DIY Kitchen Remodel

[NORDFORD]

It’s a lot of work but rewarding. What’s your joinery plan?

 

[mjlogan88]

The fridge doesnt fit. It is full depth. It should be no suprise, but the wife doesn't want to give up the depth. The plan is to move the exterior wall behind it.

How do the doors swing out on your fridge? I went through all the work to frame a cubby for the fridge to set back in so I could get the face flush with the cabinet doors. Then I took a look at what the doors actually do when they open

 

[Seubs070]

I did this a few years ago. It was a ton of work, but I saved a ton a money. A few observations from my experience building DIY kitchen cabinets.

Painted cabinets are harder to get to look good then stained. Find a good sprayer and paint system to use. I used the General Finishes Enduro line of pigmented poly and their high build primer and was very happy with the results. Water Based Tintable Polyurethane Cabinet Finish: Enduro White Poly | General Finishes

Track saw is great for breaking down plywood, but sucks for ripping anything narrow, like narrower than 8". Not sure you need a sawstop, but I would look at a tablesaw too.

I would find some type of cutting system and stop to use with the tracksaw. If you can get perfectly square pieces of plywood all the exact same size building the boxes is easy. If they are off even slightly it is a nighmare. Either an MFT table or a DIY version with 20mm holes in a grid. I used the parf guide to create my own and added a benchdog fence to it.

Made the doors out of soft maple for the rails and styles and MDF for the panels. Worked great. Recommend a decent router table setup for the doors. Or you could do it at the tablesaw with a dado stack.

Use a narrow crown stapler to build the boxes and then add screws. No fancy joinery needed. This are semi disposable kitchen cabinet, not pieces of furniture. They will likely be ripped out in 20 years anyways.

Really think through your layout. I had one issue where the stoves sticks out a few inches proud of the cabinets. The stove was right next to an inside corner and the drawer on the other side of the corner would hit the stove when pulled out.

 

[Splib]

Resisting to comment on the post about only eating from a gas station, I mean microwave

Poca, what is the source of your drawings ? Did yu draw that up ? I authored a thread to that simple basic question and instead of a relevant answer I got the world according to Garp.

 

[kmkommes]

I finally made my 1st cuts last night. I am starting by making a 18" 4 drawer base cabinet. These pieces are my 1st attempt at applying some solid maple edge banding to the maple plywood. They are the front strecher/ drawer support pieces. They still need to be trimmed to length. I sanded the edge banding this morning and I'm super happy with this simple board.

Plywood is $95 a sheet...

Tools. I think I spend about $6-7k in tools. The wife doesn't care as long as I'm making progress.

3HP 36" Sawstop
Festool Track Saw
Dewalt 735 Planer
A bunch of random squares are stuff.

View attachment 859941

 

[billdacat]

NICE! Are you going to use any MDF?

 

[Wendle]

I finally made my 1st cuts last night. I am starting by making a 18" 4 drawer base cabinet. These pieces are my 1st attempt at applying some solid maple edge banding to the maple plywood. They are the front strecher/ drawer support pieces. They still need to be trimmed to length. I sanded the edge banding this morning and I'm super happy with this simple board.

Plywood is $95 a sheet...

Tools. I think I spend about $6-7k in tools. The wife doesn't care as long as I'm making progress.

3HP 36" Sawstop
Festool Track Saw
Dewalt 735 Planer
A bunch of random squares are stuff.

View attachment 859941

I know things are done differently in your hemisphere, but don't make individual kicks for each cupboard.
Work out your layout and make full length kicks that you can scribe down level and fix off before dropping the cabinets on top.

 

[jeeptj19992001]

What you using maple plywood on sides you will not see?
You can use a lesser grade for those sides like sanded fir.
Use only the good stuff on sides that are exposed.

 

[kmkommes]

NICE! Are you going to use any MDF?

Only for the backs of cabinets.

I know things are done differently in your hemisphere, but don't make individual kicks for each cupboard.
Work out your layout and make full length kicks that you can scribe down level and fix off before dropping the cabinets on top.

I am building and leveling the toe kicks 1st. The cabinets will just be square boxes that sit ont them. Seems like the easier way to go for me.

What you using maple plywood on sides you will not see?
You can use a lesser grade for those sides like sanded fir.
Use only the good stuff on sides that are exposed.

I admit I am a little lost at times with what materials to use where. I am for sure wasting nice wood. I'm using the excuse it is part of the learning process. I just built a 4 drawer cabinet where nothing but the front will show. I used nice plywood on the sides and even put in a 1/4 maple mdf sheet on the back. I had never done this so I figured it would be a good place to learn. Heck, the drawers are full overlay so almost none of the cabinet shows.

 

[kmkommes]

Something I learned. Plywood store plywood is not 48"x96". It is actually 48.5"x96.5". This is nice because I am able to square up every side and still make multiple 24" or 48" pieces.

qty 2 of the 18" wide 4 drawer boxes are done.

I nailed the edge banding on the 30" long sides instead of tape. This was needed to keep it straight. Cabinets will be painted so filling a few holes will be easy.

 

[kmkommes]

5/8" baltic birch for the drawers. No nails, just glue. This is really nice stuff. I love my new table saw. I never imagined being able to cut so precise so easily. The bottom of the drawer is 1/4" baltic birch as well. The bottom slides in from the back of the drawer so it can be replaced someday. It was just an easy way to assemble them.

 

[kmkommes]

I'm building an island. Top is 30mm quartzite 52"x90".
Research says the most you want for an unsupported overhang is 10-12"
I am planning for 15", but my design is supported on 3 sides. The seated area has a 76" gap.
I am getting mixed info about what is actually needed to support the seated or overhang areas. I did not ask my installer yet. I wanted to have more of a plan before I start consuming their time.

I can't find anything in regards to what the actual strength is. Does anyone have experience in this?

I did plan on having a sheet of plywood under the top and supporting that with some sort of rail. I understand the plywood alone won't do much of anything.

Help. :)

$110 sq ft installed. We will have about 70 sq ft.

 

[jeeptj19992001]

I'm building an island. Top is 30mm quartzite 52"x90".
Research says the most you want for an unsupported overhang is 10-12"
I am planning for 15", but my design is supported on 3 sides. The seated area has a 76" gap.
I am getting mixed info about what is actually needed to support the seated or overhang areas. I did not ask my installer yet. I wanted to have more of a plan before I start consuming their time.

I can't find anything in regards to what the actual strength is. Does anyone have experience in this?

I did plan on having a sheet of plywood under the top and suppurting that with some sort of rail. But that's not honestly going to do much.

Help. :)

$110 sq ft installed. We will have about 70 sq ft.

Your good
You are supported on the ends

 

[kmkommes]

The layout and current progress. Countertop gets installed 8/26. Base cabinets are ready. I did not cut a single board for the island yet. Schedule is tight.

 

[Pocahontas]

Yep your good, as long as it is supported on 3 sides your good up to 20 inches wide like that bigger of the unsupported section is smaller length wise. Biggest I recall was 120x20 unsupported but supported on 3 sides with a few small metal braces thrown in.

 

[mjlogan88]

That should be fine. Don’t bother with the plywood, it really won’t do anything

Here’s my oddball island I just built. Trimmed out 2x4 supports to deal with the overhang. Countertop guy said it was plenty of support for the quartzite

Your cabinets are turning out beautiful

 

[smracing]

I have the same quartzite on my island. It is supported on three sides, 18" overhang, 9' open area. I installed thee 1/2" x 3" steel angle supports bolted to the inside of the cabinets.

 

[fordguy]

thoughts in milecraft track saw kit for a circular saw? I have one but havent used yet

7" or 6" better? 7" saw seems like weight may get in the way?

 

[CarterKraft]

Overkill island overhang support

 

[Pocahontas]

thoughts in milecraft track saw kit for a circular saw? I have one but havent used yet

7" or 6" better? 7" saw seems like weight may get in the way?

I love my track saw, I put it off for a long time but it is a massive improvement over a table saw or circular saw, I have the m18 one.

No idea about that kit thing.

 

[kmkommes]

Overkill island overhang support

Thats what I didnt want to see. I was considering boxing in this area with some steel brackets. Now you have me thinking my dumb idea makes sense. I liked the answers above that allowed less work.

 

[kmkommes]

I have the festool track saw. It is probably overkill for me. It was the first track saw I've ever used. It has become one of my favorite tools. Cuts PERFECTLY straight and allows you to slice slivers off of boards. I don't see myself ever using an unguided skil saw on a long cut again.

The question isn't whether you need a track saw or not, the question is which one.

My track is a 55". I wish I had one to cut 8 ft. I will likley buy another 55" and connect them. They make them super long but price goes up exponentially into lala land.

 

[Projectjunkie]

Idk about your area and counter top choices, but the $110sf installed seems like somebody is getting fat

You might be able to find a better deal

This is a wholesale type place, and they keep printed off sheets on hand with installers they do business with and their contact info

 

[Projectjunkie]

 

[kmkommes]

Idk about your area and counter top choices, but the $110sf installed seems like somebody is getting fat

You might be able to find a better deal

BAGM - Granite, Marble & Quartz Countertops in Wisconsin

Bay Area Granite & Marble-BAGM the largest granite and quartz fabricator in Wisconsin. Slab Yards & Showrooms located in Green Bay/Suamico & Fox Cities/Appleton. Enriching homes & businesses through superior craftsmanship & stone selection.

www.bagm.com

It isn't the cheapest option but isnt the most expensive in the area.

We used them before at our last house and were happy. I trust them more than I trust a big box store subcontracting out the install.

Prices ranged from $70-$110. I told the wife to pick whatever she wanted. I save money in some areas and blow it in others. It evens out. In the end I am saving a lot over contracting this whole thing out.

 

[Pocahontas]

I have the festool track saw. It is probably overkill for me. It was the first track saw I've ever used. It has become one of my favorite tools. Cuts PERFECTLY straight and allows you to slice slivers off of boards. I don't see myself ever using an unguided skil saw on a long cut again.

The question isn't whether you need a track saw or not, the question is which one.

My track is a 55". I wish I had one to cut 8 ft. I will likley buy another 55" and connect them. They make them super long but price goes up exponentially into lala land.

I have the powertech tracks two 55s, hard to beat for the price. I would pick up another if needed no questions asked.


Projectjunkie price is real dependent on area. Stone general runs 25-40 $/sqft for granite and 35-60 $/sqft for quartz plus fab and install, 5-20 sqft. Does that price include fab but not install? You can also negotiate in for a sink, sometimes they will throw it in and other times they will try and charge you. If you have a smaller kitchen or smaller pieces of stone you can use remnants which should cut the price in half.

 

[kmkommes]

I browsed FB marketplace for months during this project. There are cheap slabs but nothing we wanted.

My price at $110 is installed, no tax.

Laser Template and Cut. Basically a perfect fit. We selected which portions of the slab were used. They didnt care much about waste. I guess you can say we paid for that luxury.

I don't mind anyone showing cheaper options or criticizing my decisions. Please, learn from my mistakes. :)

I'm the last car at work in the parking lot. I put enough time in today. I'm heading home to go build this thing.

 

[AKnate]

because you're a bachelor, eat shsit food, and are going to die of a heart attack when you're 50?

Don't need a big stove or fancy kitchen to eat decent food.

 

[CarterKraft]

thoughts in milecraft track saw kit for a circular saw? I have one but havent used yet

7" or 6" better? 7" saw seems like weight may get in the way?

You see it on the stumpy nubs youtube? I was pretty set on buying the KReg kit until that video, I am worried he might be a shill though.

 

[CarterKraft]

Thats what I didnt want to see. I was considering boxing in this area with some steel brackets. Now you have me thinking my dumb idea makes sense. I liked the answers above that allowed less work.

IF you don't know Mike PAteys work then maybe temper your idea if you think you failed.
He is the King of Overkill, BUT he is pretty fucking smart and actually does the calculations to know.
Having said that he is also MEGA rich so it's possible he is burning money.