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Help me buy a cheap tow rig

DMG said:
The V10 will pull 7k very well. The 5.4 will just be slow.
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Either will do the job, but they NEED lower gears.

Anything less than 4.10 is dismal. 4.30+ minimum. The mod motor wants to sing, let it. You're getting shit mileage regardless.

Picking up a v10 excursion for the old man sunday. I'll gear the pig down and he'll get 11mpg everywhere it goes, loaded or not.
 
TRINDU said:
Either will do the job, but they NEED lower gears.

Anything less than 4.10 is dismal. 4.30+ minimum. The mod motor wants to sing, let it. You're getting shit mileage regardless.

Picking up a v10 excursion for the old man sunday. I'll gear the pig down and he'll get 11mpg everywhere it goes, loaded or not.
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Yep. They like to rev. On my 06 I set the cruise and turn up the radio, even in the mountains.

Most of them came with the 4.30s, fortunately until they got the 5r110 then 4.10s.
 
Yesterday was busy, but successful.

Dragged this SOB home for $4500. I didn't feel like driving it an hour home because... The cat was chopped out and straight downpipe V10s are loud.

2001 F250 XLT V10 4X4, 165k mi, needs a cat and a steering column along with some other odds and ends that are cheap because it's a Ford. And some new used tires. It's the most truck I could possibly find for $4500 in the PNW and once I throw $1k and some elbow grease into it I'll have a $8-9k truck on my hands.

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And I'd like to add a shout-out to my friend's POS trailer for being a POS. :flipoff2:

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Looks pretty solid as far as rust goes so that's an instant win there. Speaking of rust and the 1K of work your going to put in it might not be a bad idea to coat the bottom of it with your favorite undercoating while its on stands with tires out of the way.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Looks pretty solid as far as rust goes so that's an instant win there. Speaking of rust and the 1K of work your going to put in it might not be a bad idea to coat the bottom of it with your favorite undercoating while its on stands with tires out of the way.
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For sure. In the PNW we don't have a terrible rust issue, but this rig is showing its age with some cosmetic surface rust and I do plan to undercoat it to prevent future rot.

I realistically won't put more than 2k miles per year on this so I definitely want it to last.
 
You did good!

Cats required in your county for emissions? If not even better

Was looking for that truck/deal a while ago and they just dont exist down here.
 
mjlogan88 said:
You did good!

Cats required in your county for emissions? If not even better

Was looking for that truck/deal a while ago and they just dont exist down here.
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No emissions testing or inspections for me, and even better is that on these early V10s there is no post-cat O2 sensor so the ECU doesn't care what happens after the downpipes.

BUT... These engines need some decent back pressure in order to run happily and produce decent torque. I'm still shopping a bit but I'm currently planning to buzz in a 3" universal cat in order to keep it torquey and not stinky. Maybe.

I need to do some exhaust work anyway as it appears to have had a different cat buzzed in previously. And while I'm at it I'll do the Y-pipe mod from SPD.

There should be a bolted flange at the end of the Y-Pipe, and then the factory cat, and then a straight intermediate pipe into the muff.

(Ignore the muffler on the ground, it was in the bed of the truck but it's not from this truck. :lmao:)

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Mikel said:
Regular applications of Fluidfilm is much better than traditional undercoating.
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I've heard of it, I need to look into it. Would I need to clean off the old layers of paint/ undercoat/ dirt/ surface rust that's on there now?

Mainly the axles and the outside of the frame rails. This is "light rust" for the PNW and would probably be called "rust free" for the rest of y'all. 😁
 
Yotota said:
I've heard of it, I need to look into it. Would I need to clean off the old layers of paint/ undercoat/ dirt/ surface rust that's on there now?

Mainly the axles and the outside of the frame rails. This is "light rust" for the PNW and would probably be called "rust free" for the rest of y'all. 😁
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Painting/undercoating need a perfectly clean surface, and when that bond breaks, moisture gets in between the metal and the paint/coating, and causes rust.

Fluidfilm is the equivalent of the dandelion. It doesn't care where you apply it. It also creeps into joints, something paint does not do. I'm a big fan.
 
Mikel said:
Painting/undercoating need a perfectly clean surface, and when that bond breaks, moisture gets in between the metal and the paint/coating, and causes rust.

Fluidfilm is the equivalent of the dandelion. It doesn't care where you apply it. It also creeps into joints, something paint does not do. I'm a big fan.
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I'm all about the least effort possible on this truck. Fluidfilm sounds like it fits nicely with that theme. :smokin:
 
Yotota said:
I'm all about the least effort possible on this truck
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Hit an exhaust shop and dumpster dive for a brand new muffler off a truck someone drove straight from the lot to get a flowmaster put on.

I'd start there and worry about a cat later if the backpressure myth holds true for you
 
If you plan to keep it and really like it, gear it. Idk what the stock gears are on that truck, but if it's 3.73, id skip right over 4.30 and go 4.56(285's) or 4.88(running 35"+ tires)
 
Yotota said:
:lmao:

These engines are tuned strangely in stock form. They definitely need the exhaust to be set up a certain way to run happily... I'm still figuring it all out.
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No engine likes back-pressure.

But I can see a V10 with a pair of log manifolds potentially benefiting from an OEM Y-pipe that was tuned for that specific engine with that specific exhaust on it and then mouth breathers saying "hurr durr it must like back pressure" when the dual 3s into a single 4 system that they made winds up performing worse.
 
PB blaster came out with their version of fluid film called surface shield and I've seen couple guys on the old youtube say it works well. I'm going to try it next winter and see how it goes.

On the exhaust thing I would just jam a pipe in there to bridge gap to OE muffler and call it good unless the muffler\tailpipe are also in bad shape, then it gets 3' pipe el cheapo hush thrush 3" muffler and turn out\down to kick out by rear tire.
 
TRINDU said:
That 6.7L F350 is dragging ass :eek:
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It was in a dip and the angle was a bit wonky, it sat a little better on flat ground. But it has levelling spacers up front and stock rear too.
 
350TacoZilla said:
PB blaster came out with their version of fluid film called surface shield and I've seen couple guys on the old youtube say it works well. I'm going to try it next winter and see how it goes.

On the exhaust thing I would just jam a pipe in there to bridge gap to OE muffler and call it good unless the muffler\tailpipe are also in bad shape, then it gets 3' pipe el cheapo hush thrush 3" muffler and turn out\down to kick out by rear tire.
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If it smells like PB I'll pass
 
Yotota said:
I've heard of it, I need to look into it. Would I need to clean off the old layers of paint/ undercoat/ dirt/ surface rust that's on there now?

Mainly the axles and the outside of the frame rails. This is "light rust" for the PNW and would probably be called "rust free" for the rest of y'all. 😁
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lived here long? dont a damn thing, aint ever going to rust out here. maybe a good cleaning and cheap spray paint if it cam from some where else int he country. i have rigs with exposed sheet metal for 10+yrs that still only barely have surface rust. and live most their life within 500yds of the salt water.
 
arse_sidewards said:
No engine likes back-pressure.

But I can see a V10 with a pair of log manifolds potentially benefiting from an OEM Y-pipe that was tuned for that specific engine with that specific exhaust on it and then mouth breathers saying "hurr durr it must like back pressure" when the dual 3s into a single 4 system that they made winds up performing worse.
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Sorry my wording wasn't exact enough for you. :flipoff2:

Do you have some evidence to back up that a 2V Ford V10 will produce more torque in the usable rev range without a cat, but with a stock intake and exhaust?

I am getting rid of the retarded Y-Pipe junction with a SPD kit though.
 
Why is insurance so much?

I have a 91 F800 and it's ~$60/month for insurance.
 
Yotota said:
Sorry my wording wasn't exact enough for you. :flipoff2:

Do you have some evidence to back up that a 2V Ford V10 will produce more torque in the usable rev range without a cat, but with a stock intake and exhaust?

I am getting rid of the retarded Y-Pipe junction with a SPD kit though.
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No. I assume cat to straight pipe would be a negligible change if any. I'm just shitting on you for the "hurr durr it likes them there back pressure" comment. :flipoff2:
 
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