HOW DO YOU DRILL METAL WITH A HAND DRILL

[WaterH]

Fixxed.

Indeed you did.

 

[Jblack6527]

Just as an addition to this, Crisco is a decent lubricant for stainless. Plus it smells good when you get it hot.

 

[CDA 455 II]

I should have clarified.

I was looking for general tips/principles of drilling holes.
The metal I usually drill is stock variety I get from Ace Hardware; thickness up to 1/4".

Today I drilled four holes through 3/8" steel plate:

 

[3nuts*]

What a lot has been said plus:

I often use the clutch feature of battery drills to save drill bits or wrists from breaking as required.

And if you sharpen your own bits, I make the cutting face/edges flatter for steel than the usual compromise 60 deg that they do for general use metal/wood twist drills. And also for steel I put a flatter relief on them so it gives more strength for the cutting edge, which means the cutting edge lasts longer.

Didn't see anyone say it, but your pilot hole isn't meant to be more than 1/4 of your next drill size.
As in the pilot hole should only be a little bigger than that flat tip part of the drill bit that does jack shit when drilling.

Extra, probably unwanted info, but might help:
For wood, I make the cutting face/edge steeper than 60 deg and put more relief on them.
It will drill like a mofo, so to control the drilling speed you need to flatten the relief. The relief controls the drill depth speed type thing. Too much relief and it will act like a screw if that makes sense to yall

 

[CDA 455 II]

I used ATF for lube/coolant and a fresh Dewalt pilot point cobalt drill bit when I drilled 3/8" steel plate.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

For 1/4 and under this set will change your life.

Blair Equipment 11090 Rotabroach Cutter Kit https://a.co/d/9NjPqzY

Just to be clear, when you say 1/4 inch, you mean the thickness of the material (not hole diameters).

Those 11000 series rotabroachs WILL cut up to 1/2 inch thick with almost all the bits. A couple of them are just a hair too short to do 1/2 inch material, but once you bottom out, you can "drill" the slug of metal left with a regular twist drill to gain the clearance needed to finish off the hole.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Used to be able to buy a sleeve of 10 3/16" drill bits at Lowe's, try worked really well for pilot holes. Last bunch lasted me a long time, looked recently and didn't see anything like that.

I buy the double ended chinesium cobalt ones on eBay. I used 1/8. I'm sure you could find 3/16

 

[Animalmother]

I often use the clutch feature of battery drills to save drill bits or wrists from breaking as required.

I dont get why more people dont do this vs drilling with their big gay Milwaukee on full power full torque, ready to reign down hell the first time it gets hung up.

 

[3nuts*]

I dont get why more people dont do this vs drilling with their big gay Milwaukee on full power full torque, ready to reign down hell the first time it gets hung up.

We call Milwaukee the dark pink tools

Clutch can work really well if used properly hey

 

[AlxJ64]

You would be surprised how crooked you're holding the drill if you stop and look at it from every angle. I always figure out I'm crooked when the drill catches and bashes me.

In my experience, when you're not getting shavings you're messing up. With holes that big in my drill press I'm usually getting the best results around 1,200 RPM with mild pressure letting the drill bit do the work.

This^

I like these for getting the hole started and going if its through something too thick that the blair kit won't do it. I also have a few homemade ones that are drilled for the OD of common smaller hand taps so that I can start a hand tap straight (I use spirial gun taps in my cordless on low speed with the guide block for starting them)

I'll also support the fact that WD40 sucks for drilling holes. Just order a decent size can of Tap Magic or similar and take care of it. It lasts a lot longer than you realize.

Something not mentioned yet is chip color as well. If they are coming out blue you are going too fast or pushing too hard. Golden is usually a sign you are making some heat but with cutting oil that is fine. If they are metallic and curly, you are doing okay and not killing the bit. If you are making powdery chips and it aint cast material... you need a new drill bit, more oil, or to push harder.

I start a lot of holes with a #30 double ended cheap spotter bit. They are like $1.35 ea and I buy 10 packs. I like the #30 because I use them for rivet work and they give enough clearance. Then step up the drill sizes from there. With a hand drill going to 1/2", its usually the #30 first, then a good sharp 1/4" and then on up to the 1/2". If its SS or something weird, then I sometimes throw in a 3/8" step as well.

Speaking of steps. If its 1/8" or thinner... that's started with a #30 and then I use a decent step bit or the Blair Kit.

If its thin sheet and bigger than 3/4"... its the #30, the step bit up to 3/4" and then the Swag Tube size knock out kits with a Hydraulic knockout puller, or the shop press if the part fits in that.


The drill doctor 750x is a clunky bastard but after years of screwing with it, I can usually salvage nicer brand bits up to around 3/4". I also have a Sterling Grinder for +1/2" up to 2-1/2". A drill gauge is necessary too for making sure you grind the leads even if doing it by hand.

I don't know shit about drill bits though.

 

[Bacho]

For 1/4 and under this set will change your life.

Blair Equipment 11090 Rotabroach Cutter Kit https://a.co/d/9NjPqzY

Cost me $85. I have some stainless to drill in an upcoming project.

 

[CarterKraft]

Just to be clear, when you say 1/4 inch, you mean the thickness of the material (not hole diameters).

Those 11000 series rotabroachs WILL cut up to 1/2 inch thick with almost all the bits. A couple of them are just a hair too short to do 1/2 inch material, but once you bottom out, you can "drill" the slug of metal left with a regular twist drill to gain the clearance needed to finish off the hole.

Yeah thickness and you are right about the depth but I was trying to avoid telling folks this is the last drill bit you will ever buy or some shit like that and then they can't get through a piece of 1/2" with their $90 drill bit set...

 

[bdkw1]

I don't know shit about drill bits though.

MT drills have nothing to do with hand drilling. At least in this century

I use pilot drills and bridge reamers for most stuff. Large hand drilled holes aren't that great, they have a tendency to go triangular shaped.

 

[posford]

MT drills have nothing to do with hand drilling. At least in this century

I use pilot drills and bridge reamers for most stuff. Large hand drilled holes aren't that great, they have a tendency to go triangular shaped.

Worked at a place that had a large Milwaukee hand drill that took Morse taper drills. Course they bolted that fucker to a contraption that you could chain to something, adjust the height, and drill like a mag drill.

It sucked.

Bridge reams rock

 

[Rockwood]

This^

I like these for getting the hole started and going if its through something too thick that the blair kit won't do it. I also have a few homemade ones that are drilled for the OD of common smaller hand taps so that I can start a hand tap straight (I use spirial gun taps in my cordless on low speed with the guide block for starting them)

I'll also support the fact that WD40 sucks for drilling holes. Just order a decent size can of Tap Magic or similar and take care of it. It lasts a lot longer than you realize.

Something not mentioned yet is chip color as well. If they are coming out blue you are going too fast or pushing too hard. Golden is usually a sign you are making some heat but with cutting oil that is fine. If they are metallic and curly, you are doing okay and not killing the bit. If you are making powdery chips and it aint cast material... you need a new drill bit, more oil, or to push harder.

I start a lot of holes with a #30 double ended cheap spotter bit. They are like $1.35 ea and I buy 10 packs. I like the #30 because I use them for rivet work and they give enough clearance. Then step up the drill sizes from there. With a hand drill going to 1/2", its usually the #30 first, then a good sharp 1/4" and then on up to the 1/2". If its SS or something weird, then I sometimes throw in a 3/8" step as well.

Speaking of steps. If its 1/8" or thinner... that's started with a #30 and then I use a decent step bit or the Blair Kit.

If its thin sheet and bigger than 3/4"... its the #30, the step bit up to 3/4" and then the Swag Tube size knock out kits with a Hydraulic knockout puller, or the shop press if the part fits in that.


The drill doctor 750x is a clunky bastard but after years of screwing with it, I can usually salvage nicer brand bits up to around 3/4". I also have a Sterling Grinder for +1/2" up to 2-1/2". A drill gauge is necessary too for making sure you grind the leads even if doing it by hand.

I don't know shit about drill bits though.

Obviously not. If you did, you wouldn't need to write that info down on your arm.

 

[WaterH]

That’s the first tattoo I’ve seen that worth something. Be better if it was tap/drill size chart.

 

[Steve300xcw]

Worked at a place that had a large Milwaukee hand drill that took Morse taper drills. Course they bolted that fucker to a contraption that you could chain to something, adjust the height, and drill like a mag drill.

It sucked.

Theres a shop nearby that has one set up in a cart for drilling truck frames. He is pretty proud of that thing too

 

[Rockwood]

That’s the first tattoo I’ve seen that worth something. Be better if it was tap/drill size chart.

Straight from Canuckistan:

https://ave.creator-spring.com/listing/TapDrill_US?product=2

Or, in science units if you're feeling International.

https://ave.creator-spring.com/listing/Metric_US?product=2&variation=569&size=284

 

[posford]

Theres a shop nearby that has one set up in a cart for drilling truck frames. He is pretty proud of that thing too

Similar concept. I punched a 1-1/2" hole in a 100 year old hydro runner with it, it sucked

 

[Duc]

Also screw drill indexs, not sure why everyone loves the crappy things but a drill cabinet from Huot is much better. Never fails that someone ruins a drill bit before putting it back in the index. Drawers for fraction bits, Letter bits and number bits.

The one at work is plum full of cobalt drills versus mine is a work in progress. The common size drill bits for taps are cobalt but not the rarely used bits.

 

[Steve300xcw]

Indexes are handy in a truck. But its nice just to buy the sizes you are going to use

 

[CDA 455 II]

This^

I like these for getting the hole started and going if its through something too thick that the blair kit won't do it. I also have a few homemade ones that are drilled for the OD of common smaller hand taps so that I can start a hand tap straight (I use spirial gun taps in my cordless on low speed with the guide block for starting them)

I'll also support the fact that WD40 sucks for drilling holes. Just order a decent size can of Tap Magic or similar and take care of it. It lasts a lot longer than you realize.

Something not mentioned yet is chip color as well. If they are coming out blue you are going too fast or pushing too hard. Golden is usually a sign you are making some heat but with cutting oil that is fine. If they are metallic and curly, you are doing okay and not killing the bit. If you are making powdery chips and it aint cast material... you need a new drill bit, more oil, or to push harder.

I start a lot of holes with a #30 double ended cheap spotter bit. They are like $1.35 ea and I buy 10 packs. I like the #30 because I use them for rivet work and they give enough clearance. Then step up the drill sizes from there. With a hand drill going to 1/2", its usually the #30 first, then a good sharp 1/4" and then on up to the 1/2". If its SS or something weird, then I sometimes throw in a 3/8" step as well.

Speaking of steps. If its 1/8" or thinner... that's started with a #30 and then I use a decent step bit or the Blair Kit.

If its thin sheet and bigger than 3/4"... its the #30, the step bit up to 3/4" and then the Swag Tube size knock out kits with a Hydraulic knockout puller, or the shop press if the part fits in that.


The drill doctor 750x is a clunky bastard but after years of screwing with it, I can usually salvage nicer brand bits up to around 3/4". I also have a Sterling Grinder for +1/2" up to 2-1/2". A drill gauge is necessary too for making sure you grind the leads even if doing it by hand.

I don't know shit about drill bits though.

Can you opine on drill bit sharpeners?

There was a long thread at the old site that flowed similar to a political topic.
Somewhat heated at times.

IIRC; it was undecided/split on the validity of said sharpeners.

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

WD40 isnt good lube for anything.

I drilled (50) 1" plates the other day
using WD
smoked right through them

having the skill to sharpen a bit is the key
I use WD on most everything

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

Can you opine on drill bit sharpeners?

There was a long thread at the old site that flowed similar to a political topic.
Somewhat heated at times.

IIRC; it was undecided/split on the validity of said sharpeners.

Never used anything but bench grinders to sharpen drill bits. It's a skill that is very worth learning.

I've also sharpened using zip disk blades on battery grinders, with great success, especially when working in some wet shit-hole with nothing but your drill, grinder and your wits to build something and make it work.

...and you look like fucking GOD when you tune up the last drill bit on said zip disk, saving everyone having to climb hundreds of feet up a shaft.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I was using my angle grinder in the vise to sharpen bits for three years before I decided I gave enough fucks to mount my bench grinder somewhere.

Maybe one day I'll give enough fucks to install the drill guide that's collecting dust behind the grinder.

 

[CDA 455 II]

I got these on my 'to buy' list:

 

[CarterKraft]

I don't know if this stuff is actually good but it is nice to use, a little blob of foam out of the straw right where you put it, it stays put too.

 

[Gravy]

Having drilled alot of 316/304 stainless and 1" thick mild with hand drills, here are my thoughts.

spin that bit SLOW. I mean count the rpms by eye sight almost stalling the drill slow. if you see smoke you're done. The drill bit will get warm and you should be able to touch it after.

Apply consistent even pressure, don't jerk it off. Use a ratchet strap around the drill when you're tired

You'll see long spiral chips when you hit the right rpm and Stepper bits on sheetmetal.

Home depot drill press or equivalent is not slow enough and will smoke a bit.

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

Having drilled alot of 316/304 stainless and 1" thick mild with hand drills, here are my thoughts.

spin that bit SLOW. I mean count the rpms by eye sight almost stalling the drill slow. if you see smoke you're done. The drill bit will get warm and you should be able to touch it after.

Apply consistent even pressure, don't jerk it off. Use a ratchet strap around the drill when you're tired

You'll see long spiral chips when you hit the right rpm and Stepper bits on sheetmetal.

Home depot drill press or equivalent is not slow enough and will smoke a bit.

All the recommended RPMs are going to be on any generic drill bit chart, and will be variable
let the smoke out? I have had to open the shop door to let the smoke out, it just depends on what your application is

 

[Projectjunkie]

I start at 1/8" and work my way up, use oil, typically atf or engine oil. Often take the call off an almost empty oil quart bottle or whatever and fill it, then dip the bit

I go slower with more pressure than seems natural.

Work my way up in size.

Typically dip a bit in oil every 1/4" of material



That's the best method I've found, anything else loses bits and productivity