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Help me buy a cheap tow rig

No. I assume cat to straight pipe would be a negligible change if any. I'm just shitting on you for the "hurr durr it likes them there back pressure" comment. :flipoff2:

Dick. :flipoff2:

If I say something dumb, I'll own it though. My limited experience with this is that stock V8's don't seem to benefit from ditching the cat and leaving everything else the same. It might add better flow in the higher revs but the low to mid rev torque seems to suffer, be it from loss of scavenging or back pressure or whatever. I'm not an engine tuner.

But this is a Ford V10, I'm already going to be welding on the Y-pipe for the SPD kit, and it's no additional work either way. I'm 50/50 between trying it out without a cat.
 
Why is insurance so much?

I have a 91 F800 and it's ~$60/month for insurance.

I have no exact idea except that in my state it would be registered as a "Commercial Vehicle" even if it's for personal use, and even though I don't need a CDL for personal use. If I could have found something with additional cab/box space to register as an RV it would drop the rates back to normal. Washington is kind of shitty and strict for vehicle registration.

I checked this with a few insurers and it was consistent across all of them.
 
I have no exact idea except that in my state it would be registered as a "Commercial Vehicle" even if it's for personal use, and even though I don't need a CDL for personal use. If I could have found something with additional cab/box space to register as an RV it would drop the rates back to normal. Washington is kind of shitty and strict for vehicle registration.

I checked this with a few insurers and it was consistent across all of them.
Mine is personal use.

They did question why I'd need "such a big truck". I said it was something to haul around ATVs, etc. I may actually turn it into a log hauler. I bought an 80s GMC 7000 with a self loader. It's a gas job and pretty rusty, so may end up pulling the loader.
 
I don't think the cat will make any difference.

I'd put one on just because I don't like my shit to stink.

That's my main consideration too. My wife will also use the truck for nursery/feed store runs and if the exhaust stinks I won't hear the end of it. :lmao:
 
Sorry my wording wasn't exact enough for you. :flipoff2:

Do you have some evidence to back up that a 2V Ford V10 will produce more torque in the usable rev range without a cat, but with a stock intake and exhaust?

I am getting rid of the retarded Y-Pipe junction with a SPD kit though.

You're increasing flow with a y-pipe and you think a HIGH FLOW cat makes a noticeable difference in performance via back pressure? :homer:

Let me know where along the RPM the dyno found those 3 extra horsetorques. :flipoff2:
 
That's my main consideration too. My wife will also use the truck for nursery/feed store runs and if the exhaust stinks I won't hear the end of it. :lmao:
My girlfriend doesn't complain about the difference between the Subarus that still have cats and the ones that don't and she has a really good nose so...
 
You're increasing flow with a y-pipe and you think a HIGH FLOW cat makes a noticeable difference in performance via back pressure? :homer:

Let me know where along the RPM the dyno found those 3 extra horsetorques. :flipoff2:

The Y-pipe is flat out retarded on these engines, so it's an established improvement to change that out even if that's the only mod to be done.

 
The Y-pipe is flat out retarded on these engines, so it's an established improvement to change that out even if that's the only mod to be done.
Best thing I ever did to my 02 v10, the SPD Y-pipe and Gibson headers as I was already pulling the logs for bunch of broken studs.

It had a CAI from the PO.

I'd guess eleventy horsetorques from the butt dyno.
 
Late to the party, but who is that insurance quote through? I have a Progressive Non-Commercial Use Commercial Policy on my MDT that costs around $175/yr, IIRC. Perhaps that is an avenue to explore?
 
Late to the party, but who is that insurance quote through? I have a Progressive Non-Commercial Use Commercial Policy on my MDT that costs around $175/yr, IIRC. Perhaps that is an avenue to explore?
That reminds me, I asked my insurance agent the other day (Liberty Mutual agent here in NY) about a pickup with a flatbed on it (posing the hypothetical of buying a pickup with a rusted out bed and putting a flatbed on it because that would be cheaper than buying a rust free bed) and he said that "There would not be a difference in the insurance cost based on bed design"

Aaron Z
 
:lmao:

I saw this listing earlier. Looks like a TOTALLY LEGIT situation. LOL

I bet it has a lien or isn't even owned by the seller or something. That's a $10-12k truck even how it sits.
Not sure how WA is, but in MO the owner can file for a "lost title". Cost like $10. If WA has something similar then the guy is just lazy, stupid, or uninformed.
Not sure how the DMV girl is going to transfer ownership without a title being signed over to the new owner and submitted to the state...at least that is the process in MO.
I am surprised (well, not really) on the amount of people I see trying to sell vehicles with no title because it has a lien on it (they even tell you it has a lien on it). If there is a lien on it, it isn't theirs to sell, since they do not own it.

Glad to see you found you a truck. Looks like a good one for the money. The V10 should easily pull 7K. I did the Y pipe too on my 01 F350 4x4 CCLB dually. Not sure it made much, if any, difference, but it should have. It also has an aftermarket magnaflow cat and a flowmaster muffler with a tailpipe that exits behind the rear tires. Originally it had a loud ass muffler that dumped under the bed at the rear axle...that was very loud. I would make sure the exhaust exits out the side or back and not dump under the bed.
I have the 4.30 gears and automatic. Pretty much get 7MPG towing anything of any weight (8K+). With a small car trailer and small car I can sometimes get 8-9ish. It is used as a tow rig, so I don't really have any "empty" MPG numbers. But pulling a small car trailer (1800ish lbs) with 3 or 4 ATVs I have gotten close to 10 before. I don't drive it hard and keep it around 70MPH on the interstate.
I do have a 5 star tuner that I've had for a couple of years. Not really impressed with it. I can't tell any difference in power when running the tow tune...it basically just makes it hold a gear longer, which most of the time is not needed in my towing situations (heaviest I normally pull is 10-12K). I actually kinda like the economy mode tune, because it will let it shift up at lower RPMs (I hate the 4 speed auto when it downshifts into 3rd and doesn't want to kick back up into OD, even when I am not pulling the engine hard). I need to talk to them about tweaking the tow tune, to get something beneficial out of it.
 
Brief update that's not much of an update yet.

It doesn't help that it randomly snowed ~10" last week which is unheard of for April here. The valley got 2-3" but at 1200' I got all of it, and it stuck around all week. With the Taco taking up the open side of the shop and a bunch of shit on the other side this will be a driveway project.

I've been amassing parts and fluids to fix what needs to be fixed and give the truck a full baseline service. New used steering column, door handles and locks, Y-pipe kit, Magnaflow cat, fluids and filters. And then the usual little upgrades like LED bulbs and new shocks.

I snagged some 95% 265/75/16 Bridgestone ATs on OEM alloys for $400, so I threw them on. The truck gained 1/2" in height over the bald 235/85/16 Duratracs.

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The truck still needs a wash but at least the wheels look clean. :smokin:
 

That's a cool rig, I would have given it a look if it was closer.

I updated the first post since I bought something earlier this month. It's definitely crazy that $5k really doesn't buy much these days for a 4x4 tow rig unless it's old, clapped out, or has issues.

A solution is find something with issues that you can DIY. "Mechanic Special" means different things to different people...

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😁
 
Never really updated this thread...

After taking a break all winter from working on any trucks I dove back into the Ferd AKA Pooperdoodie AKA the Farm Truck to get it on the road, and I've been driving it for a few weeks. I kinda really like this dumb thing. It's definitely a nice beater and a solid 20-footer at best for looks. But the drivetrain feels solid and the interior is in surprisingly good shape for its age and wear. The truck spent its first 8-9 years as a farm or horse trailer truck in Eastern Oregon so there is a layer of dust in everything, and there was gravel stuck everywhere under the truck. It needs undercoat or frame paint badly. But it was cheap so whatever, I'll deal with that later.


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I posted a couple little updates and such in other threads but I'll consolidate here:
  • Swapped the steering column for an eBay "refurb" unit.
  • Adjusted the steering box.
  • DIY alignment.
  • KYB Monomax shocks, steering stabilizer.
  • Unfucked the alarm, trailer wiring, and other wiring bullshit.
  • Added some cool security wiring.
  • While troubleshooting the power door locks I realized that the truck had keyless entry, so I bought a couple of cheap fobs off Amazon and they work perfectly. But the door lock actuators were shit so I swapped those out too, and now the system works amazing.
  • Threw in two out of four of the leaves from a Rough Country levelling kit in the front. It brought the front up 1.5" or so and it looks great.
  • Picked up some almost new AT 32s on more OEM alloys. I want to run tall skinny 33s on this truck but it would really need better gearing than the 3.73s it has now.
  • High-flow cat and tubing to replace what was chopped out. And an SPD Y-Pipe mod since the Y-pipe flange was already chopped.
  • Random body adjustments and tweaks. This truck had some panels swapped in the past.
  • All LED bulbs.
  • Started swapping some light housings, then a couple more, then went whole hog and swapped them all.
  • Replaced the factory fogs with some surprisingly decent Cheeyina knockoff lights in the bumper, on a fancy angle steel mount.
  • Most recently, the vacuum hubs were being normal AKA shitty so I swapped them for Mile Marker hubs and deleted the vac lines.
  • A bunch of other little shit I came across and am forgetting.
  • N-Fab steps because the factory running boards were slippery as snot.

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The more I drove this, the more I needed a stereo that didn't sound like a cell phone speaker in the bottom of a trash can full of dirty diapers. I ordered a budget but decent headunit and speakers, and I have a powered 8" sub sitting around that I'll throw in. I might get to that this weekend.

Other than that, I'll continue working through replacing all the fluids and coolant hoses. Then just drive it.
 
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It's easy for me to spend your money but if you like the truck a 05+ axle swap to 4.10-4.30's would be a nice upgrade and you could then sell your axles. I know yours aren't going to bring the same money but should be a nice kick back. I also like the 05+ interior a bit better but that is up to personal preference, only negative I can see with the newer axles it the rims have to jump up to 17 but then new takeoffs are available in 17-18 all the time.
I have this bad habit of trying to find a donor truck with all the parts I want (like axles and interior) but a blown motor or trans etc then just part out or sell the leftovers.
 
It's easy for me to spend your money but if you like the truck a 05+ axle swap to 4.10-4.30's would be a nice upgrade and you could then sell your axles. I know yours aren't going to bring the same money but should be a nice kick back. I also like the 05+ interior a bit better but that is up to personal preference, only negative I can see with the newer axles it the rims have to jump up to 17 but then new takeoffs are available in 17-18 all the time.
I have this bad habit of trying to find a donor truck with all the parts I want (like axles and interior) but a blown motor or trans etc then just part out or sell the leftovers.

The 05+ axle idea is actually a great one, the only issue is that in the PNW it would be damn expensive. And then suspension would need to be to be addressed.

I'll keep an eye out to see what pops up.
 
Why did you need to change the steering column? That's a new one to me.
 
The 05+ axle idea is actually a great one, the only issue is that in the PNW it would be damn expensive. And then suspension would need to be to be addressed.

I'll keep an eye out to see what pops up.

Start keeping an eye in the boneyard of all the logging outfits. Can probly grab a blown up or totaled pickup for a half way decent price

I know where my old crummy is. Sitting out behind a shop with a cooked motor. Guy could probly get the thing for $1000-$1500. Pull the suspention, sell a few parts an scrap it.

Least thats my plan
 
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Why did you need to change the steering column? That's a new one to me.

Not sure if I mentioned the details earlier, but the truck had been broken into and the ignition drilled out. So the column was fuckered enough that swapping it was the easiest option.
 
Makes sense.

My ferd is at the point where it needs window runs. Somehow the rear ones are shrinking and not touching the top of the door frame anymore. The window runs are a whole assembly, which sucks.

Not sure why I felt the need to share that, lol. Something to look out for I guess. Love me some super duty threads. Keep it up.
 
seems like a heck of a deal given the work.

I believe that's one of the members here trucks. He started a build thread on it a long time ago but it never went anywhere.


Reading through an old thread and something catches my attention.. just the first line in the dead craiglist link and I knew that was the listing for my OBS.

I suppose I should probably go through and give the people what they want and finish out the build thread. Although maybe I'll combine it with my new truck that's going to get the same treatment coming up soon. This one is a '97 Cali model F250 with low miles.

I sold the dually for $20k. He definitely got a deal on that truck, I never added it all up, but I know I had closer to $30k into it. There was almost nothing on that truck I hadn't put my hands on.



Anyways, derail over. Looks like you have a pretty decent tow rig going Yotota , especially for money into it given the current truck market.:smokin:
 
Reading through an old thread and something catches my attention.. just the first line in the dead craiglist link and I knew that was the listing for my OBS.

I suppose I should probably go through and give the people what they want and finish out the build thread. Although maybe I'll combine it with my new truck that's going to get the same treatment coming up soon. This one is a '97 Cali model F250 with low miles.

I sold the dually for $20k. He definitely got a deal on that truck, I never added it all up, but I know I had closer to $30k into it. There was almost nothing on that truck I hadn't put my hands on.



Anyways, derail over. Looks like you have a pretty decent tow rig going Yotota , especially for money into it given the current truck market.:smokin:

Some dudes get pissed over derails, but that's what I like about forums. More like a natural conversation.

And thanks. The truck market in the PNW is still full-bore retarded so any deals are hard to come by. And any older truck is going to need some refreshing anyway. This one turned out great for what it is and what I need it for.
 
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