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Dear Sweet Baby Jeezus, IT"S RIGHT FAWKING THERE!!!!! Use it. Cool build BTW. Oh, and didn't you roto-till your garden with your rig and video it? Link?

Yep, that was me. Whole back yard, actually, not just the garden. And this one time, I sank it pretty bad in the garden....

And thank you for the compliment on the build.

Apparently the size thing is dependent on how you upload pics. Since my pics are on my phone, I'm posting from it. I've been using the "upload photo" option, the size thing isn't in there. I honestly thought the thumbnail is nice, again, from the "I do most of my irate4x4 surfing on my phone" standpoint.

I'll find the YouTube link of rototilling and add it. Meanwhile, you can make fun of my stuck in the garden situation. My wife definitely did. Still does.

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Yep, that was me. Whole back yard, actually, not just the garden. And this one time, I sank it pretty bad in the garden....

And thank you for the compliment on the build.

Apparently the size thing is dependent on how you upload pics. Since my pics are on my phone, I'm posting from it. I've been using the "upload photo" option, the size thing isn't in there. I honestly thought the thumbnail is nice, again, from the "I do most of my irate4x4 surfing on my phone" standpoint.

I'll find the YouTube link of rototilling and add it. Meanwhile, you can make fun of my stuck in the garden situation. My wife definitely did. Still does.

I bet your neighbors just love you.
 
Man its awesome to see Scott back in here posting up a build, Following along for the ensuing out of the box thinking and antics. :grinpimp::grinpimp:
 
Just because the world needs more absurdity, here's what I used for smoothing out where I now have grass.

Yes, I do plan to put the blade on the Jeep eventually.

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I think I can officially claim to not understand now. Or am I supposed to understand? This Jeep thing is so confusing.

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Now that I'm starting on skin, I can show off one of my trick little ideas that turned out to be a giant pain to execute. The car doesn't have a frame as such, the nerf bars are sort of my frame rails. There is a belly (back on page one) but the cage doesn't (can't) go that far down, and the belly area is mostly open.

So my neat idea was, I wanted the nerf bars proud of the skins to protect the skins. But I didn't want running boards, I wanted them tight. So they stick out by 1" past the skins. Catch is, that means the a pillars had to land half on and half next to the nerf bars. The rear wheel arches land in a bend on order to bring them an inch inboard to match target body width. Making all that match up was a pain, but I like the end result.

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Now that I'm starting on skin, I can show off one of my trick little ideas that turned out to be a giant pain to execute. The car doesn't have a frame as such, the nerf bars are sort of my frame rails. There is a belly (back on page one) but the cage doesn't (can't) go that far down, and the belly area is mostly open.

So my neat idea was, I wanted the nerf bars proud of the skins to protect the skins. But I didn't want running boards, I wanted them tight. So they stick out by 1" past the skins. Catch is, that means the a pillars had to land half on and half next to the nerf bars. The rear wheel arches land in a bend on order to bring them an inch inboard to match target body width. Making all that match up was a pain, but I like the end result.

You showed us this because you're unsure about it, and you should be:

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That's terrible man. You pushed everything out until it all rests on the curve after the 'Multi-Joint'. Your unibody will hold the front of the joint together, but that after section is fucked.

How in the hell are you going to account for all of those riser's stresses on the curve aft?

I think you reduced the problem down to that point and didn't solve it. Hoping for the best? Is that where the software ended?

I'm a troll but I'm not trolling you. I'm curious to see how this happens. :smokin:
 
Is it possible to sleeve that area with a heavy wall slug?

Already done: the nerf bar and everything below it is 1.75/.120 with 1.5/.120 stuffed inside it for impact resistance, from the winch tray down the length of the nerf bars. Everywhere the cage lands on it, is that way. From a racecar engineering perspective, bad: heavier than necessary. From a cost/durability perspective, I'm OK with it, it's not a racecar.
Not worried about it structurally, the junction shown is partway along the "seam" between two structures that look basically like bridge trusses. The picture was taken from under the next horizontal tube up. Further, it's not done yet, there is more tube yet to go in.
On the other hand, if it does fail, I'll be doing my best rendition of the Monty Python "the front fell off" skit. Because that's what it'll be, the whole thing will have to split, roughly at the firewall. I'm not entirely convinced a crash bad enough to do that to this, would be suvivable for occupants regardless of chassis intact-or-not status.
 
Minor milestone reached this weekend. I hate welding overhead, so I left a lot of overhead welding un-done until now. As I've done with prior tube cars, flip the chassis, weld the overhead stuff right side up, then flip it back over. Unfortunately, I don't have room to flip it inside, so I had to take it out to flip it. Car rotisserie would help here, redneck 4runner jib crane will have to do.

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What engine management are you using? We have a buggy that has a '91 5.8 with a c6 behind it. It has issues with stalling. we stripped the stock harness down, but curious if there is a better option?
 
What engine management are you using? We have a buggy that has a '91 5.8 with a c6 behind it. It has issues with stalling. we stripped the stock harness down, but curious if there is a better option?

I think there is. As they say, your mileage may vary.

My buggy ran a Microsquirt on the 5.0, I put a crank position sensor on to support that, and ran batch-fire injection, wasted spark distributorless ignition, and it ran well. This one I'm stepping up to Megasquirt to get sequential injection, per-cylinder ignition, per-cylinder knock management, per-side O2, and a more-boost-ready controller. Obviously, I'm a fan of the Mega/Micro squirt line. It is a nearly start-from-scratch engine management build though. If you don't want/need knock control (Microsquirt "can" do it, but IMO the method is a bit kludgey and not great on Ford engines), are good with batch injection and waste-spark ignition, the Microquirt is a great way to go. If you want more out of it, Megasquirt is right there, but it's a big $$ step up from Micro.

I had a Quarterhorse on the Ford EFI once upon a time, it was great when it was good, had something else before that, had off-n-on problems, went through a stock harness, bought the Ford Motorsports standalone harness, went through that, threw sensor after sensor at it, finally stripped it off and put a GM TBI on instead, that was great until the computer failed, then it turned into a mess. That's when I went Microsquirt. New DIY harness, Ford IAC, Ford TPS, GM IAT, GM Baro, GM MAP, Ford (Bosch) injectors, wideband O2, VW Beetle logic ignition coils, Ford crank position sensor off a '99ish Explorer, crank wheel off the Explorer, short/reverse timing cover and water pump from the Explorer, etc. The '96 Bronco has a long reverse rotation water pump and the same timing cover as the Explorer if you want the equivalent 351 parts. It also has a four tooth crank wheel (not useful) on the same size/location register that you can push the Explorer 36-1 crank wheel onto and have it line up nicely with the Bronco/Explorer (they're the same) crank position sensor. I made a half-n-half cam position sensor out of the Bronco 351 distributor and an Explorer cam sensor assembly.
 
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I'm debating on reusing the VW coils either in waste-spark with the Megasquirt for the time being, switching to LS coils ($$), or using four of the VW coils and plugging off one coil tower on each, since I already have three (two from my buggy and one spare) I'd only need one more. Waste spark is fine for me, I'm not sure if there's enough advantage to individual coils over paired coils for the RPM range I'm going to run at. Streetbike level RPM range, it'd matter.

Because of plug wire routing concerns I'll probably do either one more VW coil or swap to LS coils, that will let me keep my plug wires shorter and away from the headers. More about packaging at that point than performance.

I did add knock sensors to the engine when I went back together with it, LS style in the lifter valley, pigtailed out through the intake gasket at the end.
 
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Cute little generic Bosch wideband knock sensors.

I'll put up some more engine-management stuff as I build the harness, hopefully in the next few weeks. Need to move a turbo drain line bung on the pan, get the engine back into the chassis, and get going on the assembly process.

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Bit of a non-tech update, got the first batch of bodywork painted and the engine/trans/tcase back in today. Enslaved a couple children and a wife for the stabbing of the powertrain stack, actually went pretty smoothly. So much reassembly to do.

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Looking forward to your engine buildup, I'd like to see as many details as possible.
 
Bit of a non-tech update, got the first batch of bodywork painted and the engine/trans/tcase back in today. Enslaved a couple children and a wife for the stabbing of the powertrain stack, actually went pretty smoothly. So much reassembly to do.

Nice! It would be real nice if you would keep track of reassembly. Like "two working days on plumbing, seven days on wiring, etc". Than I could convert them in to my days (your days x 6) to see how long my reassembly will take. Ummm, maybe not. Just take pics, please.
 
Nice! It would be real nice if you would keep track of reassembly. Like "two working days on plumbing, seven days on wiring, etc". Than I could convert them in to my days (your days x 6) to see how long my reassembly will take. Ummm, maybe not. Just take pics, please.

Pics are still being taken, but many don't really show much that resembles progress or tech lately. I'll probably have more when it gets to wiring and plumbing, after the rear axle is in.

I spent much of today dealing with turbo stuff: plumbing, mounting, had to make a pair of exhaust gaskets to go between the headers and the turbos (0.062 copper sheet) and do some mix-n-match among turbo parts to end up with two good ones as I munched an impeller some time ago. I'm hanging the exhaust and aiming to do most of the plumbing and general wiring before I put the floors back in.

On the "that was progress" side, with the help of the same conscripted children and wife from before, we got the windshield glass installed. Not really all that exciting, but one more bit along the way.
 
It's not a racecar, it's not a racecar, it's not a racecar... I can't escape my own tendencies to put stuff in racecar places. Battery, ARB compressor, belly tank, snuck into the underneath. Rear steer valve will be in there too shortly. At least I'm keeping a low center of gravity. Rear floor will dzus out in sections to allow access to all that stuff underneath.

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I'm thinking of adding a fuel cooler to the system this go-around, in part because of long-ago hot-fuel problems, and in part because this thing has the belly tank between one side of exhaust and the transmission. Not sure if there's an issue with using a junkyard transmission cooler for that purpose, figure it can't hurt (other than my wallet buying more fuel hose) and might help. Anybody done/tried that or had good (or bad) results with something in that direction?
 
It's not a racecar, it's not a racecar, it's not a racecar... I can't escape my own tendencies to put stuff in racecar places. Battery, ARB compressor, belly tank, snuck into the underneath. Rear steer valve will be in there too shortly. At least I'm keeping a low center of gravity. Rear floor will dzus out in sections to allow access to all that stuff underneath.

Hmmm, I don't see the AC system. Must be a race car.

On the fuel cooler, why not design it so you can easily add a cooler if it's an issue? Hate to add complexity and work if you don't need it. But it is nice to think ahead in case. (So you don't have to undo something allready finished)
 
Hmmm, I don't see the AC system. Must be a race car.

On the fuel cooler, why not design it so you can easily add a cooler if it's an issue? Hate to add complexity and work if you don't need it. But it is nice to think ahead in case. (So you don't have to undo something allready finished)

If I lived in Florida, anything without AC would be race or less usage only. I was in St Augustine for work late last month, it's even hot when it's raining there, it's just wetter. On the other hand, I also don't have heat (yet) so that makes it a semi-race-car here. I am planning on adding heat eventually.

I already have tabs under the tail with the plan of potential aux cooler pack addition later, basically in where a CJ7 fuel tank would have been. I'm not sure how much cooler pack I want to stick up front vs. put in back. Since I have the front cooler pack apart right now, it's easy to add (within space constraints) more primary-cooler stuff now, at the risk of screwing up airflow through the radiator and charge air cooler. I don't have a fan or anything for the rear/aux cooler location yet.
 
I'm thinking of adding a fuel cooler to the system this go-around, in part because of long-ago hot-fuel problems, and in part because this thing has the belly tank between one side of exhaust and the transmission. Not sure if there's an issue with using a junkyard transmission cooler for that purpose, figure it can't hurt (other than my wallet buying more fuel hose) and might help. Anybody done/tried that or had good (or bad) results with something in that direction?

put the pump in the tank where it belongs and let it push fuel and not suck creating a vacuum lowering the boiling point. id add a fan to move air a crossed the area before dealing with a fuel cooler since the tank will heat sink and you wont be able to cool it.

im going to tell dad you didnt listen to him.
 
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