TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
Heat and twist the arm to improve heim operating angle?
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Lets hit the dumbfuck sauce and build a stupid front axle( Shaved narrowed Dana 50)
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Those are link end spacers, steering ones are typically different for this exact reason.
I agree, it's much better now. I'd still figure out a more permanent way though.
I agree, it's much better now. I'd still figure out a more permanent way though.
Gunhand1
Well-known member
I considered that, but I don't have Oxy Acetylene easily avaliable. I have a second set of knuckles that I may take to my dad's and heat and bend.
That's pretty much what I did, I ground the slope out of the top and bottom and then took a reamer to open the hole up just enough the bolt could sit straight.
Where can you get the steering type spacers? I only recall seeing this type on Barnes website.
I have a ride next weekend I'm wanting to make it to, so hopefully this is good enough for that. I have a second set of knuckles I'll clean up and build a double shear arm for and probably do hydro assist at the same time.
I'll report back after next weekend with the damage report haha
TRINDU
PBB Orphan
Or will it not clear 15s?
Rockwood
An Ape
Don’t forget to add safety washers. Just needs to be some sort of washer larger than the hole in the heim should the ball pop out. One at the bolt head, the other at the nut. Right now, if a heim fails you’re gonna go for a ride.
Rockwood
An Ape
5/8" Safety Washer
Keep your heim joint or rod end secure with our 5/8" safety washers! These washers will prevent the ball of a heim joint in a single shear application (such as steering) from coming off from the mounting bolt in the event of joint failure. Zinc plated, sold individually.
barnes4wd.com
Gunhand1
Well-known member
$200 for the JHF kit too much? If at least copy it.
Or will it not clear 15s?
I may go for the JHF kit, it looks good. But I have a bad habit of trying to fabricobble my own stuff. It will be tight with the 15s, but I think it would work.
The knuckle is cast... Ain't happening. Any twisting = snapping.
Gunhand1
Well-known member
I'm losing a little bit of steering angle due to the longer ears on the 50 knuckles, anybody happen to know of a longer pittman arm option that fits on the XJ box?
I recall a thread on the other forum or maybe NAXJA that explored some options, I think d44 swap guys had to do the same(maybe using a waggy arm?)
I recall a thread on the other forum or maybe NAXJA that explored some options, I think d44 swap guys had to do the same(maybe using a waggy arm?)
Rockwood
An Ape
Pitman Arm is too short: lets start a list of OEM...
Gunhand1
Well-known member
Awesome! I think this is the thread I remember. I'll have to read through it and see what will work. As quick glance it looks like a WJ arm is the answer.Pitman Arm is too short: lets start a list of OEM...
www.pirate4x4.com
At any rate I got to drive it around the neighborhood a little and check everything at full bump....and also scare my daughters and their friend 🤣
Gunhand1
Well-known member
So I got it out this weekend, got a good shakedown run in with few issues. Hit some local trails near me home town and them made the trip down to the Good Evening Ranch for a good beatdown.
The steering is an issue, as we all knew it would be
, definitely gonna have to do hydro assist and need to get the tie rod up higher as well.Other than that I'm having some brake issues. When going up or down hill I have to pump the brakes to get anough pedal to stop. We crimped one of the front calipers off and had good pedal after that, which would seem to confirm that the stock XJ master cylinder doesn't move enough fluid for the much larger dual piston calipers. From a quick search it looks like a 99 2500 Ram van MC is the go-to swap, can anybody confirm?
Brakes were great before the swap, and the system was bled several times so I don't think that's the issue.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
Nice to see you got it finished up.
Get on Rock Auto and figure out what the pistons area ratio was between the master and your front calipers on the Dana 30 and try to match that ratio with the new master cylinder and the Dana 50 calipers (assuming you were happy with your brakes before). A low ratio will give to harder brakes with less travel and will require more force to produce an equal amount of stopping power as a high ratio which will create longer travel, softer brakes.
Try playing around with the Billavista braking calculator to get a feel for how changes will affect the system. Brake Calculator
Also related: Billavista Brake Bible
Get on Rock Auto and figure out what the pistons area ratio was between the master and your front calipers on the Dana 30 and try to match that ratio with the new master cylinder and the Dana 50 calipers (assuming you were happy with your brakes before). A low ratio will give to harder brakes with less travel and will require more force to produce an equal amount of stopping power as a high ratio which will create longer travel, softer brakes.
Try playing around with the Billavista braking calculator to get a feel for how changes will affect the system. Brake Calculator
Also related: Billavista Brake Bible
Gunhand1
Well-known member
I'm gonna throw a 99 Dodge 2500 Van MC at it and see how it does, it seems like that's the common swap. Of that doesn't work then I will have to dig into it more and find something else.
Got a WJ pitman arm on the way too to try to get some steering angle back and I'm going to start on some high steer arms this week.
I'd like to do hydro assist soon too, if anybody has a 1.5x8" cylinder they don't need anymore shoot me a PM
RunningProblem
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2020
- Member Number
- 2860
- Messages
- 2,732
RAM 2500 master cylinder MC upgrade on YJ\TJ
Old thread with lots of information on it.
What year is your XJ? I did the WJ booster swap on my 89 Cherokee and a Dakota master won't fit the studs. Dakota is said to be just about the same size as the Ram 2500.
Just buy a PSC ram kit. It's expensive and nice to have it all at once. I'm not sure how much you'd save piecing used parts together then finding out the ram leaks.
Performance Steering Components PSC SC2200K-HK PSC Hydraulic Assist Steering Systems | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - PSC Hydraulic Assist Steering Systems with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hydraulic Steering Kits at Summit Racing.
Trail Gear 303531-1-KIT Trail-Gear Rock Assault Ram Steering Assist Kits | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Trail-Gear Rock Assault Ram Steering Assist Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hydraulic Steering Kits at Summit Racing.
Gunhand1
Well-known member
Mines a 98 XJRAM 2500 master cylinder MC upgrade on YJ\TJ
Old thread with lots of information on it.
What year is your XJ? I did the WJ booster swap on my 89 Cherokee and a Dakota master won't fit the studs. Dakota is said to be just about the same size as the Ram 2500.
Just buy a PSC ram kit. It's expensive and nice to have it all at once. I'm not sure how much you'd save piecing used parts together then finding out the ram leaks.
Performance Steering Components PSC SC2200K-HK PSC Hydraulic Assist Steering Systems | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - PSC Hydraulic Assist Steering Systems with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hydraulic Steering Kits at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
Trail Gear 303531-1-KIT Trail-Gear Rock Assault Ram Steering Assist Kits | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Trail-Gear Rock Assault Ram Steering Assist Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hydraulic Steering Kits at Summit Racing.
I think my brake booster is fine, when we crimped off flow to one caliper brakes worked fine afterwards, it seems like stock dosen't move enough fluid to satisfy the dual piston calipers. Stock XJ MC is a 1" bore and the van Cylinder is 1.25", so it should move more.
I'll have to see what it will cost to piece everything together. A ram with swivel eyes is about 120 bucks and I can't see hoses and fitting running more than another hundred.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I was going to say you were dumb for trying to piece it together until I clicked on it. $465 for that is pretty steep
Gunhand1
Well-known member
I know they gotta make money, but damn, does it all have to come from me?I was going to say you were dumb for trying to piece it together until I clicked on it. $465 for that is pretty steep
I was going to say you were dumb for trying to piece it together until I clicked on it. $465 for that is pretty steep
The PSC kits are nice, but spendy. I bet a deal could be found that's better than Summit pricing.
The Trail Gear kits are functional but as their prices increase they become less and less of a value (same for all of their products).
For the savvy shopper, a Surplus Center cylinder and lines are a damn good deal...
Rockwood
An Ape
How's the extra weight from that pig up front?
So I got it out this weekend, got a good shakedown run in with few issues. Hit some local trails near me home town and them made the trip down to the Good Evening Ranch for a good beatdown.
The steering is an issue, as we all knew it would be
Other than that I'm having some brake issues. When going up or down hill I have to pump the brakes to get anough pedal to stop. We crimped one of the front calipers off and had good pedal after that, which would seem to confirm that the stock XJ master cylinder doesn't move enough fluid for the much larger dual piston calipers. From a quick search it looks like a 99 2500 Ram van MC is the go-to swap, can anybody confirm?
Brakes were great before the swap, and the system was bled several times so I don't think that's the issue.
Gunhand1
Well-known member
Not super noticeable, felt a little more stable if anything
Rockwood
An Ape
Do any go-fast bombing?
Gunhand1
Well-known member
A little, not as much as i normally would since I still haven't put limit straps on it. I really don't want to fold the axle up backwards 🤣
From the little bit I did do I couldn't tell a huge difference, it still soaked up bumps pretty fair, even with the cheap generic monotubes(KYB I think)
Rockwood
An Ape
Word. I keep waffling on tons since I don't really see needing more than 35s with the trails I run here in SoCal. Since it's SoCal, half the shit is desert bombing, and tons weigh a fuckton, so curious if there's much difference in ride on a uni-Jeep.
Gunhand1
Well-known member
I did quite a bit of trail bombing with the d30when I would ride around with my golf cart buddies, it performed very well. This doesn't seem to have changed things for the worse as far as I can tell. And hopefully from now on out wheel bearings and balljoints won't be a yearly replaceable wear item
Gunhand1
Well-known member
What's everybody think on doing high steer something like this? It would correct all my joint geometry and mounting the drag link a little further back would give me back my steering angle.
Obviously there will be more gusseting and tie ins on the final product
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
The flatter the drag link the better. As long as you can package it with the "frame"
and all that.You also need to take your panhard bar into consideration, or move it to be parallel with the drag link.
I don't see a problem with what you're thinking. May as well build a similar arm for the passenger side and raise the tie rod as much as you can also.
Gunhand1
Well-known member
It will clear the "frame"rail with about an inch to spare at full bump. And if I drop the frame side track bar down 1 bolt hole they will line up almost perfectlyThe flatter the drag link the better. As long as you can package it with the "frame"
You also need to take your panhard bar into consideration, or move it to be parallel with the drag link.
I don't see a problem with what you're thinking. May as well build a similar arm for the passenger side and raise the tie rod as much as you can also.
I'll definitely be doing something similar to the passenger knuckle too. I'm hoping to get everything lined out with this part of the project before I start on the hydro assist.