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Half-Burnt Swiss 404.

Is your cab wider in the back vs where the vents are in front of the doors? Mine flares out about 6" at the rear corners and I can't tell if the PO did it for looks or thats how it's supposed to be.
I'll measure it tomorrow.
 
Is your cab wider in the back vs where the vents are in front of the doors? Mine flares out about 6" at the rear corners and I can't tell if the PO did it for looks or thats how it's supposed to be.
Sorry, I got busy with life.

Cab is wider at the rear than the front. I measured 70.5 at the rear door opening and 65.5 inches width where the door hinges bolt on. (Both these measurements are to the outside of the body).

If you need anything more specific, just ask.
 
I had some bolts to mount the air filter, but then I found this black piece. Seems it's used to cap the outside air intake, and instead draw air in from underhood (possibly for cold weather...?).

It spaces the filter 1/2 inch from the fender and caps off the louvers.

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Didn't see this earlier...

Run it flat against the fender to block off airflow like you said.

Or flip it with the standoff spacers against the fender to allow airflow but maybe help keep water from splashing in.
 
Sorry, I got busy with life.

Cab is wider at the rear than the front. I measured 70.5 at the rear door opening and 65.5 inches width where the door hinges bolt on. (Both these measurements are to the outside of the body).

If you need anything more specific, just ask.
Thanks man. Kinda feel like making it go straight back
 
Why not run 12v ignition and 24v starter? There's gotta be a doohickey to do that
Technically the factory setup is exactly this. The Unimog 404 dropping resistor drops 24v to around 12v to run the ignition coil and points, as they would burn up at 24 (28v charging).
 
Is your cab wider in the back vs where the vents are in front of the doors? Mine flares out about 6" at the rear corners and I can't tell if the PO did it for looks or thats how it's supposed to be.
This is how factory 404 2-door bodies are set up. The widest point of the cab is just behind the front doors where it meets the rear wall.
 
My boy (now 12) has been helping me every day I'm off to finish this thing. I cannot believe his patience. Progress is slow, but it's awesome seeing him learn and enjoying it.

Goal right now is to get it safetied.

Wiring is complete, for now. I love the fabric harness tape, hope it holds up long term without getting gooey.

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Seat and floor installed.

Final gauge/switch layout.

Left to right on dash.

Hood pull, head lights, driver wiper, ignition, start.

Left to right on center console

SIgnals, pasenger wiper, choke, winch.

I figured those should be operable by driver and passenger.

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I've had it out around the block a few times.

Still struggling to adjust carb, and timing but it runs. :bounce:

Dug out the rear benches to prep for stripping and new wood.
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Any suggestions on what kind of wood I should use to replace the benches?

The original measured 1 inch thick, 7 inches wide and 94 3/4 inches long.

I don't want to thickness plane hardware store wood down to 1 inch, but I can sawmill some.

Assuming the originals were hardwood?

I've got poplar, white birch, tamarack, jackpine, white spruce and black spruce growing around here.
 
Firewall resistor from most 1980's cucv's would provide that function.

This is what it looks like installed against the engine side of the firewall.

With this installed the only item that was 24v was the starter and this was so the 2.5 and 5 ton trucks were compatible with the cucv to jump start either, hence why the cucv used such heavy batteries.



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Why not run 12v ignition and 24v starter? There's gotta be a doohickey to do that
 
My boy (now 12) has been helping me every day I'm off to finish this thing. I cannot believe his patience. Progress is slow, but it's awesome seeing him learn and enjoying it.

You are doing your son a giant favor. Best memories of my dad was working on vehicles. (And my dad was probably not as nice as you)

Teak first. White oak second :flipoff2:

I don’t know nothing about White Oak, but yes on the Teak.
 
So, it's been so long since I wired the ignition, I had to trace it out and make a print:

It's about as basic as you can get. I didn't want the coil or ballast resistor to burn out because left on with engine not running, so I fed the coil through an oil pressure switch. I also installed a relay to bypass the ballast resistor and give full volts to compensate any drop while cranking.

I think it's as simple as possible without using a double pole start button.

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Trouble is that you don't get any spark while cranking until the oil pressure builds. Plan always was to install a second "oil switch bypass" button. You'd press it while cranking to give spark until the oil pressure builds.

It's added complication and I don't want to add a second switch. I stared at the diagram for a long time trying to find a way to bypass the switch without a relay (or without a multi pole switch).

This is what I've come up with, and will install unless someone has better idea.



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Stared at it some more and came up with this:

This should satisfy all my needs, and doesn't require a second relay.

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Why is the original a problem? Oil pressure builds almost immediately. It is a safety in case your oil pressure goes away for some reason. If you really want it, I think the button idea would work fine. Maybe even a switch in case your pressure switch fails. That way, if you know you got pressure (gauge) and it only runs with the switch on, you could leave it on till you get back to the house.
 
Why is the original a problem? Oil pressure builds almost immediately. It is a safety in case your oil pressure goes away for some reason. If you really want it, I think the button idea would work fine. Maybe even a switch in case your pressure switch fails. That way, if you know you got pressure (gauge) and it only runs with the switch on, you could leave it on till you get back to the house.
The oil switch still serves it's purpose. It is only bypassed while the starter button is pressed. Once you stop cranking it's the oil switch that's feeding the ignition. If the oil pressure drops (either because oil problem, or because engine stalled) the ignition will stop, preventing the coil from burning out.

The reason for the modification is to get spark quicker when starting up. Waiting for oil pressure means the starter has to crank for 5-10 seconds even though the engine would have started in 2 seconds. Once the engine does start, oil pressure is built that much quicker.

It starts much better now, and is much less wear on the starter.
 
The oil switch still serves it's purpose. It is only bypassed while the starter button is pressed. Once you stop cranking it's the oil switch that's feeding the ignition. If the oil pressure drops (either because oil problem, or because engine stalled) the ignition will stop, preventing the coil from burning out.

The reason for the modification is to get spark quicker when starting up. Waiting for oil pressure means the starter has to crank for 5-10 seconds even though the engine would have started in 2 seconds. Once the engine does start, oil pressure is built that much quicker.

It starts much better now, and is much less wear on the starter.
I agree with all that. But there is another possibility. As I understand it, oil is not just lubricant. It is actually a hydraulic layer between the crank and rod bearing. When the cylinder fires, the rod really hits the crank hard if there’s no pressure.
 
Milled some LVL beam into benches, couldn't be happier with the results. 1 inch thick and there's no need for a stiffener board at the leading edge. Friend had some left over stain so it got that instead of olive drab.

You can see how much angle the bench has, and the butt hugging curve between the two boards. The legs fit into keyhole slots in the floor and it's near impossible to kick them out.

I haven't got pulled over by LEO yet, even with the windshield down. It's not legal to ride in box of pickup trucks so I'm expecting to get pulled over when I have people back there.

Shouldn't be much drama though as they're factory seats.

At some point I'm going to have to replace the floorboards too.

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