller wrong ones, and a pair of the radius arm bushings that I'm not gonna use. Pissing money into the wind

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

5c3z-3b203-ba

5C3Z-3B203-BA 5C3Z3B203BA Genuine Ford Part

Ford part # 5C3Z-3B203-BA 5C3Z3B203BA, Base part # 3B203, $69.69 online at FordPartsGiant.com. Wholesale-priced and fast-delivered Ford parts Insulator - Front Suspension Tie Bar.

www.fordpartsgiant.com

I bought 2 from the local dealer, then "2" from this place.

I know for a fact that Ford parts giant sells em 2 per box. So now I got 6 damn bushings...and probably the same amount of the smaller wrong ones, and a pair of the radius arm bushings that I'm not gonna use. Pissing money into the wind

Well, the axle doesn't use 704 u joints, but I really want to know what axle does. Those ujoints are beefy as all get out.
It appears to use Spicer 553/4 u joints (greasable or non greaseable)


More stuff to go back

 

[MuntCuffin]

Well, the axle doesn't use 704 u joints, but I really want to know what axle does. Those ujoints are beefy as all get out.
It appears to use Spicer 553/4 u joints (greasable or non greaseable)


More stuff to go back

I think the super 60 does. Did think link come across as a u joints? Should have been the axle bushing.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

I think the super 60 does. Did think link come across as a u joints? Should have been the axle bushing.

That link is correct - I was rambling about unrelated axle parts

Ordered 2x from your link, and the parts shipped already. I'm hoping I can install the bushings with my press and a freezer the day after I get them.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Almost done with getting the knuckles back on.

Question for the people who say I don't need to replace the axle/knuckle seals: How do I know when the axles are in the correct position realtive to the knuckles? All the youtube videos I've watched, people are replacing the seals and using the fancy tool to set everything

My plan is to reuse the old seals, simply to keep the axle in the center of the hub so it's lined up with with the lockout. If I want to use 4wd, I'll just manually lock the hubs. So, how do I throw the axle is in the correct position




also, not a huge fan of the spicer upper ball joints. They seem to pale in comparison to the TTX lowers I used. We'll see how they hold up.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Alright, what the fuck am I doing wrong?

Installation sequence is lower to 35-44 ftlbs. Upper to 69ftlbs, Lower to 150 ftlbs.

The locking dimples on these locknuts are so tight, I'm afraid of rounding out the hex in the end of the shaft. 18" breaker bar on the crows foot, and I'm well past 40 ftlbs just trying to make contact with the mount.

In the pictures, axle is rotated 90° for ease of picture taking.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Here's the other side, you can see how far the threads are engaged before it starts getting fucking tight.

I know I'm not a strongman, but I should be able to turn this with a ratchet at this point.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Those are some retarded looking nuts. Is the taper already seated to the point you can use an impact gun and swivel to tighten it the rest of the way?

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Those are some retarded looking nuts. Is the taper already seated to the point you can use an impact gun and swivel to tighten it the rest of the way?

I don't think so.

On the first one, definitely not. The second one, I put a clamp from the bottom of the knuckle to the top of the C, but I'm pretty sure it'll just spin in the taper.

I'm going to try and back off the first one and clean the threads out. I wonder if I should buy a tap and pre-tap the locknut

Since you didn't call me retarded. I'm feeling a little better about my difficulty

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I don't think so.

On the first one, definitely not. The second one, I put a clamp from the bottom of the knuckle to the top of the C, but I'm pretty sure it'll just spin in the taper.

I'm going to try and back off the first one and clean the threads out. I wonder if I should buy a tap and pre-tap the locknut

Since you didn't call me retarded. I'm feeling a little better about my difficulty

I get wanting a lock nut on there but those are extreme. I'd run a tap through it and use a bit of blue or red locktite on it to keep it there. Hell, you could just stake the threads and call it good for that matter.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

I get wanting a lock nut on there but those are extreme. I'd run a tap through it and use a bit of blue or red locktite on it to keep it there. Hell, you could just stake the threads and call it good for that matter.

I've had pretty good luck with Mevotech stuff (minus the radius arm bushings discussed previously), but I've never run into this much difficulty installing ball joints before

Time to search for a tap, I guess.


Looks like a 7/8"-14 pitch?

 

[Gdogg]

A few other upgrades for these trucks, use a 2008+ aluminum diff cover, E-locker diff, 6.7 starter upgrade, 38 gallon Bronco tank, 200 amp Mitsubishi alternator it was on the ambulance prep package. SD serpentine belt drive.
I have all those parts for my truck and so far I’ve only did the rear tank. Lol

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

I did finally get the knuckles installed. Had to do some rigging with a floor jack and a strap.

I also tapped out the lock nuts, and added my own locktite

Pics to come.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Test fitting hubs, since I don't have the installation tool for the axle shafts. I'm not using the vacuum hubs, so I didn't replace the knuckle seals. You can see the brass plug I put in the port below.

Here you can see my strap job. I used a spacer from my ball joint kit to avoid crushing the new ball joint.

And, apparently the mevotech joints are tighter than factory, so I had to get a little extra space on the press.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

With the knuckles on, moved on to the brakes, only to find I fucked up the phenolic pistons on the calipers . Ordering some steel pistons, so that's a few more days.


Got my tie rod ends ordered, but I kind of want to wait on the drag link until I have the axle under the truck. My other current dilemma is the pitman arm. Looks like most people just ream out the stock bar, but a lot of the arms I'm seeing for sale are flat. I'll see if I can track down a drop one. Looks like I'm spending more money at Sky's

The track bar setup the sell looks nice, but I'm unsure of the value. I'll have to see if I can reuse what I currently have before dropping that kind of cash

 

[Gdogg]

Now that you guy’s have me interested in doing some upgrades to my OBS I’ve checked out a few YouTube videos. One video was about using a 2005+ steering gear, it looks like a good upgrade to go along with the power steering upgrade.

 

[AKnate]

What's the reason to swap to newer axles?

I had a Dana 80 from an F450 but decided it wasn't worth the work, the 10.25 does fine, least I has for near 30 years.
I do get a bit nervous when loaded (2 cords of wood, so around 9-10k lbs) but my old truck with a 14 bolt handled it fine for many years and 50k+ miles. I killed 1 axle but that was my doing, did the brakes and didn't know I needed to lean the truck to fill the hubs. Once the bit of lube I put on assembly flung off, it killed it.

 

[JR4X]

If you already have 1 ton axles in it, it’s hard to justify.

For me. My C350 already has a BJ D60 and Sterling 10.25. It’s leaf sprung, rides like a brick with no up travel.

I’m entertaining the SD swap to gain rear disc brakes, rear locker, and radius arm coil spring front suspension. Truck already has hydroboost in it so I just need to put the correct master cylinder on for the rear discs.

I can sell my old front axle for a little to recover some dollars.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Got it running, moved it in front of the garage today. Only took batteries and starting lfuid

Gotta pull the step bars, grind the rear hangars that I didn't take off when I did the first swap

Then I should be ready to start swapping this front axle.

start video coming soon

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Injector hat seals are shot, but she runs without leaking too much fuel . I'll probably throw a return kit on it so I can drive it until I get the replacement engine put together. Probably won't drive it far, but maybe to the car wash



edit: is this video not working for anyone else?

 

[JR4X]

Nice stove pipe

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Finally making a little progress.

The 2008 stock 17" rims are TIGHT on 2011 hubs

The part numbers are different between 08 and 11, but I can't see any differences


Maybe I'll upgrade to 18's before buying rubber


Out with the old axle

And in with the new

Not really. But it's close to where it should be.

Getting the old Ballistic Fab radius arm mounts off, and hoping I will be able to center the axle with these fancy Sky Mfg mounts.

After these mounts are on the next steps are

- coil buckets (I have some I already made for the old axle, but I need to make sure they'll still work)

- Panhard/Track bar: Will I be able to modify what I already had or will I have to start from scratch? If I start from scratch, probably go with Sky Mfg again, because their setup replaces the axle end ball joint

- Steering: I just need the stock drag link and a pitman arm drilled to accept a stock superduty drag link.


I really want to get this thing on the springs again - even with my awesome jack stand positioning, I'm a little nervous under there 😂

 

[JR4X]

17” steel wheels have way more clearance than 17” aluminum wheels. At work if you’re going to run aluminum wheels they have to be at least 18’s.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

17” steel wheels have way more clearance than 17” aluminum wheels. At work if you’re going to run aluminum wheels they have to be at least 18’s.

Well that sucks. I actually really like the look of the stock aluminum rims

 

[JR4X]

Well that sucks. I actually really like the look of the stock aluminum rims

Is that brake line touching the wheel? Can you bend it any further away from the wheel? Or can you rotate the banjo so that the whole line stays outside the wheel? Otherwise you can see what you gotta do. My 24 work truck still has 17” steelies on it but if I switch wheels it has to be up to 18’s. The 18’s on my 19 barely barely clear.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Is that brake line touching the wheel? Can you bend it any further away from the wheel? Or can you rotate the banjo so that the whole line stays outside the wheel? Otherwise you can see what you gotta do. My 24 work truck still has 17” steelies on it but if I switch wheels it has to be up to 18’s. The 18’s on my 19 barely barely clear.

That's just the angle - the brake lines are decently clear of the wheel. Let me see if I a better picture - if not, I'll take one later

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Out with the old

In with the new...kind of...

Gonna need to do some clearancing on the brackets I need about another 1/2" of aft movement.

But it looks like I'll be able to keep my old spring mounts.

Will definitely have to redo track bar. But I don't think I can use the Sky mount - I've already cut the shit out of my cradle, and wouldn't get all of the benefit of his mount. I will probably go with his track bar. And modify my frame mount as required.