Aside from my teenage shenanigans, I mounted a hitch to be two chassis that didn’t have one and those shitty cheap ass harbor freight step bits just chewed right through it, i did break it the next or 3rd time I used it.
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HOW DO YOU DRILL METAL WITH A HAND DRILL
- Thread starter CDA 455 II
- Start date
Etyler2
Your kind of Asshole
K & N filet oil also works well for a lubricant.
If you’re not making small chips it’s wrong. It’s usually from too fast and a dull bit
If you’re not making small chips it’s wrong. It’s usually from too fast and a dull bit
Wut?
If you're not making long chips, you're doing it wrong.
I well ground, sharp drill with good feed pressure should make chips something like this:
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
The best way to drill a usable hole is to start with a center punch mark in the correct location 
Transfer punches are a great tool to have.
Transfer punches are a great tool to have.
buzzbombxj
Not too samrt
No love for the Lennox lube tube? Better then oil in almost any drilling application. Sharpening by hand is more effective than a drill dr once you get the hang if it. Err on the side of a shallower angle. I prefer a flap wheel or sanding disk but you can use almost anything
JMAN3203
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My coworkers are on setting two, full speed for everything and then think drilling, especially stainless, is hard. I actually find 304 stainless to be somewhat enjoyable. It leaves an awesome finish if your bits don't suck.
I like my drill indexes. Have a metal case one (off brand; is kind of a POS) and a round plastic one with the twist off cap. The plastic one is fairly rugged and keeps things organized. But I keep it to myself so I don't have to worry about idiots using it, also stock up on regularly used drills.
That's actually my go to, .045" cutoff wheel for everything. 3/16" is about the smallest I can get fairly easily and even put a split point on it for center cutting.
I agree. Can usually sharpen a bit by hand, usually just tuning it up, in a quarter the time of a drill doctor.
To add to what others have said, I love step bits, I snap the ends off usually, but keep a 12 pack of 3/16" bits laying around to start all holes, so it's not that big of a deal. My Milwaukee set has drilled probably a thousand or more holes in all sorts of metal. If I need a 1/2" thru-hole in a piece of 3/8" stainless, I can drill my pilot, and then just power through the rest with the bit and a little bit of tap magic, they honestly don't care. (SLOW SPEED THOUGH) On top of that, they don't do the oblong crap that twist bits tend to do on larger sizes and non-rigid setups. You can even drill a hole halfway, or almost, on another hole without too much of an issue. For routine thicker stuff though or where you want to add a chamfer, Champion makes a XSR line of step bits. As most all regular step bits have 1/16-1/8" increments, these do 1/2". They are pricey though and since the steps are much further apart, you have to buy a set basically. They're 5/16-9/16", 9/16-13/16", and 13/16"-1 1/16".
Also, step bits drill oversized holes if that's ever a factor. (Guessing .005"-.010)
And when possible, just buy drill bits with the flats if hand drilling, can't stand fucked up shanks on every drill bit. Though if you're any of the people I work with, you could spin on a hex so it won't matter.
Proof below
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Thats rather impressive
Lbhsbz
Toyota Fag
Pilot hole should be just larger than the web of the final drill. High speed on your pilot hole, low speed on your 1/2" hole, high pressure on both. Go to home depot and get some Oatey's dark thread cutting oil in the steel pipe fitting section...use that. WD40 is for cutting aluminum.
It takes a fair amount of HP to drill a 1/2" hole correctly and keep the drill happy....most battery drill motors aren't gonna have what it takes. Correctly will result in 2 big long curly chips. If you're getting dust/small chips, you're not feeding it hard enough and that's hard on drills.
It takes a fair amount of HP to drill a 1/2" hole correctly and keep the drill happy....most battery drill motors aren't gonna have what it takes. Correctly will result in 2 big long curly chips. If you're getting dust/small chips, you're not feeding it hard enough and that's hard on drills.
mudmilitia
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hole saw or watch some Pakistani truck videos
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Bggrnchvy
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Buy a center drill.
The tip is fragile in regards to side load, but otherwise they hold up great.
Drill the center out, then use a step bit or a twist drill if you can support the pressure needed. A small 2x4 makes a great lever to apply pressure to the back of the hand drill if you have a fulcrum.
Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
The tip is fragile in regards to side load, but otherwise they hold up great.
Drill the center out, then use a step bit or a twist drill if you can support the pressure needed. A small 2x4 makes a great lever to apply pressure to the back of the hand drill if you have a fulcrum.
Muckin_Slusher
****
Strap or loop of rope around (or screwed to) what you're drilling as the fulcrum. It's adjustable too.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
The best way to drill a usable hole is to start with a center punch mark in the correct location
Transfer punches are a great tool to have.
Ok, you'll need to have transfer punches that keep the point after the first use.
I bought a set of punches from McMaster a while ago and just got around to using the 7/16" one. After the first use the little point is mushed down. I guess if I slather Dykem and spin the punch.................but that sucks.
AlxJ64
Rust is Paint
Ok, you'll need to have transfer punches that keep the point after the first use.
I bought a set of punches from McMaster a while ago and just got around to using the 7/16" one. After the first use the little point is mushed down. I guess if I slather Dykem and spin the punch.................but that sucks.
I feel this pain. I picked up a set of the Fowlers from Penn Tool a few years ago and likewise; just a few light strikes on some A50 plate and dulled the points. I have half a mind to reshape the few that are like this and then heat and quench them to see if it helps with the longevity any.
In the regards to the center drill, I have been buying "spotting drills" from McMaster whenever doing any precise work on the mill, and then also use them in my hand drill. They are really great to use in my little 90 degree Milwaukee if drilling a hole in a tight spot with no clearance for a full body drill.
Ok, you'll need to have transfer punches that keep the point after the first use.
I bought a set of punches from McMaster a while ago and just got around to using the 7/16" one. After the first use the little point is mushed down. I guess if I slather Dykem and spin the punch.................but that sucks.
What kind of punches. Not all punches are made for marking/transferring.
I highly recommend spring loaded ones. I have a few of these and have yet to wear out the tip on one. These give you a great dimple for starting a 1/8" or 3/16" pilot.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
What kind of punches. Not all punches are made for marking/transferring.
I highly recommend spring loaded ones. I have a few of these and have yet to wear out the tip on one. These give you a great dimple for starting a 1/8" or 3/16" pilot.
I bought transfer punches. Flat blunt end with a little machined tit in the center.
edit:
This....
I have used the 3/4" at least 30 times and it's still pointy. I guess the 7/16" failed heat treat day.
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CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
I saw them.I bought transfer punches. Flat blunt end with a little machined tit in the center.
edit:
This....
I have used the 3/4" at least 30 times and it's still pointy. I guess the 7/16" failed heat treat day.
So they're just another kind of punch?
They're for transferring a through-hole on to a another surface. They come in a full selection of diameters so you pick the one that's a tight fit in the hole and it transfers the perfect center of that hole on to the new surface.
They also make this style for transferring blind holes. Same concept - different diameters for a perfect fit in an existing hole. I used these to duplicate a transfer case flange for an adapter.
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Those are badass to have. Seems like most clowns fuck them up as they hit them like they are driving a nail. We always made the shorties out of a bolt on a lathe. Course we didnt use them a lot.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
There's also a version of these that is for marking holes for dzus fasteners.
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PAToyota
Red Skull Member
Another variation is the transfer screw:
The point in the middle has a hex around it so you can put them in and take them out with the handle.
You can make do with a transfer punch or blind hole spotter, but being able to thread them in can make it easier to keep everything aligned.
You typically buy the spotters and screws in sets with multiples. A through hole you can clamp the piece in place and then go around to mark each hole, but blind holes you generally want to mark all at once.
The point in the middle has a hex around it so you can put them in and take them out with the handle.
You can make do with a transfer punch or blind hole spotter, but being able to thread them in can make it easier to keep everything aligned.
You typically buy the spotters and screws in sets with multiples. A through hole you can clamp the piece in place and then go around to mark each hole, but blind holes you generally want to mark all at once.
True. Light taps to make a small dot and then use a regular punch to make it deeper if needed.
PAToyota
Red Skull Member
Reason number eleventy-brazillion not to loan out tools - when a coworker asks to borrow your transfer punches and you turn around a minute later to see him holding a 5-pound sledge in his other hand...
Ever try a DCD130? Damn thing is geared so low and has more torque than you'll know what to do with.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Interesting; a mixer/drill.Ever try a DCD130? Damn thing is geared so low and has more torque than you'll know what to do with.
Muckin_Slusher
****
That's the drill that people should be using with the ice auger attachments.Ever try a DCD130? Damn thing is geared so low and has more torque than you'll know what to do with.
Everyone I know is using regular old super fast drills, and while they do the job, they're NOT happy about it.
Muckin_Slusher
****
That's the drill that people should be using with the ice auger attachments.Ever try a DCD130? Damn thing is geared so low and has more torque than you'll know what to do with.
Everyone I know is using regular old super fast cordless drills, and while they do the job, they've NOT happy about it.
Lbhsbz
Toyota Fag
Ok, now lean on it hard enough and try to hang on to get the appropriate feeds and speeds. Mag drill or drill press/mill is the right way.Ever try a DCD130? Damn thing is geared so low and has more torque than you'll know what to do with.
Oh 110% ... I never have good luck with hand drilling large sizes without my drill press or milling machine. I'd love to get a mag drill but for the handful of big holes I freehand drill in plate each year, it just hasn't been worth it.
Lbhsbz
Toyota Fag
yep...drill bits are cheaper.