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help me buy a shitbox tractor

Buy one with a loader, obviously.

Don't buy a gasser.
It's way less work to run a POS obsolete gasser than diesel.

Need to rebuild an unobtainium carb? Any carb will fit with a simple adapter plate.

Igntiion system need an overhaul and no service parts available? Probably can make something that shouldn't fit work with minimal fuckery.

Injection pump cam wasted? Good fuckin luck finding a good solution that isn't a hell of a lot of time/money/effort.

If you're buying something new-ish that probably won't need much attention it's a wash.
 
Some people here haven't looked at used tractor/loader/backhoe/skidsteer prices lately and it shows. :laughing:



this one is a little rough but has a loader and box blade


I'd go kick it's tires. If it runs and does't have any obvious problems, jump on it. You could run that for a few years, throw a gallon of tractor paint on it and probably make a few grand.
 
The way I look at my tractor needs:

1. Am I going to abuse this machine for a bull rush plan of cleaning up a property?

If so, I'm going to buy the cheapest piece of shit tractor in the size I need with the most implements that come with the deal. Then go hog wild. When I'm done, I'm either scrapping the machine and selling the parts that are still good.

If not, I'm going to look for something just like the JD you posted. It'll do exactly what you ask of it, and if you just use and not abuse it, then it'll still be worth the money you gave for it should you decide to sell it later.
 
OP....Clodhopper and gbiddlec have some really good points in their posts as well. I don't remember what years each brand got away from being american assembled, I think some models still are but JD was in the 90's I think for most of their models. If you keep your search in the 70's to about 85, you should be good at being able to keep your maintenance type items fairly readily available. Parts may be a different story depending on how close you get to the year 1970.

Look for Ford, John deere and Case. Those were the fairly best and most reliable in that era for the size you are looking for. I would lean more towards those 3 if it were me looking. You are going to spend more for the color of the tractor too. Even on those older models. JD is going to be the more expensive brand. For comparison, I picked up a 1971 Case 1070 black knight about a year ago for $10K. At the same time a 1978 JD 2640 was going for $17K.

A Ford 4000 wouldn't be a bad option for what you're looking to do. It won't be clearing any standing timber of any size, but it'll do everything else you mentioned. And you should be able to pick one up for about half or 2/3 of your $7k budget.


Case branded tractors is a weird one, depends on specific model. Some are impossible to get parts for. Ford parts are actually still made for older tractors, just under New Holland now. Dont rule out red (international). The company no longer exists, but they made a bunch of em and they were pretty simple straight forward units. Lots in junkyards or commonly available crossover parts.

I would not advise a Ford 3000 or 4000. They run a 3 cylinder engine that is super funky and harder to tune. Had a 4000 and hated it. Traded up to a 4 cylinder 5000 and love it. If you get a real good deal on a 3000 or 4000, sure, get it, but understand you will be dealing with a 3 cylinder engine. I didnt care for it. Besides, might be a bit more that needed for 7 acres. Hard to judge really since OP wants to use it for moving heavy chit around, which generally wants a big heavy stable tractor.

I have a Ford 600, gasser. Basically a 8N/9N size but with a modern engine arrangement. About 30 hp from the factory, I am guessing a few horses has wandered off at this point. Has a normal distributor rather than the funked up one on the front the earlier ones have. Still low compression, so there is a bit of futzin with the fuel knob on the carb from time to time. But I have moved and done more with that tractor than anything else. Big enough to be stable, small enough to be nimble, and yeah 2wd. Most tractors of that era have independent rear wheel brakes, like cutting brakes, so you can get around lack of 4wd or a diff lock. It is nice to have an independent PTO, my 5000 has that, but the 600 doesnt. Not the end of the world, just takes some planning ahead when operating.

If you get too big a tractor, you will not want to use it. It will feel clunky, awkward and a pain. My 5000 gets fired up to do heavy ripping or running high needs pto work like my tiller or baler. Otherwise, everyone jumps on the 600 to get something done. That alone tells me what is the "right" size for most small property work. Loaders on this size tractor are rare and I wouldnt classify them as strong, but most tractor loader buckets kinda suck. Had one and wasnt impressed. Loader work is generally handled by my backhoe, heavier and stronger. Tractor loaders might be better than nothing, but are a bunch of barely ok. I do alot of loader type work with a box blade on the 600.
 
, it's way bigger than i need but that's rarely a bad thing
well in first tractors, too big is probably more common than in most areas.

HOw much land do you have? Do you have woods/ trees that you’d like to be able to maneuver in? How much weight do you want to pickup?

that 2440 from post 1 is almost 9 ft to the top of the stack and 7.5 ft wide; she’s a big bitch and will take a considerable amount of room to turn.
 
the problem with Ford tractors is that a whole bunch of them were imported and they slapped ford blue on them.

parts can be a PITA for some of the imports.

spoken as someone with a japanese ford tractor.
new holland wanted $300 for a glow plug relay. I stabbed a $30 kubota one in it.
Wanted $800 for a new clutch disc. I found the OEM mitsubishi one for $180 after I took it apart and saw the logos on it.

so check for parts availability before you buy anything.
 
I have a John Deere 5105 and it is a horrible tractor.

I'm also the odd man out, I hate the loader, If at all possible I'd rather have a bucket on a skid steer, and a tractor for tractoring.

I can't articulate the amount of shit I've seen torn up with a loader, from hitting fence with it, to hitting the side of a barn or house, to hitting trees branches and shit.
 
the problem with Ford tractors is that a whole bunch of them were imported and they slapped ford blue on them.

parts can be a PITA for some of the imports.

spoken as someone with a japanese ford tractor.
new holland wanted $300 for a glow plug relay. I stabbed a $30 kubota one in it.
Wanted $800 for a new clutch disc. I found the OEM mitsubishi one for $180 after I took it apart and saw the logos on it.

so check for parts availability before you buy anything.
I think the "imported" Fords you are referring to are not of the size requirements that OP is looking for.
FYI you can find more parts available internationally if you search for Shibaru and can figure out the corresponding model.
 
I have a John Deere 5105 and it is a horrible tractor.

I'm also the odd man out, I hate the loader, If at all possible I'd rather have a bucket on a skid steer, and a tractor for tractoring.

I can't articulate the amount of shit I've seen torn up with a loader, from hitting fence with it, to hitting the side of a barn or house, to hitting trees branches and shit.
sounds like you can't drive for shit. :flipoff2:
 
the problem with Ford tractors is that a whole bunch of them were imported and they slapped ford blue on them.

Could be and wouldnt surprise me. I pretty much avoid anything newer than 1980 so my experience on that is thin. Ford worked themselves out of the tractor market through complexity and part issues.

I tend toward the older equipment. All the running gear tends to be bombproof and no electrical gremlins. :grinpimp:
 
10k is more than i want to spend because I also have to buy a camper or RV soon, and trying to pay cash for everything to minimize debt

sweet thank you for the info, it's way bigger than i need but that's rarely a bad thing
Unless you only have a garden to tractor in I highly doubt you’ll regret having a big tractor. My dad has a New Holland/Ford 6610 diesel tractor that I thought was bigger than he needed when he bought it. Man was I wrong, now that he has it I don’t know how we lived without one.
 
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I've hit some, but I've seen some EXPERIENCED farmers take out shit with the stupid fucking bucket.
I have to mow out a bunch of old corrals to keep the weeds low and bugs to a minimum. I can vouch for the old "oh I can get closer than that" attitude that lead to whacking shit with a mow deck or getting a tire stuck in a fence. :shaking:
 
Unless you only have a garden to tractor in I highly doubt you’ll regret having a big tractor. My dad has a New Holland/Ford 6600 diesel tractor that I thought was bigger than he needed when he bought it. Man was I wrong, now that he has it I don’t know how we lived without one.
this.


once you get above 35-40hp the price gets cheaper per hp since Johnny Homeowner can't pull it as easy behind his Expedition with the 16' utility trailer.
 
If you end up going 2wd with loader a work around might be to build a quick hitch weight box.

We used some scrap I beam to add weight to a box blade on my FILs 65hp 4wd Kubota.
If you build the weight box or box blade right you can put it off and on with out even getting off the tractor.
 
If you end up going 2wd with loader a work around might be to build a quick hitch weight box.

We used some scrap I beam to add weight to a box blade on my FILs 65hp 4wd Kubota.
If you build the weight box or box blade right you can put it off and on with out even getting off the tractor.
Depends what you are doing. Loader work, yes a ballast load on the back will help get weight off the front wheels and be easier on the steering gear. Build a gin pole on the back or pulling, you will want weights on the front to avoid wheeling and improve rear tire traction.
 
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Back when I was looking at tractors I ran into the same problems, worn out shit for too much money. It doesn't take much of a problem to make a $7000 tractor worth about $213 in scrap or cost you $5000 to fix it. I ended up buying a brand new Kubota L3200 about 9 years ago. I didn't want to go into debt either, but 0 down 0% interest and I went the whole 5 years of making payments and NEVER REGRETTED MY DESCICION !!!!!!!!! It always starts, everything works, every part is available(if I need one, which I haven't) and did I mention it always works? I didn't want another project, I have plenty of those. Old tractors are always projects. After I bought the new tractor, I bought several 8N/9N tractors that came with implements, then sold the tractors and kept the implements for free. The same month I payed off my Tractor I went back to the Kubota dealer and bought a brand new Mini Excavator, same 0 down 0% interest. I don't regret that one either and both machines are worth more now than when I bought them.
 
Back when I was looking at tractors I ran into the same problems, worn out shit for too much money. It doesn't take much of a problem to make a $7000 tractor worth about $213 in scrap or cost you $5000 to fix it. I ended up buying a brand new Kubota L3200 about 9 years ago. I didn't want to go into debt either, but 0 down 0% interest and I went the whole 5 years of making payments and NEVER REGRETTED MY DESCICION !!!!!!!!! It always starts, everything works, every part is available(if I need one, which I haven't) and did I mention it always works? I didn't want another project, I have plenty of those. Old tractors are always projects. After I bought the new tractor, I bought several 8N/9N tractors that came with implements, then sold the tractors and kept the implements for free. The same month I payed off my Tractor I went back to the Kubota dealer and bought a brand new Mini Excavator, same 0 down 0% interest. I don't regret that one either and both machines are worth more now than when I bought them.
:shaking:

This kinda shit only makes sense if you're a rich old man who's house is long paid off, shop is already built, doesn't really need to get anything done and just wants a toy.

Those 10yr of payments could have built a nice shop or something.
 
i have an 80s international 884, when i bought it, it had not been run in years. but these old diesels have no problem with that. hell i have fired up 2 1/2 tons that have been set up for over ten years in less than a half an hour.
 
I think the "imported" Fords you are referring to are not of the size requirements that OP is looking for.
FYI you can find more parts available internationally if you search for Shibaru and can figure out the corresponding model.


They were all over the map. Don't forget that they were building tractors in europe since forever as well.
ManufacturerFord
Utility tractor
FactoriesHighland Park, Michigan, USA
Basildon, England
Antwerp, Belgium
Original price was $6,300 in 1975
The Ford 3000 would have an A (Belgium), B (England), or C (United States) prefix to the serial number depending on where it was built.

and they imported some bigger jap ones too.

Distributor:Ford
Manufacturer:Shibaura
Type:Compact Utility tractor
Factory:Japan
Original price:$17,900 (2000 )

Ford 3415 Power
Engine:44 hp
32.8 kW

and sometimes it's the same model number, but a diesel one's built in england and the gas one's built in michigan.


 
:shaking:

This kinda shit only makes sense if you're a rich old man who's house is long paid off, shop is already built, doesn't really need to get anything done and just wants a toy.

Those 10yr of payments could have built a nice shop or something.
For fun I was looking around and was instantly shut down cause 40-60k each. :barf:
 
For what you are doing, as long as you can load it on a trailer and haul it, the heavier the better since 4wd is out of your budget. You should be able to get one with a bucket though and I would recommend that. You may have to work slow, but slow work with a tractor is still faster than fast work manually. Learn to use the mass to work for you. Get it moving and short loss of traction is overcome with inertia. diff lock is mandatory on 2wd tractors, get familiar with predicting traction and loss and preemptively engaging. While brush hogs look and sound terrifying, the reality is they are more dangerous than that. Respect them greatly. My grandpa had 2wd tractors on our ozarks farm the whole time I knew him. We have moved to 4wd now that he's been gone. We still have a couple or three of his old Fords though still kicking along. They are slower and the people who didn't grow up with 2wd struggle more than they do on the 4wd machines, but my mom and I can get on them and do just fine. The exception is wet grass on a slope with no bucket. Not a fucking thing a 2wd tractor can do besides spin out going up or slide/get pushed going down.
 
thanks for all the info everyone. too many replies to multi quote, but it's not a big piece of land, just under 7.5 acres, mostly wooded but not thick woods, plenty of room between trees to maneuver and really do not need 4wd for this place. there's a swampy area on the back side that i won't need to get through, not with a tractor anyway.

most i'll need to lift with a gin pole is a truck axle or some section of log or some shit like that, idk. not much gin pole use forseen outside of moving heavy truck parts or lifting a bed off a truck

front end loader could be useful but could also just get in my way as noted above. will certainly put it to use if i can find one in my price range

no plans to take down any of the large trees or do any clearing like that. all the space between the trees can be knocked down with a bush hog

will want to do some grading with a box blade on the already-cleared area, eventually borrowing my dad's disc to till up a garden spot, and then routinely keeping the grass kinda short. I have a riding mower for cutting the immediate area around the barn, camper, and eventual house

i know buying new is an option and you can get a fine machine that way, but i don't want to spend more money than needed. just an old tractor will suit me fine. I just closed on this piece of property last week and need to buy an RV or camper soon to live in. I can borrow tractor implements from my dad as needed until I can find my own to buy, if the tractor i find doesn't come with any

Dad has an old farmall sitting in his shop collecting dust but it doesn't have a lift on it so not really worth trying to get running to use
 
I have trucks and a 10k trailer so i'll be able to haul a decently thick girl home once i find it, don't need anything super heavyweight
 
:shaking:

This kinda shit only makes sense if you're a rich old man who's house is long paid off, shop is already built, doesn't really need to get anything done and just wants a toy.

Those 10yr of payments could have built a nice shop or something.
Hey I resemble that remark, except the rich part :laughing: behold a $50k engine plucker :lmao:

20221119_155643.jpg
 
They were all over the map. Don't forget that they were building tractors in europe since forever as well.


and they imported some bigger jap ones too.



and sometimes it's the same model number, but a diesel one's built in england and the gas one's built in michigan.


3415 is not a "common" tractor anywhere in NA. Not only were they built in Europe, all the design post-1965 came from Ford Tractor Operations in Basildon, regardless of where the parts were made and assembled. The reason why all the gas tractors were built here in that era is no one else in the world wanted one:laughing:

Regardless of where built, the 2-3-4-5-7 tractors were what are considered the "global tractor" (1965-newer). There are slight variations, but none that matter for 99% of the options for sale out there in OP's price point.

Again, I was responding to what OP was looking for, not some unicorn tractors that may be out there. You will find import versions of Deere (2040 series) and IH (anything that starts with a B) are equally as hard to get parts for, but equally rare.

lagunaMS :

For what you are looking to do at that price point look at 3400-4400-5400 Ford tractors. Those are the Industrial versions (in fact, look for any Fords from 65-80 model years). You can find versions with a 3 point and PTO, all have the heavy front axle and most have a heavy front end loader with a ton or so of ballast on the factory wheels. They always run cheaper than the ag tractors of the same era. With an electronic ignitions the gas versions start/run fine, but if you have to fuck with the distributor it sucks. The diesel is better in every way and they start good too. Don't confuse these with a backhoe, they are a genuine tractor with a heavier front axle, heavier rear castings, and are built to do the kind of work you're doing in a small package.
Something like the link below, though I see that someone either ordered it without the rear weight or took it off at some time. 1978 FORD 4400 For Sale in Thorntown, Indiana

This tractor below is exactly like the tractor one of my customers has used to clear about 10 acres of overgrown city lots in a small unincorporated town. Since we put an electronic ignition on it it hasn't failed him even though he lets it set outside about 6 months out of the year and only uses it sporadically, but hard when he does use it. Further than you want to go though.

1969 FORD 3400 Auction Results in Parkersburg, Iowa

If you are considering an ag tractor, get a 4000/5000 or its variants. DO NOT GET A 4000SU. They have the lighter front axle like the 2/3000 series. You can put a loader on them, but if you use it hard you will have front axle trouble. We've replaced dozens of snapped axles over the years on the 3000/4000su 's and there variants.

If you want a Deere or IH (and why would you because Ford figured out the pattern for a utility tractor decades ago:laughing:) a 3020 Deere would be a good option, front axle is still a little light though.
An International with a number that ends in -44 would be a good option as well. Something like a 744. Not common in these parts, more common in the south.
Case tractors in the price point you are looking at in the era you can get what you want will most likely be David Brown tractors. CNH is okay for getting parts, but some of them will make you squeal when they tell you the price. Something like a Case 880 or 990

I'm less familiar with the non-Fords but don't shy from the industrial variants of any of them. Usually the same tractor where it counts (the parts you'll commonly replace) and stronger where they are different. They are typically a little harder to access everything, especially when equipped with the factory loader (industrial tractors rarely have quick-tach loaders:laughing:). The collectors don't typically want them until they are 50+ years old.
 
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