LJ in Flux

[FLUX]

Was a member of the old "other" site. I have a thread on another forum that I am adding here.

Sold my YJ, tons , stretch, sbc etc yada yada lol and found this!

A 2004 khaki LJ. I always loved these when they first came out so this was a win.
Recent rebuilt auto tranny, 4" RC lift, hard top, dented import front bumper, almost new general grabber 33's, full doors, factory soft top, faded wheels, semi bald spare, wide fender flares, but the paint was in great shape the frame was in great shape with zero rust and over all was not in bad shape. The catalytic converter was rattling so after a little negotiation it was my new ride!

It had the stock gears so over drive was not usable and with the cats rattling, compared to my last jeep it was as they say "slower then snake shit up a hill backwards". Maybe this is just a local term. lol. It was slow. Sooner then later I replaced the cats with the magna flow down pipe. Well fitting part that is not the most fun to replace but I would totally recommend. I did my research heading the warnings of jerry and blain on what O2 sensors and swapped them at the same time.

I was fixing small issues and really just enjoying driving it. I new I wanted to go with 35's well really 40's but we know where that goes so 35's. I picked up a used set of 35's for a smoking deal. The 4" lift with 35's looked great but O.M.G with the stock gears it was un-drivable. Sold the wheels and tires a few weeks later and slapped the 33's back on. I wasn't sure when I could install gears etc to make the 35's work.... and I wanted to drive it.

Had a weekend off so I built a aluminum front bumper. Nothing special, the plan was to make a winch tray that bolts over the top of the bumper. I still don't really know what I want to build, just got bored and had the material from another project. Oh and I installed a set of JK head lights. Maybe the beast mod to date. The factory headlights bring the suuuuuck.

Then I went camping with some friends.

Then a friend of mine backed into the front PS fender bumper area while I was at my brother in laws house. The insurance cut me a check to fix it. I figured the motor was tired with 185,000 on the ticker so I spent the cash on rebuilding the motor and some new Genright aluminum high-line front fenders. And here the slope begins lol. With the high-lines I figured I could do things in stages. so out came the motor and off to the rebuild shop.

I know 4" lift is the upper limits of being able to get a decent ride while on short arms, but I never really like the way it rode. The Ranch shocks made a difference but still not what I thought it could be. So I pulled the lift and put stock springs and shocks on to get a baseline of what it "could" ride like.

Rear tire, 33" full bump no lift.

I didn't take any pictures of this set up as it didn't last long. Plan now was 5:38's, 35's, 1.25" savvy body lift and 2.5 spring lift. And cuz the dana 30 front was never going to be in the mix I scored a 77 F-150 dana 44 front. Plans are to narrow this front axle to waggy width. Plans for now are to keep the stock motor and tranny, and I haven't done this before so....

 

[FLUX]

Cut all the Ford Brackets off, took a million measurements, cut the knuckles off, cut the tubes down, re-welded the knuckles on and installed the gears.

Time to install the rear gears cuz if I didn't mention it is slooooooow. Out with the old and 5 hours later and two sore shoulders in with the new. I choose to keep and rebuild the clutch rear LSD for now. I will go with a selectable if I ever find myself in the rocks. I just don't have those trails around me. I drove around with the 33's and 5:38's for a little while. Around town it was quite fun.

I considered the stroker route and in the end decided against it. I have already been down the motor swap rabbit hole and really like the reliability of a fresh 4.0. According to the machine shop the the motor is their HIPO, meaning it has a mild cam that doesn't mess with the stock computer and new cast iron head with larger valves. This is not a race motor, just intended to run well. Motor in running great, fenders on with stuff still zip tied to the inner fender wells, 2.5" skyjacker dual rate coil lift, JK wheels and 35" BFG's and garbage ebay body lift that has since split and been replaced with savvy, sometimes you learn some the hard way.

I always liked the mid arm lifts.......Saved some cash and went with the barnes enduro joints and could not pass up the artec coil bucket lower control arm kit. I couldn't really find a truss that net my needs, after taking measurements they all seemed like they would contact the oil pan at full stuff. And that's no good. So I got to cracking on the front axle for the swap.

First truss I built touched the oil pan at full stuff with 2" bump stop extension so I changed it to this. I have a 1/4" between the oil pan and truss to give some idea how other truss's on the market will interact with the oil pan.

 

[FLUX]

Had been working on these. Mid Arm Kit. I have been wanting to try this for a while. Only have the front brackets finished.

Track Bar Bracket.

And then then a few days of this stuff. Axle in, axle out, I like this oh I don't like that and what about this moments.

I ended up with something like this with a new lug pattern 5 on 5.5 Woohoo. Drives much better then any previous combo including stock. I haven't finished the steering to my liking. Right now the tie rod is below the knuckle with the drag link above. I am running the RC adjustable track bar with the ram 2500 bushing swamp and my frame bracket that does take some advantage of the extra length, but the drag link is a few inches longer then the track bar resulting in some mild bump steer. It is still like I said much better then stock but could still be a little better yet. Once I land on my toe and caster adjustments I will weld a bracket onto the tie rod and make the drag link the same length as the track bar. Maybe. lol. Drives really well now and nothing binds at full droop or stuff so.....and I need to do the rear! Step by step, whole goal is to be able to keep driving it with minimal down time while I build it. Plus its like a reverse mullet Party in the front and business in the back.

I have some ideas for a rear bumper so we'll see how that pans out. I am not really loving anything in the rear bumper category for the tj. I could be wrong but I seems like since the JK then JL have dropped most are focused on those models leaving the TJ/LJ alone. But Bumpers, rockers and corner guards are in the mix. I may finish those projects first then leave the rear 4 link till last. Its all in flux you know;) And I went camping again!

 

[FLUX]

Started working on a rear bumper in model land.

Started building one to see what works and what doesn't. Back up lights do not work here lol. and I was waiting on shackle material.

I’m redoing the front bumper and the light has to go. I use the amber feature more and like the look of the amber lens. I’ll let you know if they are a pos. Made some A pillar Brackets.

 

[FLUX]

started working on front bumper. Idea is to have a recessed looking winch tray. Don’t want it to look too bulky, also don’t want the super minimal look either. Needs to cover the body lift and swaybar.

Out with the Old

In with the New

 

[FLUX]

Then I changed the steering around with the help of Nashville TJ, great dude with lots to offer. I had my info backwards regarding my drag link.

Then I wanted backup lights that actually work. I am still working on corner guards so i didn't want to put much effort in but it worked well.
This is when you know your getting old LOL...Stoked about cheap well working backup lights.

 

[FLUX]

Then I started working on some rocker guards. The Base plate will be 6061-T6 with the large radius bends, one small bend or "kink" at the door sill to help keep gaps to a minimum and two bends and wheel to wheel. The outer skin is P.O. .1875 with matching bends. Tubing is 1/34 .120 wall with pretty simple bends and miters. I have a friend that wants a version with .125 outer skid plate and NO tube. I am interested how well that would hold up to abuse, seems with the aluminum backer the plate cant move very far and will do fine. I love how Savvy rockers fit and work but I changed where the fasteners go on the bottom side and changed the outer skid plate design. I think the savvy kit is perfection with stock fenders. I am not running stock fenders and wanted a different look. All input is appreciated. Thanks!

While I was waiting on these to be bent I made a interior cargo rack and raised sleeping platform for a camping trip.

 

[FLUX]

After a few weeks I was able to pic these up.

They fit well but after seeing them in person I wanted to make a few small changes. I want to lengthen the front and be able to trim to match whatever fender is installed. I also moved the back on the rash guard in to match the front and allow better fitment with flares.

 

[FLUX]

This is the front section that needs changed.

That is up to date!

 

[Will Scarlet]

So far, nicely done. Keep up the good work...

 

[67StingrayJ]

Started working on a rear bumper in model land.

What CAD software are you using? I was a design draftsman by trade in a past life and now I don't have AutoDesk products. So now I'm using OnShape. It's nice, but not what I'm used to.

Great build BTW. Keep posting photos, even if you don't think their relevant. They will be to someone sometime.

 

[FLUX]

Thanks, I use Solid Works. Its the only program I have used. Do you like OnShape?

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Nice LJ!

 

[Blase]

Very nice work!!

 

[RustyC]

Glad to see this thread over here. Great looking work so far.
I downloaded the free version of Fusion360 to use with my plasma table. I would love to learn more about the software for building components and sheet metal work.

 

[FLUX]

Glad to see this thread over here. Great looking work so far.
I downloaded the free version of Fusion360 to use with my plasma table. I would love to learn more about the software for building components and sheet metal work.

I use a torch mate DXF program to cut parts on a plasma. Once you input the bend radius of the dies being used SW does the the rest but you have to have your beck stop and associated dies set up or everything gets wonky. Edge flanges start walking and the parts look great but fit like shiz.

Are you bending parts or primarily welding cut pieces together?

 

[FLUX]

I have a few irons in the fire and one of the prototypes just arrived. I am working a on a hinge that bridges the tailgate and beefs up the hinge area to support a spare tire and or accessories. I need to make a few changes but the concept is coming together.

 

[67StingrayJ]

I like OnShape. But I've used AutoCAD sense 2000. I miss having a dedicated CAD program on my computer.

Good looking hinges. One thing I for sure want to maintain with my build is a swing gate. An LJ is long in the bed and a tailgate will make getting things our even harder. If you make another set of hinges let me know.

 

[NDCjeepsmith]

Damn.... them some bilngy hinges! Gonna need any beefing up on the body side? I'm sure they'll allow for more weight distribution on the tailgate itself but the next issue will be that weight hinging on those smallish plates in the body.

My plan was always to throw a CJ tailgate on but I never thought about it making the reach in even worse... hmm...

 

[FLUX]

If you make another set of hinges let me know.

I do and I will. I have to work out some minor details before a do a production run. I should finish the changes with in the next few weeks. I will make one more prototype for a final pass. Then a small production run. I have a few parts in the works. Once I get closer I will get a star and list them in the vendor section.

 

[RustyC]

Are you bending parts or primarily welding cut pieces together?

I have just been cutting induvidual pieces and welding to this point. I have a shop press with a diy brake in it for simple bends. I have also cut bend lines using the plasma and then simply bent the part by hand. Basement garage limits tooling/workspace.

 

[FLUX]

Damn.... them some bilngy hinges! Gonna need any beefing up on the body side? I'm sure they'll allow for more weight distribution on the tailgate itself but the next issue will be that weight hinging on those smallish plates in the body.

My plan was always to throw a CJ tailgate on but I never thought about it making the reach in even worse... hmm...

Thanks, they are lol but the bling really is a side effect of the weight and strength the aluminum provides.

I totally agree with the next issue being the body side, but the body side is remarkably strong in that area, the welded nuts are right above the inner wheel well. Most failures or rattles I have seen occur with the hinge pin wallowing out due to not being captured properly or the tailgate side twisting due to leverage. The weak link after that is the latch mechanism.

I do plan to make a small interior bracket to tie into the cage foot plate for peace of mind.

Max strength will be when these are paired with aluminum corner guards which are next on the list.

 

[1Sinner]

Wow. Great build so far.

 

[NDCjeepsmith]

Yes totally agree corner armor will shore them up nicely.

I built a swing down rear carrier/stinger for a JK and told the guy Corner armor is really needed for the mounts. He didn't want that so I built backing plates to go on inside of tub beside the tail lights with welded nuts. Works fine but there's still some flex going on. Armor would mitigate that.

 

[mastadon]

I might be interested in a set of those hinges when you finish the kit depending on the price.

 

[Gregj50!!!!!]

Need some triangulation!!!!!!


Nice work!!!!
It’s projects like this that help keep a forum alive and running…… thanks for posting!!!!!!

 

['84 Bronco II]

Cool build, but why did you narrow the front axle just to end up running ~3" of wheel spacers?

 

[FLUX]

Need some triangulation!!!!!!


Nice work!!!!
It’s projects like this that help keep a forum alive and running…… thanks for posting!!!!!!

Thanks, I appreciate that.

 

[FLUX]

Cool build, but why did you narrow the front axle just to end up running ~3" of wheel spacers?

Good question.

The two main issues where budget and wheel back spacing options. I was not finding 17's that had the same back spacing as 15's. Not saying they are not made, I just could not find them at a price and style I was willing to pay. A buddy gave me the adapters/spacers from a project he never used them on so it was the easy button for the time.

Phase two will include dual drilled chromo rear axle shafts, ditching the adapters/spacer and rear mid arm. I have the Joints and brackets I just need the time and links.

One positive side effect is the wheels now provide more protection for the hubs so they may stay.

 

[EndlessMtnFab]

I might be interested in a set of those hinges when you finish the kit depending on the price.

Can add me to that list too. Would integrate them into my CJ.