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Just another JK build


Well-known member
May 20, 2020
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Washoe County Nevada
I guess I will start my build thread. I bought this 2007 JK Sahara brand new in the summer of 2007 and left it untouched for 3 years, then I lost my mind and fucked it all up. Did a mild build in 2010 and got addicted. 33's to 37's to 40's never wore out a tire until this year. Been on all kinds of lift height from 2" to 6" and now sitting about 3.5" Going to skip over most of it and put up the latest incarnation. My tag thedirtman was because I sold screened topsoil back in Illinois and was known as the dirt man. It worked for off road too so I stuck with it.

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I stretched it, did tons, coil overs, added bypasses. lots of cage that was added to over time. The jeep worked well but was really a fat underpowered pig. I was off this winter like most and got a wild hair up my ass and got the plasma and sawzall out. Oh ya the color changed in 2013 before we moved out west.
I started with a new cross member for the rear suspension to mount to. I also wanted the seats raised for better visibility, my cage limited the seat height before. One other goal was to have the factory doors mount and seal to the cage. I very rarely use doors but is nice on those cold days doing recoveries. I like the fastback look and wanted to keep it so I started bending some tube. The fuel cell dictated the shape of the rear as I wanted it low and as central as I could get it for weight balance.
I built a frame for the seats that raised the seats about 3" and allowed me to move the battery and evap canister (I have to smog it) under the seats along with some other components. I also built a center console with a couple cup holders, switch pod, and some storage. I was able to mount all three shifters for the atlas 4 speed between the seats for easy shifting. If I had to do it over I would have just done a 2 speed transfer case and saved the weight. Around 60 pounds.
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Bought a bead roller and made all the panels. Used 16 gauge aluminum for most of the panels, the rear was 1/8" to add some strength to the cargo area. Added a hoop and some tie downs. I can remove the tie downs and add other storage solutions mounted to that cross bar. I don't carry a spare very often as it adds weight and blocks my visibility.
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Put some rotopack mounts on so I have some nice compact storage. I have way more storage then I had before. The nets are from Gladiator out of Sacramento. Very high quality and worked perfect for my set up. I mounted the ARB compressor in the box on the side.



Weight before and after the build. Neither weight has a spare tire or roof.Way different feel in the rig, no longer do I long for a V8 and it feels so much more nimble off road
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Wheel base is sitting at 112". Shocks are 18" travel but I get 21" of actual wheel travel in the rear due to the mounting angle. 9" up 12" down. Front is limited to 16" of travel due to driveline bind. 7" up 9" down. 19.5" of belly clearance. Top of cage at highest point is 80" Front axle is a PR60 @72" WMS Rear is a PR80 68.5 WMS + some 2" adapters. Wheels are methods wrapped in 40x12.5 KR3 Baja tires. Good rubber I picked up for $900 for all 4. Saved nearly 20 pounds per wheel over my 40x13.5 MTR/K mounted to Rock Monster wheels. Rear is double triangulated 4 link with a standard parallel 4 link front with pan hard. PSC assist steering. Using Ballistic, Johnny joints, and Metal Cloak joints. Rear 36" currie anti rock for some extra stability.
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You really have been busy. It's looking fantastic.

Are you only running a swaybar in the rear? How does it handle on the street?

4600lbs...............I hate you:flipoff2:
Just a rear sway bar and it handles great on the street. I raised the upper frame side links and widened them out and it handles so much better when cornering.
Forgot that I installed a suck down winch in the rear. Glad I did this as it works great when you don't want all that unloading travel in the rear. The small curved tube the rope runs on is stainless steel so it won't snag it.
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Just a rear sway bar and it handles great on the street. I raised the upper frame side links and widened them out and it handles so much better when cornering.

Ok, I can see that now. Looks like the rear uppers would fall on the outside of the frame, if the frame went back that far. The fronts are still inside the frame rails?

How long are your swaybar arms?
How do you get the spare down? Does that hoop that's holding it in place move or pivot in some fashion?

How the hell do you get it up there in the first place? Guess that should have been my first question.:eek:
This is at Moon Rocks in North Washoe county. She flexes pretty good.

I saw you out at Moonrocks that day. That Grey 4 door that you were with was sick! That guy wheels like a mothafucka!

I've been trying to see how you did your tube work above the windshield. Kinda hard to really get a good idea of what you did.

Is your top bar above the windshield running higher than the windshield frame. It kind of looks like it might be. I like the idea of that, keeping the windshield frame from getting all smashed in a roll.
It is above the windshield frame to protect it. The factory doors will also seal up all the way around the way I have the other bars installed.
#1. That's fucking brilliant.

#2. I don't really have a #2 exactly, because I placed everything so my soft top will fit.

But, I am most certainly will be making a removable bar that will do the same thing when just running the spider web shade. Luckily I have a few extra 2" tube clamps hanging around.
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