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Current state of winches?

If you want to go to the beginning, it is Amsteel Blue. And yes Master Pull. Known, and sold for years as Tug Boat Rope. If you want to make your own that is the go to. Good Shopping will get you pretty darn far for guaranteed premium. A good winter project with a fid. Also learn to tie a boline knot/loop for the extensions. Easy to undo with minimal loss in strength..

Yeah, wasn't Amsteel Blue one of the first Dyneema ropes to hit the market? It took a handful of years to make it over to the 4x4 world though.

And that's a damn good idea, I might have to shop around for a spool of something decent and DIY some winch lines.
 
The rope has been there for years. What came with the winch rope induustry was good reports, acceptance, and rope sleeves. 20 years ago, I couldn't find good sleeve material. Now it is available in bulk to place when scuffing on rocks, trees, etc. Some are even velcro attached so they don't have to wind on the spool. Probably biggest game changer in the rec industry...ever.. But some of the alum and wifi control advances (Warn) are right up there on the mechanical side.
 
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Front pic?

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Man that's a nice setup. I don't think my XJ would appreciate that - V8 swap and stuff.

E fan or mechanical?

That 4runner has a mechanical fan, and i could probably have gone back another inch or more if i had gone e fan, and put a guard on the back of the winch to keep the cable out of the rad. I've got an e fan on my current build, with a flatbelly tilting the engine forward I have less room to work with, but look at how far back you can push the rad first...then just try to cram that winch in as deep as you can!
 
E fan or mechanical?

That 4runner has a mechanical fan, and i could probably have gone back another inch or more if i had gone e fan, and put a guard on the back of the winch to keep the cable out of the rad. I've got an e fan on my current build, with a flatbelly tilting the engine forward I have less room to work with, but look at how far back you can push the rad first...then just try to cram that winch in as deep as you can!

E-fan, a brushless GM fan and it moves a lot of air. I could get it back up in there maybe 2" max, it's just full of a/c condenser and trans cooler, too. Might need to measure some more.
 
I run a mile marker 10.5k hydraulic winch on my tdi swapped ranger with synthetic line. I added a cooler and filter on the ps return line as I had the parts laying around. I also scored a mile marker wireless remote kit that I wired in which works fantastic.

It may not be the fastest in low gear, but whenever someone needs a longggg hard pull, I'm always the one who gets nominated. After dead pulling an f350 ~250' backwards up a VERY steep snow/ice hill, the winch was barely warm. No it wasn't fast, but no batteries/alternators/cables were killed that night. I would absolutely welcome the challenge to any electric winch that night to have pulled 250' at full load with no stopping except to take out daisy chained recovery straps and reconnect.

As for the whole argument of not being able to winch yourself if your engine isn't running; you're wheeling wayyyyy too hard alone if you've gotten yourself in a situation where your engine can't/isn't running and you need a pull. Winching yourself is going to be the least of your issues that day.

If you do the electrical math of draw vs reserve capacity, you're lucky to get 30-45 seconds of pulling at full load anyway (obviously depends on exact winch and battery setup). So now you've somehow managed to pull yourself out of this favorite theoretically possible predicament of the electric vs hydro argument but your shit is too dead to crank, no one is around to jump/bump start you, or your rig is too broken to drive its own way out of the trail. So back to my point that you were doing something you shouldn't have without any friends around and your day is still likely fooked.




At the end of the day, everything has its place and you need to weigh line speed vs duty cycle vs ease of install vs cost. For me, I wanted durability and duty cycle above all else so I went hydraulic. It also greatly helped to find the winch for $200 LOL.

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I run a mile marker 10.5k hydraulic winch on my tdi swapped ranger with synthetic line. I added a cooler and filter on the ps return line as I had the parts laying around. I also scored a mile marker wireless remote kit that I wired in which works fantastic.

It may not be the fastest in low gear, but whenever someone needs a longggg hard pull, I'm always the one who gets nominated. After dead pulling an f350 ~250' backwards up a VERY steep snow/ice hill, the winch was barely warm. No it wasn't fast, but no batteries/alternators/cables were killed that night. I would absolutely welcome the challenge to any electric winch that night to have pulled 250' at full load with no stopping except to take out daisy chained recovery straps and reconnect.

As for the whole argument of not being able to winch yourself if your engine isn't running; you're wheeling wayyyyy too hard alone if you've gotten yourself in a situation where your engine can't/isn't running and you need a pull. Winching yourself is going to be the least of your issues that day.

If you do the electrical math of draw vs reserve capacity, you're lucky to get 30-45 seconds of pulling at full load anyway (obviously depends on exact winch and battery setup). So now you've somehow managed to pull yourself out of this favorite theoretically possible predicament of the electric vs hydro argument but your shit is too dead to crank, no one is around to jump/bump start you, or your rig is too broken to drive its own way out of the trail. So back to my point that you were doing something you shouldn't have without any friends around and your day is still likely fooked.




At the end of the day, everything has its place and you need to weigh line speed vs duty cycle vs ease of install vs cost. For me, I wanted durability and impossible to hurt above all else so I went hydraulic. It also greatly helped to find the winch for $200 LOL.

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I pulled cable for about 12 hours one time when my front diff let go in my 4runner. Very few breaks and I was piling snow on the motor to keep it cool. The winch lost most of its power after that trip, but never stopped working. Had to wait for the stock alt to charge my battery once. 8274 of course, not sure many other electric winches would have made it.

I get your points, but it's not as night and day as you're making it out to be. Unless you run a shit tastic battery, you can get way more than 30 seconds of wincing before it dies, done it more than once. It's not often youre pulling full load anyway. It's not a crazy hypothetical, it's an actual situation I've been in more than once :laughing:

Like I said, some times you just need a few minutes of pulling to get your rig back on its wheels, or off a knarly side hill so the tank pickup will suck fuel again :laughing: I don't always wheel with a huge group, I usually prefer just 1 to 3 other rigs.

It's OK, keep justifying your heavy complex winch :flipoff2:
 
I run a mile marker 10.5k hydraulic winch on my tdi swapped ranger with synthetic line. I added a cooler and filter on the ps return line as I had the parts laying around. I also scored a mile marker wireless remote kit that I wired in which works fantastic.

How bad does that bumper murder approach angle?
 
With or without the extra lines full of fluid? :flipoff2:​​​​​​

I actually think they're cool, just not for a crawler. Probably great for a more mild rig. I'd love to have one on my tow 4ig for wincing logs up a bank. :grinpimp:

way less than your spare battery, and you should be running a PS cooler anyways :flipoff2:
 
way less than your spare battery, and you should be running a PS cooler anyways :flipoff2:

I've actually never ran 2 batteries in anything but the sxs.

The 4runner that winched for 12 hours just had the biggest die hard platinum (odyssey) sears had and a stock alt.
 
I'd rock a hydro if one came up for a decent price.

PTO winches come up pretty regularly. From there it's just a lovejoy or chain coupler, random old valve (or pair of solenoids) and a Surplus center motor.
 
Anyone with an 8274 knows it's an 8274 and lists accordingly. Need to look for ads that just saw old warn.

I have 3 M8000, RC9, HS9500, 8274, and M12000. Plus a shitty HF 9000. The most I ever paid for one was $225, and that was for the HF new 10 years ago and it's on a trailer. Some just needed a new solenoid, others full rebuild. All depends what you're willing to do.

You want to sell your HS9500?
 
It's OK, keep justifying your heavy complex winch :flipoff2:
Its lighter and less complex than an electric with dual batteries.

How bad does that bumper murder approach angle?
The bottom of my ac condenser is actually the lowest hanging fruit on the front, so it doesn't impede anything worse than that damn thing. I've yet to have it be a problem in my normal northern michigan wheeling. Of course I haven't taken it to Moab or the rubicon though, so my opinion is 168.7% worthless according to internet experts.
 
I've never ran dual batteries.

Dual batteries also have other benefits....

Hydro winches have their place, but for a rock crawler/trail rig, I'll take electric.
 
Newb question, for buying a used winch. How can I test it?

It is fully out, just laying in the garage, not attached to a bumper or anything. It does have the controller.

Can I just put a jumper cable to it see if it goes in/out? Anything else I can or should do? Listen for bad noise.
 
Newb question, for buying a used winch. How can I test it?

It is fully out, just laying in the garage, not attached to a bumper or anything. It does have the controller.

Can I just put a jumper cable to it see if it goes in/out? Anything else I can or should do? Listen for bad noise.

Just to see if it is operational, hook a battery or jumper cables to the lead and try to spool it in and out.

No real way to test how good it is under a full load unless you put a full load to it.

What winch is it?
 
Just to see if it is operational, hook a battery or jumper cables to the lead and try to spool it in and out.

No real way to test how good it is under a full load unless you put a full load to it.

What winch is it?
A Warn says M12000, but a lot of stickers worn off. Price seem reasonable
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Well, guess that’s what I’m asking, how do I test that motor isn’t burned up? Will the quick spool in/out test that? Or does it need a load to test that.
 
A quick spool in and out will test the motor to a point. Only a full pull will really test the motor.

That said, the Warn 10 and 12K winches are good units. If it powers up, it'll probably be good.

Keep in mind that a solenoid or two might be bad, so testing through the solenoid box might not work. You can use jumper cables and go right to the motor.

If it does have bad solenoids, don't bother trying to get replacements, go to an Albright contactor and call it a day.
 
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