Dirt Squirrel 3.0 - The 2nd Mortgage

[the_white_shadow]

Did a little CAD work last night and this morning for the axles.

I ordered some 3/16" AR400 plate and will use it for the skids and axles.

 

[Boomtacoma01]

Where did you end up finding the Ar400?

 

[the_white_shadow]

Where did you end up finding the Ar400?

american alloy in houston.

 

[Boomtacoma01]

cool. decent price? I'm going to get some to replace the UMHW skid on the red truck.

 

[the_white_shadow]

I got a 4x4 sheet for $300. I should be able to do my belly/engine skids, and both axles.

 

[chaplinfj60]

can you weld to the ar Plate, or weld two plates together. if so what wire/rod you using?

 

[the_white_shadow]

can you weld to the ar Plate, or weld two plates together. if so what wire/rod you using?

AR plate welds just like normal carbon steel. You just cant drill it worth a shit or really bend it at all.

 

[chaplinfj60]

ok cool. i know when i welded on high carbon shit like blades and stuff we jumped up to 11018 vice the 7018.

 

[Sean]

AR plate welds just like normal carbon steel. You just cant drill it worth a shit or really bend it at all.

I'd always thought welding it meant it would be brittle and break in the weld. So, with what you're saying it sounds like for angled boatsides one could just weld AR plate into the subframe as slider/skin, right?

 

[the_white_shadow]

I'd always thought welding it meant it would be brittle and break in the weld. So, with what you're saying it sounds like for angled boatsides one could just weld AR plate into the subframe as slider/skin, right?

Thats going to be my plan for the axles. Ill bolt the skid plates on for the belly but weld on the engine crossmember. I didnt have any issues welding it on my last rig with normal mig wire.

 

[Sean]

Thats going to be my plan for the axles. Ill bolt the skid plates on for the belly but weld on the engine crossmember. I didnt have any issues welding it on my last rig with normal mig wire.

Great to know! Thanks!

 

[the_white_shadow]

Christmas came early. These bad boys are a work of art.

 

[chaplinfj60]

is that a micro beer can? omg lol

 

[the_white_shadow]

is that a micro beer can? omg lol

Negative. That is an 8-year old 12-oz miller lite can

 

[DesertCJ]

I may have missed it…what travel are your shocks? I see some cool stuff going on that I like, some stuff that I would have done differently but then I realized that it’s still a Toyota and you’re killing it

 

[the_white_shadow]

I may have missed it…what travel are your shocks? I see some cool stuff going on that I like, some stuff that I would have done differently but then I realized that it’s still a Toyota and you’re killing it

Yep, just a garden variety toyota build. The air shocks are 16" front and rear.

 

[DesertCJ]

Right on, it’s coming along man. Gonna be a sweet rig when it’s done. I’m assuming you’re planning on some type of high end 1550 joints?

 

[the_white_shadow]

Right on, it’s coming along man. Gonna be a sweet rig when it’s done. I’m assuming you’re planning on some type of high end 1550 joints?

Ill be using branik 1550 joints and inner shafts. Just havent ordered them yet.

 

[DesertCJ]

Ill be using branik 1550 joints and inner shafts. Just havent ordered them yet.

Nice….Bling $$$.

 

[the_white_shadow]

Started on the interior panels over the weekend. I hate sheetmetal and aluminum work, so this is going to be as simple as possible. Floor in front of the seats will be expanded flat metal so i can see through it. Under the seats and rearward will be aluminum . I will try to enclose it as much as possible. there will also be a panel behind the one with the gauge cluster that will mount most of the electronics, i.e switch pros, power/ground distribution blocks, etc. The ECU will go under the passenger seat. The master disconnect will go on the side panel on the drivers side for easy access. All of the aluminum is 1/8" and the steel is 14ga. Its what i had laying around. Ill be using trick tabs and u-nuts with 1/2" button head bolts to hold it all in place.

 

[the_white_shadow]

Wheels came back from the powdercoat yesterday and all i can say is damn they look good. Shiny and full of sparkles. Cant wait to see them mounted on some mud tars.

 

[the_white_shadow]

Such a sexy wheel and tire combo. I love the simplicity of the Trailready HDs. Backspacing is 5.5".

Added two wraps of gorilla tape to help the inner bead. I had some issues on my last buggy with this same wheel/tire combo where i lost inner beads. Added these two wraps and it solved all those problems. Since i should be ~1k lbs lighter this time, im hoping it wont be an issue.

 

[DesertCJ]

These are 20’s?

 

[chaplinfj60]

if the car does not color coordinate with the steering wheel, i will be disappointed.

are the wheels a good color with the steering wheel

 

[the_white_shadow]

These are 20’s?

yeah 20x9.5

 

[the_white_shadow]

Floors are now 100% mocked up and bolted down. Knocked out both sides front to back and finished the doghouse on the passenger side. Lots of welding left to do on them, but im overall happy. Foot area is expanded metal so i can see through it at extreme angles.

On the drivers side i created a little heel pocket. Under the seats is aluminum.

Some sketchy shit getting the buggy off the table. Went pretty well.

And off the table for the first time ever. Started mocking up the engine on the table Mid-Dec, so about 7 months in at this point.

Some specs as it sits:
114" Wheelbase
14.5" to the belly at full bump
87-88" wide at the tires

 

[the_white_shadow]

Yesterday i did some flexing to confirm what i was afraid of, which is the shocks up front making contact with the frame at full articulation. Going to have to modify the upper mounts. Its needed anyways as the upper links touch the frame as well at full pump. So im moving the upper mounts down ~0.5" and out 0.75" to see if that helps. This will also get the upper eyes of the shocks away from the radiator some as its super tight in that area as well.

The shock is about 15.75" extended out of 16". If the axle moves any more to the drivers side, making the passenger shock more vertical, the body will definitely kiss the frame rail. I thought about sectioning the frame about 1/2" here but didnt want to weaken anything. Also though about welding in an "X" in this area and cutting out a pocket essentially for the shock to swing into, but ultimately decided on moving the upper mounts out and down some. Hopefully that is enough to do it.

 

[DesertCJ]

Yeah, that’s a little close for comfort. Personally, I’d be running limit straps before the shocks ever got within 15.75” extended anyways but whatever….

 

[chaplinfj60]

legit awesmoe ness right here....

 

[TTRAxle&FAB]

Looking good