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Hoses for hydro steering

welndmn said:
I always wanted to find the crimp blocks that would fit into my 50 ton press to make my own hose ends.
Most of use already have a decent press, I don't need something else to take up room in the shop when I just want to crimp a few hoses.
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Doesn't crimp from 1 direction.
 
i have been going to the farm store, TSC, MIlls, Theisen's or what ever. they carry about any imaginable length. all pipe thread though. then i convert to jic. super easy to find a hose in a pinch. easy to carry spares also on the trailer. for me they just work.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Only one 90 degree fitting per hose so the timing does not need to be perfect.
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this.

plumbing like wiring gets over complicated and fails because its at the end of the build, rushed, corners cut because you are out of money and slapped together because it was not taken into account when building things. more stainless hardline from the front to the back of the car needs to be considered and used. cleaner, simpler, stronger and better in all ways except the initial install.
 
mobil1syn said:
this.

plumbing like wiring gets over complicated and fails because its at the end of the build, rushed, corners cut because you are out of money and slapped together because it was not taken into account when building things. more stainless hardline from the front to the back of the car needs to be considered and used. cleaner, simpler, stronger and better in all ways except the initial install.
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Not possible on some stuff, plus fittings can be $50+ each.
TimJus said:
very hard...............
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I just tried on some junk -12 lines to make sure I'm not imagining things. nope.

I've had to wrestle -16 and -24 lines that were off just a bit.
 
welndmn said:
It's a cone....
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Yeah, but it's the dies, holder, etc that's the expensive part.

Used to always be deals of getting a free crimper with purchase of a few grand if hose and fittings but I haven't seen that for a while.
 
AKnate said:
Not possible on some stuff, plus fittings can be $50+ each.


I just tried on some junk -12 lines to make sure I'm not imagining things. nope.

I've had to wrestle -16 and -24 lines that were off just a bit.
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I just picked one up out of the scrap pile and I’ll be dammed, it turned. It was solid till I horsed on it then once it turned it a couple times it turns suspiciously east. Don’t think I’d be trying that with one of my good hoses unless I really needed too.
 
Ive been using fragola (currently) or aeroquip PTFE steel braided hose and fittings for the last 15yrs. I put them on every build at my shop. To date there have been zero issues or failures, and they are field serviceable if there is an issue
 
mobil1syn said:
having worked on a car with 90% stainless hardlines i would respectfully disagree
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mobil1syn said:
having worked on a car with 90% stainless hardlines i would respectfully disagree
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I'm talking about hydraulic systems in general.
Imagine the mess of fittings going from something like a Komatsu or JIS fitting to JIC for several dozen hoses.
 
Who gives a crap about that? The discussion is about hydro steering on wheeling rig.
 
Just did a set up and ordered from DHH. Got R16 hose as it has a bend radius half that of R1 or 2 with same pressure and temp specs.

Push locks went fragola from Summitt and field serviceable fittings from PSC mostly.

I wanted it all from DHH but they didn't anything except straight pressure fittings and the push locks were only the gold zinc with yellow hose guards which I couldn't do.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
I use Gates hose, fittings, and have a crimper. Gates has the most dummy proof JIC nuts that don't stretch when they get over torqued.
The hose is MegaTuff SAE100R17 Flame Resistant 3K pressure rating. Its a tough hard cover that is slick so it doesn't chaff or get cut, also doesn't dry out and crack like a lot of the soft rubber jacket hose. Still can make tight bends though.
All hose ends are JIC female swivel.
Only one 90 degree fitting per hose so the timing does not need to be perfect. Use an adapter 90 degree tube sweep if needed on the other end.
I have plenty of extra hose and fittings in 3/8" and 1/2" if anyone is interested, DM me.
Whoever cuts the hose, make sure to blow it out before fittings go on, otherwise you will catch debris on the barb.
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Agreed on the Gates fittings; my go to as well.

I make my own hoses and also that for a few friends, family farm, friends of family farm, etc. I picked up a used crimper with some dies and just keep a log of my stop plate stack and die for the various combinations of hose brands, fitting brands, and relative sizes. I go through DHH for crimp fittings that I don't already have from buying random buckets or lots on FBMP or at auctions. I think I paid $1k for my machine plus a 5 gallon bucket of ORFS stuff. Way worth it in the long run.
 
NDCjeepsmith said:
Just did a set up and ordered from DHH. Got R16 hose as it has a bend radius half that of R1 or 2 with same pressure and temp specs.

Push locks went fragola from Summitt and field serviceable fittings from PSC mostly.

I wanted it all from DHH but they didn't anything except straight pressure fittings and the push locks were only the gold zinc with yellow hose guards which I couldn't do.
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What pushlok is rated for high pressure?
 
AKnate said:
I'm talking about hydraulic systems in general.
Imagine the mess of fittings going from something like a Komatsu or JIS fitting to JIC for several dozen hoses.
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huh? im talking about -AN everything. bulkhead fitting at each end of the stainless line, small jumper to the item if vibration is a concern, if not run the stainless direct.
 
AKnate said:
What pushlok is rated for high pressure?
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Probably for the return system in the case above... the stuff from DHH is 250 psi working pressure.
I have it as return hoses on my hydro boost system on my Carryall as well as the majority of the fuel system is the same stuff. I started buying from them about 10+ years ago and still seems fine. I cut a piece off last fall moving some fuel lines around and it was fine. Re-used the aeroquip fittings that were on the old piece.
 
Continental push lock is usually a 300 psi rating.

I'd just go to the closest hydraulic shop. Their fittings are way cheaper than you will find online or at TSC.
 
Regarding the issue of the hose and fittings spinning. Parker and other brands have a smooth outer ferrule that crimps down and keeps pressure between the barb and the inner hose forming a series of oring like seals to hold pressure. Since the hose sees smooth in side and out it can spin and still seal until the inner “oring” gets chewed up from abrasion while spinning.
Gates fittings have a serrated band that bites through the hose cover and into the wires forming a secure non rotating connection.
SS braided brake line hose with plastic/rubber cover need the cover removed so the ferrule can crimp down on the wire to hold.
Pressure rating and braid style will change the fitting attachment method. But for medium pressure you will see a lot of fittings with soft connections that can spin when the rubber has taken shape and lost its friction hold or been over torqued.
 
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I built my car with field serviceable fittings and then ordered a set of crimped hoses from Discount hydraulic. I order all my fittings from them and the typically ship fast.
 
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