My new beat up broke down Ram truck

[Ugly pumpkin]

So I came across this truck on craigslist a couple days ago and decided I needed another project.

It's a 97' ram with a bad motor and beat sheet metal but it's a rust free California truck by golly.
Someone also used it to practice their body work on so it's got that going for it too!

I loaded up the dog and ol lady and drove 3.5 hours to take a look. It was as expected, a beat to shit fleet vehicle someone brought here from cali to restore. They gave up and now it's mine for the low low price of 1500.(almost) It should be here in a couple days.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

Link fail. Oh well.

Nothing crazy planned for it. Replace blown engine, fix whatever else I can find, drive it to work. Truck stuff. When time and money allows, fix or pay to get fixed beat up sheetmetal. I've never done any major bodywork so that should be fun.
First question: Since the motor is getting replaced, why not go bigger? Is the 5.9 a simple swap? Or worth the effort?

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

It came with the stock wheels and wore out tires. I'll keep the wheels and get some new meats for it. Duratracs or something along that line.

I'm debating on junkyard engine and pray or new/rebuild. The budget is tight because I spend it all on beer and lucky strikes. Any company I should be leaning toward or away from?

I've never done much for bodywork and have barely any tools for it so any insight into that is much appreciated. I'm thinking it's cheaper without the rust? What should the budget be if I farm it out?

The interior is in good shape. Probably replaced at some point so I'll leave it. It does need a dash pad and someone in the other thread reccomend one so that is covered.

Undercoating. Going to attempt this myself before it sees the saltroads of Michigan. Who has used what? What works and doesn't work?

Transmission. It's automatic. That's all I know. Seller said it worked and I am inclined to believe him. He was very genuine and I got a good vibe from him.
Run it? Rebuild it? Engine will be out so...? Any known issues I should be looking for? I rebuilt 1 automatic transmission in school 15 years ago with 2 classmates. But I ain't skerred if it should be done.

Anything else in general about these trucks I need to look out for or change or kill with fire?

In conclusion: I feel like a retard for spending 1500$ on a beat up old work truck with a blown motor that I hope will show up in 3 or 4 days.
Help me sink more money into it and I will document my fuckery here.

P.S. It's rust free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

Another intended use for this pig is to haul us and our gear 3 hours north to our favorite little camping/fishing spot. So I'll need a way to keep everything in the bed dry. I have zero experience with bed covers. What do you fuckers use that works good?

Thanks!

 

[TRINDU]

I have a '98(318) w/ 180k, owned it since '04 and 70k.

I have replaced:

46RE(twice) first I blew up the pump, second was a shit rebuild from the first and bearings gave up. Engine related shit such as water pump, a/c, tune up, etc. Never touched the suspension, never had any funny wear, death wobble, or steering issues. Started a bad howl from the rear end and parked it.

Personally I'd buy an engine from LKQ, I've purchased several in the past and they garuantee them. Closest i saw to you was 2 hours away in Toledo and $700. Would be the easiest plug and play.

off topic- know anyone with the last name of Chartier in Port Huron?

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

I have a '98(318) w/ 180k, owned it since '04 and 70k.

I have replaced:

46RE(twice) first I blew up the pump, second was a shit rebuild from the first and bearings gave up. Engine related shit such as water pump, a/c, tune up, etc. Never touched the suspension, never had any funny wear, death wobble, or steering issues. Started a bad howl from the rear end and parked it.

Personally I'd buy an engine from LKQ, I've purchased several in the past and they garuantee them. Closest i saw to you was 2 hours away in Toledo and $700. Would be the easiest plug and play.

off topic- know anyone with the last name of Chartier in Port Huron?

Was that the only trans option? If so I guess I might as well attempt a rebuild.

Used engines around here are ~$500. I'll keep LKQ in my back pocket for now.

I'm guessing axles are 9 1/4" and dana 44?

My retard logic tells me this:

Might as well rebuild the engine since it's out.
Might as well rebuild the trans since the engine is rebuilt.
Might as well fix the body and make it halfway pretty since the running gear will be rock solid.

My budget replys with

I company by that name has been dredging some ponds for us at work off and on for the last couple years. Not sure if the spelling is the same. Red trucks. Haven't really got to know any of them. I've only been living here for about 8 years.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Elwenil]

A lot of "blah, blah, blah" and not very much real info. How many miles is on it? Was the transmission replaced before? Rear axle rebuilt? Front wheel bearing assemblies? The transmission is most likely a 46RE, the electrically controlled descendant of the 46RH, which was based off the legendary 727. The 46RE is about the only possibility as the 42RE was not used on V8s that year, and the 47RE was only used with the Cummins and 8.0L V10.

A 5.9L V8 swap is possible, as well as a 5.9L Cummins swap, but the 360 would be far easier, though it will require swapping more than the just the engine. Computers, wiring, emissions and the flexplate would need changed off the top of my head. The Cummins would need all that plus the transmission, transfer case, front suspension upgrade, etc. and in my opinion, is not really worth it. Actually, I would say neither swap is worth the effort for what you seem to want to use the truck for when there are more of these out available with the various options and it would be way easier to just buy another truck than tear it all apart, obtain the needed parts and built it all back again.

If you go with a junkyard engine, make sure you get a guarantee or warranty as cracked heads are very common on Magnum engines. Personally, I wouldn't do anything without diagnosing what is wrong with the current engine. It's condition will be the best info on where to go next and what to do. If it's an easy fix, to hell with swapping it.

Other problems with the BR series are rust in general, which may not be an issue with this one, the dash falls apart, transmission/transmission cooling issues, rear axle slack due to the 9 1/4's shitty design, unit bearing issues, brake issues and the usual electrical problems with an older truck. I've also seen a lot of issues with bushings wearing out in the front links causing a lot of banging noises when hitting bumps.

If you need to know anything about the options on the truck I can get the option list if you get me the last 8 of the VIN.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

A lot of "blah, blah, blah" and not very much real info. How many miles is on it? Was the transmission replaced before? Rear axle rebuilt? Front wheel bearing assemblies? The transmission is most likely a 46RE, the electrically controlled descendant of the 46RH, which was based off the legendary 727. The 46RE is about the only possibility as the 42RE was not used on V8s that year, and the 47RE was only used with the Cummins and 8.0L V10.

A 5.9L V8 swap is possible, as well as a 5.9L Cummins swap, but the 360 would be far easier, though it will require swapping more than the just the engine. Computers, wiring, emissions and the flexplate would need changed off the top of my head. The Cummins would need all that plus the transmission, transfer case, front suspension upgrade, etc. and in my opinion, is not really worth it. Actually, I would say neither swap is worth the effort for what you seem to want to use the truck for when there are more of these out available with the various options and it would be way easier to just buy another truck than tear it all apart, obtain the needed parts and built it all back again.

If you go with a junkyard engine, make sure you get a guarantee or warranty as cracked heads are very common on Magnum engines. Personally, I wouldn't do anything without diagnosing what is wrong with the current engine. It's condition will be the best info on where to go next and what to do. If it's an easy fix, to hell with swapping it.

Other problems with the BR series are rust in general, which may not be an issue with this one, the dash falls apart, transmission/transmission cooling issues, rear axle slack due to the 9 1/4's shitty design, unit bearing issues, brake issues and the usual electrical problems with an older truck. I've also seen a lot of issues with bushings wearing out in the front links causing a lot of banging noises when hitting bumps.

If you need to know anything about the options on the truck I can get the option list if you get me the last 8 of the VIN.

Fair enough.

I have about 20 minutes of eyes on time at this point. So blah blah blah is pretty much what we're working with for the moment.

180k on the instrument panel.

46RE, got it. Decendant of 727 inspires hope.
Off to research it.

Nothing visible new underneath it. I did not bother driving it. So who knows what is on the brink of disaster.

At 180k, and being a fleet vehicle most of its life I'd assume it was kept in good running shape until the engine let loose. At that point it had passed some age/mileage limit and was retired.


360 was the only thing I was looking at slapping in there unless there was a bigger small block it came with. Sounds like I'm sticking with the 5.2.

Current engine: PO described it pretty well. He bought it with "new head gaskets", drove it a bit and it went to shit on him. White smoke out the exhaust, losing coolant, about a gallon of coolant in the crankcase and water in cylinder 2. I'm assuming bad gasket job or cracked head/block. So if cracked heads are common, that's probably the problem.
Knowing the trouble water in the crankcase causes, I'm expecting a full rebuild. At least that is my luck.

Barely a lick of rust. Any undercoating recommendation to keep it that way?

Dash is gone. Need a replacement. Someone mentioned a brand I need to look into.

Trans is most likely coming out. What are the known issues and what are the fixes? What rebuild kit should I be looking at if required or desired?

I've never touched a 9 1/4" What is the design/slack issue and what is the fix?

I'll take a hard look at the brakes, unit bearings and bushings.

I have a late 90's jeep that I would rather had beat my dick with a hammer than deal with the electronic issues it has had. So we'll see how it goes with this one.

VIN VJ614688

Thanks for the input.

 

[Elwenil]

VIN 1B7HF13Y6VJ614688
Model Year 1997
Family BR - REGULAR CAB PICK-UP
Engine ELF - Engine - "Magnum" 5.2L SMPI V8
Transmission DGT - 4-Spd. Automatic 46RE Transmission
Market U - U.S.
Body Model 6L32 - DODGE RAM 1500 CLUB CAB 8FT BOX 4WD 154.7
Build Date 5/17/97
Trim *P1 - Premium Cloth 40/20/40 Bench Seat
Trim Color -K5 - CAMEL
Tire TYM - LT245/75R16C OWL All Terrain Tires


*P1 Premium Cloth 40/20/40 Bench Seat
-K5 CAMEL
0EG FAM: BR TRACKING: 60807T12
173 Zone 73-San Francisco
1AA U.S. Dealer Retail
24G Customer Preferred Package 24G
2TG Customer Preferred Package 2TG
3VT Customer Preferred Discount
4KZ 4X4 Tracking
4XQ Pickups Air Bag Tracking
5A6 Waterbase Paint
5IG BR-Vehicle Family
5IV P2-Vehicle Family
605 California State Code
6F4 Paint Order Code
905 California State Code
A05 5.2L ENGINE(ELF)/4SP AUTO TRANS(DGT)
ADA Light Group
ADJ Heavy Duty Service Group
AHC Trailer Tow Group
AJK Convenience Group
AJP Power Convenience Group
APA Monotone Paint
ASP SLT Decor Group
BAZ 136 Amp Alternator
BCQ 750 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BGJ Pwr Disc/Drum Rr Anti-Lock Brakes
BKA 11x2 Rear Drum Brakes
CBE 40/20/40 Split Bench Seat
CGT Driver Air Bag Only
CHE Deluxe Headliner
CKE Floor Covering Carpet
CLA Front Floor Mats
CSP Passenger Assist Handle
CSR Passenger Assist Handles
CUD Mini Overhead Console
DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGT 4-Spd. Automatic 46RE Transmission
DHA Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHK Shift-on-the-Fly,231HD Transfer Case
DJC 195MM Front Axle
DMH 3.92 Rear Axle Ratio
DRB Corporate 9.25 LD Rear Axle
DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
EAA All Engines
EAG All Gas Engine
ELF Engine - "Magnum" 5.2L SMPI V8
GAC Tinted Glass Windows
GBB Tinted Windshield Glass
GCB Front Door Tinted Glass
GNA Rear View Day/Night Mirror
GNM Passenger Side Sun Visor w/Mirror
GPP Power 6 x 9 Bright Mirrors
GVB All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
GXM Remote Keyless Entry
HAA Air Conditioning
HGA Hood Insulation
HGB Dash Liner Insulation
JAY Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JCB 120 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHA Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JJA Cigar Lighter
JJB Dual Note Electric Horns
JJJ Power Outlets - 12V && Cigar Lighter
JPA Power Windows
JPB Power Locks
K17 Bodyside Molding
K1X BLACK - MOLDING - BODYSIDE PROTECTIVE,W/
KRN STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
KTN STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
LAA Seat Belt Alert-3rd Row
LBA Map/Courtesy Lamp
LBC Glove Box Lamp
LDA Underhood Lamp
LMA Halogen Headlamps
LPE Cargo Lamp
MBF Bright Rear Bumper
MCT Bright Front Bumper
MDA Front License Plate Bracket
MFD Bright Grille
MHA Black Windshield Moldings
MPB Black Tailgate Applique
MWD Removable Tailgate w/Caliper Latches
MXB Front Air Dam
MXC Front Bumper Sight Shields
NAE California Emissions
NBK EVAP Control System
NFV 35 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHB Auxiliary Transmission Oil Cooler
NHM Speed Control
NMC Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
PFK Light Driftwood Satin Glow
QFK Light Driftwood Satin Glow
RAA All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RAZ AM/FM Cassette Compact Disc Radio
RCE 6 Infinity Speakers
RDD Fixed Long Mast Antenna
SBA Variable Assist Power Steering
SCV Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SFB Front Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers
SGB Rear Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers
SHA Front Stabilizer Bar
SUA Tilt Steering Column
TBB Spare Tire - Full Size/Winch Carrier
TBM Tire Carrier Winch
TYM LT245/75R16C OWL All Terrain Tires
TZA Goodyear Brand Tires
WLB Steel Spare Wheel
WND 16X7.0 Cast Aluminum Wheels
XBS Pickup Box
XCM Vendor Painted Cargo Box
XEF Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
YAA Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications
YGE 5 Additional Gallons of Gas
Z6A GVW Rating - 6400#
ZBS Spring - Left Rear
ZHD Spring - Left Front
ZPS Spring - Right Rear
ZWC Spring - Right Front

 

[Elwenil]

9 1/4" axles have a weak crush sleeve to preload the pinion that will eventually cause the pinion to lose preload and eat the pinion bearing, seal and then the ring and pinion set. The backlash adjustment is retained by a couple little clips that do very little and it will eventually lose the backlash setting. Basically you end up with an axle that acts like it was assembled by a blind guy. This is the common cause for the "Dodge clunk" heard when shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa. In my opinion, the correct fix is a D60 swap as I scrap every 9 1/4" I get my hands on. But you can get by with a solid pinion spacer kit to replace the pinion bearings and over-torquing the backlash adjusters. The other issue is the center pin coming out and trying to exit the housing which locks the rear. Not much you can do about that other than keep an eye on it and whenever it starts making noise or acting weird, pull the cover and check things out.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

Thanks!

All that seems to jive with what I saw on the truck.

What is the fix for the cracked head problem?

 

[Elwenil]

Thanks!

All that seems to jive with what I saw on the truck.

What is the fix for the cracked head problem?

Replace the heads. Aluminum aftermarket heads are an option, but probably not worth the cost for what you are doing.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

9 1/4" axles have a weak crush sleeve to preload the pinion that will eventually cause the pinion to lose preload and eat the pinion bearing, seal and then the ring and pinion set. The backlash adjustment is retained by a couple little clips that do very little and it will eventually lose the backlash setting. Basically you end up with an axle that acts like it was assembled by a blind guy. This is the common cause for the "Dodge clunk" heard when shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa. In my opinion, the correct fix is a D60 swap as I scrap every 9 1/4" I get my hands on. But you can get by with a solid pinion spacer kit to replace the pinion bearings and over-torquing the backlash adjusters. The other issue is the center pin coming out and trying to exit the housing which locks the rear. Not much you can do about that other than keep an eye on it and whenever it starts making noise or acting weird, pull the cover and check things out.

Thanks for the info! Will take a good look at it and keep an axle swap on the back burner.

Keep the info coming.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

Replace the heads. Aluminum aftermarket heads are an option, but probably not worth the cost for what you are doing.

I guess I asked the question wrong.

Do all factory heads have issues with cracking?

If so, is there a way to mitigate that issue without spending money on aftermarket?

If not, which factory heads should I be looking for?

I guess if the bottom end checks out, I can just take care of the top and spend the saved money on other parts of the ugly bitch.

The loose gestamation of what to do.

Test in this order: look at it and drink beer, coolant pressure, cylinder leak down, compression and oil pressure.

I'm not planning to build anything crazy. Get it running good and reliable, pretty it up if I can, replace anything that's broke with better within budget and go.

 

[TRINDU]

I doubt the bottom end is good to go sitting in a coolant milkshake. Or maybe youre the guy who polishes with emery cloth and bearing slap.

Good news is you have 3.92s.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

I doubt the bottom end is good to go sitting in a coolant milkshake. Or maybe youre the guy who polishes with emery cloth and bearing slap.

Good news is you have 3.92s.

A couple layers of aluminum foil will tighten her right up. Isn't that how everyone adjusts bearing clearance?

Dipstick was showing mud almost 2 feet up so at least she ain't running dry.

If it holds compression and oil pressure I could pull some caps and inspect/plastigauge bearings.
Unfortunately I doubt I'll be so lucky.

How big a tire can I run with 3.92s?
Thornbirds still the best in the business?

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

So I'm thinking of selling the enduro to help fund this project and free up a little space. I don't want to. I never ride it. Think I can get around 2k for it. I may be way off on that.
What say you irate rapscallions? I'm torn on the thought.

It's a 1975 Yamaha dt250. 2,500 miles. Good shape.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

I also ordered a book for the transmission incase we go down that road.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

It's loaded up and on its way to it's new home.
Going to bring some tools home to help figure out why the fluids are commingled.

 

[AK_F250]

A couple layers of aluminum foil will tighten her right up. Isn't that how everyone adjusts bearing clearance?

Beer cans got my cash for clunkers s10 from a trailer in the Walmart parking lot to the Chevy dealership a block away

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

She's in the driveway. Pumped up the cooling system to 19 psi. Looked it over for 5 or 10 and it was back down to 0psi. Done for the night.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

With the coolant pressure test not showing anything glaring beside bleeding down and the crankcase full of coolant, what is the next check?

I'm thinking cylinder leak down test or pull valve covers and pressurize cooling system and look for cracks on top of head leaking coolant.

Where are these heads known to crack?

What say you all?

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

Got a minute to drink beer and mess with it last night.
Fired it up to get the nose facing the garage. No knocking and factory gauge showed good oil pressure. Who knows how accurate it is.

Had coolant dripping out the exhaust at a joint near the y pipe. Previous owner claimed there was coolant in the 2nd cylinder from the front on the driver side so I started there. Hooked up leak down tester, set cylinder to tdc on compression and topped off the radiator. Air blasted out the radiator cap.
So I started to tear it apart.

also drained the oil. Got about 3 gallons out of her.

I think it was kinda hydrolocked when I started it so maybe will find a bent rod or two.


The plan is to get the heads off tonight and give everything a good lookin at.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

Pic dump.

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

It was dark and I am tired so I didn't look to close by the time I got the heads off. Only thing I noticed was the driver side head gasket blue paint was apparently burned off the on the head side.

Anyone notice anything in the pics? I figured I would see something fairly obvious.

Thanks!

 

[Ugly pumpkin]

Another thing I noticed was the head and intake bolts did not appear new. The gaskets were new. Failed bolts and gaskets?

Thoughts?

 

[MoparMan]

Looks like the water jacket on the right in this pic might either have a crack between it and the combustion chamber, or the gasket failed and was leaking right there. But to have that much water in the oil I think you've got bigger problems than that.

 

[crispins]

that motor has to be wiped out with that amount of coolant in the oil.

I gave up a long time ago trying to look at heads to see what is wrong with them.

I just send them to the machine shop and let them tell me if they are worth fixing or not.

If I was you I would be looking to rebuild that engine or find a replacement one.