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Enclosed trailer thread #eleventy

YotaAtieToo

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
142
Messages
11,251
Loc
Bonners Ferry, ID
It started out looking at buying or building a shed to keep our dirt bikes in. We currently have 5, (pw50, ttr50, kx65, crf150 & 300xc, fwiw)

Then I realized, why not just get a shed on wheels? That way it doesn't take half a day to load everything up just to go out for a few hours.

Long story shot, a year later my co worker mentioned he got a new one and would sell his 7x14 for a good price. Ended up at $3800 :smokin:

Plan is to keep dirtbikes and all gear, fuel, ect in it and be able to hook up and go. Secondary plan is to be able to camp out of it. So wanting to make it more functional for those purposes. I'd also like to possibly stuff my samurai along with the bikes occasionally. Which I know would be tight, but I think do able.

Anyway, just posting pics for now, others ideas welcome.

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PAToyota said:
Check out Blackfish Fab for their wall bed and other items: Enclosed Trailer/Toy hauler Wall Bed kits
Click to expand...

I've seen them, and I may incorporate them. For now, I think the priority is to make the dirtbike hauling easier. Camping out of it will probably fairly rare. Also, trying to keep the budget low until we know if we like it or not.

Also, or mid term goal is to get another cab over, so I don't want to sink too much into the camping inside aspect.
 
Blackfish also makes fuel can and tool holders for the walls. If not that, then hang some 2x4s with wood to metal screws and build yourself some shelving.

Motorcycle storage stands bolt to the floor to keep them upright when transporting, but idk details, not into bikes.
 
Barn doors ftw. I had a 7x12 with them and it was so much easier to deal than the stupid ramp door on my toy hauler. Just made a little 4' ramp for loading the bikes.

I did flush mount wheel chocks in mine. 2 forward and one backward. Was fine with only 3 bikes but wasn't flexible beyond that. In my toy hauler I use chocks that lock in to e-track so I can just move them wherever I need/have e-track.

I added a permanent shelf at the front with some storage shelves underneath for a generator and minimal camping supplies like a baby Weber and a tote with charcoal/plates/utensils/etc. Usually just tossed an air mattress or fold up cot inside.
 
Gots_a_sol said:
Barn doors ftw. I had a 7x12 with them and it was so much easier to deal than the stupid ramp door on my toy hauler. Just made a little 4' ramp for loading the bikes.

I did flush mount wheel chocks in mine. 2 forward and one backward. Was fine with only 3 bikes but wasn't flexible beyond that. In my toy hauler I use chocks that lock in to e-track so I can just move them wherever I need/have e-track.

I added a permanent shelf at the front with some storage shelves underneath for a generator and minimal camping supplies like a baby Weber and a tote with charcoal/plates/utensils/etc. Usually just tossed an air mattress or fold up cot inside.
Click to expand...

You have pics of your etrack chocks?
 
I mounted my Spudbilt chocks to a piece of 3/4" plywood. When I get to the location I pull the chocks out and throw them under the RV.
Nothing to bolt down or trip over.

A buddy did the same but had the chocks made individually and used "Bed Bolts" to create the anchors needed to secure the chocks, eye bolts make "tool less" install/removal.

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com
 
Steve300xcw said:
I would secure the shit outta that trailer. More than a few guys have been cleaned out, because all the toys were stashed in the trailer
Click to expand...

Ya, I mean there is always a risk. Part of the reason I like it looking a little weathered vs baller. :laughing: Should be more secure while traveling than an open trailer since, out of sight out of mind.

CarterKraft said:
I mounted my Spudbilt chocks to a piece of 3/4" plywood. When I get to the location I pull the chocks out and throw them under the RV.
Nothing to bolt down or trip over.

A buddy did the same but had the chocks made individually and used "Bed Bolts" to create the anchors needed to secure the chocks, eye bolts make "tool less" install/removal.

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com
Click to expand...

Like you just landed the plywood on the floor and used lags?

I'm thinking e track on the walls maybe 12" from the floor with chocks that click in. I'll probably have to make them, but that's fine.

That gives me flexibility to move bikes around, add a bike or two, or pull everything for open floor.
 
I was meaning at your house. Know a few guys that have had somebody swing by the house an snag the trailer. They never saw the stack of banshee's, bikes or what ever else they had stored in it again
 
My 6x12, been awesome having everything in one spot ready to go.
 

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Back when we had a trailer for the bikes, we stuck an awning on the side of it. That thing got used alot
 
Steve300xcw said:
I was meaning at your house. Know a few guys that have had somebody swing by the house an snag the trailer. They never saw the stack of banshee's, bikes or what ever else they had stored in it again
Click to expand...

Anything is possible, but theft is almost zero up here, we have brand new mini existing sitting on new equipment trailers at work, no lock. The trailer dealer next door has no locks, along with the trailer rental place down the road.

Our house is down on a dead end road, we have a gate, giant dog, and cameras. But all else fails, we have insurance. I believe it's unlikely, but I'm not dumb enough to say it couldn't.

Wisconsinite said:
dccargomall.com

E track Motorcycle Wheel Chock, Wall Mount

10-gauge steel construction Clips in and out of E-Track for easy install and removal Holds tires up to 6” wide
dccargomall.com dccargomall.com
Click to expand...

Those are kinda neat, i like the pivoting.

Steve300xcw said:
Back when we had a trailer for the bikes, we stuck an awning on the side of it. That thing got used alot
Click to expand...

That would be sweet. We get a lot of summer showers over night. So an awning would be nice just to keep the camp chairs and whatnot dry. Or sit under while a storm passes over.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Ya, I mean there is always a risk. Part of the reason I like it looking a little weathered vs baller. :laughing: Should be more secure while traveling than an open trailer since, out of sight out of mind.



Like you just landed the plywood on the floor and used lags?

I'm thinking e track on the walls maybe 12" from the floor with chocks that click in. I'll probably have to make them, but that's fine.

That gives me flexibility to move bikes around, add a bike or two, or pull everything for open floor.
Click to expand...
I just bolted the chocks the plywood and it just sits on the floor. I run a few cam straps to the in floor tie downs front and rear to my foot pegs.
 
This is what started it, a scrap a bolted one too to add a mom bike on one trip.
Made it too easy to have flexibility needed for the multi purpose trailers.

I originally had it setup like the "bolt it on" bike bar and I still have the cross tube, brackets etc, I built to do that but it proved to be not needed when using the spudbilt chocks and it was a pain in the ass to walk through there when it was all loaded up.
The currrent setup is handle bar straps to front crossed, just to keep the bars from clanging in to each other. And then two cam straps from each footpeg to a flush mount tie down in the floor under the bike. That is rock solid, flip the trailer over type of secure.

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And what it looks like now.
YHhMyzNVbQ37RH2Y41t4SvQ=w1856-h902-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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So I got the new plug wired up and picked up some of the parts I needed.

One nice thing is all the lights except one tail light (already replaced) and one marker light, work. Including the interior light and 2 off the back with run off a switch.

I bought 2 new led dome lights for the inside and plan to put something bright on the back and hopefully wire it to the reverse circuit also.

Going to take the cheapo 3 bolt jack off since it's in the way of the tail gate. On my car trailer I welded on a drop leg jack about 6" further back, which works great, but I'm going to try a pivoting/removeable jack on this to keep the tongue area open for a tool box or possibly genny box. I'm a little skeptical about its stability, but it's a short one with a large foot, so we'll see.

Picked up 25' of etrack from honkey freight (new nickname we came up with on the way down):laughing:

Grabbed some tie down eyes and a pair of 2x4 etrack adapters as well.

I figured I'd take the trailer with in case we needed to measure anything also. Man I am surprised at how much of a wind drag this thing is. The mileage on the dash is worse at 60 mph than towing my 5k lb crawler on a car trailer at 80 mph :laughing: it's just a constant drag. Which I expected, just not this bad for not being that big of a trailer.
 
OP, do you get snow where you live? Because that trailer doesn't have near enough roof bars for much snow load.

There's a shit ton of internet pics of collapsed encloseds, so either keep it clear or build a center wall/beam for winter.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
OP, do you get snow where you live? Because that trailer doesn't have near enough roof bars for much snow load.

There's a shit ton of internet pics of collapsed encloseds, so either keep it clear or build a center wall/beam for winter.
Click to expand...
Don't worry, he's from California. He knows what he's doing. The locals are the ones doing it wrong. :flipoff2:
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
OP, do you get snow where you live? Because that trailer doesn't have near enough roof bars for much snow load.

There's a shit ton of internet pics of collapsed encloseds, so either keep it clear or build a center wall/beam for winter.
Click to expand...

We get snow, nothing crazy, but I'll keep it in mind. It was made in Idaho, and to my knowledge spent its whole life in this area, so it should be OK. But I don't plan to let 3' build up on it.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Don't worry, he's from California. He knows what he's doing. The locals are the ones doing it wrong. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

You're finally catching on :flipoff2:



Working on it a bit today, put the led dome lights in. Rear is not centered because that's how long the wire was :flipoff2:

Put the etrack at about 15" to the center. Hoping to cover all the sizes of bikes. I probably could have just used lag screws on every 4th hole or whatever and called it good but I drilled holes where necessary and used 1/4" drill screws to catch the "studs" makes me feel better at least. Then also filled the larger gaps with 1/4" lags.
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Got the jack switched over, so far it works great. On long trips, I'll probably just take It off.
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My father in law lent me his ramps, I think they'll work well, I'm thinking about getting the same ones and having some hooks on the door.

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I'm thinking next step is going to be ordering those DC cargo chalks and some flooring.

I'm leaning towards some 1/8" rubber like this.

www.recpro.com

8' 6" Diamond Pattern RV Flooring In Black

RecPro has a wide variety of RV Products like furniture, baggage doors and blinds. Free Shipping on all items!
www.recpro.com www.recpro.com

The 8' 6" by 15' would give me 11" up each wall. My thought is being able to wash dirt, mud, or any spilt fluids out without ruining the floor.

The other option would be some roll on bed liner type stuff? Just not sure I'd trust it to seal up as well.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
No opinion on the flooring?
Click to expand...
Meh. Not sure about that Rec pro stuff. I’d just seal it good and keep it clean. I don’t like the idea of stuff getting under there - because you know inevitably it will.

Maybe a self leveling epoxy like that stuff from “total boat” throw some sand in there for traction 🤷🏻‍♂️

But overall I like the whole idea. I have a husky te250i and I know I’d ride significantly more if everything was in one neat package, and I could hook up and go ride.
 
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