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First Suppressor

Have you noticed any impact shift with that can (meaning cold bore shot 1" -2" high)? I may be looking for a new big bore can. Was leaning towards Thunder Beast, just don't personally know anyone running them.

All cans impact shift. It's a fact of life.

My problem is I have a few cans and dozens of rifles. Remembering which one was sighted with which requires a spreadsheet.

I now know why guys buy a can for every gun. :laughing::homer:
Mostly due to the cap carbon welded on.

Boretech C4. Drop it in and let it soak. Can't hurt it like CLR.

I picked up my mask today and 300 rounds in one of the caps already required the vise to hold the cap and both hands on the tube to break it free. 22s are dirty bitches.
 
All cans impact shift. It's a fact of life.

My problem is I have a few cans and dozens of rifles. Remembering which one was sighted with which requires a spreadsheet.

I now know why guys buy a can for every gun. :laughing::homer:


Boretech C4. Drop it in and let it soak. Can't hurt it like CLR.

I picked up my mask today and 300 rounds in one of the caps already required the vise to hold the cap and both hands on the tube to break it free. 22s are dirty bitches.
How bad is the “dip”? Obviously don’t get it on your skin or drink the shit.
 
Currently trying to figure out my first suppressor purchase. Use will be a few misc ARs, 5.56 SBR, 5.56 16" and .308 M5. Trying to stay around $800 with the stamp. My FFL was trying to steer me towards a dedicated 5.56 YHM can based on cost, but Id rather start with a .30 Can to allow use on all my rifles for now and branch out from there. One of my employees was pushing Omega 300s but he bought it his many years ago and wasn't aware of their current cost. Right now I'm leaning towards a Lahar-30. Anyone have feedback on a decent can in that price range?

Push your budget, buy once cry once.


YHM makes a solid product. The Lahar is so new there's not much info and I doubt anyone has one out of jail yet.


My first was a Sig SRD762 direct thread. It's middle of the road weight wise at 15oz. It's fairly quiet, and it's full auto rated. Inconel and stainless so pretty well impervious to anything.

I still use it for my match rifle and a 300bo AR. Those are the two I put the most rounds and heat out of.


I bought a few KG made cans that are titanium and weigh about 5oz less. They aren't full auto rated and don't get used on the blasting rifles. They work great for hunting and target shooting, but I don't want to find the limits putting it on a match rifle and getting it smoking 10 times a day.:laughing:


No matter what you'll end up with more. And you'll spend more time second time. It's worth the extra cost now to get what works with a solid brand to back them up. Resale is abismal since if you sell it the buyer has to pay a tax stamp again, so rarely do you find used ones. They just go unused and a waste of money sitting in the back of a safe.
 
How bad is the “dip”? Obviously don’t get it on your skin or drink the shit.

Haven't tried it because I can't find a hazmat disposal locally. It freaks me out as it turns the lead into a salt that your body readily absorbs.


My mask is soaking in boretech rimfire blend right now, we'll see how it looks tomorrow.
 
$30 for 16 ounces is a bit expensive. I am a Toyota guy after all. Hazmat disposal?
 

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Haven't tried it because I can't find a hazmat disposal locally. It freaks me out as it turns the lead into a salt that your body readily absorbs.
I'd bet there's something you can drop in the used juice that'll turn the lead back metallic

like how silver refining guys end up with a bunch of acidic copper salts that they can drop some iron into which turns the copper back into metal and makes an iron salt which doesn't have the same toxicity problems
 
Push your budget, buy once cry once.


YHM makes a solid product. The Lahar is so new there's not much info and I doubt anyone has one out of jail yet.


My first was a Sig SRD762 direct thread. It's middle of the road weight wise at 15oz. It's fairly quiet, and it's full auto rated. Inconel and stainless so pretty well impervious to anything.

I still use it for my match rifle and a 300bo AR. Those are the two I put the most rounds and heat out of.


I bought a few KG made cans that are titanium and weigh about 5oz less. They aren't full auto rated and don't get used on the blasting rifles. They work great for hunting and target shooting, but I don't want to find the limits putting it on a match rifle and getting it smoking 10 times a day.:laughing:


No matter what you'll end up with more. And you'll spend more time second time. It's worth the extra cost now to get what works with a solid brand to back them up. Resale is abismal since if you sell it the buyer has to pay a tax stamp again, so rarely do you find used ones. They just go unused and a waste of money sitting in the back of a safe.

I hope you have good luck with kg made. They were the ones making the shitty dead air cans that are failing every day
 
I'd bet there's something you can drop in the used juice that'll turn the lead back metallic

like how silver refining guys end up with a bunch of acidic copper salts that they can drop some iron into which turns the copper back into metal and makes an iron salt which doesn't have the same toxicity problems
Epsom Salt or Zinc will cause it to precipitate. But it still seems easier to just use CLR or a ultrasonic cleaner. and not deal with the Lead Acetate at all.

 
All cans impact shift. It's a fact of life.
They do but, this rifle specifically sends the 1st round 1-1.5" high then starts to group. Different than most of my rifles. I'm going to have it bedded this summer to see if that changes. Yes, it's consistent but, I want it more consistent. I have tried other cans with the same result.
 
They do but, this rifle specifically sends the 1st round 1-1.5" high then starts to group. Different than most of my rifles. I'm going to have it bedded this summer to see if that changes. Yes, it's consistent but, I want it more consistent. I have tried other cans with the same result.

On the same rifle?

Not all cans affect poi. But most will not effect groups other than to speed up the bullets and possibly tighten the group some
 
Yep, same rifle. It's the only one I've noticed it on. No velocity change between first round and following rounds.
 
Yep, same rifle. It's the only one I've noticed it on. No velocity change between first round and following rounds.

bed that rifle, have the crown cleaned up, check the thread shoulder if its square, unless you're using some other method than direct thread.

there's no reason that rifle should perform like that. other than the barrel whip is contacting the stock.
 
bed that rifle, have the crown cleaned up, check the thread shoulder if its square, unless you're using some other method than direct thread.

there's no reason that rifle should perform like that. other than the barrel whip is contacting the stock.
Does FRP cause issues like that due to the extra unbuffered turbulence? (dumb question, but just trying to piece together with the variables)
 
Does FRP cause issues like that due to the extra unbuffered turbulence? (dumb question, but just trying to piece together with the variables)

no. FRP is oxygen in the can "igniting".

ive also never heard of any centerfire can having an FRP. only a thing on rimfires.
 
no. FRP is oxygen in the can "igniting".

ive also never heard of any centerfire can having an FRP. only a thing on rimfires.
All cans got FRP from what I read? Can volume changes how noticeable it is. My 9mm can has a tiny first chamber so its not bad, but still there.
 
All cans got FRP from what I read? Can volume changes how noticeable it is. My 9mm can has a tiny first chamber so its not bad, but still there.

i guess it can.... pun.... but its not actually noticable. ive never heard one before on a centerfire can. maybe i just have good cans?

all rimfire can manufacturers use "no FRP" in their ads and descriptions. Centerfire cans? never. if it was a big deal, im sure they would try and use it in their marketing. its just not an issue.
 
I hope you have good luck with kg made. They were the ones making the shitty dead air cans that are failing every day

The Sierra 5s are failing, but they're made by 2 different OEMs. Both are having issues.

There's a ton of masks, nomads, nomad Lt, etc. out there with no issues. KG pushes out 25000 cans a month with many other brand names they won't discuss besides Dead Air.

The R30Ts passed FBI selection. Doubt I'll abuse them that hard.

They do but, this rifle specifically sends the 1st round 1-1.5" high then starts to group. Different than most of my rifles. I'm going to have it bedded this summer to see if that changes. Yes, it's consistent but, I want it more consistent. I have tried other cans with the same result.


That's odd. I'd either make sure it's full floated or pressure bedded depending on the stock.

Beyond that, I'd be putting a new barrel on. None of my "customs" have that issue, but I've seen it on an old Remington factory barrel.
 
Barrel is floated, action is not bedded unless its pillar bedded, and I don't remember. I've used 2 different cans that are considerably different in volume. Neither is direct thread.
I originally bought it for a coyote gun so accuracy past 100 yards isn't really necessary. But it is nice to carry deer hunting with a can with the short barrel.
Here are a couple of typical groups.
20231004_092623.jpg
20231004_093959.jpg
 
first after cleaning or first from dead cold or just the first round outta the mag even when warm
 
Barrel is floated, action is not bedded unless its pillar bedded, and I don't remember. I've used 2 different cans that are considerably different in volume. Neither is direct thread.
I originally bought it for a coyote gun so accuracy past 100 yards isn't really necessary. But it is nice to carry deer hunting with a can with the short barrel.
Here are a couple of typical groups.
20231004_092623.jpg
20231004_093959.jpg

Obviously, a bad hold...
 
Quite Possibly, the recoil is so much greeter with this 6CM than my .338 AX.:flipoff2:
 
Barrel is floated, action is not bedded unless its pillar bedded, and I don't remember. I've used 2 different cans that are considerably different in volume. Neither is direct thread.
I originally bought it for a coyote gun so accuracy past 100 yards isn't really necessary. But it is nice to carry deer hunting with a can with the short barrel.
Here are a couple of typical groups.
20231004_092623.jpg
20231004_093959.jpg

Something is fucky.
Have a chassis you can try it in?
 
The Sierra 5s are failing, but they're made by 2 different OEMs. Both are having issues.

There's a ton of masks, nomads, nomad Lt, etc. out there with no issues. KG pushes out 25000 cans a month with many other brand names they won't discuss besides Dead Air.

The R30Ts passed FBI selection. Doubt I'll abuse them that hard.




That's odd. I'd either make sure it's full floated or pressure bedded depending on the stock.

Beyond that, I'd be putting a new barrel on. None of my "customs" have that issue, but I've seen it on an old Remington factory barrel.

I don't think you've been paying attention. The masks are showing failures, sandman, and Ghosts. It's not limited to the Sierras. But the Sierras with problems have been linked directly to kgm.
 
Quite Possibly, the recoil is so much greeter with this 6CM than my .338 AX.:flipoff2:

Let's try something easy and work our way to hard. What scope are you using? got another scope and rings to try?
 
I don't think you've been paying attention. The masks are showing failures, sandman, and Ghosts. It's not limited to the Sierras. But the Sierras with problems have been linked directly to kgm.

Only ones I've seen are all Sierra 5s, and half of them weren't kgm manufactured. They were all visibly defective before they blew up.


But a bunch of people are bitching in the forums, with no pictures of anything. :laughing:

I'm sure I'd never think to take a picture of a blown up can before I sent it off :lmao:



I also take anything to do with end caps or mounts with a high degree off skepticism. I once witnessed a guy screw his SIG muzzle device on backwards, and bend the locking tab up with a screwdriver to try and thread the QD can on. :eek:

SIG fixed it, with a nice note to the sot dealer to please install all future muzzle devices for the owner. :lmao:


So far a majority of failures were repeated baffle strikes and cross threading adapters. Which I quite enjoy seeing people get shit on after they post pictures and blame manufacturers.
 
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Let's try something easy and work our way to hard. What scope are you using? got another scope and rings to try?
Started with a Vortex Viper then went to a Nightforce NXS. Did the same thing. Scope rings are either Nightforce, Seekings or MDT's. Can't remember have to take a look.
Something is fucky.
Have a chassis you can try it in?
No, I could swap it into a plastic Remington stock.:barf:

I'm going to have the action and first couple inches of barrel glass bedded this summer.

It's a carbon wrapped barrel. So, I am wondering if the blank was turned down too much or if the carbon sleeve wasn't torqued enough.
 
It's a carbon wrapped barrel. So, I am wondering if the blank was turned down too much or if the carbon sleeve wasn't torqued enough.

Proof or someone elses?

since the beginning of these carbon wrapped barrels i have been very skeptical of hanging suppressors off the end and how basically its a pretensioned tube and you're drastically changing the harmonics and tension on the barrel.

that being said, im trying to figure out if there is enough steel to mount an Ops Inc collar to the front of one.
 
Started with a Vortex Viper then went to a Nightforce NXS. Did the same thing. Scope rings are either Nightforce, Seekings or MDT's. Can't remember have to take a look.

No, I could swap it into a plastic Remington stock.:barf:

I'm going to have the action and first couple inches of barrel glass bedded this summer.

It's a carbon wrapped barrel. So, I am wondering if the blank was turned down too much or if the carbon sleeve wasn't torqued enough.

I would guess it's moving in the stock. You can bed with acra-glass if you're fancy, but jb-weld works in a pinch.

I never bed barrels. Too much work to change barrels since they never end up profiled exactly the same.


Who's carbon barrel? Some seem to be better than others. Proof is good, carbon six is good (located down the road and uses McGowan blanks like proof started with).
Even had good luck with preferred barrel blanks but only have a sample of 1.


However, if it's a factory Christensen arms, I know a few guys that sent them back because they were having issues. They never shot until they got pissed and had them re-barreled. The local gun store had so many issues they dropped them and won't even sell one now. :laughing:
 
Proof or someone elses?

since the beginning of these carbon wrapped barrels i have been very skeptical of hanging suppressors off the end and how basically its a pretensioned tube and you're drastically changing the harmonics and tension on the barrel.

that being said, im trying to figure out if there is enough steel to mount an Ops Inc collar to the front of one.

You know they have websites where they list all the dimensions, right? :flipoff2:

Tons of guys using carbon barrels with cans. No issue. Some of the cheaper rimfire stuff is carbon tube held by the muzzle device. All the centerfire is carbon wrapped and bonded with decent chunks of steel on both ends too machine to your liking.

Of course, I hand load everything so I've never been very concerned. I just do all load development with the can on and use the same can for the life of the barrel.
 
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