Dirt Squirrel 3.0 - The 2nd Mortgage

[the_white_shadow]

Fixed the clearance issues i had up front. Moving the upper mounts out and down solved that. It still close but doesnt hit.

Tire lifted off the ground and overexaggerated full stuff on the drivers side and still no contact. About 1/4" clearance. Full bump, the belly is now at 15".

Ride height. Belly at 20". Top of chassis is ~71".

The fix for the upper mount. It improved clearances in every way.

Overall, im about 4" lower overall height than my last buggy with the body on it. Biggest improvement is the extra 4" of belly height (16" v. 20"). My kidneys will thank me.

 

[DesertCJ]

How’s the head clearance and floor to roof bar inner measurement of the cab? This can vary quite a bit depending on a persons height and personally I find is one of the more difficult things to lock down on a buggy along with belly height. You can cheat here or there but not here and there…lol

 

[the_white_shadow]

How’s the head clearance and floor to roof bar inner measurement of the cab? This can vary quite a bit depending on a persons height and personally I find is one of the more difficult things to lock down on a buggy along with belly height. You can cheat here or there but not here and there…lol

With new seats, i have my fist and a flat hand above my head to the nearest bar, or about 5". Im 5-10/11 so a taller person wouldnt fit very well i wouldnt think. The seat foam should break in some and ill gain another 1-1.5" of headroom.

As for the floor, i should have probably made the belly about 1-2" deeper to get the atlas lower in the chassis. it was the driving factor as to where i mounted my drivers seat (Drivers drop t-case). My seat is basically resting on top of the case and the atlas is about 1/4" above where the skid plate will be.

 

[DesertCJ]

I also have a 20” belly height but with a 120” wheel base. Mine could use like 2” more belly clearance or a shorter wb, but it’s also never rolled or flopped as is. With a 114” wb, I think you’ll be sitting pretty good with a 20” belly.

 

[YJ4Rox]

With new seats, i have my fist and a flat hand above my head to the nearest bar, or about 5". Im 5-10/11 so a taller person wouldnt fit very well i wouldnt think. The seat foam should break in some and ill gain another 1-1.5" of headroom.

As for the floor, i should have probably made the belly about 1-2" deeper to get the atlas lower in the chassis. it was the driving factor as to where i mounted my drivers seat (Drivers drop t-case). My seat is basically resting on top of the case and the atlas is about 1/4" above where the skid plate will be.

deeper belly would help for sure. Mine is so shallow with the atlas 1/4" above the skid I had to notch the pass seat like 4.5" to fit over the atlas. my specs are super similar, 113" WB-19.5" belly, 67" roof. Feels super super stable playing around in the yard.

 

[the_white_shadow]

deeper belly would help for sure. Mine is so shallow with the atlas 1/4" above the skid I had to notch the pass seat like 4.5" to fit over the atlas. my specs are super similar, 113" WB-19.5" belly, 67" roof. Feels super super stable playing around in the yard.

Damn, thats real shallow. I couldnt have my roof that low and have ample room for my noggin. In retrospect, i should have went passenger drop and i could have lowered the drivers seat a little more, but having uneven seat heights would drive my OCD insane.

 

[YJ4Rox]

Damn, thats real shallow. I couldnt have my roof that low and have ample room for my noggin. In retrospect, i should have went passenger drop and i could have lowered the drivers seat a little more, but having uneven seat heights would drive my OCD insane.

The uneven seats are buggin me already I had all the parts for a driver drop build and after seeing the Dims went pass drop.
Cant wait to see wheeling pics of this build. The powder on your wheels is killer!
Finally got panels and wrap on, but pass seat isnt in this pic.

 

[the_white_shadow]

The uneven seats are buggin me already I had all the parts for a driver drop build and after seeing the Dims went pass drop.
Cant wait to see wheeling pics of this build. The powder on your wheels is killer!
Finally got panels and wrap on, but pass seat isnt in this pic.

I saw that bad boy on IG yesterday. Very nice.

 

[Boomtacoma01]

As did I. Those Hulse Chassis are pimp...

 

[the_white_shadow]

started on the door bars yesterday and got the vent window tubes in. Now i have to crawl my fat ass over the bars to work on the interior. i went with this style to keep the entry/exit easier, especially on my Dad who has a bum knee. Ill try to finish them up tonight.

 

[the_white_shadow]

Mas updates from over the weekend. The last tubes were welded in to the chassis. These include; the door bars for both sides, some side support for the rear upper part of the chassis in front of the upper shock mounts, a couple tubes to support the cooler, gussets at the windshield and at the B-pillars, and added some lower link mount support tubes to the belly. Now to finish everything else in the next couple weeks before it gets blown apart for weld out, sandblast, and paint.

Also started on the belly skid out of AR400 plate. It will be bolted on to the sides of the chassis. Front portion under the engine will be removable and bolt to the belly skid with those 3 holes.

Also picked up this DOT approved helmet for those hard lines.

 

[DesertCJ]

Can holders should probably be upgraded to marine swivel mounts so they don’t spill…lol

 

[the_white_shadow]

Cut out some panels on the table last night. Figured i would have at least one good set before they are destroyed.

Might have went a little crazy with the fasteners, but at least it doesnt rattle when i hit it.

Roof panel. Im taking it to a buddy's shop today to use his big press to make the curve.

Had to throw the fender on to see what it looked like.

Hope to get it torn down here pretty soon for final weld out and paint.

 

[Sean]

I'm really digging the Toyota fender....but, I'm a Toyota guy, so I guess I'm partial, lol.

 

[the_white_shadow]

I took my roof panel to a friends shop with a large press and we shaped the front bend. Came out pretty good. I still need to add some bolts to the middle section and sides to keep the vibration down.

Also going to make some of the milwaukee packout plates. One for a light weight basket to use when my passenger seat is out. One out of 1/8" for the rear cooler mount, and another light basket to go above the cooler for a tool bag.

 

[mobil1syn]

putting that sticky foam weather stripping between the panel and roof will minimize rattling.

 

[chaplinfj60]

i used these guys to help with the rattling. and so i would not have to weld tabs to my cage. mainly because i have seats and everything in there all ready.

 

[the_white_shadow]

I plan on using some stick on boat decking on the bottom side of the roof and doors. Not sure of the pattern yet though.

Maybe some wood grain to really bring it back full circle to my first build. I used wood beadboard for a set of door panels in my first crawler. They were pimp.

 

[Sean]

putting that sticky foam weather stripping between the panel and roof will minimize rattling.

Yeah...I did this even with 1/8" lexan panels and they dont' rattle at all.

 

[the_white_shadow]

Some updates.
Seat tabs are in.

Cup holders are in (priority). Other side is just the tip.

Interior structure pulled for weld out and trans/t-case removal. I was able to sneak it out of the side in one piece. 0% chance it bolts back up as easily as it came out after welding.

So much room for activities.

Engine made it out the top. Had my doubts.

Racecar shit.

And a blank chassis ready for final weldout. I spent about 20 hours this weekend welding away. Not fun and still not done.

Nap time. Wont be the last time on its side.

And thats where it sits. Mucho welding left to do, but should be able to get it done before the sand blaster comes on Thursday to get rid of all the surface rust on the chassis and axle housings. A good friend is welding up the axles for me while i focus my booger welding on the chassis. less than 3 weeks for a scheduled trip to Sand Hollow. 5% chance i make it, but we are trying. Transmission getting rebuilt is going to be the deciding factor. Im having a hard time finding someone competent to take my money and have it done in my abbreviated timeframe.

 

[chaplinfj60]

Cup holders are in (priority). Other side is just the tip.

Interior structure pulled for weld out and trans/t-case removal. I was able to sneak it out of the side in one piece. 0% chance it bolts back up as easily as it came out after welding.

i think i want to copy the cup holders. sure the build is ok... but the cup holders.....

 

[the_white_shadow]

Driveshafts came in last week from Tom Woods. 2-1/8" OD x 0.188 wall shafts front and rear. They are damn near the same length at 28-28.5" long. The slip yokes will need some mill/flap work to not bind up. These slip yokes are definitely not high clearance units. Ill fix that. They are 100% above the lower links at all times, so thats good.

So go fast parts and some whoa parts came in as well.

Truck Norris Jr. cam and DOD/afm kit from BTR.

The whoa are 14" ultralight brakes from Branik for the front.

 

[chaplinfj60]

is the rear off set? i may not have noticed

 

[the_white_shadow]

is the rear off set? i may not have noticed

Yep. Both to the drivers side. Both use the same length shafts.

 

[chaplinfj60]

cool beans,. and sorry if you discussed this. why not center rear diff. easy to have only carry two shafts for spares vice 4?

 

[Boomtacoma01]

yep. same axle shafts front and rear.

 

[chaplinfj60]

yep. same axle shafts front and rear.

now that is whats up.

 

[the_white_shadow]

now that is whats up.

Same shafts And my theory is that I hopefully don’t drag it on shit like a centered diff as much.

 

[chaplinfj60]

thats what i was thinking too very cool

and i was looking at rear links and you had to creative to in the separation to avoid hitting drive shaft. open up the angle a bit.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I've had a few samurais and the offset diff is a big difference in the rocks.

The closer your diff to the tire, the less it hits.