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Dethmachinefab go fast buggy build.

Decided to change the design a bit. I was building a pocket for the shock eye but was not sure it was going to fit at droop. I don't have shocks yet and could not find a drawing with what I needed. Now the arms will be flipped ( flat on top) with the shock mount welded on the top. Its easier and I'm not building a set of arms that may not work.
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awesome, thanks for making the pictures bigger as well! the last couple posts are mo betta than the first couple.
 
You going to brace the inner box to give the bottom of the shock mount more stability or will it be good as is?
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Decided to change the design a bit. I was building a pocket for the shock eye but was not sure it was going to fit at droop. I don't have shocks yet and could not find a drawing with what I needed. Now the arms will be flipped ( flat on top) with the shock mount welded on the top. Its easier and I'm not building a set of arms that may not work.
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What are you using to draw your sheet metal parts? Fusion?

What press brake do you have?
 
Talon2006 said:
What are you using to draw your sheet metal parts? Fusion?

What press brake do you have?
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I'm drawing parts to cut in torchmate cad. No unfolding parts programs, I wish I had cad skill like some people around here. I make a lot of scrap getting to an end result I like.


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Goteneds 8'x45/65 ton and a Chicago 4'x 35ton.
 
chris said:
You going to brace the inner box to give the bottom of the shock mount more stability or will it be good as is?
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Mount will span the two ribs, and one half of the mount will sit atop the arms edge. I drove a forklift over my half built scrap one with the shock pocket, seems good. Its 12g cold roll sheet. Not sure how thick steel the trophy truck guys use for them, but I also assume they are 4130 and heat treated.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
I'm drawing parts to cut in torchmate cad. No unfolding parts programs, I wish I had cad skill like some people around here. I make a lot of scrap getting to an end result I like.




Goteneds 8'x45/65 ton and a Chicago 4'x 35ton.
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Super nice.

You might want to check out Fusion 360, its pretty good with sheet metal and its free.... for home use at least..
 
Welded out the other side tonight. Next part is the heim bungs and uniball cups.
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Dethmachinefab said:
I'm drawing parts to cut in torchmate cad. No unfolding parts programs, I wish I had cad skill like some people around here. I make a lot of scrap getting to an end result I like.




Goteneds 8'x45/65 ton and a Chicago 4'x 35ton.
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How thick of a piece can you bend with that 8’er? I need a brake press but all my math says I need at least 100-120 tons ;( I would like to bend 4’ of ar plate.

Keep up the good work!
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
How thick of a piece can you bend with that 8’er? I need a brake press but all my math says I need at least 100-120 tons ;( I would like to bend 4’ of ar plate.

Keep up the good work!
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Depends on width of bottom die. I can do 8' of 3/16" with what I've got. I'm looking for a decent deal on a 10' 100+ ton that doesn't need to be rigged out of some difficult place.
 
Welded in the uniball cups and heim bosses. Mocked it up and it's starting to look like something. Next is front upper arms. I think they will be made from tube, but I'm not certain yet.

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OK, late to the party but I missed this in the move.

Your going to have issues with those lower tubes cracking. Small attachment to the main chassis rail and lots of leverage from the suspension. Common issue. The best solution is pushing the mounts up against the main chassis tube and run the mounting bolts through it with some welded in tubing sleeves. This will help transfer the load into the bottom rail better and help spread the load out.
 
bdkw1 said:
OK, late to the party but I missed this in the move.

Your going to have issues with those lower tubes cracking. Small attachment to the main chassis rail and lots of leverage from the suspension. Common issue. The best solution is pushing the mounts up against the main chassis tube and run the mounting bolts through it with some welded in tubing sleeves. This will help transfer the load into the bottom rail better and help spread the load out.
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Do you mean where the round tube goes through the box tube up front? If so that whole area will be boxed and tied into to the rear lower arm mount. A few other tubes need to leave from that location as well that will come from that boxed bulkhead type thing. Two out to the sides for the floor, and two angling up and out.
 
Yeah, this one was boxed in and the bulkhead was parked on top of it.

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Food for thought, it's a real common issue. Thats like the third time that buggy has been fixed there, they just keep adding plate.....
 
bdkw1 said:
Yeah, this one was boxed in and the bulkhead was parked on top of it.

Food for thought, it's a real common issue. Thats like the third time that buggy has been fixed there, they just keep adding plate.....
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So it looks like where the front floor tubes meet the ones that mount the lower arms is where the cracks developed. Maybe attaching floor tubes there is not the best idea, could be a lot of torsion force on those tubes. I'll have to see what I can do.

I appreciate your input, its a great thing about this place. We have thousands of years of experience to tap on most any subject. You do desert racing buggy/tt stuff?

This is sort of what I was looking to do to make the connections. (Not mine, someone did a nice job on this one.)

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Yes on the off-road fab. I have built everything from 7S to TT's. You learn a lot more from repairing shit though. Lots of sand cars were built like that and a lot have been repaired. Keeping your shock towers tied into the mid rail at the A pillar really helps cut down on the twisting.

The first couple of Geisers didn't bolt through the bottom rail and had issues. The rest bolt through and do not have issues.
 
bdkw1 said:
Yes on the off-road fab. I have built everything from 7S to TT's. You learn a lot more from repairing shit though. Lots of sand cars were built like that and a lot have been repaired. Keeping your shock towers tied into the mid rail at the A pillar really helps cut down on the twisting.

The first couple of Geisers didn't bolt through the bottom rail and had issues. The rest bolt through and do not have issues.
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So looking at it I have no way to sleeve and run bolts back through the box frame. With the rake they drop to the edge of tube at that point.

Here is what the plan was. These two tabs transfer any up/down loads from the outside of the floor to the box frame, and the tube is plated between box tube and round tube, until it reaches the center pair of tubes where it will bend up to meet the top height of the a arm mount, follow it and return back down the other side. It should be able to transfer much more force back to the box tube. ( like this ____/---\____ )

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Welded up one of the uppers between jobs today. I should have pushed the inner v a bit further into the arm towards the tire, looks kind of bulky but it will work for now.

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I know I'm speaking out of ignorance, but how common is it for the upper to be so far offset of the lower? With proper angles, how much compromise is there in handling?
 
Deuce 40s said:
I know I'm speaking out of ignorance, but how common is it for the upper to be so far offset of the lower? With proper angles, how much compromise is there in handling?
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Common where you want to fit big shocks or gain room, both of which I need. Same geometry as if they were stacked on top of each other. Pivot points are just offset.
 
Started by class 8 guys that needed the arms to clear the frame and the shocks. Carried on to TT's for some strange reason.
 
bdkw1 said:
Started by class 8 guys that needed the arms to clear the frame and the shocks. Carried on to TT's for some strange reason.
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What do you think would be a good shock package? Im sort of designing around a 2.5 coilover and a 2.5 3 tube bypass. Never had a well suspended go fast buggy, only crawler stuff so this is new. Will I need the extra weight/complexity of the bypass or should I focus on a dialed in single coilover?
 
What terrain are you going to be using it in? Running a BP add's a lot of tuning options. But if your running around the woods, you might not need them. What brand are you going with?
 
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