Fuel Cell Tech

[SLOWPOKE693]

Ok so I am building myself a custom can for my prerunner truck AND getting a bladder made for it. Now I am going to run dual Walbro 255 LPH fuel pumps in tank. Now where should I look for a top plate for that and would be awesome if it had wiring provisions to hookup on outside to switch and inside to the pumps.

Thanks

ATL and Fuel Safe will have what you are looking for. I usually get part #'s from their site and then Google them to see how much I can save buying from one of their online dealers.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Aeromotive also makes drop in fuel sending units if you are not set on the Walbro pumps.

 

[mobil1syn]

if youre getting a bladder made just have them include a blank steel plate. drill some holes and hand the pumps off a tube.

 

[gt1guy]

Ok so I am building myself a custom can for my prerunner truck AND getting a bladder made for it. Now I am going to run dual Walbro 255 LPH fuel pumps in tank. Now where should I look for a top plate for that and would be awesome if it had wiring provisions to hookup on outside to switch and inside to the pumps.

Thanks

Who's making the bladder for you? Get the the top plate from whomever makes the bladder, just to make sure the bolt patterns are the same.

 

[TTMotorsports]

I'll call Harmon tomorrow and get one from them.

 

[blakes]

I've had a used Jazz 34 gallon plastic cell in my rig for 15 years. It's full of factory foam too.

No issues even with foam clogging up the filter.

 

[Boomtacoma01]

Bumping an old thread for a newb question.

I have a Jazz 8 gallon poly tank with 8AN bulkheads off the sump. I will be running a Walbro or E2000 pump since I have a few new ones laying around.

Is it better to orientate the sump towards the rear or towards the front? I though towards the rear would be better for going up inclines since they take a little more time, downhill not so much.

I assume it may not matter but just thought Id ask the question as I'm visualizing the layout of the fuel pump and and inline filters. I have not ruled out an in-tank option with some Walbro pick-ups or Hydramat.

 

[Xailking]

I’d avoid the bargain‑bin boat tanks. A proper 10 gallon fuel cell designed for automotive use will have baffling, AN fittings, and vent provisions. That makes plumbing cleaner and prevents fuel slosh issues. If you’ve got a good TIG welder friend, reinforcing a budget cell is possible, but starting with a purpose‑built unit saves headaches.

 

[Ghetto Fab.]

I called RCI direct.

Since this got brought back up, can you post up the dimensions of the actual fuel cell in this? Just the H, W, L of the can and not the flange around the top? Their dimensions online don't add up correctly and I can't make sense of how large these actually are.

 

[Wuaxiron]

I’d avoid the bargain‑bin boat tanks. A proper 10 gallon fuel cell designed for automotive use will have baffling, AN fittings, and vent provisions. That makes plumbing cleaner and prevents fuel slosh issues. If you’ve got a good TIG welder friend, reinforcing a budget cell is possible, but starting with a purpose‑built unit saves headaches.

Totally agree with that. I tried running a cheap tank before and the fuel slosh alone made it a headache, especially on turns and low fuel levels. A proper 10 gallon fuel cell with baffling really makes a difference in keeping fuel delivery consistent. Plus the AN fittings just make everything cleaner when plumbing it in.

 

[crazybluerider]

Since this got brought back up, can you post up the dimensions of the actual fuel cell in this? Just the H, W, L of the can and not the flange around the top? Their dimensions online don't add up correctly and I can't make sense of how large these actually are.

10"x14"x30" without the flange. flange is 1"

 

[Ghetto Fab.]

10"x14"x30" without the flange. flange is 1"

Thanks a ton! Just to be clear, the height is the 10" dimension?

 

[crazybluerider]

Thanks a ton! Just to be clear, the height is the 10" dimension?

height is 14"