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New year, new financial mistake, 4800 build.

Byro said:
Mini update.


And currently figuring bout the best way to get a cowl from Oregon to Ohio.

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$700 seems outrageous to me, probably gonna is what it is that price though. Cowl and title/vin is worth it. Build a mail Jeep Ultra4 car I said. :lmao:
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I've had body parts shipped to me via Greyhound bus. If it fits in the storage under the bus they'll haul it. Just pick it up at the closest Greyhound depot.
 
gt1guy said:
I've had body parts shipped to me via Greyhound bus. If it fits in the storage under the bus they'll haul it. Just pick it up at the closest Greyhound depot.
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So thanks to Wisconsinite I got it on its way for $280. :smokin:

So I’ve got a grille from Texas, a cowl from Oregon, can’t wait to see where the hood comes from.
 
Update on the trail rig, got the cage just about buttoned back up.

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I need to bring some Ospho from the shop and wipe this thing down already. Humidity has been 1000% here lately and it’s already flash rusting.

With the cage work done the rest should go at least I’m hoping relatively quickly. Next on the order list is some wheels and tires and heims for the 4800 so I can hammer out the sub frame and get the axles set.
 
Byro said:
We don’t have huge flat stretches out here, and I would rather let the motor rev than run the extra electronics to control the 4L80.

I imagine hearing this thing so at 80mph it’s wrung out. Should it ever make it to KOH a swap of 3rds for a little more speed would be easy enough.
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I can’t believe my selfish ass hasn’t already found this thread. :shaking:

I have pertinent good info that I absolutely unequivocally guarantee is true useable information here. I used to race in a JHF car that had an LS7/TH400/9” axles with Gearworks 6.20:1 gears on 37 inch tires. 7000 rpm was 107 miles per hour in 3rd gear.

80 mph with 5.38’s is child’s play! That LS isn’t even singing yet at 80 in 3rd gear on 37’s in a 4800 car.

In for progress homie! This little guy would hit 100 with 6.20 gears and TH400 like it was nothing!

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Little update. I’ve been so busy with stuff at the shop I haven’t had the time and/or energy to mess with anything when I get home. I did muster a little to start messing with the axles.

I got a box of parts from ECGS. Knuckles, Cs, kingpin kits, 6x5.5 hubs. The gears were for a customer.

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I have enough Ford shafts laying around I played around with a few combos and a quick consoltation with JR4X i decided on my WMS.
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Turns out Will sent me super kingpin inners.
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I thought they looked extra beefy but didn’t realize until I tried stick the knuckles on them. With that I figured I’d fiddle with the rear. I had a RuffStuff 9” truss I was going to use for something else a while back. I had to widdle on it a bit to fit it to fit the Trail Gear banjo.
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Got it fitted and tacked it with the TIG, took it to the shop and burned it in with the MIG.
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Did the old paper trick to mark the tubes and stuck it in my old ass band saw that cuts crooked as hell.
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That was all the time I had this morning for extracurriculars at the shop. Should be able to get the spindles tacked on tomorrow.
 
What are you going to change to pair up properly? Super KP outers? Or regular KP inner C’s?

If you do the super KP’s and find out later you have issue’s keeping axles alive. It would be nice to be able to step up to the bigger u-joints that would fit in the super c’s that won’t fit in the regular ones.

That said. We run big power through normal size KP 60 RCV’s in the 4500 car and kind of keep it alive. The 300M RCV joints hold up just fine. The 35 spline 300M shafts are living on borrowed time though.
 
Standard KP Cs. I’m trying to keep axle parts between the race car and trail rig the same. Makes spare parts easier, Solid knuckles on both, 6x5.5 hubs, Chevy outers, Spidertrax brakes, (may end up going Branik brakes)

I was between the Branik Legacy shafts and RCVs, more than likely go RCV because the idea of constantly greasing a bushing u-joint isn’t that appealing.
 
Byro said:
Standard KP Cs. I’m trying to keep axle parts between the race car and trail rig the same. Makes spare parts easier, Solid knuckles on both, 6x5.5 hubs, Chevy outers, Spidertrax brakes, (may end up going Branik brakes)

I was between the Branik Legacy shafts and RCVs, more than likely go RCV because the idea of constantly greasing a bushing u-joint isn’t that appealing.
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I’ve had extremely good luck with my RCV’s. We’ve obliterated some shafts in the 4531 car but… 700 HP and green flag brain, it happens.
 
Not planning to run that much power through them, but who knows, I do like to party.

You guys run LP or HP 9s in the 4500 car? My original plan was Gearworks 10” HP front and rear, I’m wondering if the HP rear would be the weak link. I’d rather sacrifice ground clearance in the name of strength, although they have the amboid cut that is supposed to be designed to be ran as a HP rear. This is where my basic hillbilly knowledge runs thin. :lmao:
 
We run high pinion front and rear. They don’t have the amboid’s they advertise though. Pisses me off, everyone in U4 I know has their rigs built around gearworks 10’s and the 5.43 ratio. Those are all gone and nobody is geared up (pun intended) to start making gears again yet. If you can get away with low pinion you can probably get what you’re after.

Anticipate things being strained for a couple more years post scamdemic.
 
Tubeworx makes fancy HP10 gears, don't they ?
 
Bebop said:
Tubeworx makes fancy HP10 gears, don't they ?
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Low pinion only at this point I think. And as far as I know GW is still able to get their low pinion stuff out. It’s the high pinion that’s a problem.
 
They make HP thirds and gearsets.
Miller runs them.

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Bebop said:
They make HP thirds and gearsets.
Miller runs them.

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I knew I had seen them, I think Gomez has some and were one of the first to R&D them. I just went and looked and it’s on the website now. The last time I looked there was nothing on their website
 
Byro said:
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Fancy. This is the $500 “open box” eBay 5.29 set. I can’t see any blemishes or indications they were ever set up.
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That’s a score but an odd ratio for 9” stuff. Did you get two sets?
 
Byro said:
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Fancy. This is the $500 “open box” eBay 5.29 set. I can’t see any blemishes or indications they were ever set up.
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Are you planing any other processing on the gears? Shot peening, cryo, REM polishing?
 
gt1guy said:
Are you planing any other processing on the gears? Shot peening, cryo, REM polishing?
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Shouldn’t need anything more than the REM they already have. My power target, 37s, and 35spl shafts, the gears shouldn’t be the weak link.

A 4400 car with 40s and 800hp cryo treatment wouldn’t be a bad idea.
 
JR4X said:
They’re already rem polished. How much shinier do you want them? :confused:
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Just enough to see finger prints:flipoff2: I almost didn't mention the REM because they were so shinny, but said fuck it. They do look link the gears I had done.
 
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