Enclosed trailer thread #eleventy

[rockota]

I would smash my knee into that jack every time...
Have one in that spot on a trailer and its always in the way.
Love the drop leg I put on my 6x10 landscape trailer.

Aaron Z

glad you said it...
I'd have added a crossmember in the middle and done a different jack style. For the exact same reason....

 

[toomany]

No opinion on the flooring?

I sprayed Raptor liner on the floor and ramps of my snowmobile trailer. I wanted something that was continuous up the edges to get a good seal. Has been on a few years and has held up great to the ski's and studs.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I would smash my knee into that jack every time...
Have one in that spot on a trailer and its always in the way.
Love the drop leg I put on my 6x10 landscape trailer.

Aaron Z

Knee? Are you 4' tall?

glad you said it...
I'd have added a crossmember in the middle and done a different jack style. For the exact same reason....

Like I said, I wanted to keep tongue area open for a box. I did exactly what you said on my car trailer and have been happy for the most part. If it proves to be in the way, I can just take it off and throw it inside the trailer or back of the truck.

I sprayed Raptor liner on the floor and ramps of my snowmobile trailer. I wanted something that was continuous up the edges to get a good seal. Has been on a few years and has held up great to the ski's and studs.

did you buy a kit with a sprayer? I'm wondering if roll on would be the way to go?

 

[aczlan]

Knee? Are you 4' tall?

Closer to 4' tall than 10' tall
Most trailers that size are setup for a hitch that is around 18-22" off of the ground. My knee is about 20" off of the ground and thus is perfectly positioned to smack into a jack such as that

Aaron Z

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Closer to 4' tall than 10' tall
Most trailers that size are setup for a hitch that is around 18-22" off of the ground. My knee is about 20" off of the ground and thus is perfectly positioned to smack into a jack such as that

Aaron Z

I don't know, I guess I don't see how that would happen. But I'm also not the type that walks 1/4" away from the back bumper and hits thier shin on the hitch.

 

[aczlan]

I don't know, I guess I don't see how that would happen. But I'm also not the type that walks 1/4" away from the back bumper and hits thier shin on the hitch.

Trying to reach into the back of the truck for something and forgetting that the jack is there is how it usually happens for me...

Aaron Z

 

[toomany]

did you buy a kit with a sprayer? I'm wondering if roll on would be the way to go?

Yes I did. I don't know if rolling it on would work well. It's a catalyzed product, once you mix the shelf life is pretty short.

Thier gun is unique in that it screws on to the 1 pint bottles. Other than that it's no different than an undercoating gun. I wouldn't want to be cleaning it out of a gun I planned on keeping though. Can play with the air pressure to get the texture you're after. The kit with the gun wasn't that expensive.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Yes I did. I don't know if rolling it on would work well. It's a catalyzed product, once you mix the shelf life is pretty short.

Thier gun is unique in that it screws on to the 1 pint bottles. Other than that it's no different than an undercoating gun. I wouldn't want to be cleaning it out of a gun I planned on keeping though. Can play with the air pressure to get the texture you're after. The kit with the gun wasn't that expensive.

I looked them up, and ya, most kits come with a gun.

Is it rubbery or more plastic? I hate the hard plastic type liner that's almost like sharp texture.

I think I'm leaning more towards this now, the rubber sounded neat, but started to worry how well it would work in the corners. Then getting flashing to hold the edges, keep the corners down, then the door opening, ect.

 

[toomany]

I looked them up, and ya, most kits come with a gun.

Is it rubbery or more plastic? I hate the hard plastic type liner that's almost like sharp texture.

I think I'm leaning more towards this now, the rubber sounded neat, but started to worry how well it would work in the corners. Then getting flashing to hold the edges, keep the corners down, then the door opening, ect.

It's more plastic than rubber. LineX is more rubbery if that is what you want, costs more though.

We've never had a problem with it being slippery, even with snowmobile boots on and snow on the floor.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

It's more plastic than rubber. LineX is more rubbery if that is what you want, costs more though.

We've never had a problem with it being slippery, even with snowmobile boots on and snow on the floor.

The stuff I don't like is the shit that's rock hard and sharp as shit. I honestly thought that was Linex

 

[Twankie]

Knee? Are you 4' tall?



Like I said, I wanted to keep tongue area open for a box. I did exactly what you said on my car trailer and have been happy for the most part. If it proves to be in the way, I can just take it off and throw it inside the trailer or back of the truck.

Drop leg jack mounted inside toolbox with handle sticking out the front or side

 

[YotaAtieToo]

First mock up, could squeeze them together a little more if I wanted, but I think it worked out pretty well. I wanted as much room as possible in the front.

As far as the DC cargo chalks, they worked well, but I could have mounted them lower and it would have worked better. Should have probably just waited until they arrived to do the e track, but oh well.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

First test was today, and was a pretty good one since it involved about 30 miles of dirt road. It was rough enough I ended up letting air out of the truck and trailer. Which helped a ton. I'm thinking about putting some larger truck type tires on it since I was so nervous about popping a tire on a rock or stick the whole time, a bit more clearance wouldn't hurt either.

Everything worked as it should. So nice to just toss stuff in there and not worry.

Poser shot in Lakeview on pend orille.

As far as the drag I mentioned, it didn't seem as bad today, but maybe I'm just getting used to it. It definitely sucks the fuel, but it is what it is. Worth it to me.

What's funny is there is a decent grade coming into town from the south. Its really straight, so I usually just kinda coast down it. With no trailer, hit the top at 60, it will coast to about 70 or a little over, with this trailer, it slows down and I have to give it a tiny bit of throttle to maintain 60

Next thing is a spot to hang or secure a fold up table, and I'd like some hooks for the helmets. I'd like some that fold flat when not used. Off to Google.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Not what I had in mind for helmets, but I found these and thought they would be handy for stuff like the camel packs, trash bag, hoodies, ect.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B58L8G8Z/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Started prepping for the raptor liner yesterday. Floor was dirty enough I decided to pressure wash it. Used the leaf blower to dry it as best i could. I was hoping it would stay sunny to dry it further, but in typical north idaho fashion it started thundering.

I remembered we bought a roll around ac unit. So I threw it in there and just put it on dry. Holy shit did that work well, felt dry in less than an hour, but left it on for about 4 more, gave it a break over night and then turned it on today.

Guy I know who works for a place says they use a weed burner on wood before they spray it to make sure it's dry, so I may do that also.

One thing I'm on the fence about is the thin ass trim wood in the corners. I stapled it down tight, and plan to caulk one spot where the old stuff split. My guy says rip it out and do aluminum angle iron, but I think I'm going to just spray it heavy in the corners and call it good.


Also, does anyone want or need some of those DC cargo chalks? They way the price break down is it only makes sense to buy 4. Iirc, 1 is $60, 2 is $100 and 4 is $120

 

[rockota]

Started prepping for the raptor liner yesterday. Floor was dirty enough I decided to pressure wash it. Used the leaf blower to dry it as best i could. I was hoping it would stay sunny to dry it further, but in typical north idaho fashion it started thundering.

I remembered we bought a roll around ac unit. So I threw it in there and just put it on dry. Holy shit did that work well, felt dry in less than an hour, but left it on for about 4 more, gave it a break over night and then turned it on today.

Guy I know who works for a place says they use a weed burner on wood before they spray it to make sure it's dry, so I may do that also.

One thing I'm on the fence about is the thin ass trim wood in the corners. I stapled it down tight, and plan to caulk one spot where the old stuff split. My guy says rip it out and do aluminum angle iron, but I think I'm going to just spray it heavy in the corners and call it good.


Also, does anyone want or need some of those DC cargo chalks? They way the price break down is it only makes sense to buy 4. Iirc, 1 is $60, 2 is $100 and 4 is $120

not a bad idea as it will also "seal" the wood...

 

[YotaAtieToo]

not a bad idea as it will also "seal" the wood...

Yes, but also wasn't smart to do after we rotated and papered it

Went fine, but I didn't really burn it, just hit it all quickish.

Waiting for 2nd coat. Definitely glad I got 6 qts, despite people saying 4 would be enough. 5 qts for coat 1. Wish I would have gotten 8.

Plan is to hit the corners again with the last qt. Thinking about getting 2 more. To 2nd coat the whole floor.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What are you doing to water proof the underside?

In my experience, water proofing one side of wood makes the exposed side less able to dry when it gets wet. If you do the top, you should also do the bottom. Otherwise, let it all get wet, then it can all dry.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

What are you doing to water proof the underside?

In my experience, water proofing one side of wood makes the exposed side less able to dry when it gets wet. If you do the top, you should also do the bottom. Otherwise, let it all get wet, then it can all dry.

I'd imagine they spray it with something at the factory or it would be getting wet from spray. When I peaked under there, it looked like some type of heavy paint or maybe undercoating.

So I was able to get 2 more quarts of stuff from auto zone for a 2nd coat on the floor. It still seems way to thin to me even with double the recommended amount.

maybe i was expecting too much? I figured it would end up super thick and somewhat seal the seams at the corners and between the sheets, which it did not. Heck, you can still see the grain in the wood. I can't see hosing this out without getting water into the seams.

If i do this again, I would just go with the rubber liner.

But whatever, it's a cheap trailer, it will work.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

So I've been tossing around the idea of putting slightly bigger at truck tires on this thing for added clearance and durability on bad dirt roads. A set of basically new 30x9.5r15s came with the pop up camper and chevy I just bought. Should be perfect?

I'm a little worried about clearance between the side of the trailer and the side wall. I can get 15x6 trailer wheels, but I belive all trailer wheels are zero offset?

Wondering if I should look at 15x7s with 3" bs....I don't want to spend much on this

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Took this out again over the weekend.

Everything worked fine except that it appears to be sucking dust in, like there is a vacuum just pulling it in

Someone here mentioned adding a vent scoop to the top to help pressurize it slightly. This one has a small vent at the top front and bottom rear. Clearly not enough.

Any ideas on a scoop that either doesn't allow rain in, or can be easily closed?

 

[CarterKraft]

Took this out again over the weekend.

Everything worked fine except that it appears to be sucking dust in, like there is a vacuum just pulling it in

Someone here mentioned adding a vent scoop to the top to help pressurize it slightly. This one has a small vent at the top front and bottom rear. Clearly not enough.

Any ideas on a scoop that either doesn't allow rain in, or can be easily closed?

You might be money ahead to build some vortex generators for the top and sides of the rear to release the low pressure area at the rear.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

You might be money ahead to build some vortex generators for the top and sides of the rear to release the low pressure area at the rear.

I'm thinking that's only part of the issue. It's getting dust from the front also, so probably coming in the side door and rear doors, plus whatever other gaps.

My 4runner has that thing on the top rear and the back window still gets covered dust or snow.

 

[CarterKraft]

I'm thinking that's only part of the issue. It's getting dust from the front also, so probably coming in the side door and rear doors, plus whatever other gaps.

My 4runner has that thing on the top rear and the back window still gets covered dust or snow.

It's still gonna get dusty it's just a negative pressure area so it's gonna draw pressure from the camper.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

It's still gonna get dusty it's just a negative pressure area so it's gonna draw pressure from the camper.

Maybe I'm not understanding.

I don't care if it's dusty on the outside. The thought with a bigger scoop, I could hopefully create a positive pressure inside, which would make it hard to for dust to come in?

Obviously getting the doors to seal better would be a good idea also, I'm just not sure what else to do, the rubber looks decent.

 

[Gatorgrizz27]

There’s a bunch of stuff on off-road camper/caravan forums about keeping dust out, basically you need to create positive pressure inside the trailer.

I think you’d do better with a fan than a scoop, especially if you’re at slow speeds on washboard roads, etc. I don’t think you’ll be sucking dust in with it mounted up high on the roof, but you could always add a piece of foam sprayed with air filter oil.

You can buy knock off “fantastic fans” for ~ $100 and put them on with a tall roof scoop, still facing backwards. Won’t get wet inside and don’t have to worry about the cover being opened/closed. They are reversible, I’d wire it with a relay so the fan comes on sucking air in every time the truck is started. Wire a second lead through a switch so it can be run for a short time period when parked to either suck hot air out of the trailer or blow cool air in. Would be way nicer when loading up and getting everything tied down after the trailer’s been sitting in the sun.

I can’t remember enough about 12v electricity off the top of my head to remember if you’d need a diode or something to keep it from getting screwed up if you have the switch turned on and someone starts the truck.

 

[Provience]

down after the trailer’s been sitting in the sun.

I can’t remember enough about 12v electricity off the top of my head to remember if you’d need a diode or something to keep it from getting screwed up if you have the switch turned on and someone starts the truck.

I don't think you'd need a diode, seems like the higher voltage from the truck running would negate the need for a diode. Just don't leave it hooked up when not running, unless you are triggering it off a relay which is only closed when key is one

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I'm not wiring in something complex enough to know when the truck started anyway. If I did a fan it would just be wired to a 3 way switch. Currently the trailer doesn't even have a battery anyway, so a fan isn't happening until after a battery is mounted.

We did use it over memorial day and it worked awesome. Brought my oldest sons buddy and his bike. Then the 4 boys and 2 dogs used it as thier man cave, 2 cots and 2 hammocks in there

The only problem right now is I'm really wishing I had one big enough to fit my crawler......so I'm contemplating selling this and maybe another trailer to get an 8x20 or so.