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Inexpensive New Off-road tires

Lilyota said:
I just bought a set of the Pats,


I fully intend on running them through the paces seeing as how I bought a set of DIY beadlocks at the same time.


If only it would cool off now so I could weld em up:laughing:
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RIP your kidneys and fillings if you ever take it on the highway. :flipoff2:
 
Lilyota said:
So you're sayin weld em under water?

I don't know if I can hold my breath that long:flipoff2:
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Sure.

Just don't let the bubbles get trapped. The heat from the arc breaks down the water into hydrogen and oxygen and the bombs hurt when they go off.:flipoff2:
 
I wish KM3 werent so fucking expensive. Not a huge fan of any chicom tires. There doesnt seem to much of a middle ground
 
I was looking for a set of mud terrains for a work truck and didn’t want chi com garbage due to the loads involved. The best ”middle ground” I was able to find were the Cooper Evolution M/T’s. They are around $800 for a set of 35’s and they don’t have them in larger sizes than that.

Discount Tire | Tires and Wheels for Sale | Online & In-Person

www.discounttire.com www.discounttire.com

Reviews were all very good and the tires felt to be well made with thick sidewalls. I never mounted them as I had issues getting the title for that truck, but I’d try them in the future.
 
gt1guy said:
Got a pool? Get yourself a box of Broco "soft touch" 1/8" welding rods, throw everything in the pool and go to town. 150-160 amps on the machine. #8 shade. No hot metal, no sparks, no burns.:beer:
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Is the high amperage requirement because of the water cooling things down?

I rarely run 1/8 north of 135-140A unless I'm trying to go for maximum penetration on a thick piece like the root of a lap joint.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Is the high amperage requirement because of the water cooling things down?

I rarely run 1/8 north of 135-140A unless I'm trying to go for maximum penetration on a thick piece like the root of a lap joint.
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Yes, exactly. The puddle solidifies insanely fast. It's very unforgiving. The flip side of that is that you can keep a finger on the rod a couple inches from the arc, just to keep it steady.
 
gt1guy said:
Yes, exactly. The puddle solidifies insanely fast. It's very unforgiving.
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How does it compare to stick welding aluminum?

Because that sounds exactly what stick welding aluminum feels like. Granted I'd had all of 45sec weld time doing aluminum.
 
arse_sidewards said:
How does it compare to stick welding aluminum?

Because that sounds exactly what stick welding aluminum feels like. Granted I'd had all of 45sec weld time doing aluminum.
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I've never stick welded aluminum, so I can't say. If you closed your eyes and ran a bead, it doesn't feel much different than running a bead in a shop at 120 amps. If that makes sense. Running a bead in a shop at 160amps has no feel to it cause you're just throwing metal with a gigantic arc.
 
gt1guy said:
I've never stick welded aluminum, so I can't say. If you closed your eyes and ran a bead, it doesn't feel much different than running a bead in a shop at 120 amps. If that makes sense. Running a bead in a shop at 160amps has no feel to it cause you're just throwing metal with a gigantic arc.
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That makes a ton of sense.

With aluminum the timing is all off relative to steel. I couldn't get the rod to burn how I liked it. Like I was both moving too slow for how fast the rod wanted to run yet not depositing enough metal. I'm sure with practice it would feel right.
 
gt1guy said:
Got a pool? Get yourself a box of Broco "soft touch" 1/8" welding rods, throw everything in the pool and go to town. 150-160 amps on the machine. #8 shade. No hot metal, no sparks, no burns.:beer:
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So I know that underwater welding is a legit and established field, and very effective.

But the shade tree welder in me says "NO FAWKING WAY". 😂

Welding in water seems so counterintuitive, and the safety aspect seems bonkers. How does it turn out compared to regular old 6011 from a buzzbox? How does the technique compare?
 
Yotota said:
So I know that underwater welding is a legit and established field, and very effective.

But the shade tree welder in me says "NO FAWKING WAY". 😂

Welding in water seems so counterintuitive, and the safety aspect seems bonkers. How does it turn out compared to regular old 6011 from a buzzbox? How does the technique compare?
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That buzzbox better not be AC:shocked: That would be a really bad day.

It doesn't run like 6011 at all, it runs more like a 7018. But I honestly don't know what the second two numbers would be, probably 14. 99% sure it's a 70 filler. The flux is the special part. I have no clue what's in it and nobody is going to tell you. At Global Divers, we had our Global 1 rods, specially made for us. I think there was a patent on the flux. Then they were dipped in some kind of urethane to keep them waterproof. You want the flux to make a lot of gas. Even though you're underwater, what's taking place between the tip of the rod and the puddle, is actually dry. Wet welding pretty much ends a little past 100'fsw. The ambient pressure overcomes the amount of gas the flux is making. I did a job at 120'fsw and spent most of my time grinding.

But ya, it runs more like 7018:flipoff2: Except vertical down. Flat is normal, overhead sucks. Everything we did was designed to have the least amount of overhead. All structural, no pipeline welding. Honestly, it's a shitty weld, lots of porosity. AWS 3.6 calls it a class B weld. Hydrogen is a problem also. Doing a root pass on a vertical fillet, you get about 5"-6" of weld per rod. Much less than in the dry and you're going way slower.

The difference between 6011 and 7018 is the same for wet welding, it's just little differences to get used to. Like fish swimming around you.:flipoff2:
 
Lilyota said:
I just bought a set of the Pats,


I fully intend on running them through the paces seeing as how I bought a set of DIY beadlocks at the same time.


If only it would cool off now so I could weld em up:laughing:
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Updates?
Hearing mixed reviews on deep snow.
 
Hilake2 said:
Updates?
Hearing mixed reviews on deep snow.
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I "might" have 10'000 miles on them.

They are on a YJ .

They seem ok in the Mud and the snow.

They aren't balanced except for the yellow dot at the valve stem and there is very little vibration.


I'd buy em again.
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I have the pats on my 85 and for around here they work well offroad. I don't drive on the road so can't say much about them. I will say they are no good in the slick clay mud we have. Last ride I did, it had rained the day before and the wet spots I hit, I was having issues with traction. Went through some mud holes and had to take the bypass. I have thought about grooving them to see if it helps
 

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I've been more happy with cheap tires than I have expensive tires off road. I had 35 mtrk's when they were still cheapish. They performed well but 3 out of 4 ended up separating with 75% tread left.

Falken at3 I got for like $650 to my door, they were great. Lasted forever and did well for a daily/weekend warrior. I even got like $200 out of them with ~25% tread. The pats were fine like I said. I ended up commuting way more than I anticipated. Like 1000+ miles a week, with bad alignment. I don't think they wore out significantly quicker than any other mt and performed well off road in rocks to snow. I can see how deep mud they may plug up, grooving wide grooves out of the center would probably help. I also wonder if they are like other radials where the lugs stay the same size on a 33 as a 40 vs more dedicated off road tires keep roughly the same amount of lugs and size up them and the voids.

I'm now on the 35x10.50r17 kenda klever rt's and am super happy with them. I probably should have just went with the 33 for this rig, but that's not the tires fault :laughing:


They grip well in hard pack snow and ice on the road. Air down well in deep snow and seem to drive really nice over all. As usual, the lug spacing is much more open than they look in pics.
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We just cut the center out of the big lug. Makes them flex better I think. Definitely no krawler but I don’t hate them.
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JR4X said:
We just cut the center out of the big lug. Makes them flex better I think. Definitely no krawler but I don’t hate them.
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Thats what I always pictured. Or if mud is a concern make it twice as wide.

How come you didn't put the utv milestars on the faux door?
 
TRINDU said:
I wish KM3 werent so fucking expensive. Not a huge fan of any chicom tires. There doesnt seem to much of a middle ground
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The middle ground to me is the semi recognized brands like kenda, Falken and imo milestar.

Sucks to not buy 'merican, but when they're half the price and 80-110% as good, it makes sense.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
How come you didn't put the utv milestars on the faux door?
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Time, shipping and stuff. The Pat UTV tires are awesome! I love them, truly. Because they’re made overseas, they ran out in 21 when I needed them. Last quarter of 21 all the black labels were locked up when they thought they might not have any for 2022. We’re good now though.
 

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Eric said:
Two recent examples. Jeeps that drove to the trail making obstacles that buggies on reds could not make.
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Because the name on the side of the tire is the only factor? The XJ doesn't even have mtrs on it :homer:

By the way, I've had 2 set of mtrk's. They have good traction, but nothing earth shattering. They have weak sidewalls and are perpetually out of stock.

They were also nothing close to my 2 different sets of red labels for traction.

This threads about cheap tires btw, so quit trolling.
 
I can’t believe none of you have mentioned the Mud Claw Extreme M/T.

Iirc I was shocked to see made in USA on the sidewall of a set that came through the shop.
 
Covecrawler said:
I can’t believe none of you have mentioned the Mud Claw Extreme M/T.

Iirc I was shocked to see made in USA on the sidewall of a set that came through the shop.
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They look like the same tread (different sidewall) as the Thunderer Trac Grip MT's i just bought

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Only been on there a week or so, but i like em thus far.
 
Subscribed. My Nitto extreme MTs are on the way out and I would like to go a little narrower and cheaper next time.
 
^ there’s a dozen knock off copies of the thunderers . Just an FYI I read some positive things in this thread about the Kenda klevers. They were very popular 5-7 years ago I would say it was here locally . On anything of any size they wouldn’t last more than 15-20k miles and when they’re not that much cheaper people completely stopped buying them . Someone mentioned the falken AT3s up top I have several friends running them on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks that swear by them , they look really good and last forever and are cheap . I’m running some Toyos right now on my tracker and they’re definitely one of the best tires I’ve ever ran . You see a lot of the Patagonia’s around here too . Those dickcepec tires people have mentioned a few times are some fast wearing garbage they practically give them away periodically on 4wp’s sales .
 
reptillikus said:
They look like the same tread (different sidewall) as the Thunderer Trac Grip MT's i just bought
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I had a set in the 33 variety on my 3rd gen 4runner when I bought it. Idiot previous owner didn't think they needed to be balanced. They did good until about 65 then had some shake. Weren't bad for cheap mud tires. Removed them to go to a smaller at
 
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