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Looking for a new coyote gun help me pick.

Too Russian. I don't know about the shoulder angle, maybe it's better with ARC, or it's the whole 6.5 Creedmoor is the bestest ever, while over in the corner .260 Rem quietly raises it's hand.
I think 22ppc was what I had in mind, just looked and the 220 russian has the steep case taper of the x39
Already too long with the suppressor on the end.
nonsense, you always need a longer musket
 
I’m just gonna say that 20” 6.5 PRCs are killing elks at really long distances. A small bore, shorter barrel rifle is going to have no prob smoking a dog at thermal ranges.
 
I think 22ppc was what I had in mind, just looked and the 220 russian has the steep case taper of the x39
That's what I thought, just couldnt' remember exactly.

I have a Seekins DMR in 6ARC and it feeds reliably. Beats up the brass, but I've got a grip of Lapua 6.5 Grendel I'm converting which should solve that issue.

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I’m just gonna say that 20” 6.5 PRCs are killing elks at really long distances. A small bore, shorter barrel rifle is going to have no prob smoking a dog at thermal ranges.
Those PRC cartridges are designed well.

Took a long range class at Frontsight back in the day, and dude shows up all the way from Florida with a custom 6.5CM chambered chassis rifle. On the first day, he couldn't get the rounds to chamber. I noticed his struggles and flagged one of the instructors down and pointed out his struggles. Yeah, he brought 800 rounds of 6.5 PRC ELD-M ammo, so he had to go to the ammo bunker and an pay like $2 a round for American Gunner or such. Whoops.
 
Blasphemy.

Different tools for different jobs. I haven't hunted deer or elk in a long time, gave up trying to get tags here in AZ, but if I did pull tags, I'd put my 6.5 CM Tikka T3 CTR back in it's stock, attach a lightweight sling and go with a lighter scope. As it sits now it's got a 24" barrel with a can on it, a heavy-ass Vortex Razor scope and in a KRG chassis, probably 17-18 lbs, while if I put it back into the stock and with a MK5HD it would be more like 11-12. Makes a difference humping it over hills, but not in a PRS match.

I wouldnt even want to pack around a ctr for hunting:laughing:

I have a sendero in a KRG. But everything else is lighter weight and I really prefer my barrels to be between 18" and 18.0625":grinpimp: Light an handy.
 
I wouldnt even want to pack around a ctr for hunting:laughing:

I have a sendero in a KRG. But everything else is lighter weight and I really prefer my barrels to be between 18" and 18.0625":grinpimp: Light an handy.
What barrel profile would you recommend if I was looking at 22” and I want to hang a can off the end of it? Different answers for carbon and steel/stainless are ok.
 
I assume that you set the head space by the amount you thread the barrel into the receiver. So do you set up each barrel then remove it to etch the caliber on the barrel?
I thread, then set the headspace when reaming the chamber. This is a pre-fit barrel for a Fuzion action. I made a fixture that allows me to clock the markings where they need to be.
 
I thread, then set the headspace when reaming the chamber. This is a pre-fit barrel for a Fuzion action. I made a fixture that allows me to clock the markings where they need to be.

ok ill bite. Whose blank are you using? Did you do the fluting? what barrel contour is that?


maybe i need a 3rd barrel, as a spare spare. PM me and we can work it out if you have time to do the work. im sure you are busy. obviously ill have to send you the action and switchlug.
 
ok ill bite. Whose blank are you using? Did you do the fluting? what barrel contour is that?


maybe i need a 3rd barrel, as a spare spare. PM me and we can work it out if you have time to do the work. im sure you are busy. obviously ill have to send you the action and switchlug.
It’s a Benchmark blank, and they did the fluting. I believe it is a BH Varmint contour.

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It’s a Benchmark blank, and they did the fluting. I believe it is a BH Varmint contour.

IMG_6636.jpeg
I replaced the factory Tikka barrel with a Preferred pre-fit, and it hammers. Had to do a relief cut to get the factory barrel out, those Fins' put some umph on the receiver when they leave the factory.
 
I replaced the factory Tikka barrel with a Preferred pre-fit, and it hammers. Had to do a relief cut to get the factory barrel out, those Fins' put some umph on the receiver when they leave the factory.
I’ve popped a bunch of T3 factory barrels off recently. I have not had an issue, but I keep hearing about how difficult they are. Maybe I’m doing something different.
 
I’ve popped a bunch of T3 factory barrels off recently. I have not had an issue, but I keep hearing about how difficult they are. Maybe I’m doing something different.

Heating the action to 1200F yields great results on removing barrels. They spin off super easy
 
Heating the action to 1200F yields great results on removing barrels. They spin off super easy
lol. I think most people have issues with the smaller diameter Tikka barrels, with almost zero parallel shank to grip. As soon as slips, your barrel vise spits the barrel out.
 
Heating the action to 1200F yields great results on removing barrels. They spin off super easy

lol. I think most people have issues with the smaller diameter Tikka barrels, with almost zero parallel shank to grip. As soon as slips, your barrel vise spits the barrel out.

The barrel was shot out, 2700 or so rounds in PRS will do that, so I wasn't worried about the barrel, but damn sure didn't want to damage the receiver, so it was just more practical to make the cut.
 
This Benchmark blank will become a 22 Creedmoor for a Lone Peak Fuzion. It’ll be used with thermal and a suppressor for coyote duty.
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I love the spiral flitting on that barrel. Curious, how much weight is removed on that barrel?
 
22cal is legal in plenty of states though. Been a while since I looked at the regs, but as far as I remember. I can legally kill everything in oregon with the exception of elk with a 22 hornet if I wanted to. Gotta bump it up to the mighty 243 for one of those beasts :laughing:

Run the right bullets and that 223 is more capable than most folks think
Here it just has to be a center fire round to harvest white tail deer (we do have elk and they do have hunts for those but I don’t know what the details or requirements are for them as I’m not interested in hunting them in my state). But just because you can legally harvest a white tail with a .223/5.56 doesn’t mean it’s a good idea to do. Sure, a well placed neck shot will bring a deer down but I’m more a trophy hunter on our farm so neck shots are out. I’m also not interested in tracking a blood trail for miles if I hit a bone with a .223/5.56 either. IMO leave the .223/5.56 for dog/hog hunting.
 
But just because you can legally harvest a white tail with a .223/5.56 doesn’t mean it’s a good idea to do. Sure, a well placed neck shot will bring a deer down but I’m more a trophy hunter on our farm so neck shots are out. I’m also not interested in tracking a blood trail for miles if I hit a bone with a .223/5.56 either. IMO leave the .223/5.56 for dog/hog hunting.

I suppose an 85gr 243 is plenty fine though?


Look at what a 73-77gr bullet is actually doing. Run a decent bullet and you will be surprised.

Gotta sift through a lil bit of drama at first. But heres a hell of a thread, if you wanna get your eyes opened


 
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Here it just has to be a center fire round to harvest white tail deer (we do have elk and they do have hunts for those but I don’t know what the details or requirements are for them as I’m not interested in hunting them in my state). But just because you can legally harvest a white tail with a .223/5.56 doesn’t mean it’s a good idea to do. Sure, a well placed neck shot will bring a deer down but I’m more a trophy hunter on our farm so neck shots are out. I’m also not interested in tracking a blood trail for miles if I hit a bone with a .223/5.56 either. IMO leave the .223/5.56 for dog/hog hunting.

im not sure i know really where to begin.

223 is just fine for whitetail deer, they arent heavily armored rhinos or anything like that. they are light-skinned animals, and as such a 60 grained Nosler doing 3100 FPS will kill them. same goes for hunting bullet constructions of heavier grains. and tracking should be short and easy.

now, as a self-avowed trophy hunter that you are, you SHOULD know the easiest and fastest way to break down a monster buck is the front shoulder. mid-shoulder and back 6 inches in the lower 7/16th of the body cavity is kill zone. you want to hit bone in that shoulder, as that 223 will easily break that leg and cause a large wound channel. you can actually hear the bone give way when you hit them there. with anything other than FMJ, you will have expansion and a dead deer. you break that front shoulder, its very likely DRT. i have also hit them there with FMJ and its dead.

if you miss the shoulder a little to the rear, heart and lungs are all gone.


these are just facts.
 
Every time I hear "you can't/shouldn't use a .22 caliber/.223 for whitetail deer hunting", I just roll my eyes.:shaking:
As I kid, I used a .222 with 63 gr. spire points for deer hunting.
Then I used a .243 with 75 gr HP for a few years.
Then I used a .223 AR with 52 gr HP for probably 25 years.
Currently, I use a .224 Valkyrie AR with 69 gr HP.
I won't say I never lost a deer or had one run that I had to trail with any of those guns. But I will say in most cases the deer was DRT. I hunt northern MO. While they aren't the largest whitetails in the country, they are not the size of dogs either. I body shoot most of my deer. Up until the last several years, we would do a lot of deer pushing, so my shots were on running deer, so it is just easier to hit them in a vital part of the body, instead of the neck.
As anyone with any intelligence about hunting/firearms knows, it is about bullet selection and shot placement.
Yeah, you can go for the bigger calibers and heavier bullets that will kill by the shock of the bullet hitting the deer, pretty much no matter where you hit them. But if you were a better shot, you wouldn't have to. And unfortunately a lot of hunters shoot one time a year...during deer season...and they are marginal shots at that. So I can see why some places have minimum caliber restrictions.
 
.204 Ruger works.
.17 Remington works.
Again, bullets and shot placement.:flipoff2:

I have been thinking about getting a .204 (not for deer hunting...for coyote and other varmint type hunting). Dad has one and it shoots damn good.
 
.204 Ruger works.
.17 Remington works.
Again, bullets and shot placement.:flipoff2:

I have been thinking about getting a .204 (not for deer hunting...for coyote and other varmint type hunting). Dad has one and it shoots damn good.
Poachers are infamous for using .22lr for deer.
 
22 magnum, i thought
Maybe so, I just got that from one of those semi-docu shows where they follow a game ranger around, and they get this kid that has a whole cellar full of antlers, and no tags, and he was using a 22lr according to the game warden. With a big enough can, even a really hot 22lr is going to be very quiet and one shot would be hard to pinpoint location. I'm going to be doing some suppressor testing with a local instructor and I'll see how much difference there is between my little Ruger Ti can and my Socom, with HV ammo.
 
I vote .243 Winchester.

I have a .204 and it is the best for prairie dogs at <300 but the wind moves that little stinger a foot easily in a normal Wyoming day.
I started varmit hunting with a .223 but wanted some more speed so along came the .204.

I switch back and forth depending on the day but have killed more coyotes with the .243.

Bullet technology hasn’t really moved much in the last 50 years. You want high horsepower Roy Weatherby already has a round for you.

You want the latest trend the 6.5 whatever and the .204 Ruger are the darlings.
 
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