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Need the wrong tool for the job.

arse_sidewards said:
Because having an obvious taper in the toe kick that you see every day is sooo much better than having to keep the few "round enough to roll" things from rolling. :shaking:

Fuck that. Nobody is gonna notice 1" over 8ft off level. Everyone is gonna notice when the cabinet at one end is an inch higher off the floor than the one at the other end.


And crack a bunch of plaster and drywall in the process while deleting energy efficient self-closing doors? Nope. :flipoff2:
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Takes a good eye and some experience, apologies for calling you out:flipoff2:
 
posford said:
If it didn't crack on the way down, it wont crack on the way back up.
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Unless it did and someone fixed it after it settled....

posford said:
Good bottle jack, take tension up over several days until its back in place, lag bolt in supporting pieces, remove jack. My parents back section of house was built in the 1760s, main section is 1810s-ish, grew up doing this shit :flipoff2:
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I did all that shit to a house that was build on a foundation on sand dunes around 1800. That's actually the house I was thinking of when talking about the cabinets. Kitchen was a long skinny addition around 1860 and the side that was on the OG house sank with it. The house foundation looked like a noodle but whatever old-timey half-baked bricks and mortar they used didn't even crack. I'm well aware of what's involved.

I have one brick saved somewhere that's got a nice bend to it from where the was a boulder under the sand and it sank and the adjacent bit of foundation didn't and another that's C-shaped and has the hand print of the laborer who did a shit job taking it out of the form. :laughing:
 
posford said:
If it didn't crack on the way down, it wont crack on the way back up. Good bottle jack, take tension up over several days until its back in place, lag bolt in supporting pieces, remove jack. My parents back section of house was built in the 1760s, main section is 1810s-ish, grew up doing this shit :flipoff2:
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I found a good house jack during renovation of a building. They formed/poured a bank vault in the basement, then placed some formwork on the vault lid to place the 1st floor. Formwork must of been out of level so they tossed a large house jack under 1 side. 60 years later, I snag it out while renovating the basement.
 
D Nelly said:
built up luan
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I once used 1/8" luan plywood as a final floor surface 30 years ago, entirely as an afterthought. And I'd do it again under the same circumstances.

Had a 24x61 mobile home from 1971 w/ linoleum in kitchen & gold shag carpet in the adjacent dining room. Decided to do it all with 1 sheet of lino. & needed to make up a 1/8" height difference while covering particle board w/ something compatible w/ lino. adhesive. Bought 3 sheets of 1/8" luan plywood, razor-cut to size, & put them down w/ finish nails. Stopped & looked at that, then decided to go buy a gallon of marine spar varnish.

3 sheets of luan @ $8 each, $20 for varnish, & some aluminum trim added up to a $50 floor that looked great & folks constantly complimented :laughing: Had already bought the sheet vinyl, so that extra section replaced the 1971 gold shag carpet :barf: in the master bath for "free", and the leftover from a cutout around a recessed tub in the MBR gave me enough to re-floor the wet bar area.

Long story short: if you bury cheap luan plywood under basketball floor varnish, it can look legit :grinpimp:
 
ExWrench said:
luan plywood as a final floor surface
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I've seen poly'd osb floors a few times now. I don't think I'd want them in my house but they definitely didn't look bad
 
ExWrench said:
Long story short: if you bury cheap luan plywood under basketball floor varnish, it can look legit :grinpimp:
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No need to spend $$ on fancy varnish. The cheapo floor poly these days is fucking great. Do your 2-3 coats like normal and then wait a week for it to cure up real good before sweeping and washing the floor and doing one final coat. That final coat will come out like freshly buffed fiberglass on a wood boat.
 
arse_sidewards said:
No need to spend $$ on fancy varnish. The cheapo floor poly these days is fucking great. Do your 2-3 coats like normal and then wait a week for it to cure up real good before sweeping and washing the floor and doing one final coat. That final coat will come out like freshly buffed fiberglass on a wood boat.
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I don't know if back then they even had the dolphin-safe dildo clearcoat to which you're referring, but a gallon of legit spar varnish was like 20 bucks out the door. I was nearly broke, but could skip 4 Taco Bell meals to have the baller candy glass on my double-wide's dining room floor :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
No need to spend $$ on fancy varnish. The cheapo floor poly these days is fucking great. Do your 2-3 coats like normal and then wait a week for it to cure up real good before sweeping and washing the floor and doing one final coat. That final coat will come out like freshly buffed fiberglass on a wood boat.
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That’s why shit is rolling off your counters, cheap ass:flipoff2:
 
Yota Up said:
Holy shit. That's ancient. And awesome.
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Lots of very "old" (by USA timeline) buildings in the original Colonial areas, really cool to take in how well some have held up. But remember to duck in doorways - I'm under 6' & felt like Shaq in some of those old buildings, because apparently America was settled by fookin' Ooompa Loompas or some shit :laughing:
 
I remodeled an old farmhouse, here in NC, some time in the late 80’s. The porch ceiling we pulled out was 20-24inch wide old growth plne planks We replaced it with 6 inch T&G:laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Fuck that. Nobody is gonna notice 1" over 8ft off level.
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The fuck you say. :flipoff2:


Every time i walk into a kitchen my eyes go directly to anything that isn't plumb or level because i've been doing this shit so long. I can spy a kick just as fast as a piece of crown, a cabinet door, or a top.


Appliances are included in that. :laughing:
 
posford said:
East coast stuff :flipoff2: Dining room floor is wide pine boards and square nails. Pretty positive that 1760s section was a garrison house
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One time I sided a house that was all old school pit sawn on site boards.

They were all marked in roman numerals on the wide end because they laid them out short end to long end and trimmed them to mate each one to the one before it.


trampas said:
The fuck you say. :flipoff2:


Every time i walk into a kitchen my eyes go directly to anything that isn't plumb or level because i've been doing this shit so long. I can spy a kick just as fast as a piece of crown, a cabinet door, or a top.
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Your "trained eye" won't notice jack shit when that off level puts it parallel with the floor and ceiling. :flipoff2:
 
Firstram said:
I remodeled an old farmhouse, here in NC, some time in the late 80’s. The porch ceiling we pulled out was 20-24inch wide old growth plne planks We replaced it with 6 inch T&G:laughing:
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I built my dad a shed from that sort of takeout lumber. :laughing:
 
trampas said:
The fuck it wouldn't. :flipoff2:


I'm a level "marksman" so i would call out everything in less than 3 seconds. So suckit, farmboy. :laughing:
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I always, not really, feel guilty for eyeballing the crooked, half ass attempts that poke me in the eye. It's hard to believe people can't compare one plane with the one next to it:homer:
 
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