help me buy a shitbox tractor

[87manche]

I didn't say they were common, but they exist, which is why the whole point was:

MAKE SURE YOU CAN BUY PARTS BEFORE BUYING A SHITBOX TRACTOR OF ANY BRAND.

 

[Projectjunkie]

How old are you?

How's your credit?

Got $250-300 mo?

You might be in a great position to finance a brand new slightly smaller tractor and never need to work on it, then sell it at a profit when you're old as fuck


Or, do you like working on old tractors?


I'd seriously consider putting that 7k to work fixing up your house and playing some dealers against each other, the little tractors are starting to plug up the lots I'm sure

 

[IowaOffRoad]

How old are you?

How's your credit?

Got $250-300 mo?

You might be in a great position to finance a brand new slightly smaller tractor and never need to work on it, then sell it at a profit when you're old as fuck


Or, do you like working on old tractors?


I'd seriously consider putting that 7k to work fixing up your house and playing some dealers against each other, the little tractors are starting to plug up the lots I'm sure

Or, buy the right tractor that won't require any work for 7k? BTW I've worked on plenty of 100hr Orange and Green late-model compact tractors that are broke stupidly. What are you, a Kubota dealer?
How do you make a profit spending 20-30K when one that's 3 years old is 12k? Dunno how that math works, unless you are counting on inflation to make up the difference. I talk to plenty of people who bought new tractors 20-40 years ago. Yes, they are in some cases worth more than the initial purchase price, but hamburger was $0.75/# then too.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Hey I resemble that remark, except the rich part behold a $50k engine plucker

You need an old open cab machine so you can start it and run the levers while standing beside it. Makes for great engine picking.

 

[Projectjunkie]

Or, buy the right tractor that won't require any work for 7k? BTW I've worked on plenty of 100hr Orange and Green late-model compact tractors that are broke stupidly. What are you, a Kubota dealer?
How do you make a profit spending 20-30K when one that's 3 years old is 12k? Dunno how that math works, unless you are counting on inflation to make up the difference. I talk to plenty of people who bought new tractors 20-40 years ago. Yes, they are in some cases worth more than the initial purchase price, but hamburger was $0.75/# then too.

Yes, an inflation hedge.
Dump the 7k into the property now to do other shit "the right way" maybe it's replacing the roof, or plumbing, or a sizable chunk of a workshop or storage building, whatever
and put a brand new tractor to work at 0% interest, and not have to fuck with a fixer upper tractor and a fixer upper property at the same time.


Not a kubota dealer.

A guy with 2 fixerupper properties, 2 fixer upper backhoes, no free time, and an extra 300mo

 

[Squatch]

Find yourself a 200 Series Massey Ferguson with whatever specs you want, and buy it. Perkins diesel, simple electrical system, easily converted to a chevy alternator if it hasn't already been done, solid wet brakes on most of them, can be had with a cab if that's important to you...... They're hard to beat.

I have a 70's model Massey Ferguson 265, a late 90's model 2955 John Deere, and a early 2000's New Holland TN65 with a loader.

Unless I specifically need the loader (New Holland) for something, or I need the big tractor (John Deere) for the pulling power, I get on the old Massey every time.

No bullshit electronics to worry about, no stupid external plumbing that I have to worry about hanging on a stump and tearing off, no moronic parts pricing if i do have to work on it...

 

[45acp]

Or, buy the right tractor that won't require any work for 7k? BTW I've worked on plenty of 100hr Orange and Green late-model compact tractors that are broke stupidly. What are you, a Kubota dealer?
How do you make a profit spending 20-30K when one that's 3 years old is 12k? Dunno how that math works, unless you are counting on inflation to make up the difference. I talk to plenty of people who bought new tractors 20-40 years ago. Yes, they are in some cases worth more than the initial purchase price, but hamburger was $0.75/# then too.

You are literally in LALA land. That brand new $20k kubota is not 12k at 3yrs old. It's 18k. And actually it's $15k at 15 years old and neglected all to shit because the suburban yuppie that bought it never did shit but dump fuel in and and run over shit. That's why (smaller sizes only) you don't bother with used unless it's really really old and some special exception.

BTDT

 

[xr-nut]

You need an old open cab machine so you can start it and run the levers while standing beside it. Makes for great engine picking.

you saw the door open right...........

and without that cab, i could get hot sitting in there...as you put it......"doesn't really need to get anything done"

 

[IowaOffRoad]

You are literally in LALA land. That brand new $20k kubota is not 12k at 3yrs old. It's 18k. And actually it's $15k at 15 years old and neglected all to shit because the suburban yuppie that bought it never did shit but dump fuel in and and run over shit. That's why (smaller sizes only) you don't bother with used unless it's really really old and some special exception.

BTDT

Perhaps it's regional. You aren't going to take just a 2k hit on your compact tractor at 3 years old here.

 

[87manche]

You need an old open cab machine so you can start it and run the levers while standing beside it. Makes for great engine picking.

you're just jealous that his tractor has working climate control and your beater DD probably doesn't.

 

[bgaidan]

so you're solid to a 15K lb machine.

 

[bgaidan]

Perhaps it's regional. You aren't going to take just a 2k hit on your compact tractor at 3 years old here.

You're right. In the last 2 years, you'd be making about 5k over what you paid for it 3 years ago.

 

[IowaOffRoad]

You're right. In the last 2 years, you'd be making about 5k over what you paid for it 3 years ago

Can you project that forward? I'm not considering the last 12 months normal.

 

[aczlan]

I would not advise a Ford 3000 or 4000. They run a 3 cylinder engine that is super funky and harder to tune. Had a 4000 and hated it.

Note that only the first couple years of the 3000 and 4000 had 4 cylinder engines and the remaining 8(?) years had 3 cylinder engines.
From what I have read, the 3 cylinder diesels are supposed to be close to bulletproof.


Here is a Ford 3910 for $5500, no loader, but it does have a rollbar: ford tractor - farm & garden - by owner - sale

And a Massey 135 for $2500 (also no loader): Massey Ferguson 135 diesel tractor - farm & garden - by owner - sale


And finally a Bush Hog 2400 loader that should fit either for $2000 (the Ford is a better tractor though IMO): BUSHHOG 2400 FRONT END LOADER - farm & garden - by owner - sale

Aaron Z

 

[clodhopper]

Note that only the first couple years of the 3000 and 4000 had 4 cylinder engines and the remaining 8(?) years had 3 cylinder engines.
From what I have read, the 3 cylinder diesels are supposed to be close to bulletproof.

Are the early 4 cylinder engines carryover from the Hundreds series?

The 4000 I had was a gasser. I messed with it quite a bit and it always sounded like the timing was off, even when it supposedly wasnt.

My 5000 is diesel and the same motor as the 3 cylinder, but with the last and proper cylinder. I will verify the diesel is as described, bulletproof. It starts everytime, regardless of condition or cold, on the first hit of the key with never a need for a snif of spray start. Honestly amazes me how easy it is to start. And with the 4 hole, it sounds right running.

 

[Whistlepig]

A john deere 750, 850, 790 or 990 will do what you want to do and can be found in your price range. They will probably be over it if you find one with a loader. While 4wd is nice it is not absolutely needed for most tasks.
I had a 2040 that I gave 4500 for served me well for many years until I bought a new 4044m.The simplicity of the older tractors ( No computers or emissions ) is a definite plus!

 

[gbiddlec]

A john deere 750, 850, 790 or 990 will do what you want to do and can be found in your price range. They will probably be over it if you find one with a loader. While 4wd is nice it is not absolutely needed for most tasks.
I had a 2040 that I gave 4500 for served me well for many years until I bought a new 4044m.The simplicity of the older tractors ( No computers or emissions ) is a definite plus!

I had a 750 for a short period of time and that thing wasn't much more than an overgrown lawn tractor. They are really well built though (by Yanmar). Plus he'd be limited to small implements i.e. 4' bush hog, tiller etc. and forget pulling a disk or plow with it. 790 or 990 would probably be okay but will likely be out of the price range as too new.

 

[2big bronco]

Or, buy the right tractor that won't require any work for 7k? BTW I've worked on plenty of 100hr Orange and Green late-model compact tractors that are broke stupidly. What are you, a Kubota dealer?
How do you make a profit spending 20-30K when one that's 3 years old is 12k? Dunno how that math works, unless you are counting on inflation to make up the difference. I talk to plenty of people who bought new tractors 20-40 years ago. Yes, they are in some cases worth more than the initial purchase price, but hamburger was $0.75/# then too.

A 3 year old orange or green tractor is currently 10-15% over what it stickered for. I know, I sell them all the time. A sub 5 year old l2501 will bring 22-23k all day long and most likely cost $18-20 new.


Actually 10-15% over sticker is pretty safe for any sub 500hr tractor less then 15 years old.

 

[[486]]

jjust reading the first page
I don't really like loaders on farm tractors, they're pretty much for shovelling shit, not any sorta actual digging, the frames and hydraulics and buckets are just weak looking.
They're meant to pull shit, so if you're looking to move dirt around go with a combo of a chisel plow and a box blade or an old scraper pan.

Do your lifting off the back with poles or a set of bale forks or whatever, better geometry and a stronger axle.
2wd gas motor tractors in the 30-50hp range are sub-1k around here, should be able to get a good diesel with some implements included for your 7k

 

[aczlan]

Are the early 4 cylinder engines carryover from the Hundreds series?

I believe so (same displacement and number of cylinders), but I am not an expert on those.
Was looking at picking up a 5000 series to make and move round bales with, so I dug into the various models and what made some better for my needs

The 4000 I had was a gasser. I messed with it quite a bit and it always sounded like the timing was off, even when it supposedly wasnt.

Gas especially I have no idea on, I was specifically looking for a diesel and had no interest in gas one.

My 5000 is diesel and the same motor as the 3 cylinder, but with the last and proper cylinder. I will verify the diesel is as described, bulletproof. It starts everytime, regardless of condition or cold, on the first hit of the key with never a need for a snif of spray start. Honestly amazes me how easy it is to start. And with the 4 hole, it sounds right running.

We've looked at a lot of tractors over the past couple years, my favorite tractor is one that starts when you turn the key, does what you need it to do and stays running till you shut it off.

A john deere 750, 850, 790 or 990 will do what you want to do and can be found in your price range. They will probably be over it if you find one with a loader. While 4wd is nice it is not absolutely needed for most tasks.
I had a 2040 that I gave 4500 for served me well for many years until I bought a new 4044m.The simplicity of the older tractors ( No computers or emissions ) is a definite plus!

A 750 will pickup 700# to full height at the pins on the loader.
That seems like it might be a little light for what the OP wants to do.

A 755/855/955 (hydrostatic transmission vs the gear transmission in the 750/850/950) would be better for close quarters maneuvering and loader work. It will be worse for ground engaging work like pulling a plow, but if you aren't planning on doing it all day you should be okay with it.


Aaron Z

 

[AKnate]

You need an old open cab machine so you can start it and run the levers while standing beside it. Makes for great engine picking.

I pulled an OM352a engine and trans with my Bobcat. Thankfully had help. Valve body is getting worn and the loader arms won't stay up.

 

[Whistlepig]

I had a 750 for a short period of time and that thing wasn't much more than an overgrown lawn tractor. They are really well built though (by Yanmar). Plus he'd be limited to small implements i.e. 4' bush hog, tiller etc. and forget pulling a disk or plow with it. 790 or 990 would probably be okay but will likely be out of the price range as too new.

Well he didn't say how big of a garden he wants to plow He should be able to find a 2040 or similar for that price. I pulled a 6' disc a many a miles with mine.

 

[Whistlepig]

I believe so (same displacement and number of cylinders), but I am not an expert on those.
Was looking at picking up a 5000 series to make and move round bales with, so I dug into the various models and what made some better for my needs

Gas especially I have no idea on, I was specifically looking for a diesel and had no interest in gas one.


We've looked at a lot of tractors over the past couple years, my favorite tractor is one that starts when you turn the key, does what you need it to do and stays running till you shut it off.

A 750 will pickup 700# to full height at the pins on the loader.
That seems like it might be a little light for what the OP wants to do.

A 755/855/955 (hydrostatic transmission vs the gear transmission in the 750/850/950) would be better for close quarters maneuvering and loader work. It will be worse for ground engaging work like pulling a plow, but if you aren't planning on doing it all day you should be okay with it.


Aaron Z

He is most likely not going to find any of them with a loader in that price range though.

 

[2big bronco]

Something like this should run forever with little problems. Id focus more on lightly used then "rebuilt"

 

[IowaOffRoad]

A 3 year old orange or green tractor is currently 10-15% over what it stickered for. I know, I sell them all the time. A sub 5 year old l2501 will bring 22-23k all day long and most likely cost $18-20 new.


Actually 10-15% over sticker is pretty safe for any sub 500hr tractor less then 15 years old.

If this were true 100% of the time everywhere why is nobody buying them by the 100’s, setting on them for 3 years and reselling them? I should be able to walk into any bank and present them this business plan and walk out with a loan big enough to buy them by the shipping container load. You would also see dealers buying them, sitting on them for 3 years, and reselling them. Show me 1 person with this business model.
Our shop is right across the road from a kubota dealer and see how they push iron and for what price. We have good relations with the green, red, and blue dealers in the area. I work everyday with someone who was in sales for the green dealer for most of the last decade who specifically sold their 4000 series and below . If this were a guaranteed business model I would hear about it.
Keep your salesman BS about the guaranteed appreciation on these tractors, I’ve been in and around this business my whole life.
You can ask whatever you want, for the last couple years you sometimes can get it.

My problem with these compact tractors is so many people misunderstand their capabilities. There’s no magic to a kubota or any of the Japanese imports. They took a tractor that weighs like an H farmall or 800 series ford, added about the same HP as a modern garden tractor and ate up half that power with a good hydraulic system. They are not a skid steer. They aren’t a proper tractor with the weight and wheelbase. They usually come with enough gear reduction and hydraulics to do many things a skid steer and full size tractor can do occasionally. In improper hands they ALL turn into a piece of junk before the 1000hr mark. They are a glorified lawn tractor which is all many people who’ve never been on anything bigger need and are awesome for the person with 5 acres and 2 horses.

Back to my coworker who was in Deere sales: He sold plenty of the 2000 series to happy customers. They were either the farmers wife for around the house or city folks that bought a few horse acres. Everyone else that needed a real tractor ended up coming back and getting one, usually after some “non-warranty” repairs like overheating multiple times trying to run things that on paper they had enough power to run or constantly blowing seals on the hydraulics trying to move things that on paper they should be able to pick up but failed to take into account load center. Or having them run away downhill because the ass-end unloaded when they were managed to pick up a load that was marginal but didn’t account for load center shifting. Always run with them locked in 4x4 if you’re doing sketchy shit with one of these
But, maybe all these things I’ve seen, experienced myself were just figments of my imagination AND I’m missing out on “this one weird trick” to riches by not leveraging myself into 50 brand new orange or green compact tractors.
Please IBB tractor peddlers, show us how it’s done as other businesses have. Prove how lucrative financing compact tractors for profit is.
Yes 2bb I’ve seen your posts, you are scouring the for sale ads for deals and flipping them for market value. You aren’t paying market value and holding them or buying them brand new and holding them.

 

[Jag]

A 3 year old orange or green tractor is currently 10-15% over what it stickered for. I know, I sell them all the time. A sub 5 year old l2501 will bring 22-23k all day long and most likely cost $18-20 new.


Actually 10-15% over sticker is pretty safe for any sub 500hr tractor less then 15 years old.

Whats my 2017ish Bx25d worth? I dont need to sell it and its handier then a shirt pocket but if i can make some pesos on it ill send it back to Cali with you.

 

[2big bronco]

Whats my 2017ish Bx25d worth? I dont need to sell it and its handier then a shirt pocket but if i can make some pesos on it ill send it back to Cali with you.

Its so small it might fit in the plane.

How many hours and does it have the backhoe? What other attachments?

The bx's sell but take longer. 9/10 show up saying its smaller then they thought.... and eventually someone knows what they are coming for. I usually dont wait for max money on those and just dump them quick.

If under 300hrs maybe 17ish

 

[Jag]

Its so small it might fit in the plane.

How many hours and does it have the backhoe? What other attachments?

The bx's sell but take longer. 9/10 show up saying its smaller then they thought.... and eventually someone knows what they are coming for. I usually dont wait for max money on those and just dump them quick.

If under 300hrs maybe 17ish

Less then 200 hours, its a tlb so tractor loader backhoe. Pretty much loaded with factory options, even has cruise control for 8.5 mph runs around the shop. I paid extra for the 2 tooth 8” bucket, pd something post hole digger and 3 point kit. I paid msrp at the time. Im in Vegas and my biggest property is only 1/2 acre so its more of a toy then anything.

Edit: i cant find the picture but if you can work the machine it will honest to god lift and place a lifted 90s toyota extra cab body onto the frame 😎. I tend to find stupid shit to do with it just for sake of saying it did it.

Edit edit: it can also easily rip a chunk out of the 2 inch plastic gas line to the pool heater in your backyard thats not buried quite deep enough 😜

 

[ANGELO]

jjust reading the first page
I don't really like loaders on farm tractors, they're pretty much for shovelling shit, not any sorta actual digging, the frames and hydraulics and buckets are just weak looking.
They're meant to pull shit, so if you're looking to move dirt around go with a combo of a chisel plow and a box blade or an old scraper pan.

Do your lifting off the back with poles or a set of bale forks or whatever, better geometry and a stronger axle.
2wd gas motor tractors in the 30-50hp range are sub-1k around here, should be able to get a good diesel with some implements included for your 7k

Idk the loader is like the only reason I use my tractor. The 3 point forks don't lift as high and I don't want to deal with strapping stuff for a gun pole.
I have a ssqa with forks. I almost never use the bucket, always the forks.

I'm sure other machines will do it better, but it can do a little bit everything just good enough.

 

[wagfabulous]

Lol at these replies and disagreements. You've got a pretty good idea of what you can afford and what you want. Like others have said the bigger the better. If you really plan on using the bucket I'd recommend 4x4 but not a deal breaker weights and fluid are enough for some people. If you plan on keeping your 7 acres bush hogged regular I'd make sure it had shuttle shift from F to R , and the pto has its own live clutch . 50 hp is a good sized tractor for all utility needs on 7 acres. I have kubotas deeres kiotis and internationals. Mid 60s-mid 90s you should get a decent tractor for the money. Like everything else new , tractors are junk. Happy hunting