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OBS F350 brakes

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Someone asked if tou used the 2p oe seal or a 1p.

2p are 1time use. You fuck up on install and have to redo it, new seal.
 
I usually run SKF's Scotseal PlusXL (P/n 34384)

I know it costs a couple bucks more than the National, but I like the construction of it better

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Alternatively, Ford has a 2 piece seal that works pretty good too, and looks more like the Scotseal than the National

 
reptillikus said:
I usually run SKF's Scotseal PlusXL (P/n 34384)

I know it costs a couple bucks more than the National, but I like the construction of it better

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Alternatively, Ford has a 2 piece seal that works pretty good too, and looks more like the Scotseal than the National

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Same

One rig i had to put rtv on spindle surface because kept leaking without, assume was the pitting
 
Does the axle have an oil slinger? Or did someone throw it away?

Not sure Changning your master cylinder is the best option here.

Going to a larger bore will move more fluid, sure, but it will also take more foot pressure to activate the brakes.

Fix the leaky wheel seal and try again.

If the master cylinder is not moving enough fluid to lock and hold the brakes, then you have a wheel cylinder problem or a restriction somewhere like the RABs valve.
 
Tiha said:
Does the axle have an oil slinger? Or did someone throw it away?

Not sure Changning your master cylinder is the best option here.

Going to a larger bore will move more fluid, sure, but it will also take more foot pressure to activate the brakes.

Fix the leaky wheel seal and try again.

If the master cylinder is not moving enough fluid to lock and hold the brakes, then you have a wheel cylinder problem or a restriction somewhere like the RABs valve.
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No oil slingers in the hubs. Had to look up what you were talking about. Looks like it was a change at some point with a different bearing.

BR3992K is the SKF kit. Guess if it leaks again I'll go that route.

Was fixed a few days ago. Have to haul a load today, we'll see how the brakes are.
 
You torquing to 65 ft lbs and backing off 7-8 clicks?

I said above, but i recently went thru 3 of the expensive scotseal XL wheel seals on one until i figured out some minor pitting on the spindle that i had cleaned up with scotchbrite was letting oil through. Put rtv on inside of seal and its been holding since.. I removed it carefully was able to re-use the seal.
 
Levigarrett76 said:
You torquing to 65 ft lbs and backing off 7-8 clicks?

I said above, but i recently went thru 3 of the expensive scotseal XL wheel seals on one until i figured out some minor pitting on the spindle that i had cleaned up with scotchbrite was letting oil through. Put rtv on inside of seal and its been holding since.. I removed it carefully was able to re-use the seal.
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Yes. Spindles are 100%, but I did Scotchbrite the non seal area that was rusty a bit. I put this seal flush with the hub, old one was in maybe 3/16" which is how it was before so I copied it.

I couldn't find any info on depth other than using a special Ford tool.

This one looks to put it flush...

torqueking.com

QT1534 Rear Wheel Seal Installer for 1985-1997 Ford 10.25" Rear Axles

Buy Now QT1534 Rear Wheel Seal Installer for 1985 to 1997 Ford F-250, F-350 single or dual rear wheel trucks with Ford corporate 10.25" rear drive axles.
torqueking.com torqueking.com

Was leaking through the seal when parked best I can tell. Just dripped onto the drum and it carried the gear oil all over the shoes when driven. Nothing else was oily, not even the exposed part of the spindle.
Was a small section of drum with faint stain as well as the inner tire. Truck doesn't move for a month or two at a go, mostly just used for hauling firewood
 
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I can say the scotseal XL gets pushed in all the way

This is the spindle that was leaking, only leaked if parked on angle/hill
9_24_233rd_wheel_seal_3__9b6a29ac7b6a1137081eca954ba8c7941b3b1375.jpg



9_24_233rd_wheel_seal_4__7f3b8ac8c7a6f5b2aab85d5b8c49dfefabcc53b9.jpg
73240388455_04982d6d_c4b7_4296_bc55_4c722f9c540c_f0400a033c54367e77ba56ef1907526985ab9047.jpg

It just pushes in by hand
 
Sounds like you found you leak then.


If you have a collection of bearings and races see if you have one that can flare the edge out a touch.
 
Weird that the seal just slips in. Can you possibly flare the seal or dimple the hub?

Also, I don't see the oil slinger in those pics.
 
Yall getting me confused with AKnate?


Those scotseal XL's are designed to be pushed in fairly easily like that on install, Same seal available and used in class 8 rigs. If you've held one you can see how it works.

I took my oil slinger out after a few seal changes during my fight to get leak to stop, the alignment tabs were falling off and the other side was already missing.
 
AKnate said:
Yes. Spindles are 100%, but I did Scotchbrite the non seal area that was rusty a bit. I put this seal flush with the hub, old one was in maybe 3/16" which is how it was before so I copied it.

I couldn't find any info on depth other than using a special Ford tool.

This one looks to put it flush...

torqueking.com

QT1534 Rear Wheel Seal Installer for 1985-1997 Ford 10.25" Rear Axles

Buy Now QT1534 Rear Wheel Seal Installer for 1985 to 1997 Ford F-250, F-350 single or dual rear wheel trucks with Ford corporate 10.25" rear drive axles.
torqueking.com torqueking.com

Was leaking through the seal when parked best I can tell. Just dripped onto the drum and it carried the gear oil all over the shoes when driven. Nothing else was oily, not even the exposed part of the spindle.
Was a small section of drum with faint stain as well as the inner tire. Truck doesn't move for a month or two at a go, mostly just used for hauling firewood
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reptillikus said:
Yes. Yes I am :laughing:

I work 3rd shift 7 nights a week. It's a miracle I get anything right :laughing:
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I loved the 1500-2300 shift when I worked at a place with 3 shifts.
 
Thread: derailed :laughing:

Levigarrett76 said:
I do not envy that:barf:
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I typically work 12 nights on, 2 off. The war in Ukraine has been good for business, which meant mandatory OT for a while.

AKnate said:
I loved the 1500-2300 shift when I worked at a place with 3 shifts.
Click to expand...

I like 3rd. I get home at 0830 and can work outside in the sun all morning before it gets hot.

To get back on topic: I always set the hub seals flush with the back of the hub.
 
Brakes working ok, hopefully it's not going to leak again.

Have a weird vibration now, worse with the truck empty.
Ran 2 cords into Anchorage, about 120 miles total trip.

Felt sort of like an unbalanced steer tire but not sure. Only thing I did was pull 2 rears off.

I spun the drives at 55ish in the air, nothing seemed off and no shakes.

Have had old drive tires on trucks start coming apart (like 30+ yr old), but these are only from 2011 so not that old. Little bit of cracking but they are BFG Commercial tires, not Ling Longs made from melted down used condoms and dildos.

Hubs felt fine, driver's side a little warmer, but I think i have the brake shoes a click or two too tight so it's slightly dragging.

Hard to set the brakes exactly as it's a limited slip rear.
 
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So oiled shoes were the problem?

I've heard of rubber flex lines collapsing inside so that they would bleed ok, but pressure slammed them closed...
 
total newb said:
This can be sketchy sometimes.

I ran no rear brake limiter on one of my chevys and the rears were insane. But it was a light in the ass street drw.

Did you try bleeding the rears just to verify that the fluid is flowing properly?
Once again on one of my chevys i had a prop valve fail and wouldnt reset just plugging the rear brakes off all together.
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I know I’m replying to an old AF post, was kinda waiting to see what kinda truck this is. If pickup truck with empty pickup box no RABS can be a problem. But I thought everything Nate has is a service truck or flatbed.

I’ve deleted the RABS on two trucks and it only made the brakes better. First one, a brick nose DRW cab&chassis with an 11 foot long reading service bed. I went from having no rear brakes to having just the right amount of rear brake. My Centurion, same thing except I’ve got hydroboost on it. It’s probably a lot more weight balanced than a pickup but I can shower down on the brakes and not skid the rears first. No proportioning valve at all and I’d trust that thing to let just about anyone drive it without a worry.
 
JR4X said:
I know I’m replying to an old AF post, was kinda waiting to see what kinda truck this is. If pickup truck with empty pickup box no RABS can be a problem. But I thought everything Nate has is a service truck or flatbed.

I’ve deleted the RABS on two trucks and it only made the brakes better. First one, a brick nose DRW cab&chassis with an 11 foot long reading service bed. I went from having no rear brakes to having just the right amount of rear brake. My Centurion, same thing except I’ve got hydroboost on it. It’s probably a lot more weight balanced than a pickup but I can shower down on the brakes and not skid the rears first. No proportioning valve at all and I’d trust that thing to let just about anyone drive it without a worry.
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I dont have any of my pics from the build.
Might be able find them on pirate under my old name (trkklr77)

2wd 1970 c20, coil spring rear.

I got it as an srw (c20) with a flat bed on it. Swapped in a c&c 14bff and ditched the bed for a pick bed, tubbed the inners and added cut down stepside fenders.

C&c 14bff are 13x3.5" shoe. Truck prob weighed 4500-4800lbs.

No load valve at all but i also did the govloc mods (both ways) and i slid it a few times with moderate brake grabs on dry asphault.
 
AKnate said:
Have a weird vibration now, worse with the truck empty.
Ran 2 cords into Anchorage, about 120 miles total trip.
Click to expand...
Could it be a drum brake dragging from being too tight?

When drum brakes rub slightly they get hot, heat make them expand. They rub more.

That would certainly cause a vibration. Maybe check them with a heat gun after a short drive? See if both sides are about the same?
 
JR4X said:
I know I’m replying to an old AF post, was kinda waiting to see what kinda truck this is. If pickup truck with empty pickup box no RABS can be a problem. But I thought everything Nate has is a service truck or flatbed.
Click to expand...
Yes, 12ft dump bed, cab and chassis truck.
 
Tiha said:
Could it be a drum brake dragging from being too tight?

When drum brakes rub slightly they get hot, heat make them expand. They rub more.

That would certainly cause a vibration. Maybe check them with a heat gun after a short drive? See if both sides are about the same?
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If it's rubbing it's barely as nothing was hot.
 
AKnate said:
F450 is disc brake
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Actually I think you need the 450 hydroboost unit also because the center to center spacing is a a little bigger on the 450 MC.
You can add a valve that keeps 10psi on the wheel cylinders. The reason you want 10 psi is to keep the cups expanded in the wheel cylinders.

Also E250’s and 350’s had rear disc brakes, those can swapped on F250’s and 350’s without too much trouble. The E series vans used 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern wheels for many years.
 
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