Internal Beadlocks

Wonder if it's cuz the rim is gonna be so narrow?... what about just gluing the beads and calling it good?

But it's suburu math lol
just shove screws through the rims haha
From what I've seen, narrower wheels with wide tires 'pinch' the tire onto the rim really well. Had a friend that way back used to run a 15x8 with 33x14 grooved Boggers on a Samuri and he'd air down to around 3-4 psi....never lost a bead and the tire would wrinkle up really good on the rocks at that pressure.
 
Back in around 1998 or 99 there was a guy here in Phoenix doing 'rock locks'...that were basically just a built up fiberglass/resin ring on the inner and outer beads similar to what you're talking about. Worked like a charm. Ran 'em for a couple years, never lost another bead....eventually gave the set away....and they worked for several years for the new owner; lost touch so I can't say if they are still in use.
Was it ZUK? I got the polyurethane idea from him, and actually refer to them as ZUKlocks.

Mark
 
From what I've seen, narrower wheels with wide tires 'pinch' the tire onto the rim really well. Had a friend that way back used to run a 15x8 with 33x14 grooved Boggers on a Samuri and he'd air down to around 3-4 psi....never lost a bead and the tire would wrinkle up really good on the rocks at that pressure.
That was the idea behind the combo I chose. Doesn't quite have the width difference as what your friend ran, but still relatively effective.
 
I have some installed in a set of bias Treps. Definitely much lighter than any traditional beadlock. They have some other unique advantages over a traditional beadlock, but most guys with typical trail rigs don't care/won't notice. They are a pain in the ass to install and I don't think they are really worth it for a recreational rig (especially a Subaru on 31s :laughing:). Lots of guys in the EMC classes are/were running them.

I guess all these guys saying double beadlocks are pointless have never burped/lost an inner bead.
 
I guess all these guys saying double beadlocks are pointless have never burped/lost an inner bead.


Guys that are burping air out of their inner beads are running stupid low air pressure and more than likely playing in big rocks or trying to float on top of snow. This is a Subaru on 31s. He isn't taking it anywhere he is going to need beadlocks, never mind double beadlocks.....
 
I have some installed in a set of bias Treps. Definitely much lighter than any traditional beadlock. They have some other unique advantages over a traditional beadlock, but most guys with typical trail rigs don't care/won't notice. They are a pain in the ass to install and I don't think they are really worth it for a recreational rig (especially a Subaru on 31s :laughing:). Lots of guys in the EMC classes are/were running them.

I guess all these guys saying double beadlocks are pointless have never burped/lost an inner bead.
Double bead lock inner lock rings on 15’s don’t fit over the brakes, is why I would say it. My race cars are double beadlocked with the run flats but a 17” inner lock ring won’t fit over my brakes.
 
Guys that are burping air out of their inner beads are running stupid low air pressure and more than likely playing in big rocks or trying to float on top of snow. This is a Subaru on 31s. He isn't taking it anywhere he is going to need beadlocks, never mind double beadlocks.....

I don't think the OP meant for this thread to be specific to his Subaru. Do you consider 7-10PSI to be stupid low? Those are pressures I have seen inner beads burp and get lost at.
 
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Double bead lock inner lock rings on 15’s don’t fit over the brakes, is why I would say it. My race cars are double beadlocked with the run flats but a 17” inner lock ring won’t fit over my brakes.
Two piece (Hutchinson-style) is usually how people get double beadlocks without an internal set up.

Edited to add, since they don't have drop centers, the two piece wheels have excellent brake clearance.
 
I don't think the OP meant for this thread to be specific to his Subaru. Do you consider 7-10PSI to be stupid low? Those are pressures pressures I have seen inner beads burp and get lost at.
Correct. Some members, as usual, will nitpick the ever living **** out of what one person is doing, though :laughing:
 
I don't think the OP meant for this thread to be specific to his Subaru. Do you consider 7-10PSI to be stupid low? Those are pressures pressures I have seen inner beads burp and get lost at.

Cheap wheels, and tires with less than stellar bead sizing has more to do with that than anything else.
 
Why are you against running SxS beadlock wheels and adapters? Your Subaru is no heavier than a 4 seat SxS and they come in the width you want (15x7), a hundred different styles and are very affordable. The backspacing also lends itself better to adapting to a modern car vs something like that dirt track wheel you posted. Lots of people race U4 with cast aluminum beadlocks without a problem so I'm not understanding your "no aluminum wheels" comment either.
 
Why are you against running SxS beadlock wheels and adapters? Your Subaru is no heavier than a 4 seat SxS and they come in the width you want (15x7), a hundred different styles and are very affordable. The backspacing also lends itself better to adapting to a modern car vs something like that dirt track wheel you posted. Lots of people race U4 with cast aluminum beadlocks without a problem so I'm not understanding your "no aluminum wheels" comment either.
I didn't say that I'm against running SxS wheels and adapters.
 
What year subaru? You realize most of the older ones are jeep pattern 4.5x5 is 114.3x5
Subaru is an '01, 5x100

I have some other projects in mind as well that I'm interested in the using the air locks on if they do well.
 
Method Bead Grip wheels are also something else to consider. I run 4 of those on my short course car with the dirt track Hoosiers with 10-12lbs of air in the rear tires and I've never peeled a bead sliding the car around at high speeds. They definitely work as advertised. :smokin:
 
Method Bead Grip wheels are also something else to consider. I run 4 of those on my short course car with the dirt track Hoosiers with 10-12lbs of air in the rear tires and I've never peeled a bead sliding the car around at high speeds. They definitely work as advertised. :smokin:
Yeah, I like their stuff. Only sticking with the steels because I already have 8 of them and originally planned to DIY weld on. Only problem I have with the alu is busting it on a rock and not being able to smack it back into shape, leak-free.

Funny thing with the Subaru is that there's tons of alu wheels, some with the fake lock lock, but not a single beadlock in the correct bolt pattern.


I'm hoping to pick up Mike Honco's 40's some point to start a tube chassis build. Wouldn't mind the air locks on that. Willing to try them on the Subaru first.
 
I don't think the OP meant for this thread to be specific to his Subaru. Do you consider 7-10PSI to be stupid low? Those are pressures I have seen inner beads burp and get lost at.
Same....usually BFG Reds in 39s on 17s with 9 psi....burps the inner bead enough to lose a **** ton of air.
 
Same....usually BFG Reds in 39s on 17s with 9 psi....burps the inner bead enough to lose a **** ton of air.
Only with the wrong wheels. The ATX slabs I have, have such a mean inner bead lip, it’s half impossible to get the back bead to break.

Raceline Monsters, there’s an old style with a nice rounded on both sides little bead lip. Then there’s the new ones that the bead lip is a check valve. Sloped in the direction to get the tire to bead up but square in the other direction so it won’t de bead.

I’ve had other wheels that it’s easy to push the back bead off but the above two, never had a burp no matter the air pressure
 
Only with the wrong wheels. The ATX slabs I have, have such a mean inner bead lip, it’s half impossible to get the back bead to break.

Raceline Monsters, there’s an old style with a nice rounded on both sides little bead lip. Then there’s the new ones that the bead lip is a check valve. Sloped in the direction to get the tire to bead up but square in the other direction so it won’t de bead.

I’ve had other wheels that it’s easy to push the back bead off but the above two, never had a burp no matter the air pressure
I've seen it with Racelines, Walker Evans and a set of Robby Gordons....assumed it was just the Reds.
 
I guess all these guys saying double beadlocks are pointless have never burped/lost an inner bead.
I rode mountain bikes with a guy that said if you don't get a pinch flat once a year, you're running too much pressure. Not exactly the same idea, but pretty close.

People seem really concerned about burping/loosing an inner bead (or any bead). IMO that's nearly a non-issue on a trail rig. Find the sweet spot for tire pressure, if you burp a bead, have a cold one, jack it up, air it up, move on.

I do have beadlocks on my JK, but didn't on the SAS S10 I wheeled for 15 years before that (Rubicon/Fordyce/and moderate JV trails)

That being said, I came here hoping there had been some changes to inner bead lock technology. My non-sticky 40s are on non-beadlocks, and I want to do some snow wheeling at low single psi pressures this winter. Looks like nothing has changed.
 
That being said, I came here hoping there had been some changes to inner bead lock technology. My non-sticky 40s are on non-beadlocks, and I want to do some snow wheeling at low single psi pressures this winter. Looks like nothing has changed.

Was hoping to see some more options/improvements myself. If Inner Air Locks are still holding up to this day, I may give them a go.
 
I haven't seen the hummvee double beadlocks mentioned where you clamp a PVC ring between both sides. Guys in college seemed really hip about those.

I fall into the category of not seeing the need for double beadlocks in 99% of use cases. I have only run Trail Ready single locks, but in the snow I start at 4psi and have run them down to where the gauge doesn't read and never lost an inner bead or burped air (as if there was any to burp). I have bent a handful of wheels at the inner bead from running too low and going too fast, if anything that would be the reason to get doubles is to reinforce the inner lip of the wheel, but I try and avoid going fast at 4psi anymore :grinpimp:
 
I haven't seen the hummvee double beadlocks mentioned where you clamp a PVC ring between both sides. Guys in college seemed really hip about those.
That's basically all the Stazworks is....but they are HEAVY. I have a set and am reluctant to use them due to the weight.
 
Have Staun/Coyote internal beadlocks and been running them for 20 years and they have a few quarks but will keep running them. I have ran with people that have the big name single locks and at low pressures they will pull the inner beads.
 
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