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Newb question. Dana 60 guts from 99-04 to 05+

Winchested

IH Scout SSII
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Member Number
2128
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1,196
Can the carrier and gears direct swap over?

Same bearings, carrier and pinion?

Are inner seals diff?

Friend has a built 99-04 arb etc, we are building a long arm LJ.

Has a rear 67" 14 bolt.

Just wondering if we shoukd save our selves work cutting off old truss before welding on new one.

He thought it was an 05 up. I broke his heart when I said nope it's a 99-04 (brakes and knuckles diff)
 
Should all be the same.

EDIT I'm wrong. See Bebop's post #13. 2017 and up are different.
 
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The one thing to consider is if you need a locking hub Yukon/nitro lockouts aren’t available for 05+ and you can live with 1480 wheel joints I’d keep it. I built a 99-04 because of the hub issue.

Rumor is ecgs is going make an 05+ hub themselves.
 
The one thing to consider is if you need a locking hub Yukon/nitro lockouts aren’t available for 05+ and you can live with 1480 wheel joints I’d keep it. I built a 99-04 because of the hub issue.

Rumor is ecgs is going make an 05+ hub themselves.
How shitty are the Warn hubs for the 05+? I've heard they're okay....but I don't imagine rigs running them are running super hard trails either since they kinda imply street use.
 
Warn makes the factory hubs that have plastic pieces in them for the 05-23 front 60. Warn also makes aftermarket all steel hubs that use 6 bolts to mount them as opposed to 3 on the factory hubs
Somewhere in late 23 to 24 models Ford changed the from axle on 250’s and 350’s to a new 9.25” front axle that I haven’t heard abyone positively ID yet
 
I’ve been running the ‘05 Warns for 3 years and haven’t had an issue. I carry a spare lockout with me just in case.

Been to Moab twice, Sand Hollow twice, Idaho, Phoenix, Colorado, SMOR, and a few trips to the UP with no issues. I have 8000miles of street driving as well
 
Thanks guys we pulled the trigger on a front for $450 complete.

Pick it up int the morning.
 
Warn makes the factory hubs that have plastic pieces in them for the 05-23 front 60. Warn also makes aftermarket all steel hubs that use 6 bolts to mount them as opposed to 3 on the factory hubs
Somewhere in late 23 to 24 models Ford changed the from axle on 250’s and 350’s to a new 9.25” front axle that I haven’t heard abyone positively ID yet
I was thinking of the aftermarket ones...I guess neither hold up well?
 
I’ve been running the ‘05 Warns for 3 years and haven’t had an issue. I carry a spare lockout with me just in case.

Been to Moab twice, Sand Hollow twice, Idaho, Phoenix, Colorado, SMOR, and a few trips to the UP with no issues. I have 8000miles of street driving as well
Aftermarket Warns or the factory?
 
I should also say I'm not a throttle jockey. I like to crawl and will only use throttle when absolutely necessary.

I run 40" stickey Treps with a 4:1 case, a Rubicrawler and 5.13's in a 5300# LJ so the hubs can see some pretty good torque but I'm not beating on them.

I fully expected them to be the weak link in my setup. So far no issues at all.
 
I'm running factory 05 hubs. 3.8L JK on 40" stickies, low horsepower but won't hesitate to wedge the front end in front of a big rock if that's what it takes. Been to JV/Sand Hollow, Rubicon and Fordyce with it multiple times each. Haven't broken one yet, and carry a spare.

RCV makes 300M Hub Gears. I THINK they fit either the factory or warn hubs.
 
RCV makes 300M Hub Gears. I THINK they fit either the factory or warn hubs.
Do you know anyone running them?

Also peck brothers keeps breaking stub axles with aftermarket hubs no issues with the lockouts. But I’ve never seen a set in person confirm they weren’t shit pop metal the old school ones were made
Out of.
 
Do you know anyone running them?

Also peck brothers keeps breaking stub axles with aftermarket hubs no issues with the lockouts. But I’ve never seen a set in person confirm they weren’t shit pop metal the old school ones were made
Out of.
Nope, but everyone I know that wheels hard has drive slugs. There's a thread about them in the Ford section with some people that seem to be running them.

 
careful, in 2017 the R&P and bearings all changed
I stand corrected. Good to know....I take it the 2017s have a bigger than 9.75" ring gear (Maybe the 10" I have been reading about??).
 
I stand corrected. Good to know....I take it the 2017s have a bigger than 9.75" ring gear (Maybe the 10" I have been reading about??).
No. Just a different R&P altogether.

10" stuff is compatible with 99-04, just not 17+
 
Somewhere in late 23 to 24 models Ford changed the from axle on 250’s and 350’s to a new 9.25” front axle that I haven’t heard abyone positively ID yet

It is an M235 from Dana Spicer's new Advantek line. Some configurations still get the '17+ Dana 60 with the 10.08" ring gear.

I stand corrected. Good to know....I take it the 2017s have a bigger than 9.75" ring gear (Maybe the 10" I have been reading about??).

I am pretty sure all of the '05+ axles (including the '17+ version) have the 10.08" ring gear (256mm) from the factory. I know my 3.73 2007 axle does.
 
Thanks for the 2017+ advice. But being cheap asses were going for the what ever axle we get that's 05+. But I doubt newer then 2010.
 
RCV makes 300M Hub Gears. I THINK they fit either the factory or warn hubs.
There was a thread a week or two back where someone was trying to install those in a stock lockout and determined that you can’t disassemble the stock one to get it in there. At least that’s what I recall. And rcv wasn’t helpful to them at all.

Not sure what the hub gear is designed for if that’s the case.
 
Thanks again for all the inside guys. We ended up picking up and '07 for $450.

The stupid seal donuts on the axle shafts are fuggin retarded.

Or its a salty cdn axle that's the prob. We had to cut the ball joints to pull shafts and knuckles as one. Then cut the u joints so I can press out the stub shafts tomorrow.

Frig if you don't have a torch or a plasma cutter don't even bother getting one of these axles. So much shit cast into it that has to be removed.

Luckily friend took it to work and used the plasma there.
 
What's the cheapest option to get into the 1550 u joints and shafts?
 
What's the cheapest option to get into the 1550 u joints and shafts?
Stock is pretty cheap


 
There was a thread a week or two back where someone was trying to install those in a stock lockout and determined that you can’t disassemble the stock one to get it in there. At least that’s what I recall. And rcv wasn’t helpful to them at all.

Not sure what the hub gear is designed for if that’s the case.
Nope, but everyone I know that wheels hard has drive slugs. There's a thread about them in the Ford section with some people that seem to be running them.

 
Thanks again for all the inside guys. We ended up picking up and '07 for $450.

The stupid seal donuts on the axle shafts are fuggin retarded.

Or its a salty cdn axle that's the prob. We had to cut the ball joints to pull shafts and knuckles as one. Then cut the u joints so I can press out the stub shafts tomorrow.

Frig if you don't have a torch or a plasma cutter don't even bother getting one of these axles. So much shit cast into it that has to be removed.

Luckily friend took it to work and used the plasma there.
Yeah...thinking about one of these to swap into my Cummins....but I think I'm going to get a housing from TTR Axle & Fab due to exactly what you're saying. $900 for the bare housing is kind of worth it to me to avoid the headache.
 
I stand corrected. Good to know....I take it the 2017s have a bigger than 9.75" ring gear (Maybe the 10" I have been reading about??).
9.75 and 10in gear. With a larger 28 spline pinion. Basically a advantek 60.
 
Stock is pretty cheap


Thanks!
 
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