Line lock

[subybaja]

Well, then. Do not like. That's some silly BS, hanging a portable drill 1/2 way into each caliper.

Electric motor, drive belt, planetary gears, another brakefluid seal...yech. More failure points. I don't like electric T-cases, either.

And to be fair, a cable e-brake:

I'll stick with old reliable:

 

[AKnate]

Wedge a stick between the steering wheel and the brake pedal.
What I used on a C30 Chev for a few years before I got new brake cables.

Mico Lock works too, but are $$$. Have one on an 80s 10 wheeler Ford with juice brakes. It has a regular cable park brake too.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I wouldn't trust an electric solenoid with my life.

if you did the ball valve into the cab, just use an AN fitting in the master and run flex line to your ball valve and back to the hardline.

probably make a pressure bleeder mandatory to get it bled, but that's how i'd do it.

If you place the valve intelligently (i.e. do the opposite of what's in the picture) you can probably maintain a downhill path from master to brakes.

hold switch, see current spike, release switch
bingo bango

maybe current spike is only like 10a for both the motors, meaning no big deal to just hold the switch five seconds at a time rather than watching a gauge

Measure current spike on bench and install circuit breaker that trips at substantially more than the loaded current but less than the spike (i.e. just an old school "automatic" power window). Even after the breaker "wears out" it will still be fine if you size it right.

I've been wanting to try one of those "grab handle" hydraulic brake lever type drift-racer dinguses
it's like an inline master cylinder
attach that to the emergency brake cable

I keep wanting to buy one and set it up as a t-case e-brake. They all seem like chinesium shit to the point where I'm tempted to just buy a duplicate of my clutch master and fabricate my own. But then it's another "project"...

 

[Arps]

The answer is not a log

 

[rockota]

pic of Generalee7's valve in his tacoma. Mine is a copy of this.

 

[welndmn]

I have line locks on my early bronco, they are not a long term solution and I'm really not a fan of them.

I have the Parker Ball valve on my flat fender, it works great.

You didn't say but it sounds like you have cadillac calipers on your axle as those are common with disc brake swaps.
They suck, the design sucks, the mounts suck, they are never worth it.
If you have a 10.25 rear axle, just bite the bullet and go buy a factory disc brake axle and swap your gears and locker into it.
It's the best solution.

 

[[486]]

No. A dozen times NO. The issue is not only with over current but with the actual adjustment of the caliper when you release it. The next biggest problem of over torquing the motors or cooking the brushes is how much to back the calipers off when releasing the brake. Too much distance and you will have a soft pedal with too little bias to the rear. Too much and you’ll cook the calipers. Let’s also not forget about if the calipers aren’t perfectly synced and how you will deal with that.

they have two pistons
the hydraulic one, and a coaxial mechanical one

the electric motor does not retract the outer hydraulic piston, when you wind back the motor you still have to pliers-smash the hydraulic piston back into the callipatater

the letting the motors stall for a bit handles the desynchronization just fine
they'll burn the commutators eventually, but it ain't like you're holding it for minutes at a time
I assume all this worry about overcurrent implies they're wound with a very low amount of turns, like a starter motor. Starters seem to survive being fed locked rotor current a few times, and their windings are 4" of flattened #6 wire...

 

[[486]]

Measure current spike on bench and install circuit breaker that trips at substantially more than the loaded current but less than the spike (i.e. just an old school "automatic" power window). Even after the breaker "wears out" it will still be fine if you size it right.

yeah! use a power window motor switch with integrated circuit breakers, one from a rear door would be a single toggle

wait, power window motors get fed locked rotor amps for seconds at a time damn near continuously and they never seem to fail before the regulator transmission does... maybe that's where I get the "feeling" that they'll be fine with being abused with hamfisted controls

 

[[486]]

Well, then. Do not like. That's some silly BS, hanging a portable drill 1/2 way into each caliper.

Electric motor, drive belt, planetary gears, another brakefluid seal...yech. More failure points. I don't like electric T-cases, either.

well, it sure seems to beat the shit outta the "three rampy balls of shame and disappointment" that are inside all of the lever-action emergency brake calipers that never work

cable actuated drums? yeah they're best, but rear drums are sadly a dead thing now
ETA: and I mean actual drum service brakes, not the shitty little drum inside a rotor bullshit

 

[87manche]

yeah! use a power window motor switch with integrated circuit breakers, one from a rear door would be a single toggle

wait, power window motors get fed locked rotor amps for seconds at a time damn near continuously and they never seem to fail before the regulator transmission does... maybe that's where I get the "feeling" that they'll be fine with being abused with hamfisted controls

but like you just said, the motors in the window regulators are rarely the problem.

I'm wondering if the motors are powerful enough to roach whatever bits exist in that calipers mechanical contraption.

this is obviously all conjecture, but there must be some reason that the OEMs are using a box to control the motor current to these things, and i'd imagine it's because the box is cheaper than making them robust enough to survive just feeding it the beans.



a properly rated ball valve seems to be a far easier solution, but I'm a nerd and I like doing nerdy shit.

 

[Pook]

I have ran both electric line locks and ball valves on my old Toyota crawlers, and my race car/buggies. The ball valve is the way to go...

 

[arse_sidewards]

there must be some reason that the OEMs are using a box to control the motor current to these things, and i'd imagine it's because the box is cheaper than making them robust enough to survive just feeding it the beans.

They use a fancy module because in OEM applications the parking brake isn't just a parking brake. It gets used every time you turn the car off, anti-rollback on hills, etc.

 

[ANGELO]

I have line locks on my early bronco, they are not a long term solution and I'm really not a fan of them.

I have the Parker Ball valve on my flat fender, it works great.

You didn't say but it sounds like you have cadillac calipers on your axle as those are common with disc brake swaps.
They suck, the design sucks, the mounts suck, they are never worth it.
If you have a 10.25 rear axle, just bite the bullet and go buy a factory disc brake axle and swap your gears and locker into it.
It's the best solution.

It's a 10.25. if I went with a disk axles it becomes metric lug pattern. I don't remember what calipers they are. Pretty sure they are elderado calipers with the parking brake screw piston. Yeah they suck, and idk if my breaks are any stronger. But my drums would tighten them self to the point of locking the rears. And the parking brake never worked right. I replaced everything twice, and a friend who does semi and brakes replaced it all twice and we could never get it to work right.

For the ball valve, can I go to my hydraulic shop and get a good one, or does it have to be something specific?

 

[Pook]

It's a 10.25. if I went with a disk axles it becomes metric lug pattern. I don't remember what calipers they are. Pretty sure they are elderado calipers with the parking brake screw piston. Yeah they suck, and idk if my breaks are any stronger. But my drums would tighten them self to the point of locking the rears. And the parking brake never worked right. I replaced everything twice, and a friend who does semi and brakes replaced it all twice and we could never get it to work right.

For the ball valve, can I go to my hydraulic shop and get a good one, or does it have to be something specific

I just used generic high pressure ball valves like these 1/4" Ball Valve

Used on multiple builds no issues. Just make sure you get a thread size you can get adapters for to size it to your brake line threads.

 

[ANGELO]

I think im going to go for a ball valve. I was going to do the mico lever lock, at 366$ but it wont be available for atleast 2 months.

 

[ANGELO]

My hydraulic shop didn't have a ball valve that was small enough.
What psi minimum should I be looking for?

 

[plym49.2]

My hydraulic shop didn't have a ball valve that was small enough.
What psi minimum should I be looking for?

She post number 104

 

[70 tp]

Did you check with silliman fluid power in Sarasota? Pretty sure Ive seen them on the shelf there. 1/8” or 1/4”

 

[PAE]

2500-5000 WOG.

I might have a ss valve in -4 not sure of the psi rating.


Another safety thing, do not use compression fittings, they arent rated for use in automotive brake service.

Use IF inverted flare fittings or AN fittings in steel or stainless but not aluminum.

Ball valve for line lock?

www.pirate4x4.com

 

[ANGELO]

Did you check with silliman fluid power in Sarasota? Pretty sure Ive seen them on the shelf there. 1/8” or 1/4”

Yeah that who I use. The only 1/8 they stocked was rated for like 600 psi. All their high psi stuff was 1/4 and bigger. I was pretty surprised, they always have what I need.

 

[70 tp]

1/4” x 1/8” bushings?

 

[Dethmachinefab]

McMaster part number 4715K11 ?

$40

 

[ANGELO]

I ordered a parker valve. I think it was 3000 psi rated

 

[plym49.2]

Well, then. Do not like. That's some silly BS, hanging a portable drill 1/2 way into each caliper.

Electric motor, drive belt, planetary gears, another brakefluid seal...yech. More failure points. I don't like electric T-cases, either.

And to be fair, a cable e-brake:

I'll stick with old reliable:

Someone remind me why rear drum brakes are bad.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I'm still failing to see what the $30-40 high pressure ball valves do that the $20-40 mechanical bush button line locks don't...

Someone remind me why rear drum brakes are bad.

Because racecar!

 

[plym49.2]

I'm still failing to see what the $30-40 high pressure ball valves do that the $20-40 mechanical bush button line locks don't...



Because racecar!

That's not a good enough reason.

 

[PAE]

Hydraulic Ball valve is much better quality than the chink made push button valve for one thing, or go buy a purpose made Mico Lever lock or twist lock for $400.00 - $500.00 bucks.

But rock crawling wheelers arent likely to opt in for a correct quality made product that isnt at all likely to fail and isnt a chinese product.

 

[mongosd2]

I'm still failing to see what the $30-40 high pressure ball valves do that the $20-40 mechanical bush button line locks don't...

Because racecar!

They leak…really bad…if you want a couple I have 2 that were absolutely useless…pay shipping and they are yours

 

[kf4zht]

ANGELO

Found this in the garage - its yours for the cost of shipping if it will work

 

[PAE]

Have a part number so he can look it up ?

Maybe other end of box ?

Very generous btw, I was going to look for a stainless -4 valve I have somewhere.

In my menagerie if I dont go find something now it's gone until ~ infinity.

ANGELO

Found this in the garage - its yours for the cost of shipping if it will work