New year, new financial mistake, 4800 build.

[Byro]

All I’ve done this whole build is second guess all my decisions so what’s one more.

3:1 it is. Final answer. Little lower crawl ratio and run it hi range everywhere except technical sections.

 

[chaplinfj60]

3:1 is a very nice spot to be over all.

 

[bad zuki]

I'd run the 3:1 gear if you don't have crazy engine power. Takes strain off the axles too. Spend way too much time getting the atlas shifter perfect.

 

[Opiebennett]

If you get the car together and really hate the 3:1, the used atlas market seems to be within $500 of a brand new one, so for $500 you could probably swap to 2:1 at that point.

 

[Byro]

I'd run the 3:1 gear if you don't have crazy engine power. Takes strain off the axles too. Spend way too much time getting the atlas shifter perfect.

I’ve had good luck with all of my D300 mechanical shifters I’ve built. Im hoping the Atlas is at least equal, hopefully better.

 

[JR4X]

I’ve had good luck with all of my D300 mechanical shifters I’ve built. Im hoping the Atlas is at least equal, hopefully better.

My stick shifted atlas’s shift like butter. I wouldn’t touch a cable shifter ever again though

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I've never heard a good thing about cable shifters. Everybody seems to hate them and I get why.

 

[JR4X]

I've never heard a good thing about cable shifters. Everybody seems to hate them and I get why.

I never miss an opportunity to bash cable shifters and explain why. Regardless of what anyone try’s to tell you. A cable cannot push like it can pull. The push pull rating of a cable is with the cable laid out in a straight line. One 180° like is required to make a t-case shifter work. Cuts the pounds of push force in half. You basically lose all the push force to the friction between the cable and the housing. What actually ends up happening in a cable shifted t-case is the cable housings ending up in the shape of an omega sign. So they glide in the pull direction and stack up in the push direction.

I had a fancy cable set in my LJ to keep from cutting the floor for real linkages. No amount of adjusting changed how impossible it was to get it into high range. Forget front/rear digs. I finally got sick of it and bought the TJ/LJ mechanical linkage kit. Cut the floor to install them and found my pos atlas shifted just fine and wasn’t actually the worst atlas on the planet like I was accusing it of. Those cute little sticks looked nice but were useless

 

[Byro]

More parts showed up in the flavor of a 3:1 race case Atlas.

 

[Tryloff]

 

[Byro]

Then since I’m not making any actual progress on this thing and I’ve had axle housings and parts sitting on my bench for over a year now I got to second guessing on that too.

Sold off all my kingpin stuff to Sluggy



I figured if I’m going to do it I might as well do it and go 40spl. Sold the GW 3.250” cases and bought some 3.810” It’s unbelievable how much bigger they are.

Picked up some 40spl spools and set everything up.

 

[Byro]

So now I had the 40spl inners and ditched the spindle bearings I needed some cups and UBs. A friend of mine local had a set of 6x5.5 40spl UBs sitting around snagged those for a deal and ordered up rear cups from Spidertrax.

These things are straight badass.


Had to order up a set of front knuckles. They were out of stock at Spidertrax of course. Had to sweat it out. They showed up today.

Got them put together. Absolute beef.

 

[Byro]

So no actual progress. Just more part buying. My home shop currently is an absolute mess as I insulate and finish it out so I’ll be more inclined to work out here this winter and hopefully finish some rigs and start sticking some of my hoard of 4800 parts together into something that may at least resemble a subframe/roller.

 

[ridered3]

Looking good!!!