OBS upgradification

[reptillikus]

Always wondered, Are those dana 80's 37 spline? Does that Dana 70 F use KP 60 knuckles and 35 spline shafts?

Im not positive on those D80s. Could be 35 or 37 spline, and Dana seemingly doesnt have all the old info online anymore. Guess ill have to yank a shaft next im i see one at the junkyard.

The front D70s were 35 spline, low pinion. I know the Inner Cs were beefier than what came on the kingpin Ford D60s, but im not sure if they were Ford or GM style knuckles. Big D is a later model (OBS) Ford, at that point i think Ford was offering them in 4wd with a D60 front.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

What benefit is there to F-Super Duty axles? Disc brake D80 rear vs drum 10.25. Not a ton more beef for the work.
Front is beam axle unless you have a Quigley 4wd, then it's still just a HP D60.

Radius arm/coil spring up front. In '05, the moved the pumpkin in and cut ~12' off the turning radius.

Longer leafs in the back to give a better ride with the same or better weight capacity.

 

[JR4X]

Always wondered, Are those dana 80's 37 spline? Does that Dana 70 F use KP 60 knuckles and 35 spline shafts?

U can see the big beefy bastard under big D

I’m not sure about the D80 question but the D70 is 35 spline. The inner C’s are heavier duty than D60 stuff but I think everything else is the same as D60 except for the 10 hole pattern. It’s weird that Rory’s is a driver side front diff. This 91 is a pass side drop on that 70.

 

[posford]

I’m not sure about the D80 question but the D70 is 35 spline. The inner C’s are heavier duty than D60 stuff but I think everything else is the same as D60 except for the 10 hole pattern. It’s weird that Rory’s is a driver side front diff. This 91 is a pass side drop on that 70.

Whats the transfer case?

 

[JR4X]

Whats the transfer case?

It’s a divorced cast iron case. It looks like an NP205 visually but I don’t know for sure. It’s never been out of the truck.

 

[AKnate]

If it was a 4x4 converted F SD those had Dana 70 front axles. The D80 from one of those is stronger than the 10.25 or 10.5 sterling but in my case the 10.5’s I have are the factory electric locker axles.

Mine had a 10 lug HP D60, but probably was whatever Quigley had available.
Ford didn't make them 4wd till the next body style, 99?

 

[AKnate]

I’m not sure about the D80 question but the D70 is 35 spline. The inner C’s are heavier duty than D60 stuff but I think everything else is the same as D60 except for the 10 hole pattern. It’s weird that Rory’s is a driver side front diff. This 91 is a pass side drop on that 70.

Mine was driver's diff. Was a 98, also have a 97 F350 c&c. Pretty much same trucks from what i remember aside from 10 lug and D80 vs 10.25 rear. E4OD trans and Borg Warner T case.
Not sure if frames were the same. I think so.
Was 16" wheels, so not like 10 lug did much.

Just have the F350 now and a 5500 Dodge

 

[posford]

Mine was driver's diff. Was a 98, also have a 97 F350 c&c. Pretty much same trucks from what i remember aside from 10 lug and D80 vs 10.25 rear. E4OD trans and Borg Warner T case.
Not sure if frames were the same. I think so.
Was 16" wheels, so not like 10 lug did much.

Just have the F350 now and a 5500 Dodge

Frames are a lot beefier under a F Superduty. Spring mounts are castings, not stampings

 

[arse_sidewards]

Im not positive on those D80s. Could be 35 or 37 spline

They're 37 and a bigger splindle and axle shaft flange than all the "D70 and down" stuff (including the Dodge D80. Same for the 3500HD D80.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Frames are a lot beefier under a F Superduty.

Slightly different shape too

 

[JR4X]

Mine had a 10 lug HP D60, but probably was whatever Quigley had available.
Ford didn't make them 4wd till the next body style, 99?

I just saw the question part. I believe that you are correct. That all 4x4 F superduty trucks from 87 to 97 were conversions. The one I shared pictures of the conversion was done by Marmon Herrington.

But F450 and F550 became factory 4x4’s in 99 to current

 

[Tiha]

I just saw the question part. I believe that you are correct. That all 4x4 F superduty trucks from 87 to 97 were conversions. The one I shared pictures of the conversion was done by Marmon Herrington.

But F450 and F550 became factory 4x4’s in 99 to current

The stupid part of all that,

You could buy a 4x4 cab and chassis, and then bolt a box on yourself.

 

[JR4X]

The stupid part of all that,

You could buy a 4x4 cab and chassis, and then bolt a box on yourself.

Yeah, it didn’t really make sense because the horsepower wasn’t there to justify the extra weight capacity. The one I post pics of is a derated 460 ZF 5 speed with 4.88 gears. I had a 1990 F350 460 5 speed cab n chassis with the same wheelbase as that F SD and it weighed more every day of its life with an 11 foot Reading service box, welder, air compressor, oxy acetylene torch, 100 gallons of fluid storage etc and with 4:10s weighing in at 14,000 pounds would smoke that other truck with 4:88’s and weighing a few thousand pounds less in a drag race.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Back to the topic at hand.

Working on the front axle (2011 '250) and I have to ask...


Do ai have to have the vacuum shit in the hub, or can I just use the hubs manually? I really don't want to drop $2200+ on a free spin kit if I don't have to.


I'm fine with manually turning my hubs in the mud

Also, anything I should do besides new ball joints, new hubs, new axle u-joints, new tie rod ends?

Everything's looking ok so far, just a little dirty.

 

[JR4X]

Vacuum shit can go in the trash if the factory hubs still work as intended. I put a vacuum cap on the tee under the hood to keep from having a bad seal or broken hub suck liquid mud into the vacuum line. Learned that the hard way on the 2019 I just recently got out of.

If you have hub issues, throw them away and get the warn hubs for it. The warn hubs delete the vacuum function anyway. The wan hubs still have some pot metal but there is zero plastic. I have broken lots of the ford factory ones because they have some plastic guides and cages that just crunch up.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

Vacuum shit can go in the trash if the factory hubs still work as intended. I put a vacuum cap on the tee under the hood to keep from having a bad seal or broken hub suck liquid mud into the vacuum line. Learned that the hard way on the 2019 I just recently got out of.

If you have hub issues, throw them away and get the warn hubs for it. The warn hubs delete the vacuum function anyway. The wan hubs still have some pot metal but there is zero plastic. I have broken lots of the ford factory ones because they have some plastic guides and cages that just crunch up.

I ordered a non-warn set off Rock Auto, hoping to send them back....then promptly broke a shit ton of the plastic ears taking one of the factory lockouts off

Are the Warn ones really worth the price tag?


Edit: next dumb question, ordering a diff cover from ruffstuff.... do I want the super60 or the 60/70 version?

 

[JR4X]

I ordered a non-warn set off Rock Auto, hoping to send them back....then promptly broke a shit ton of the plastic ears taking one of the factory lockouts off

Are the Warn ones really worth the price tag?

In my opinion, yes because of what you already found with the plastic shit. I have broken two warn hubs though too. For as beefy as the rest of the giant parts on these they sure FAILED on the selectable hub side of things.

Edit: next dumb question, ordering a diff cover from ruffstuff.... do I want the super60 or the 60/70 version?

I can’t answer that one. I haven’t changed away from the factory diff cover yet.

 

[tac1]

Do ai have to have the vacuum shit in the hub, or can I just use the hubs manually? I really don't want to drop $2200+ on a free spin kit if I don't have to.

As mentioned above the warn hubs are pretty nice

Also, anything I should do besides new ball joints, new hubs, new axle u-joints, new tie rod ends?

Not sure how prices have changed in the last few years but 5-6 years ago when I built a bunch of these axle by the time you bought quality new u-joints and the two big seals you were like 60-70% of the price of new oem ford 1550 shafts. Granted I was doing these for other people, not my own labor.

Here are the part numbers, they come with all the seals to install

05-15 Ford F250/350 Left Axle Assembly 10013781 - 1550 Ujoint

Fully assembled left (short) side axle for 2005-2015 Ford F250 and F350. This is the larger u-joint 1550 series direct replacement for 1480 series shafts. Includes: Vacuum Seal- 2023068 Tube S

eastcoastgearsupply.com

05-15 Ford F250/350 Right Axle Assembly 10013778 - 1550 Ujoint

Fully assembled right (long) side axle for 2005-2015 Ford F250 and F350. This is the larger u-joint 1550 series direct replacement for 1480 series shafts. Includes: Vacuum Seal- 2023068 Tube S

eastcoastgearsupply.com

Get the ball joints with the hex in the stem, otherwise they like to spin and are hard to seat. Follow the instruction sheet on torque sequence in the box.

 

[JR4X]

Have any idea what that wms width is?

There's one for sale close to me and I didn't want a full width dually rear, but if it's similar or slightly wider than the stock d60 in my 70 f250 I'd love to get it since it's already 5.13

I don’t remember off the top of my head in a way that I’d bet money on it. But IIRC they are 72” WMS~WMS. A pickup dually 10.25 is 75 ish inches wide. A SRW 10.25 is 68 and CC is between the two. Pickup frames are 37” inches wide while CC frames are 34” inches wide.

Obviously no problem is insurmountable. The problem we ran into trying to put a D80 in a pickup is that when you move the spring perches out to pickup leaf spring width the inner dual tires are too close to the leafs. If memory serves me we could run it that way with the right tires on it but you couldn’t put tire chains on it.

 

[AKnate]

The stupid part of all that,

You could buy a 4x4 cab and chassis, and then bolt a box on yourself.

I'd imagine most folks needing F450 or 550 capacity aren't interested in a tin can truck box vs a service body, dump bed, flat bed, etc.

 

[arse_sidewards]

In my opinion, yes because of what you already found with the plastic shit. I have broken two warn hubs though too. For as beefy as the rest of the giant parts on these they sure FAILED on the selectable hub side of things.

I can’t answer that one. I haven’t changed away from the factory diff cover yet.

I'm surprised you of all people don't run drive slugs.

 

[JR4X]

I'm surprised you of all people don't run drive slugs.

I should. I have yet to see what the fixed hub actually consists of on the passenger side of this truck. I’d be interested in trading the drivers side selectable hub off this thing for someone’s fixed hub so every time I get it back from the oil change shop I dont find out the hard way they unlocked my hub for me. I don’t unlock the hubs unless my inner axle seals leak.

 

[AKnate]

That Redhead steering box worth it?

It's ~$400, with shipping and core shipping probably $750.

Can get reman'd one at Schucks for under $200

Mine is getting worn, have to saw the wheel like I'm in a 1970s trucker movie.

 

[JR4X]

That Redhead steering box worth it?

It's ~$400, with shipping and core shipping probably $750.

Can get reman'd one at Schucks for under $200

Mine is getting worn, have to saw the wheel like I'm in a 1970s trucker movie.

I’ve not yet done a good steering box. Are you absolutely sure your slop is the box and not the tie rods? My C350 has crazy slop but it’s the drag link 100%. When I steer, the DL twists as the pitman arm moves. Turn right, DL wags forward before it rotate any further, then it forces the wheels to steer. Turn left it rotates all the way the other direction and wags rearward before steering tires. Box is nice and tight but the TRE’s are shot.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

That Redhead steering box worth it?

It's ~$400, with shipping and core shipping probably $750.

Can get reman'd one at Schucks for under $200

Mine is getting worn, have to saw the wheel like I'm in a 1970s trucker movie.

I like mine. My box needed to be replaced either way. If I replace it, it'll be a ported red or blue box so I can do hydro assist

 

[AKnate]

I’ve not yet done a good steering box. Are you absolutely sure your slop is the box and not the tie rods? My C350 has crazy slop but it’s the drag link 100%. When I steer, the DL twists as the pitman arm moves. Turn right, DL wags forward before it rotate any further, then it forces the wheels to steer. Turn left it rotates all the way the other direction and wags rearward before steering tires. Box is nice and tight but the TRE’s are shot.

I can move the steering wheel 4-5" back and forth before the pitman arm moves.
The steering shaft was worn and that helped a bunch.

I've definitely driven stuff that's worse but it's annoying.

 

[Pt_Ranger_v8]

I can move the steering wheel 4-5" back and forth before the pitman arm moves.
The steering shaft was worn and that helped a bunch.

I've definitely driven stuff that's worse but it's annoying.

That's about where mine was. It worked, but it was not fun to drive. It was exciting, but not a lot of fun.

 

[JR4X]

I can move the steering wheel 4-5" back and forth before the pitman arm moves.
The steering shaft was worn and that helped a bunch.

I've definitely driven stuff that's worse but it's annoying.

Yeah fuck that! Time for a box.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I should. I have yet to see what the fixed hub actually consists of on the passenger side of this truck. I’d be interested in trading the drivers side selectable hub off this thing for someone’s fixed hub so every time I get it back from the oil change shop I dont find out the hard way they unlocked my hub for me. I don’t unlock the hubs unless my inner axle seals leak.

I'm pretty sure it's basically the "important" bits of the normal hub but with locking parts around them so they can't come out of engagement with each other (instead of parts attached to the handle to make them come out of engagement).

Or that's what I gleaned looking at the comparison pictures someone posted to another form that YOU linked to in the SD60 thread.

 

[JR4X]

I'm pretty sure it's basically the "important" bits of the normal hub but with locking parts around them so they can't come out of engagement with each other (instead of parts attached to the handle to make them come out of engagement).

Or that's what I gleaned looking at the comparison pictures someone posted to another form that YOU linked to in the SD60 thread.

I’ve never held one in my hand so it isn’t real until I have. If it’s still plastic caged it’s not a drive flange it’s weak sauce waiting to fail. And think the only one making real drive flanges for them are Branik.