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MCI 102-C3 coach to RV - General/Floorplan
- Thread starter JNHEscher
- Start date
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Elwenil said,
Cools deal on the windows. I hadn't considered them being emergency exits but now that I think about it, a bus would have to have them somewhere. It wouldn't bee too hard to add a crank mechanism to make them open varying amounts and hold them closed when needed. That or just one of the rod mechanisms to prop them open.
Cools deal on the windows. I hadn't considered them being emergency exits but now that I think about it, a bus would have to have them somewhere. It wouldn't bee too hard to add a crank mechanism to make them open varying amounts and hold them closed when needed. That or just one of the rod mechanisms to prop them open.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Starting all the seating from scratch. The factory seats make for a rather narrow center aisle. We pulled the last seat today to make way for removing more aluminum strips and paneling.
I like the crank idea, Elwenil. That's probably what I'll go with. Probably something with a worm gear along the bottom of the window. I brought out some wooden broomsticks to use as prop rods and they're the perfect length for propping the windows open almost 90 degrees.
I like the crank idea, Elwenil. That's probably what I'll go with. Probably something with a worm gear along the bottom of the window. I brought out some wooden broomsticks to use as prop rods and they're the perfect length for propping the windows open almost 90 degrees.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Tonight's posts are intended as pictorial assistance for those that are preparing to strip their MCI and want to know what it takes to remove the overhead storage. I did quite a bit of searching prior to our bus purchase to find out what I had ahead of me. There's a lot of missing information and some of us have a desire to be as prepared as possible. So, here it goes.
Pardon my crappy photos. You'll notice that my phone gradually blurs the picture from left to right or bottom to top, depending on which direction I take the picture.
#1
We had already removed all of the doors, but you can see how they attached. Remove the three Phillips screws that attach the strut support bracket to the door. Your struts are likely blown anyway. Then remove the 11 Phillips screws retaining the door to the stainless steel hinge. Door removal is done.
#2 and #3
A close-up and blurry view of one of the four Phillips screws that hold the upper panel which the door was attached to, and my fingers touching two of those screws. Don't worry. When you take these screws out, the panel won't fall on you. You grasp the panel from the back of it and swing it down and towards you about 90 degrees. You then push or lift it upwards, off of the lip that it hangs from. That's done with.
Pardon my crappy photos. You'll notice that my phone gradually blurs the picture from left to right or bottom to top, depending on which direction I take the picture.
#1
We had already removed all of the doors, but you can see how they attached. Remove the three Phillips screws that attach the strut support bracket to the door. Your struts are likely blown anyway. Then remove the 11 Phillips screws retaining the door to the stainless steel hinge. Door removal is done.
#2 and #3
A close-up and blurry view of one of the four Phillips screws that hold the upper panel which the door was attached to, and my fingers touching two of those screws. Don't worry. When you take these screws out, the panel won't fall on you. You grasp the panel from the back of it and swing it down and towards you about 90 degrees. You then push or lift it upwards, off of the lip that it hangs from. That's done with.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#4, #5, and #6
Looking inside of a storage bin, you'll see two several Phillips screws around the perimeter of an angled back panel and the bottom panel. Taking the back panel screws out will allow you to lift that panel out. You can go ahead and remove the bottom panel screws, but those are easier to pop out from the underside. You'll see further down in the posts.
Looking inside of a storage bin, you'll see two several Phillips screws around the perimeter of an angled back panel and the bottom panel. Taking the back panel screws out will allow you to lift that panel out. You can go ahead and remove the bottom panel screws, but those are easier to pop out from the underside. You'll see further down in the posts.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#7 and #8
If you have the passenger vent system with the squirrel cage blowers in the most forward bin, you can take the four nuts off that hold those down and pull them out after the door attachment panel is out of the way. Those nuts are 7/16" or 11mm. Two in front and two in back. You can see my socket wrench behind the blower that's sitting on one of the rear nuts.
Once the blowers are out of the way, you'll have access to all of the Phillips screws on the inside of the end cap. The three or four screws (or 3/8" nuts) with large washer are what's holding the rubber-clad end cap on. If you have no intention of keeping and of the passenger light, PA speaker, or video wiring that runs through the overhead bin assembly, you can take ALL of those screws out of the end cap. They hold the junction blocks for all of that wiring.
If you have the passenger vent system with the squirrel cage blowers in the most forward bin, you can take the four nuts off that hold those down and pull them out after the door attachment panel is out of the way. Those nuts are 7/16" or 11mm. Two in front and two in back. You can see my socket wrench behind the blower that's sitting on one of the rear nuts.
Once the blowers are out of the way, you'll have access to all of the Phillips screws on the inside of the end cap. The three or four screws (or 3/8" nuts) with large washer are what's holding the rubber-clad end cap on. If you have no intention of keeping and of the passenger light, PA speaker, or video wiring that runs through the overhead bin assembly, you can take ALL of those screws out of the end cap. They hold the junction blocks for all of that wiring.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#9, #10, and #11
I already had the passenger console panels removed, but here you can see the square opening in the carpeted panels where they were. They're only held on with four Phillips screws. One at each corner. The TV's have a few Phillips holding a cover on. Take those out and you should find some screws holding their bracket to the console panel. The wire harnesses are pretty easy to disconnect. As with the power and video feed to the monitors. There is a voltage reducer for each monitor that you may need to cut the wires to.
In order to start sliding the console panels out, you need to pry a panel loose that is riveted to the front-most panel. This small panel in the end, behind where the end cap was, is just glued in with the siliconized adhesive that is used throughout the overheads to isolate vibrations. It's a bugger to pry out, but it'll go. You may need to take three bolts out that. One on the aisle side, which is a 7/16" with 7/16" nut, and two on the window side that are Phillips and 3/8" nut.
You can then begin sliding each console panel forward, out of the track that they are held in. Since they run into the windshield before they are completely out of the track, slide each one until you can bend it down at the console opening, then slide the panel the rest of the way out.
I already had the passenger console panels removed, but here you can see the square opening in the carpeted panels where they were. They're only held on with four Phillips screws. One at each corner. The TV's have a few Phillips holding a cover on. Take those out and you should find some screws holding their bracket to the console panel. The wire harnesses are pretty easy to disconnect. As with the power and video feed to the monitors. There is a voltage reducer for each monitor that you may need to cut the wires to.
In order to start sliding the console panels out, you need to pry a panel loose that is riveted to the front-most panel. This small panel in the end, behind where the end cap was, is just glued in with the siliconized adhesive that is used throughout the overheads to isolate vibrations. It's a bugger to pry out, but it'll go. You may need to take three bolts out that. One on the aisle side, which is a 7/16" with 7/16" nut, and two on the window side that are Phillips and 3/8" nut.
You can then begin sliding each console panel forward, out of the track that they are held in. Since they run into the windshield before they are completely out of the track, slide each one until you can bend it down at the console opening, then slide the panel the rest of the way out.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#12 and #13
With the carpeted console panels out of the way, you'll see the underside of the bottom storage bin panels. Use a pry bar, hammer, clenched fist, etc. to pop these up from underneath. The same silicone adhesive is used around the entire perimeter of these. All of these panels removed from the overheads are aluminum, by the way.
Edit: Adding this in because I forgot it last night.. With all these panels out, you can work on pulling the fluorescent bulb lenses next to the windows. Duck under the overhead and you'll see the polycarbonate diffuser lenses. There's an off-white plastic trim strip at the inner edge of the lenses. Start at one end or the other and pry one down. Once you have it started, you can yank it down by hand. The lenses will also pull down by hand if you grab each one by the end. Takes a little work, but they're not bad.
With the carpeted console panels out of the way, you'll see the underside of the bottom storage bin panels. Use a pry bar, hammer, clenched fist, etc. to pop these up from underneath. The same silicone adhesive is used around the entire perimeter of these. All of these panels removed from the overheads are aluminum, by the way.
Edit: Adding this in because I forgot it last night.. With all these panels out, you can work on pulling the fluorescent bulb lenses next to the windows. Duck under the overhead and you'll see the polycarbonate diffuser lenses. There's an off-white plastic trim strip at the inner edge of the lenses. Start at one end or the other and pry one down. Once you have it started, you can yank it down by hand. The lenses will also pull down by hand if you grab each one by the end. Takes a little work, but they're not bad.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#14
Every few bins, there is a divider panel that is held to the moulded plastic overhead frame piece with 6 Phillips screws. I already took ours out, but the cup in this picture would otherwise be sitting on the other side of it.
Every few bins, there is a divider panel that is held to the moulded plastic overhead frame piece with 6 Phillips screws. I already took ours out, but the cup in this picture would otherwise be sitting on the other side of it.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#15, #16, #17, and #18
With all the panels out of the way, you can get to the rubber-clad bumper pieces. On the backside of each are some studs with 3/8" nuts on them. Zip all those nuts of and you can rock the bumpers off the aluminum rail that they're mounted to. After you yank the bumpers off, you can take out the two 7/16" bolts that are in the frame pieces slots. I already had those bolts taken out in these pictures. You'll be able to drop the full length of that aluminum rail once the 7/16" bolts are out. There's a splice patch riveted in the middle of that rail that you can cut or break if you want to shorten it for easier maneuverability, if needed.
With all the panels out of the way, you can get to the rubber-clad bumper pieces. On the backside of each are some studs with 3/8" nuts on them. Zip all those nuts of and you can rock the bumpers off the aluminum rail that they're mounted to. After you yank the bumpers off, you can take out the two 7/16" bolts that are in the frame pieces slots. I already had those bolts taken out in these pictures. You'll be able to drop the full length of that aluminum rail once the 7/16" bolts are out. There's a splice patch riveted in the middle of that rail that you can cut or break if you want to shorten it for easier maneuverability, if needed.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#19 and #20
There is a bundle of wires that are held up with wire clamps that are riveted to the aluminum rail by the windows. I just used bolt cutters to split each clamp. I was then able to yank the wire out of the clamps. The clamps and rivets are also aluminum, so if you're taking all of this to scrap, no need to take the clamps off.
There is a bundle of wires that are held up with wire clamps that are riveted to the aluminum rail by the windows. I just used bolt cutters to split each clamp. I was then able to yank the wire out of the clamps. The clamps and rivets are also aluminum, so if you're taking all of this to scrap, no need to take the clamps off.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#21 and #22
As seen in the pictures in the last post, there are groups of four Phillips screws with 3/8" nuts that hold the broad aluminum rail to the plastic frames. The nut my thumb is on is one of many that attach the bottom rail to the broader rail. Go ahead and take all of those out. In these pictures, you can see the four Phillips on the backside to the plastic frame and all the 3/8" nuts removed.
As seen in the pictures in the last post, there are groups of four Phillips screws with 3/8" nuts that hold the broad aluminum rail to the plastic frames. The nut my thumb is on is one of many that attach the bottom rail to the broader rail. Go ahead and take all of those out. In these pictures, you can see the four Phillips on the backside to the plastic frame and all the 3/8" nuts removed.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#23 and #24
At this point, you can remove the rest of the hardware that is holding the plastic frames to the ceiling and wall rails. Looking above, you'll see four Phillips, and in back, four 3/8" nuts on t-bolts. You can now fight like hell to pull those plastic chunks out. The aluminum rail is riveted to the fluorescent light ballast mounting panels, which are also riveted to the wall rail that is bolted to the wall with torx head bolts. Might as well do what you can to pull the plastic frames out so that this all doesn't come crashing down together when you take the torx bolts out.
I also needed to mention that you can take the fluorescent bulbs out at any time.
At this point, you can remove the rest of the hardware that is holding the plastic frames to the ceiling and wall rails. Looking above, you'll see four Phillips, and in back, four 3/8" nuts on t-bolts. You can now fight like hell to pull those plastic chunks out. The aluminum rail is riveted to the fluorescent light ballast mounting panels, which are also riveted to the wall rail that is bolted to the wall with torx head bolts. Might as well do what you can to pull the plastic frames out so that this all doesn't come crashing down together when you take the torx bolts out.
I also needed to mention that you can take the fluorescent bulbs out at any time.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#25 and #26.
I didn't capture the best views of the ballast, but you'll see what I'm talking about. The ballasts (white boxes with wires) are held in with two Phillips screws each. The first two you'll find are easy to get to. The two screws near the windows require you to either push up on the aluminum rails in order to access them with a screw gun our use a bit wrench. The ballasts will slide up and drop out. Feel free to cut any wires you need to in order to get it all out of the way. There's more wire clamps holding this bundle in, but they're just fold-over clamps and you can give the wires a few yanks to pull them off the clamps.
I didn't capture the best views of the ballast, but you'll see what I'm talking about. The ballasts (white boxes with wires) are held in with two Phillips screws each. The first two you'll find are easy to get to. The two screws near the windows require you to either push up on the aluminum rails in order to access them with a screw gun our use a bit wrench. The ballasts will slide up and drop out. Feel free to cut any wires you need to in order to get it all out of the way. There's more wire clamps holding this bundle in, but they're just fold-over clamps and you can give the wires a few yanks to pull them off the clamps.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
#27 and #28
This part is up to you. You'll see that the rest of the aluminum rail assembly is all riveted together. We use some brute force with a hammer and pry bar to break the rivets on the first side, but you get by without messing with it. You may way to go ahead and cut through the suspended rail in the middle where you see a riveted splice patch just so you have two halves that are easier to handle once down.
If you want to just get done with it and drop the whole assembly, zip all the torx bolts that I'm pointing to. I forgot to look at what size bit. I'll add that tomorrow. Once the bolts are out, you'll need to use a pry bar to start peeling the assembly off the wall. There an adhesive strip behind it that is still holding it to the wall.
This part is up to you. You'll see that the rest of the aluminum rail assembly is all riveted together. We use some brute force with a hammer and pry bar to break the rivets on the first side, but you get by without messing with it. You may way to go ahead and cut through the suspended rail in the middle where you see a riveted splice patch just so you have two halves that are easier to handle once down.
If you want to just get done with it and drop the whole assembly, zip all the torx bolts that I'm pointing to. I forgot to look at what size bit. I'll add that tomorrow. Once the bolts are out, you'll need to use a pry bar to start peeling the assembly off the wall. There an adhesive strip behind it that is still holding it to the wall.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Last one
If you followed along with all that jargon and didn't lose too much skin, you'll have a clean view such as this. And last but not least, there's that aluminum channel above you that the top of the plastic frames where screwed to. There's only four bolts holding each rail up. 5/8", I think they were. They shouldn't fall on you, either. Same thing. Adhesive tape holding them up and you need to pry at them a bit. Watch your noggin.
If you followed along with all that jargon and didn't lose too much skin, you'll have a clean view such as this. And last but not least, there's that aluminum channel above you that the top of the plastic frames where screwed to. There's only four bolts holding each rail up. 5/8", I think they were. They shouldn't fall on you, either. Same thing. Adhesive tape holding them up and you need to pry at them a bit. Watch your noggin.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Back to it. I managed to get all of the painted ceiling panels down, exposing the fiberglass batting, all of the left side carpeted panels and all of the stainless air ducting off. Right side panels are off. Gotta do some cleanup and fight a seized bolt tomorrow to strip the rest of the right side. Also, pulled up the engine access and admired one large Garrett turbo on top of a supercharger.
And for a taste of the view out here - sunset on light snow over the tail of the Sangre De Cristo mountains while leaving the bus.
And for a taste of the view out here - sunset on light snow over the tail of the Sangre De Cristo mountains while leaving the bus.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
[email protected] said,
JNHEscher said:
Got it for $7,500. It is in fact DDEC. I'm not sure yet if it's the I or II version. It smokes a bunch upon cold start, but I'm going to be tracking down the source of the oil next week along with beginning my plans to rid this rig of all the backyard mechanic add-ons that it received. The air box drains have hydraulic lines hooked to them and somebody ran them uphill higher than the supercharger. Haven't really figured accurate mpg just yet since I've only driven it from Dallas to home with an inaccurate speedometer swapped from some other bus.
For the hydronic floor, the basic idea is steel strap and thick fender washers welded to and sandwiched in between steel sheet. I'm wanting to go with Evan's waterless, but the entire system would need nearly a full drum and that runs around $2,500. Ouch. Peak PG may be better.
There will be a beefy hitch to tow whatever get-around vehicle we have. A front-mount bike rack, as well. The intercity versions of these has OE bike racks. I may be able to find one cheap through the Denver auctions.
Why evans? It's basically just straight ethylene glycol antifreeze without water for x10 the price and 25% less heat capacity. Just use regular 50:50 antifreeze and water mix.Got it for $7,500. It is in fact DDEC. I'm not sure yet if it's the I or II version. It smokes a bunch upon cold start, but I'm going to be tracking down the source of the oil next week along with beginning my plans to rid this rig of all the backyard mechanic add-ons that it received. The air box drains have hydraulic lines hooked to them and somebody ran them uphill higher than the supercharger. Haven't really figured accurate mpg just yet since I've only driven it from Dallas to home with an inaccurate speedometer swapped from some other bus.
For the hydronic floor, the basic idea is steel strap and thick fender washers welded to and sandwiched in between steel sheet. I'm wanting to go with Evan's waterless, but the entire system would need nearly a full drum and that runs around $2,500. Ouch. Peak PG may be better.
There will be a beefy hitch to tow whatever get-around vehicle we have. A front-mount bike rack, as well. The intercity versions of these has OE bike racks. I may be able to find one cheap through the Denver auctions.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
aczlan said,
[email protected] said:
Why evans? It's basically just straight ethylene glycol antifreeze without water for x10 the price and 25% less heat capacity. Just use regular 50:50 antifreeze and water mix.
And a MSDS (sorry, that should be SDS now) to show this: Why evans? It's basically just straight ethylene glycol antifreeze without water for x10 the price and 25% less heat capacity. Just use regular 50:50 antifreeze and water mix.
http://www.hrpworld.com/store/media...G+C - Evans High Performance Waterless Engine %20Coolant%20-%20SDS.pdf said:
3. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Chemical Name ******* CAS No **** Weight%
Ethylene glycol ******* 107-21-1 *** 80-85%
2-Ethylhexanoic acid ** 149-57-5 *** <1
Sodium Nitrate ******* 7631-99-4 ** <1
To compare, "PRESTONE ® ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT" 3. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Chemical Name ******* CAS No **** Weight%
Ethylene glycol ******* 107-21-1 *** 80-85%
2-Ethylhexanoic acid ** 149-57-5 *** <1
Sodium Nitrate ******* 7631-99-4 ** <1
https://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pd...5c826e2082.pdf said:
3. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
3. Composition/Information On Ingredients
Component ******************** CAS No. **** Amount
Ethylene Glycol ***************** 107-21-1 *** 75-95%
2-Ethyl Hexanoic Acid, Sodium Salt ** 19766-89-3 ** 1-5%
Neodecanoic Acid, Sodium Salt ***** 31548-27-3 ** 1-5%
Diethylene Glycol *************** 111-46-6 **** 0-5%
Aaron Z3. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
3. Composition/Information On Ingredients
Component ******************** CAS No. **** Amount
Ethylene Glycol ***************** 107-21-1 *** 75-95%
2-Ethyl Hexanoic Acid, Sodium Salt ** 19766-89-3 ** 1-5%
Neodecanoic Acid, Sodium Salt ***** 31548-27-3 ** 1-5%
Diethylene Glycol *************** 111-46-6 **** 0-5%
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
The reasoning for Evan's was particularly in consideration of the engine. The Detroit two-strokes with the two side radiators like to get hot really quickly when under heavy load. Had it happen to me while coming up the mountain pass while bringing this home. It runs between 175 and 180 degrees. At 200, the DDEC shuts it off completely.
I've been watching a number of racers and heavy duty equipment outfits running Evan's for quite a while now and they've had nothing but great reviews. It relieves heat from the water jackets much more effectively and doesn't build pressure in the system. Of course, they all have either sponsors or company funding to pay the price of this stuff.
That being said, I would love to run it in this. Alas, a good look over the cooling system makes me think otherwise. The number of coolant hoses make for a dreadful number of leak points. After the shutdown on the pass and bringing it to single-digit temps, I found out. A lot of the metal contracted and every hose leaked. Barfed out about 5 gallons next to the curb overnight. I need to replace all of the hoses and upgrade the clamps. I will say that I'm thankful it wasn't Evan's $50 per gallon coolant that leaked. Enough about that, though. 50/50 is more likely. The whole system will need around 40 gallons.
I still need to take absolute measurements of the floor so I can dial in the amount of metal required to make this. At the initial 40 feet that I drew the floor at, the design takes 20 gallons. The interior floor length is closer to 34 feet. The engine's system will tie in with a small, regulated orifice to supply heated coolant to the floor while driving. The L5 tankless heater will supply it while parked. I figured I would make the outlet from the floor run through the engine to keep it relatively warm during the frozen season, but with the engine being rather open to the elements, that may waste a fair amount of LP to keep the entire loop warm enough. Thoughts on routing the L5 waste exhaust heat against the engine block and keeping the tankless heat exchanger use to strictly the floor? I know that LP exhaust carries quite a bit of steam. This could be beneficial or detrimental. I need to think it through some more. A nice, winter steam cleaning of the block as a byproduct of the idea? I too am curious how much fuel this idea will use. I'll post up the floor design later this week for you guys to add your $0.02.
I've been watching a number of racers and heavy duty equipment outfits running Evan's for quite a while now and they've had nothing but great reviews. It relieves heat from the water jackets much more effectively and doesn't build pressure in the system. Of course, they all have either sponsors or company funding to pay the price of this stuff.
That being said, I would love to run it in this. Alas, a good look over the cooling system makes me think otherwise. The number of coolant hoses make for a dreadful number of leak points. After the shutdown on the pass and bringing it to single-digit temps, I found out. A lot of the metal contracted and every hose leaked. Barfed out about 5 gallons next to the curb overnight. I need to replace all of the hoses and upgrade the clamps. I will say that I'm thankful it wasn't Evan's $50 per gallon coolant that leaked. Enough about that, though. 50/50 is more likely. The whole system will need around 40 gallons.
I still need to take absolute measurements of the floor so I can dial in the amount of metal required to make this. At the initial 40 feet that I drew the floor at, the design takes 20 gallons. The interior floor length is closer to 34 feet. The engine's system will tie in with a small, regulated orifice to supply heated coolant to the floor while driving. The L5 tankless heater will supply it while parked. I figured I would make the outlet from the floor run through the engine to keep it relatively warm during the frozen season, but with the engine being rather open to the elements, that may waste a fair amount of LP to keep the entire loop warm enough. Thoughts on routing the L5 waste exhaust heat against the engine block and keeping the tankless heat exchanger use to strictly the floor? I know that LP exhaust carries quite a bit of steam. This could be beneficial or detrimental. I need to think it through some more. A nice, winter steam cleaning of the block as a byproduct of the idea? I too am curious how much fuel this idea will use. I'll post up the floor design later this week for you guys to add your $0.02.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
aczlan said:
And a MSDS (sorry, that should be SDS now) to show this:
To compare, "PRESTONE ® ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT"
Aaron Z
Indeed. I did an MSDS comparison a couple months ago. Not much reason at all to dump that much money into coolant for this project. Evan's looked like a miracle cure for a while. Too much to risk if a hose pops off and we lose two grand worth of a critical fluid.And a MSDS (sorry, that should be SDS now) to show this:
To compare, "PRESTONE ® ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT"
Aaron Z
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Some more exciting window action. Looked like a nice shot to show everyone. Google only comes up with a few MCI's with their windows open and none open this high.
A shot to show the stainless air duct that is screwed to the plywood floor along its bottom lip. All those screws rust and the wood softens. I just pried it up with my flat bar. The ducts slip right out of the rail lip at the top.
All ceiling panels are down with the exception of the panel over the driver and the center panel hanging from the glued upholstery. Those centers are actually nice pieces. Right around 4'x4', so I'll hang on to them in case I want to make something with alu. I should be pulling the fiberglass batting out tomorrow. Overall structure looks pretty stout.
A shot to show the stainless air duct that is screwed to the plywood floor along its bottom lip. All those screws rust and the wood softens. I just pried it up with my flat bar. The ducts slip right out of the rail lip at the top.
All ceiling panels are down with the exception of the panel over the driver and the center panel hanging from the glued upholstery. Those centers are actually nice pieces. Right around 4'x4', so I'll hang on to them in case I want to make something with alu. I should be pulling the fiberglass batting out tomorrow. Overall structure looks pretty stout.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Java said:
Very cool, I would still look into something other than the Ecotemp for water heating. From the skoolie people they don't seem to like prolonged use. A used esapr cant be too much $$, but finding one near you may be hard.
I'll check out the Espar some more. I've already taken the L5 apart to check out the build quality. It's such a simple design that I could fix just about anything on it within minutes. I've been watching the skoolie scene for a year or so and I find that most people aren't in to opening up manufactured units to do their own mods or repairs. Very cool, I would still look into something other than the Ecotemp for water heating. From the skoolie people they don't seem to like prolonged use. A used esapr cant be too much $$, but finding one near you may be hard.
Grendel said:
I'd invest in hoses and clamps for that thing, before I went into anything else but coolant.
The system was so over designed, it's not funny.
No kidding. I looked around the engine bay some more today and I'd say there's a lot to improve upon. Since I'm removing the factory heating system, I'll be using what coolant I drain from that to top off what leaked. Next time I'm at the bus, I'll start measuring hose sizes. A lot of them can be replaced with stuff in stock at Silicone Intakes in Colorado Springs.I'd invest in hoses and clamps for that thing, before I went into anything else but coolant.
The system was so over designed, it's not funny.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
DE Jeeper said,
As a example our espar with the valve heats the heater/ hot water plate loop in less then 10 minutes to 120*. That loop probably has about 2 gal in it. Then it takes about 5 hrs to heat the 14l mass of a motor up to 120* and thats about 10 gal. This was at an ambient temp of 20-30*F. The unit at full bore uses .2gal/hr but its usually on low or medium because it circulates like a boiler. We can hold 280 gal of fuel and only 40lb of propane so our choice was clear.
The kicker is the unit ws $1200. That buys a few of those instahots and a fair amount of propane.
As a example our espar with the valve heats the heater/ hot water plate loop in less then 10 minutes to 120*. That loop probably has about 2 gal in it. Then it takes about 5 hrs to heat the 14l mass of a motor up to 120* and thats about 10 gal. This was at an ambient temp of 20-30*F. The unit at full bore uses .2gal/hr but its usually on low or medium because it circulates like a boiler. We can hold 280 gal of fuel and only 40lb of propane so our choice was clear.
The kicker is the unit ws $1200. That buys a few of those instahots and a fair amount of propane.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
The L5 is still looking like the winner. We got it for $60. Only thing wrong with it was somebody didn't drain the water valve prior to leaving it in freezing temperatures, which cracked the valve housing. This, however, is no problem. I don't want the floor system to be pressurized and had planned to bypass whatever it was that required pressure to make the heater operate. All I had to do was make a block-off plate.
The switch wires from the water valve will instead connect to the thermostat. The only electrical powered needed for the system comes from the two batteries used for the heater. I do have two small DC, brushless pumps for this if needed. I'll talk on that more in a couple days.
The switch wires from the water valve will instead connect to the thermostat. The only electrical powered needed for the system comes from the two batteries used for the heater. I do have two small DC, brushless pumps for this if needed. I'll talk on that more in a couple days.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
I've worked with a lot of fiberglass over the years. Cutting wood with power tools and kicking up fiberglass in this arid environment of southern Colorado, though, can take your breath away in seconds. A few coughs in and you can no longer breathe when you inhale dry dusts, here. So, I am not looking forward to pulling this.
I have an unused bunny suit, a respirator, and a shop vac. I'm going to mod the vacuum so that the inlet is submersed in water to catch the suspended glass floating around in the bus. Then next day out there will be spent getting prepared to pull all the batting and toss it into the trailer as fast as I can. I know I'm making this sound like a lethal endeavor, but in all seriousness, it's no exaggeration during the winter season where we drop as low as 15% humidity.
I have an unused bunny suit, a respirator, and a shop vac. I'm going to mod the vacuum so that the inlet is submersed in water to catch the suspended glass floating around in the bus. Then next day out there will be spent getting prepared to pull all the batting and toss it into the trailer as fast as I can. I know I'm making this sound like a lethal endeavor, but in all seriousness, it's no exaggeration during the winter season where we drop as low as 15% humidity.
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Had time to tear down the back wall while my wife separated steel from the aluminum pile today. Can't really complain about the hack job bathroom delete because I've heard from everyone that has removed the bathroom that the job is the reason for cursing for a week straight. Still, there are some folks that shouldn't take on certain tasks, as shown here.
After peeling all the layers off, we looked it over and discussed plans. I'm going to move the turbo intake piping to the right side to clean that up, make more interior space, and make air filter changes much easier. I'll able to cut out the OE framing and the "custom" addition and push them back about a foot or so, extending the floor.
The water tank for the former bathroom sink was the first thing I uncovered. More scrap metal! There's going to a be hell of a copper haul coming up. Where the water tank and the air filter housing inlet piping sit will offer some awesome shelving space for our bedroom. You can see the engine bay air evacuation contraption the mechanic built sitting underneath where the toilet was and where the black tank once sat. What in world that spilled intestine-looking squirt of expanding foam was supposed to be, I don't know. They filled the toilet drain hole. People and their excitement with aerosol cans..
After peeling all the layers off, we looked it over and discussed plans. I'm going to move the turbo intake piping to the right side to clean that up, make more interior space, and make air filter changes much easier. I'll able to cut out the OE framing and the "custom" addition and push them back about a foot or so, extending the floor.
The water tank for the former bathroom sink was the first thing I uncovered. More scrap metal! There's going to a be hell of a copper haul coming up. Where the water tank and the air filter housing inlet piping sit will offer some awesome shelving space for our bedroom. You can see the engine bay air evacuation contraption the mechanic built sitting underneath where the toilet was and where the black tank once sat. What in world that spilled intestine-looking squirt of expanding foam was supposed to be, I don't know. They filled the toilet drain hole. People and their excitement with aerosol cans..
JNHEscher
Red Skull Member
Couple good shots from my wife. Good view of the back wall opened up. Also, how the gargantuan intake pipe wraps from the left side, around and behind the turbo, and then heads down the to bottom of the left side of the engine bay. Looks like a good place to heat soak. Occupies quite a bit of space, too.
