Muckin_Slusher
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I'll measure it tomorrow.Is your cab wider in the back vs where the vents are in front of the doors? Mine flares out about 6" at the rear corners and I can't tell if the PO did it for looks or thats how it's supposed to be.
I'll measure it tomorrow.Is your cab wider in the back vs where the vents are in front of the doors? Mine flares out about 6" at the rear corners and I can't tell if the PO did it for looks or thats how it's supposed to be.
Sorry, I got busy with life.Is your cab wider in the back vs where the vents are in front of the doors? Mine flares out about 6" at the rear corners and I can't tell if the PO did it for looks or thats how it's supposed to be.
I had some bolts to mount the air filter, but then I found this black piece. Seems it's used to cap the outside air intake, and instead draw air in from underhood (possibly for cold weather...?).
It spaces the filter 1/2 inch from the fender and caps off the louvers.
Thanks man. Kinda feel like making it go straight backSorry, I got busy with life.
Cab is wider at the rear than the front. I measured 70.5 at the rear door opening and 65.5 inches width where the door hinges bolt on. (Both these measurements are to the outside of the body).
If you need anything more specific, just ask.
Technically the factory setup is exactly this. The Unimog 404 dropping resistor drops 24v to around 12v to run the ignition coil and points, as they would burn up at 24 (28v charging).Why not run 12v ignition and 24v starter? There's gotta be a doohickey to do that
This is how factory 404 2-door bodies are set up. The widest point of the cab is just behind the front doors where it meets the rear wall.Is your cab wider in the back vs where the vents are in front of the doors? Mine flares out about 6" at the rear corners and I can't tell if the PO did it for looks or thats how it's supposed to be.
Why not run 12v ignition and 24v starter? There's gotta be a doohickey to do that
My boy (now 12) has been helping me every day I'm off to finish this thing. I cannot believe his patience. Progress is slow, but it's awesome seeing him learn and enjoying it.
Teak first. White oak second
The oil switch still serves it's purpose. It is only bypassed while the starter button is pressed. Once you stop cranking it's the oil switch that's feeding the ignition. If the oil pressure drops (either because oil problem, or because engine stalled) the ignition will stop, preventing the coil from burning out.Why is the original a problem? Oil pressure builds almost immediately. It is a safety in case your oil pressure goes away for some reason. If you really want it, I think the button idea would work fine. Maybe even a switch in case your pressure switch fails. That way, if you know you got pressure (gauge) and it only runs with the switch on, you could leave it on till you get back to the house.
I agree with all that. But there is another possibility. As I understand it, oil is not just lubricant. It is actually a hydraulic layer between the crank and rod bearing. When the cylinder fires, the rod really hits the crank hard if there’s no pressure.The oil switch still serves it's purpose. It is only bypassed while the starter button is pressed. Once you stop cranking it's the oil switch that's feeding the ignition. If the oil pressure drops (either because oil problem, or because engine stalled) the ignition will stop, preventing the coil from burning out.
The reason for the modification is to get spark quicker when starting up. Waiting for oil pressure means the starter has to crank for 5-10 seconds even though the engine would have started in 2 seconds. Once the engine does start, oil pressure is built that much quicker.
It starts much better now, and is much less wear on the starter.