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engineering that makes you want to punch babies.

Blend door motors.
Fuck them things.
And fuck Ford for me having to pull windshield arms to get at the battery to disconnect it.
Cause of course the whole center console has to come out, and that means leaving it in gear. Nobody wants to listen to the dinger.
i need to do the blend door in my escalade. maybe next spring.
 
just doin' ford/volvo things?
The funny thing is the battery is the same place in a Volvo but has a removable panel in the cowling to get at it easily.
So Ford knows how to not make it suck, they just chose not to on the Ford branded one
 
Replaced the radiator in wife's Mercedes GLK this weekend. They made the radiator, electric fan, PS cooler, and condenser where they all snap together and are apparently meant to be pulled as one unit. The radiator is just narrow enough to fit between the frame rails but the PS and refrigerant lines take up just enough space to make radiator removal/installation almost impossible without disconnecting all of those lines.

I don't want to evacuate the AC just to swap a radiator.

I fought it for a few hours and finally persuaded things back into place without disconnecting the PS and AC lines. If they had made the radiator a 1/4" narrower, it would have been a 30 minute job.:mad3:
 
Had a late 2007 GM 2500...condenser failed (because I put a screwdriver through it). It's right fucking there....out in the open. Except that GM welded some square tube core support brace in there so that it can't be remove in 20 seconds, but instead the whole bumper, headlights, headlight buckets, and a bunch of other shit need to come off. They could have used 2 bolts at the top of it and life would have been simpler.
 
Oil drain plug locations that fill up factory skid plates, looking at you here GMT800s
The trick was to jack the front of the truck up a foot or so, it'd still hit the skid plate but would run right out the back at least with the 6.0 it would.
 
Replaced the radiator in wife's Mercedes GLK this weekend. They made the radiator, electric fan, PS cooler, and condenser where they all snap together and are apparently meant to be pulled as one unit. The radiator is just narrow enough to fit between the frame rails but the PS and refrigerant lines take up just enough space to make radiator removal/installation almost impossible without disconnecting all of those lines.

I don't want to evacuate the AC just to swap a radiator.

I fought it for a few hours and finally persuaded things back into place without disconnecting the PS and AC lines. If they had made the radiator a 1/4" narrower, it would have been a 30 minute job.:mad3:
That's punishment for being too good to spread the rails 1/4 with a porta-power. :flipoff2:
 
Fuck Gardner Denver with a rusty shovel. Fucking VS170 compressor motors, originally equipped with a custom 280M frame 3600 rpm 170 KW motor, which by the way doesn't exist in normal motor and not to mention this is in a VFD application. Then after figuring out that's retarded they sell you a fucking special 445 frame motor made by bumfuck Chinese company for way to much money with a driveshaft turned down to 60mm for some retarded reason. To add insult to injury instead of using a normal off the shelf coupling they use a fucking German KTR coupling that pretty much doesn't exist in the US.

Seriously how fucking hard is it to make the thing a ft wider (like every other fucking compressor they sell), slap a normal ass 447T frame motor on it (like they use on their fixed speed compressors) and use a fucking normal love joy or a grid coupling, or a fucking omega coupling on it?

To add injury to insult the fucking motor is $32k for something that should cost $10k and be sitting on a shelf ,not take 10 fucking weeks to show up. If this motor shits like the last last one did we already told the VP of sales for GD we are slapping whatever the cheapest Chinese shit we can find in there, rather than paying for the GD name on it.

So any recommendations for cheap 200 hp compressors that might make it 5 years?
 
So any recommendations for cheap 200 hp compressors that might make it 5 years?
No idea what the price on them is, but we've been very happy with the Rogers/Quincy screw compressors at work, we have one smaller than that and two bigger than that.
They basically start and run at full load until they get shut off, they get oil, separators, filters, etc and haven't had much work needed since I started there.

Aaron Z
 
Replaced the radiator in wife's Mercedes GLK this weekend. They made the radiator, electric fan, PS cooler, and condenser where they all snap together and are apparently meant to be pulled as one unit. The radiator is just narrow enough to fit between the frame rails but the PS and refrigerant lines take up just enough space to make radiator removal/installation almost impossible without disconnecting all of those lines.

I don't want to evacuate the AC just to swap a radiator.

I fought it for a few hours and finally persuaded things back into place without disconnecting the PS and AC lines. If they had made the radiator a 1/4" narrower, it would have been a 30 minute job.:mad3:
Very audi of them.

Put the front clip in service position is words I don't like to read.
 
No idea what the price on them is, but we've been very happy with the Rogers/Quincy screw compressors at work, we have one smaller than that and two bigger than that.
They basically start and run at full load until they get shut off, they get oil, separators, filters, etc and haven't had much work needed since I started there.

Aaron Z

Yea after all the issues with our GD's we went back to Quincy for our newest. It's only 100hp though.
 
We've had good luck with Boge.
Not exactly cheap, but they're local (plant is 15miles from our place).
 
So any recommendations for cheap 200 hp compressors that might make it 5 years?
We've got a bunch of 75hp and 100hp Quincy units that have been good to us for over 5 years. Service and customer support has been good up until the last one that arrived damaged and it was like pulling teeth to get them to fix it. Still good units and about 100000x better than Ingersoll. Do not go Ingersoll
 
get you one made in the '20s

*1920s

guess I've gotta specify that now, huh
Those have the same issues only worse. Obsolete couplings, oddball motor frames, shit bearing options, and parts don't exist unless you make them.
 
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but parts are meant to be made, because basically everything is engineered around being soft iron or poor steel and poured lead

Just because you can fix doesn't mean fixing it 5x the amount you would with a modern one gains you anything.
 
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There’s a starter under there I’m told. 15 years and 235k mi ain’t too bad guess.
 
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From the factory MB used gaskets on the oil water heater exchanger that couldn't handle the harsh conditions of the valley of the motor...
 
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There’s a starter under there I’m told. 15 years and 235k mi ain’t too bad guess.
It's easy.
Buy new intake manifold o rings.
Be careful of the connector on the throttle body, it's easy to pull it's guts out not the actual connector.
Oh and the harness to it clipped down there on the manifold is s mother fucker to get unclipped. Jam a big flat blade in it.
Did mine in a hotel parking lot the first time. Took 3 hours.
The second one took me about an hour. Buy a legit denso or whatever OEM replacement, parts store one sucked, but hotel parking lot.

Edit:
And a 3\8 flex head tear drop ratchet. Trust me. That e torx bolt facing the firewall sucks without.
 
It's easy.
Buy new intake manifold o rings.
Be careful of the connector on the throttle body, it's easy to pull it's guts out not the actual connector.
Oh and the harness to it clipped down there on the manifold is s mother fucker to get unclipped. Jam a big flat blade in it.
Did mine in a hotel parking lot the first time. Took 3 hours.
The second one took me about an hour. But a legit denso replacement, parts store one sucked, but hotel parking lot.
Dont forget the Ez-up
 
Hope its not awd and you have some good Etorx sockets.
It is and my e torx came from hf :flipoff2:

One thing I notice is how effortlessly the fasteners unthread once broken loose, I like that!

New starter is in and it cranked over. Was not supplied with intake o rings hoping for the best :homer:

Seems like it would be easy to remove the manifold if some nazi fuckhead didn’t have to attach every wire, cable bundle and hose they could to it.

First starter bolt i removed was not like the others and took quite awhile to find its hole to put it back. Tiny lil thing I assume just to hold the starter to the engine before the trans is installed.

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Surprised by the lack of gunk in the ports.
 
Fuck the guy that designed this. The leads go in one hole ,go around two 90 degree turns, under a bar and out of the other hole. Then there is barely enough room to shove all that shit back in,so you can beat the 2 1/2 inch thick brass plug back in
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Maybe it's my browser, I dunno
tons of fucking sites have this as their text and background color

just fucking fuck you
then when you select the text to get some goddamn contrast going, it goes to a similar contrast of blues instead of grays

Every web designer after about '02 needs to be fed into a wood chipper.
don't even get me started on javascript trash taking over where plain html and plaintext would have been a fuckload better
 
The engine blew in my girlfriends 97 Rav4 that she's had since highschool. If she didn't have a bunch of sentimental attachment to it it would be going straight to the scrap yard. What a miserable design to work on. You have to take the valvecover off to unplug the injector harness because it's covered by the intake manifold and the harness is bolted to the underside of the intake but the injectors go straight into the head so you can't pull the whole mess as a unit.

I've got a one year later engine to put in so I have to transfer the original wiring over to it and swap it from coilpack back to distributor ignition. The number of what the fucks with bolt access needing stubby extensions or bent wrenches or open end wrenches because the bolt barely backs out without running into other shit is ridiculous.

Plus I have to do the other rear brake line while the engines out because the junction block is dead center on the firewall behind the engine and it took a crowsfoot on 18" of extension to replace the other one before. The whole engine bay is 10lbs of shit in a 5lb bag and it was all stuffed in from below as a unit without a fuck given for making it serviceable later.
 
The engine blew in my girlfriends 97 Rav4 that she's had since highschool. If she didn't have a bunch of sentimental attachment to it it would be going straight to the scrap yard. What a miserable design to work on. You have to take the valvecover off to unplug the injector harness because it's covered by the intake manifold and the harness is bolted to the underside of the intake but the injectors go straight into the head so you can't pull the whole mess as a unit.

I've got a one year later engine to put in so I have to transfer the original wiring over to it and swap it from coilpack back to distributor ignition. The number of what the fucks with bolt access needing stubby extensions or bent wrenches or open end wrenches because the bolt barely backs out without running into other shit is ridiculous.

Plus I have to do the other rear brake line while the engines out because the junction block is dead center on the firewall behind the engine and it took a crowsfoot on 18" of extension to replace the other one before. The whole engine bay is 10lbs of shit in a 5lb bag and it was all stuffed in from below as a unit without a fuck given for making it serviceable later.
Just be glad she didn't have a new Beetle.
 
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