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engineering that makes you want to punch babies.

PoBoy84 said:
While it's fun to make old machines better, who makes belt driven things with no tensioner?? This is the factory motor location.

20230213_000232.jpg
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Almost zero of our industrial equipment has a tensioner. It's all either gravity or regular slots.
 
vetteboy79 said:
Did you have it do that cool thing where the unit inside the door handle overheats and oozes all the potting compound down the side of the door?
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Door handle seems fine. Everything quit all at once, even the buttons on the fob. No power to the diversity module.
Hopefully my variety of silicone wire shows up tomorrow and we can all learn how much fun repairing hatch wiring is.

Good news, your x5 probably shares the same problem and module.
 
87manche said:
Door handle seems fine. Everything quit all at once, even the buttons on the fob. No power to the diversity module.
Hopefully my variety of silicone wire shows up tomorrow and we can all learn how much fun repairing hatch wiring is.

Good news, your x5 probably shares the same problem and module.
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My Saturn Sky I think had something similar crap out, the same 'wireless unit' controls the key fob and the TPMS, I guess it's known to go bad or forget stuff if it sits without power for too long, and needs to be dealer reflashed from what I can tell.

Unless you happen to know of a better way to do that?

My X5 has the cool feature that if I turn on the rear defrost it fuzzes out all the FM stations, so probably the same thing.
 
vetteboy79 said:
My Saturn Sky I think had something similar crap out, the same 'wireless unit' controls the key fob and the TPMS, I guess it's known to go bad or forget stuff if it sits without power for too long, and needs to be dealer reflashed from what I can tell.

Unless you happen to know of a better way to do that?

My X5 has the cool feature that if I turn on the rear defrost it fuzzes out all the FM stations, so probably the same thing.
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I don't know anything about GM electronics. If it were mine I'd own a Chinese clone of the factory adapter and stolen software.

Same diversity module does the fm radio amp, so wiring may be in your future. They grounded the PCB using the nuts that hold it in the waterproof box and there's a big long blurb in ista about PCB corrosion on the ground. May be worth a quick look. Takes about fifteen minutes to get at it in my spoiler. Unsure about x5 things.
 
vetteboy79 said:
My Saturn Sky I think had something similar crap out, the same 'wireless unit' controls the key fob and the TPMS, I guess it's known to go bad or forget stuff if it sits without power for too long, and needs to be dealer reflashed from what I can tell.
Click to expand...

Returned my redline after a month of dealing with shit falling apart and the roof leaking more than the titanic.
 
Thumping said:
I thought about that but I read some reviews on the Ranger Station about how most of the time the thin wrenches would just bend. It would probably have been worth the $12 though just to avoid the aggravation. :laughing:
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After repeated use they definitely bend. I just hammered mine back, till I found a cheap 1 7/8” wrench.
 
well since this has turned into "my german shitbox"

today's episode.

open up loom. repair wires (I thought)

reassemble, make it not a mess, do it all proper.
plug it in, doesn't fucking work.

no voltage on the wire I just replaced that was obviously broken.
fuck.
jam power probe in the wire I just put in the car at the butt joint, get brave, push the + button.
diversity module gets 12v, keyfob works again.
fuck.
so it looks like I'm further diagnosing why this wire no 12v.

the box
IMG_20230214_113555731.jpg


the terrible butyl rubber shit that makes the job suck.
IMG_20230214_114020224.jpg


a broken wire, the one that feeds 12v to the box.

IMG_20230214_121043634_HDR.jpg


get 4 wires through the thingy with lots of lube.
IMG_20230214_124017269_HDR.jpg


clean up my mess.
IMG_20230214_130259337_HDR.jpg


then have regrests about not plugging it in before I made the effort to seal all that shit up nice.
:homer:
 
protip, power probe switch burns out eventually if you use it while the shit is jammed in there
if you push the switch, then jam it in there the arc is on the probe tip rather than the switch contacts
oh and also, "break" is always more important than "make"
 
[486] said:
protip, power probe switch burns out eventually if you use it while the shit is jammed in there
if you push the switch, then jam it in there the arc is on the probe tip rather than the switch contacts
oh and also, "break" is always more important than "make"
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Good tip but never saw a need for a PP. A good VOM, a test light, and a few jumper leads are all you really need.
 
[486] said:
protip, power probe switch burns out eventually if you use it while the shit is jammed in there
if you push the switch, then jam it in there the arc is on the probe tip rather than the switch contacts
oh and also, "break" is always more important than "make"
Click to expand...

only milliamps worth of load. 3 amp fuse, 22ga wire. I don't generally use it to switch power to anything big. I have rigged it to a relay to use it to do dumb shit in the past and having a relay on a button is nice.
plym49.2 said:
Good tip but never saw a need for a PP. A good VOM, a test light, and a few jumper leads are all you really need.
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power probe is like all those things in one box that you just hook up to the car.
I didn't use it a bunch at first, but it's handy.


so. the conclusion of today's episode.

I'm colorblind apparently.
I went out there with a clear list of what factory colors were gonna match with my wire colors and a whole plan. Checked them off on the list.
inspected my work after.
really trying.

still got two wires wrong.
:homer:

Thankfully I fucked up in the one place with extra wire tucked inside the d pillar, so two more wire connections later and my comfort access shit all came back to life.



on the next episode:
Why the fuck has my bluetooth quit working?
 
[486] said:
"black man's whip"
"bring money with"
"break my windows"
"beat my wife"
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can't be too mad about that, I did change it's entire I drive system to one that shouldn't be in there. When I hooked up ista the first time it reset all the most devices on the bus, so it probably needs coded again. It's doing mp3 decoding so it's on the bus and doing something.
 
87manche said:
only milliamps worth of load. 3 amp fuse, 22ga wire. I don't generally use it to switch power to anything big. I have rigged it to a relay to use it to do dumb shit in the past and having a relay on a button is nice.

power probe is like all those things in one box that you just hook up to the car.
I didn't use it a bunch at first, but it's handy.
Click to expand...

When I had my shop the mechanics with PPs were the ones who did not know the first thing about electricity. IOW, they could not troubleshoot anything as depended on the PP to figure things out for them.

87manche said:
so. the conclusion of today's episode.

I'm colorblind apparently.


on the next episode:
Why the fuck has my bluetooth quit working?
Click to expand...
Duh, because for you it's graytooth.
 
85 BMW 325es 2.7 I6 Thing has 6, SIX! damned coolant temp sensors and switches. No one I've asked knows which one tells the ecm it's not cold. I ordered the two on the engine side of the t stat.
 
Thatg9659 said:
85 BMW 325es 2.7 I6 Thing has 6, SIX! damned coolant temp sensors and switches. No one I've asked knows which one tells the ecm it's not cold. I ordered the two on the engine side of the t stat.
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Brother you gotta ask.
I'll send you a link when I get home.
It's the secret squirrel factory documentation. Invite only because BMW got mad about tis being on the interwebs for free.
 
My z3 and z4 crap could probably use that info if you’ve got something. I’m so damaged from mk4 vw stuff that the e85 doesn’t phase me a bit. All those cooling system o rings around the expansion tank can eat a bag of dicks though.
 
New fpr and new engine side coolant temperature sensor, it’s pretty happy now. Intake manifold is so pretty, No balls tho.

IMG_4127.jpeg


Vacuum line off the FPR was sucking fuel into the intake and it started great when cold and ran “good” when cold, but ran like shit and hated to start hot.

Maybe five minutes to swap both parts.
 
20230920_202007.jpg


Oil sump on Detroit dd series engines.

Plastic manifold and 5 different critical failure points that, if and when they fail. Will lead to oil bypassing back into the oil pan...which is also plastic. And this is all before the oil reaches the block.
 
Wife's new Volvo, and all p3 Volvos, have the dumbest cabin air filter ever.
It was real easy on the p2 chassis, and they kept it there for the p3 chassis.
Then they put a bunch of shit in the way that makes it impossible to pull the filter out including the central electrical module. So you gotta take that out under the dash with it's 32 electrical connectors and all that just to do the cabin air filter. Shit took me like an hour.
 
87manche said:
Blend door motors.
Fuck them things.
And fuck Ford for me having to pull windshield arms to get at the battery to disconnect it.
Cause of course the whole center console has to come out, and that means leaving it in gear. Nobody wants to listen to the dinger.
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just doin' ford/volvo things?
 
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