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My recycle bucket

mobil1syn said:
put the pump in the tank where it belongs and let it push fuel and not suck creating a vacuum lowering the boiling point. id add a fan to move air a crossed the area before dealing with a fuel cooler since the tank will heat sink and you wont be able to cool it.

im going to tell dad you didnt listen to him.
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I hear ya, but the only inline pump I've had to replace in the past decade was from leaving it sit for a whole winter and it settled water to the bottom and rusted the pump solid. And I have two inline fuel systems sitting (one off the buggy and one spare for the buggy) so it's worth trying. Worst case, I waste a couple pumps I already have and you can say you told me so.

As for Dad, I'd be pretty happy to have him ride shotgun with me again; once this silly thing is running and I have some time, I fully intend to call him and Dave and get back to JV for a bit of trailride vacation.
 
On my lunch break, I borrowed a kid and hung a rear axle housing in the jeep. Coronapocalypse has its perks, no commute being one of them. It's about a 50 foot walk from my office to where the Jeep is sitting. Driveshaft looks good so far, but I haven't actually set the rear pinion angle yet. It's close though. Needed to get it hung even if it's not perfectly adjusted, so I can measure out hydraulic lines and get them ordered.

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Some actual tech in this post.

I like brakes. I like being able to stop when I want. I have 42s with homebrew trophy truck liners on steel beadlocks, that's a heavy combo. 193 pounds a corner when I first put them together.

I like power brakes, which limits out racecar calipers in most cases. I also like wear parts that I can get at the auto parts store. There are other ways of doing this, here's mine.

Rotors are 2001ish f150/250 redrilled to 8 lug. They're 13.75" diameter and about .875ish thick, vented. Calipers are 93ish 4runner. I have four 4runners worth of front calipers on this car. The dual caliper plumbing is such that fluid goes in one caliper as normal, then out the bleeder of that caliper, into the normal input of the other caliper. It works really well and bleeds out the remaining bleeder just like normal.

The bleeder port on the feeder caliper has been retapped to 1/8 pipe which is basically just a thread chase of the m10x1 threads that were there factory.

This much caliper volume needs a big master, so I have a late 70s GM 1-ton heavy brake vacuum boost master (1-5/16 bore) adapted to a dual diaphragm booster from the same 4runner variant that contributed the calipers. It's a thick but small diameter booster that is decently easy to package.

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Have you run this set up before? if so how does the pedal feel?
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
also curious? would this work on a chevy 60? any chance you have a CAD file for the brackets?
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Have run it. It came off my buggy more or less as-is. I am changing pedal from Wilwood to Toyota and I bought a new-to-me (junkyard) booster because the one in the buggy was modified to mount differently.

Pedal feel is good, it's light but aggressive. On par with a new Dodge truck, high on the pedal, very little free play, but it quickly gets towards rallycar if you get harder on the pedal. The free play would be more without residual valves, I run 2psi residuals as well to take up free play.

Yes, I have (2d) CAD of the brackets.

What I have is a FordChevy KP60. Ford TTB spindles and hubs on Chevy knuckles. With some creativity, it can be run on a straight Ford easily, and I'm confident with a little more spacer/machining work, could be run on a Chevy as well. I just haven't done either like this.
 
Not a good day for the electronphobic at my house today. Also not a good day for my soldering gun, I let the magic smoke out of it and had to buy another to continue.

The wiring as shown is double-ish what I'll actually be using, the car is getting a Megasquirt 3 Evo, which has a lot more capability than I need. So I weeded out a bunch and just coiled it up out of the way for now. I will be running sequential injection and ignition, I decided to use the VW coils (x4) because I had 3 already and a fourth (and fifth for a spare) were way cheaper than LS coils plus they package more easily in my car.

Other goodies include Ford bits: throttle position, idle air control, injectors (well, they're stock bronco configuration anyway, just a bit higher flowing), crank and cam position, GM bits: air temp, coolant temp, a Cummins oil pressure sensor, a pair of wideband O2 sensors.

I will probably hook the fan into the computer at some point but may not get to it yet. I still have a lot to do to get this thing road driveable and not a lot of calendar to do it in. I have the parts to wire in for trans and PS temps as well, a bit down the road maybe.

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ScottRS said:
Have run it. It came off my buggy more or less as-is. I am changing pedal from Wilwood to Toyota and I bought a new-to-me (junkyard) booster because the one in the buggy was modified to mount differently.

Pedal feel is good, it's light but aggressive. On par with a new Dodge truck, high on the pedal, very little free play, but it quickly gets towards rallycar if you get harder on the pedal. The free play would be more without residual valves, I run 2psi residuals as well to take up free play.

Yes, I have (2d) CAD of the brackets.

What I have is a FordChevy KP60. Ford TTB spindles and hubs on Chevy knuckles. With some creativity, it can be run on a straight Ford easily, and I'm confident with a little more spacer/machining work, could be run on a Chevy as well. I just haven't done either like this.
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Interesting...I am curious how the rotors are f150/250
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
Interesting...I am curious how the rotors are f150/250
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The year(s) ford used those rotors, they built a 6 lug f150 and a 7 lug f250. The rotors are dimensionally identical except for the bolt pattern. I'm using the 6 lug, but redrilled to 8x6.5. If you're redrilling anyway (both oem ford patterns are useless, the 6 is on some dumb metric pattern that probably only ford used, and 7 is 7) the pattern you start with really doesn't matter. So technically mine are f150 but if you're junkyarding the same can be found on some f250 and expedition. I'm using the rear rotors.

Looked it up specifically, the rotors I'm using are Durago BR54111, also crosses to 126110, 2006 f150 4.6l, rear.
 
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If you don't have some of these already, you are missing out. Blind hole transfer punch sits in what you have a hole in, then overlay the item you want to match to it, tap the item you want a hole in, and there's a dimple in it to center up a matching hole.

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Looking good. This is what I think is gonna happen to my 2 seater next spring. I didn't read it anywhere but whats the wheel base? What size rear seat? And I dig the antifreeze green.
 
HELL BOUND said:
Looking good. This is what I think is gonna happen to my 2 seater next spring. I didn't read it anywhere but whats the wheel base? What size rear seat? And I dig the antifreeze green.
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Summit application guide on the back seat is 97-06 jeep wrangler. It's a fold n tumble bestop aftermarket seat. Wheelbase landed about 121". Donor buggy that this is being built "out of" was 106" wheelbase. Thanks, the green was a challenge, I have more parts to paint green but I'm out of that paint for now. I'm really happy about how it turned out, I had a few issues with it (too hot when we sprayed, it was raining wildfire ash, we didn't know what we were doing, we were spraying a solvent base paint onto polycarbonate....) along the way, but clean, in person, in the sun, it really pops.
 
Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue...

PS reservoir, some assembly required. Using a reservoir on a reservoir concept, trying a new rotary baffle to separate air, will put a radiator cap on it to see if pressurizing it helps. I'm changing from what I've done before in that this will be dual feed to both pumps off one reservoir, so that could make things interesting. Reservoir will be mounted where the distributor belongs to keep the suction lines to the pumps short.

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What it looks like inside with everything but the lid on. It'll hold about two quarts of fluid plum full and will be plum full in normal operation, the expansion will be in the daisychained "buffer" reservoir that will be a surge tank for this one. No interesting tech in the surge tank, it'll just be a glorified bottle with a hose to the bottom of it.

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Buttoned up. I'll pressure test it after it cools off.

WaterH you asked about timelines on my doing stuff. This is about the least ADD thing I've done this entire build, I went inside about 8 and did this until midnight. Normally I'm pretty scattered and work on three things at once and it takes me three days to do stuff that should take two hours.

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Just to make sure I understand, the fluid returns via the side port, will flow in a circular path as it fills the outer cavity, then over the round "wall" into the center to be drawn out the two ports on to the pumps. Sounds logical. Is that a known way to remove airation?
 
WaterH said:
Just to make sure I understand, the fluid returns via the side port, will flow in a circular path as it fills the outer cavity, then over the round "wall" into the center to be drawn out the two ports on to the pumps. Sounds logical. Is that a known way to remove airation?
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Yes, correct on the flow dynamic. The fluid velocity as it comes up over the wall should be fairly low and should help to separate air to the top, and have a hard time pulling bubbles back to the bottom. This design does naturally give up the "supercharging" concept that some others use, where they point high velocity return flow directly at the suction port, only using the tank as a buffer. In this design, all flow goes through the tank. I think both have their advantages and disadvantages.

The swirl wall is a semi-common air/oil separation mechanism used in dry sump tanks in race cars, in industry in oil-injected air compressors, probably in other applications as well. It works well to separate air from oil in a lots-of-air (screw compressors, what I do for a day job) application; from the fact that it's also used in dry sump tanks, I assume it also works in a lots-of-oil application similarly.

This is a first-go-round for me using the swirl wall, feeding two pumps from one reservoir, and radiator-capping it to pressurize, so there's going to be a bit of "try it and see" here. In the past I've used some combination of cascade tubes, baffles, draw tubes, and multiple sequential reservoirs, but I don't have room for multiple reservoirs in this application, and while what I had before worked great, I wanted to see if I could make a better one this time.
 
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ScottRS said:
The year(s) ford used those rotors, they built a 6 lug f150 and a 7 lug f250. The rotors are dimensionally identical except for the bolt pattern. I'm using the 6 lug, but redrilled to 8x6.5. If you're redrilling anyway (both oem ford patterns are useless, the 6 is on some dumb metric pattern that probably only ford used, and 7 is 7) the pattern you start with really doesn't matter. So technically mine are f150 but if you're junkyarding the same can be found on some f250 and expedition. I'm using the rear rotors.

Looked it up specifically, the rotors I'm using are Durago BR54111, also crosses to 126110, 2006 f150 4.6l, rear.
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any idea is there is an 8x6.5 rotor that would work with the toyota calipers?
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
any idea is there is an 8x6.5 rotor that would work with the toyota calipers?
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In this specific diameter, offset, and thickness, not that I know of. In 8x6.5 and the right thickness in some smaller diameter and some other offset, probably. If you're open to using later (95 V6 4Runner) Toy calipers (same piston sizes, wider pad to pad thickness) that opens things up another step, those are about a 1" thick rotor. Unfortunately, the latest-model brake parts book I have stops at 2002, so a lot of the later big-rotor stuff out there, I just don't have a reference for.
 
ScottRS said:
In this specific diameter, offset, and thickness, not that I know of. In 8x6.5 and the right thickness in some smaller diameter and some other offset, probably. If you're open to using later (95 V6 4Runner) Toy calipers (same piston sizes, wider pad to pad thickness) that opens things up another step, those are about a 1" thick rotor. Unfortunately, the latest-model brake parts book I have stops at 2002, so a lot of the later big-rotor stuff out there, I just don't have a reference for.
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I've "shopped" on Rock Auto's website quite a bit for brake information. Lots of rotor dimensions available there. :)

I've messed quite a bit with mid-90's thru 2007 Land Cruiser calipers, the fronts use a 1.25" thick rotor. So do newer Cruisers, but the calipers mount differently. 2010+ 4Runner, plus similar year Tundras do also. :D (14" Tundra rotors, with 2002 LC calipers on D60 knuckles under my Cruiser)
 
ScottRS said:
Summit application guide on the back seat is 97-06 jeep wrangler. It's a fold n tumble bestop aftermarket seat. Wheelbase landed about 121". Donor buggy that this is being built "out of" was 106" wheelbase. Thanks, the green was a challenge, I have more parts to paint green but I'm out of that paint for now. I'm really happy about how it turned out, I had a few issues with it (too hot when we sprayed, it was raining wildfire ash, we didn't know what we were doing, we were spraying a solvent base paint onto polycarbonate....) along the way, but clean, in person, in the sun, it really pops.
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Thats gonna be a big difference for you from 106 to 121. I'm hoping I can keep mine in the 115 range. How about a pic from the side? And how wide did your chassis end up?
 
HELL BOUND said:
Thats gonna be a big difference for you from 106 to 121. I'm hoping I can keep mine in the 115 range. How about a pic from the side? And how wide did your chassis end up?
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I had a rig at 130ish many years ago, had one at 120ish without rear steer, both were "just point it and it climbs stupid stuff" setups. Hoping this one ends up similar.

Width is 59" at the door skins, 61" at the rocker bars. Prior buggy was 51" at the skins. Axles moved over, overall tire to tire width is 83". This one feels like a bus by comparison. But my 4runner is 65" at the door skins and wider yet at the nerf bars.

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looks good. It is a long bitch . I'm thinking 51 for the new rig. But I'm afraid I'll run out of room fast. Looks like you will have room for a full size cooler. :grinpimp:
 
HELL BOUND said:
looks good. It is a long bitch . I'm thinking 51 for the new rig. But I'm afraid I'll run out of room fast. Looks like you will have room for a full size cooler. :grinpimp:
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I'm trying to replace my buggy and my 4runner into one rig. I don't compete any more so I'm not too worried about making it a good cone dodger, and I wanted it street legal(ish) for which the Jeep nose is pretty good. I thought about narrowing it, but with the twin turbo plans and a full-size front radiator, narrowing thoughts quickly went out the window.

Every time I compare it dimensionally to my buggy I have to remind myself "yeah, but it's smaller than my 4runner". Wheelbase is longer than the 4runner (stock was 103, current is 106) but the 4runner doesn't have rear steer. Any which way, yeah, it's big. It's very close in almost every dimension to a 4 door Jeep Rubicon, that wasn't really a goal, just happened.
 
On the cooler, not quite down on the floor, but on top of the "bed rails" I think so. The cargo area between wheelwells is about 32" long, 23" wide, and 14-17" high not accounting for the sideways taper weirdness of the wheelwells.

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I love-hate wiring. It makes sense to me (I have heard for many it doesn't) but it's sooooo time consuming. In this particular case, I have aftermarket LED headlights with amber glow rings that can be used as turn signals. So I'm wiring them for that, but the signal was going to back feed my marker circuit and blink signal on one side and marker on the other, so I'm wiring in blocker diodes to prevent that. An hour later, and I can have markers *and* turn signals that do what they're supposed to.

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I dread wiring. I can figure out most eventually, but I just hate it. Looking at your pic, is there any concern that the diodes have such small wire compared to the wires they join? I suppose led lights don't draw any current, so it's all overkill. I bought a turn signal kit from Summit. Haven't really looked at it yet. I sure hope I don't have to do what your doing.

Right now im wiring some fan relays. They are 60 amp relays. The fans are 22 amps and there's two. (44 amps) So in theory one relay is fine. But the relay has spade connectors and I'm not sure if a spade can handle 44 amps. I don't know why they would make them if they don't. To run 44 amps more than 4 feet, your supposed to have 8 gauge wire. They don't make spade connectors for any bigger than 10 gauge. Wtf?

Anyways, good work.
 
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