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Dethmachinefab go fast buggy build.

bdkw1 said:
What terrain are you going to be using it in? Running a BP add's a lot of tuning options. But if your running around the woods, you might not need them. What brand are you going with?
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Mix of trails/logging road, street, and mx track. If i run a single possibly a fox resi with the dsc. If bypass it will be 2.5 foa's.
 
So I'm thinking of ditching the bike engine and going to a Honda h22 or something similar. Not sure about how offset the trans outputs are to the engine centerline if it will package nice. Also unsure if all the suspension parts I built so far are up to the added weight and hp. :rolleyes:
 
Dethmachinefab said:
So I'm thinking of ditching the bike engine and going to a Honda h22 or something similar. Not sure about how offset the trans outputs are to the engine centerline if it will package nice.
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Quite a lot. The cars have an intermediate shaft out the motor side to make the half shafts equal length. It's 12-18" long iirc. If you ditch the intermediate the motor side output is basically right under the input.

FWIW I put a H22 trans behind a CBR 929, coupled with a box built with the guts of a BW4405. 30 forward gears, crawl ratio is like 80, and more top end than the motor can pull.

Love the build by the way. Beautiful work can't wait to see it finished.

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If you are going the Honda route just use the trans all the super buggy’s use. They all use the small Honda motors. Your gonna be changing it up anyway after a few times of plicking the chain after a large jump. :flipoff2:
 
srf said:
Quite a lot. The cars have an intermediate shaft out the motor side to make the half shafts equal length. It's 12-18" long iirc. If you ditch the intermediate the motor side output is basically right under the input.

FWIW I put a H22 trans behind a CBR 929, coupled with a box built with the guts of a BW4405. 30 forward gears, crawl ratio is like 80, and more top end than the motor can pull.

Love the build by the way. Beautiful work can't wait to see it finished.

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Dang it would never fit. Packaging is already real tight. Next buggy will get a car driveline I guess. Cool drive idea, post up some more buggy pics!
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
If you are going the Honda route just use the trans all the super buggy’s use. They all use the small Honda motors. Your gonna be changing it up anyway after a few times of plicking the chain after a large jump. :flipoff2:
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I will do it on the next buggy, just one of those before I get too far ideas but I guess it passed that point. I know it will break a chain at some point. I do see some big hyabusa sand cars holding up with a quality chain, so i will carry a spare and include some engine case guarding.
 
This buggy got a little attention today. Nice weather and backordered materials left me some time to work on it. Knocked out most of the steering, geometry seems to work well. I don't like the steering rack. Not a backlash problem but its got a bunch of slop in the slide part. Second part that i dislike is its only about 1.75" travel from center to lock. This makes my kingpin to steering joint distance only 3.5" to get an acceptable amount of steering angle. I'm afraid it's going to be too little leverage and stress everything. I can modify it a bit and probably get 2" out of the rack. I will leave the steering arms unwelded until I'm sure of the set up, and then add the top part to put them in double shear.


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Buddy used same rack on similar rig, busa powerplant with the Proformance case. Steering seems to work well with that short of arms and the saturn vue powersteering unit.
 
Blacksheep10 said:
Buddy used same rack on similar rig, busa powerplant with the Proformance case. Steering seems to work well with that short of arms and the saturn vue powersteering unit.
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I wheeled it around and it's about a 15' turning radius now, so a u turn in a wide street is possible. Im trying to see what stock sxs spindles have for kingpin to tie rod distance because this should be pretty similar and they seem to hold up.
 
Rolled it outside and fit up some seats to see how it's going to lay out.

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With a spreader that wide that rack is going to hate life. You can add support rollers, but that only goes so far.

Steering radius is best adjusted with the skinny pedal, it's a spool, drive it like one.
 
This is badass Hugh. No plans to machine a block so that you can use both engines? A 2000cc V8 would be a thing.
 
Roc Doc said:
This is badass Hugh. No plans to machine a block so that you can use both engines? A 2000cc V8 would be a thing.
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Thanks. My names Sam though, you got me mixed up with the other rad motorbike builder.

I'll get this sorted and running the easy way, and if I'm hooked I'll sell it and do something crazy on the next one. :laughing:
 
Seat brackets welded in, except for the middle forward ones that use a different tab. Got started on the frame by building and welding in the outer floor tubes that connect to the y frame.

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What's your plan for a foot box? With the seats that flat your legs will end up straight out in front of you and it looks like the front suspension isn't all that far away from the front of the seat. Optical illusion?
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
What's your plan for a foot box? With the seats that flat your legs will end up straight out in front of you and it looks like the front suspension isn't all that far away from the front of the seat. Optical illusion?
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It's not a lot of room to work with. I'm comfortable with my feet at the front of the floor tube, legs bent a bit but supported by the seat still. Plan is to bend the front floor to clear the lower a arm and give as much room as possible. I'm actually much happier with how it is than i expected.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
It's not a lot of room to work with. I'm comfortable with my feet at the front of the floor tube, legs bent a bit but supported by the seat still. Plan is to bend the front floor to clear the lower a arm and give as much room as possible. I'm actually much happier with how it is than i expected.
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I was thinking the same as Slowpoke. How is that sitting compared to ride height? I guess more important, compared to full stuff?
 
rockota said:
I'm sure it's just the pic, but those seats look uncomfortably vertical....
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They are at 72°, I could pitch them back a bit more if needed but I thought they were pretty comfortable when I got lazy and sat in them for a bit.

Here is a front view about 1.5" from full stuff. I'll try and get a side view next time. The a arm doesn't get too far into the area, just need to be sure to clear the tires full lock full stuff.

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I just played with the angle a bit and a few degrees back is more comfortable so I will adjust raising the front by about an inch.

Here's a stuffed pic. I need a floor jack, picking this thing up and down is getting old.

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Dethmachinefab said:
If you don't mind checking, what's the lean back on the seats in your golf cart?
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Let me go check and report back in a few min.......

It's definitely laid back more than yours but not by alot. BUT the bottom of my seat is probably 10" off the floor in the foot well where as yours looks to be half that, maybe less?
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Let me go check and report back in a few min.......

It's definitely laid back more than yours but not by alot. BUT the bottom of my seat is probably 10" off the floor in the foot well where as yours looks to be half that, maybe less?
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Its 7" off the y frame to the top front of seat cushion, so I'll be at 8" once I tilt them back by raising the front.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Batteries are dead in my smart level but here is a couple pics...


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Thanks, yours are certainly more layed back in that position. I like the adjustable bracket you have, mine only has bottom bolts for regular seat rails.
 
So now I need to order shocks to figure out the remaining chassis fab. Looks like 12" travel coilover will work front and rear. Fox, King, or ? I'd like to order through the parts counter. Do they come made to order or with some standard valving package? I've considered air shocks but don't think they will work good on something like this, my last buggy would sit crooked when you got out just from shaft friction. I do like how they are light and easy to set up. Being 1/3rd the price is nice too.
 
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