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Line lock

PAE said:
Have a part number so he can look it up ?

Maybe other end of box ?

Very generous btw, I was going to look for a stainless -4 valve I have somewhere.

In my menagerie if I dont go find something now it's gone until ~ infinity.
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No, its on that end, but well worn

0?-620-003 . The 6 may be a 5
 
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kf4zht said:
ANGELO

Found this in the garage - its yours for the cost of shipping if it will work

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Pm sent
 
I have one of these I bought several years ago along with a gsxr1000 brake caliper and master I plan to use mounted to the tcase output. So it will act as a separate system.

line lock.jpg


Holy shiat I didn't realize they were that expensive. I swear I got it from napa for like 50 bucks when I bought it.
 
The post must have been part of the deleted posts.
I used that Mico electric switch above from kf4zht
 
There is an easier solution, I did it with my 2001 F-250 as it had the same problem. Cut the parking brake cable, drill a hole through the firewall, use a cable clamp around the brake pedal. Parking brake pedal activates 4 wheel hydraulic brakes on boat ramps, loading trailers, while winching, etc.

Only downside is the taillights stay lit up if you have to leave it unattended. FL is mostly flat, I just left it in gear when I parked it.
 
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Gatorgrizz27 said:
There is an easier solution, I did it with my 2001 F-250 as it had the same problem. Cut the parking brake cable, drill a hole through the firewall, use a cable clamp around the brake pedal. Parking brake pedal activates 4 wheel hydraulic brakes on boat ramps, loading trailers, etc.
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Also will pass inspection in most inspection states that care about the parking brake. :laughing:
 
Gatorgrizz27 said:
There is an easier solution, I did it with my 2001 F-250 as it had the same problem. Cut the parking brake cable, drill a hole through the firewall, use a cable clamp around the brake pedal. Parking brake pedal activates 4 wheel hydraulic brakes on boat ramps, loading trailers, while winching, etc.

Only downside is the taillights stay lit up if you have to leave it unattended. FL is mostly flat, I just left it in gear when I parked it.
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Clever solution; reminiscent of the lever rachet lock on a Model T. But I am having trouble visualizing it. Would you clarify?
 
plym49.2 said:
Clever solution; reminiscent of the lever rachet lock on a Model T. But I am having trouble visualizing it. Would you clarify?
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It just uses the parking brake pedal to pull the regular brake pedal. The crappy shoes for the parking brake are left to rot
 
plym49.2 said:
Clever solution; reminiscent of the lever rachet lock on a Model T. But I am having trouble visualizing it. Would you clarify?
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Factory parking brake pedal and cable remains. It goes out through the firewall and under the truck. You cut it off about 2’ back, leave the inner cable longer, cut the housing shorter (hardest part). Drill a hole through the firewall near the brake pedal a little larger than the diameter of the inner cable but smaller than the diameter of the housing. Parking brake cable forms a “U”, runs through the firewall back into the cab. Inner cable wraps around the brake pedal and is secured to itself with a clamp.

It would be relatively easy to wire something like this into the parking brake pedal to kill the taillights, I never had to mess with it though. I didn’t want a toggle switch as I’d forget to turn it back on.

 
So as I stated above somewhere I bought one of those Jegs button line locks but haven't installed it in over a year. :laughing: decided to put in in finally. This was my idea. Works great. People here say they leak so we'll see ant I'll report back to this thread.

Note: using them on the front.

I didn't want to run the lines into the cab so I made a stainless push rod and passed it through the fire wall with my wizardry... :laughing: also wanted the plumbing to be simple and didn't want to add an extra tee so ignored the brake fail switch functionality and plumbed it between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve as I don't use a light any way.

The only problem I ran into is if you press the brake too hard when setting it, you can't unset it. You have to bleed them. :confused:

I guess I'll be bringing a line wrench in my tool bag :laughing:
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Boss said:
The only problem I ran into is if you press the brake too hard when setting it, you can't unset it. You have to bleed them. :confused:
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prolly got uber-brake-booster force multiplication going on when you set it, then the vacuum in the booster bled off so your next brake pedal push isn't enough to unload the valve so it pops open under spring tension
 
Adjust the caliper properly...

Remove the spring, nut, and parking brake lever...then turn the actuator shaft until it clamps down on the the rotor. Back it off to until you can fit the lever on in the correct position and put it all back together.

What a whole bunch of folks that sell these things don't realize is that there was a specific rear pad for these....they look identical to the D154 pad (GM metric / S10 front) pad, but they have a small lug on the backing plate that engages the piston to keep the piston from turning. Get the right pad...the industry number is a D202. Line up the piston so the lug engages the larger cutout in the piston face. then adjust it with the above procedure, they should well and hold the truck if they're not shit calipers.
 
[486] said:
prolly got uber-brake-booster force multiplication going on when you set it, then the vacuum in the booster bled off so your next brake pedal push isn't enough to unload the valve so it pops open under spring tension
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We'll see. I need to test it more after getting it all bracketed up.

I was trying to destroy my confidence by testing it before I put a tention bracket on. :laughing: It was moving around a bit and I wasn't completely sure how much pressure to apply.
 
Lbhsbz said:
Adjust the caliper properly...

Remove the spring, nut, and parking brake lever...then turn the actuator shaft until it clamps down on the the rotor. Back it off to until you can fit the lever on in the correct position and put it all back together.

What a whole bunch of folks that sell these things don't realize is that there was a specific rear pad for these....they look identical to the D154 pad (GM metric / S10 front) pad, but they have a small lug on the backing plate that engages the piston to keep the piston from turning. Get the right pad...the industry number is a D202. Line up the piston so the lug engages the larger cutout in the piston face. then adjust it with the above procedure, they should well and hold the truck if they're not shit calipers.
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You should quote who ever you're talking to.
 
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So this fucking thing ^^ sucks balls. Some times it works sometimes it don't ...when it does sometimes it won't release. :confused: in fact when you press the peddle it locks even more pressure in making the peddle hard as fuck.....

It's out, not fucking with it anymore. Bought this comes in Sunday.

I'll swap it and convert my extension into a turny thingy by machining a small handle and press it into the knob.. unless it turns as is then I'll just knurl it as is.

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My parking brake as both □ body chevys have rear diffs with disc brake conversions the 85 M1028 has my first go at it with its 14 bolt and the 86 M1031 has a Dana 70 with D60 calipers and brackets & discs w/o any parking brake.


The 6 bolt np205 thats going into my M1031 behind the custom 1995 nv4500 with 1.250/10 input.


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Well it didn't take a year this time. :laughing:

I made the extension work and removed the tension bracket since it's not a button anymore. I cut the long handle down and indexed the tiny push knob for grip. Worked really easy.......until I put my foot on the brake. :homer: Now I know why it has a long handle.
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I found out when things warm up it gets easier but it's still too hard for my liking. Now I feel like my 1/4" shaft is too anemic as well. Fuck it. I'm going to press in a handle on the knobs and see what fails. I'll report back.

I really do like the simplicity with no wierd shit like brake lines under the dash and no electrical worries.
 
Just one question ?

Is this copper tubing, as this is a part of the brake system right
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So whats the actual name of it so When I run down to car quest I don't sound like a total doofus and get a roll of the wrong stuff ?

Whats it cost and for how much length?

Thanks
 
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